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keyless system install
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minsk
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the a-1 system is awesome. i installed mine yesterday.
i havent done the middle door yet. just the front doors. the keyless distance is pretty good also.
i took all the xtraneous wires off the brain this helped make wiring so much easier.i didnt do headlights or horn either.if i incorporate the alarm at a later date i will. i just wanted the hands free keyless entry.
side door will be next weekend.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

post some detailed pics on doing the slider!
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tarandusVDub
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^X2!
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minsk
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as soon as someone donates the side door contacts ..ill install it
Smile. the one that a1 sends are too thick
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1988 Vanagon GL
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my super slow 1987 sunroof syncro rebuild
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stl_stadtroller
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Setup looks pretty killer but of course the first thing I thought of was that it would be better if you could incorporate an alarm and remote start with it into one fob...

I removed all my lock solenoids after getting frustrated with trying to cure the phantom lock syndrome. I didn't think I would miss it, but now I sorta do.
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
post some detailed pics on doing the slider!


I only took few pictures but the hardest could be the wiring. There are two ways to run the wires.

Option 1. Run it up the pillar and under the headliner then down the pillar just like the factory. ( how I did it ) took almost two hours and pain in the butt.

Option 2. Run the wire behind the golve compartment , underneath the carpet, down the center isle then behind the back seat floor and drill a hole on the pillar. ( the easy way and it would take less then 10 minutes ) disadvantage you could see the wire going through the pillar, but if you have a fire extinguisher or engel fride there it would hide the wire.

I sat there and gave it a lot of thought before going through the factory route. But I see no problem going underneath the carpet route either.

The contacts were kind of hard because there were no factory holes so I had to just install one on the slider door then and install the other by eyeing it. I used the factory used one.

Lastly the door lock mechanism need to be modified by welding a small piece of metal and drilling a hole. This method was by far the easiest way then finding a factory power lock mechanism. I went to hardware store bought a metal for $5 and went to a muffler shop and paid $5 for them to just weld the piece. The rest of the metal I used to install the actuator. I also found that using the rivet was best for the mounting the brackets like the factory.

factory lock mehcansim
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


welded mechanism, just drill a hole for the linkage
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The metal piece that was bought for $5 and used it as bracket to mount the actuator. Secured by rivets. ( u could your bolts and nuts ) The key is mount it as parallel as possible so you have least amount of problem in the future. Make sure to lube the locking mechanism moving parts when you have it out because its been 25 years since being lubed by the factory.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Sorry if I confused anyone, writing is not my strong points. If anyone needs further help feel free to PM me, I'll give you my number. Smile
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minsk
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

how did you get tit through the pillars.
also why did you weld the metal again?
the other piece looks the same length to me
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my super slow 1987 sunroof syncro rebuild
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a description of my struggles getting over the passenger side and down the B-pillar here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=317539&start=20

If you want to spend the money, there is a slider door power lock assembly here. It different than the manual lock assembly, but only by the extra metal extension that connects to the actuator rod.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1315997

You may find this thread helpful too,
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516065

Great mod and worth the hassle, especially if you have family getting in/out of the van all day long on trips.

minsk wrote:
how did you get tit through the pillars.
also why did you weld the metal again?
the other piece looks the same length to me
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

minsk wrote:
how did you get tit through the pillars.
also why did you weld the metal again?
the other piece looks the same length to me


1. Not to be a smart ass. Good luck getting it through. It takes a lot patience. I had a pro car installer do it for this part. It still took him close to 2 hours. We thought about the easy way but he insisted he kept trying the factory way.

2. Once you pull out your locking mechanism it will make all the sense. If you rig it with a non power lock mechanism and without welding it, it will be a lot of work and a lot bending of the linkage.
( possible problems in the future ) the extended piece will make your linkage straight as possible to the actuator just like the factory.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my B pillar has an oval hole placed low on it - behind the fire extinguisher

I used it for the rear speaker cable run, but if others have this hidden behind the vinyl it may make things easier on you
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
my B pillar has an oval hole placed low on it - behind the fire extinguisher

I used it for the rear speaker cable run, but if others have this hidden behind the vinyl it may make things easier on you


The hard part wasn't coming out of the bottom of the B-pillar, but making the turn at the top where the wire makes a 90 deg turn from over the passenger door and then down vertically. It's honeycombed up there with lots of dead end spaces. Drilling the small hole at the top was the only way I could get it done. I didn't want to run the wire through the aisle and in from the bottom. Of course, if you already have an access hole at the bottom, then that route may be more tempting. I never bothered to check.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, I understand - I also drilled a hole there

and BTW - that is some thick sheet metal
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costal_cat
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:45 am    Post subject: Re: keyless system install Reply with quote

vwlovr wrote:
okay, here's a "little" write up on my install of the MES central locking kit with new actuators, and the Valet 712T keyless remote module into my 87 syncro which was already equipped an OEM central locking system.

as all electrical projects, disconnect the ground from the battery first. i soldered most of my connections, but the kit comes with plugs and crimp connectors you can use as well. if you mess up your car on my directions, i'm sorry, but it's not my fault, use at your own risk. i'm no expert, but i have installed about 12 car stereos, wired an entire house, and fixed many oddball wiring issues on moto and autos. so i'm not afraid of electricity.

i bought this kit because i wanted remote door locks, and my passenger side actuator was shot. since it was cheaper than a new VW actuator, it was a no-brainer. in addition my rear hatch lock wasn't functioning properly and i was hoping a new actuator would do the trick. here's the kit i got, the pic shows two actuators, but it's really 4. the remotes were different looking as well, but i kind of like them more.

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?S...=W02F-712T

so the day i started the install i also ran some speaker wires to the door, doing that was a pain in the ass, so the first thing i thought was how do i tap into OEM wiring.

to begin, let me show you what my OEM wiring looks like...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


(1) is a connector located next to the grounding lugs coming out of the top of the vent duct that goes to the door.

(2) is a connector located behind the glove box also coming out of the vent duct. you'll notice this splits off to another line of yellow/white/brown that goes up the front pillar to supply the side and rear doors. notice here how VW switches from a white to yellow, and yellow to white for the rear doors. this is because the rear actuator operate in opposite directions of fronts, so the up/down command is opposite.

here's some photos showing those connectors...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


now, lets look at how i wired up the MES central door lock and it's actuators...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


(1) since i hijacked the ground wire from the OEM harness, i needed to cut off the ground connection. you can see that after the plug the ground wire splits off and then connects to the ground lugs. you need to remove the connection to the ground lug and cut and tape it off (don't cut the brown wire that continues over to the passenger side)

(2) i had to do the same with the power supply. it is also forked off from the connector to an aux fuse on the top of my fuse box. i cut and taped the wire from the connector, but left enough wire connected to the fuse so that i could use the fuse for the MES system. which is shown connected to the MES red/black wire.

(3) you can connect the MES wires into the door harness at any place, in between the side connectors, or at one of the connectors. the right side is easier since there is tons of room behind the glove box. the MES plug has all 4 wires split into two for drivers and passenger sides, you only really need one of those halves at this point, but don't cut the other half really short since you can use that to connect to the keyless controller, which i'm going to show you.

(4) the MES plug has an extra plug to plug into the rear doors harness, like the OEM set up you should switch the wires here. that way the red and blue wires from the actuators always connect to the same wires, yellow and white respectively. so it looks like a mistake here, but it's not, it should be the opposite.

(5) the OEM harness has only 4 wires, but the MES kit has 5. i had an extra OEM speaker wire i wasn't using and hijacked to get me through the door. however, running one wire isn't too hard, but it's up to you to find the best solution.

(6) the ground line to the rear actuators is no longer needed, just tape them off and don't worry about it.

here's my door wired up. if you chose solder or plug be cautious on how much you cut from OEM, they just barely reach. it looks like good slack in this pic, but that is after i cut all the zip ties and pulled the harness to give me another inch.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


installing the actuators was relatively easy. the rear and side bolt on with no modifications, my rear one required that i move the actuator over like 1/4 inch, however i feel this is unique to my van since it looks like the actuator installation was not OEM. it's possible the hatch was replaced at some time, i'm not sure, the OEM actuator was "working" before, but it was not aligning correctly, so it didn't actually lock and unlock.

the front actuators were a bit of a pain. the new ones bolt right in to the old position, however they will not work that way since the have a longer stroke than the OEM actuators. so you can't install them with the OEM mounting holes. here's pic of how mine was installed...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


you can see in the pic that i've relocated the mounting holes for the actuator down and towards the front. this doesn't have to be exact, but this is my right door if you want to use this for reference. i traced the dots on some clear plastic flipped it around to do the drivers side. the first trick you have to do is get the new rod in place of the old one. you have to cut down the rods they give you, then what i did is grind off the mushroom cap on their rod, and reuse the OEM clamp to hold the replacement rod in place, since it no longer had the mushroom cap to do so. then follow the instructions given to adjust both actuators. basically you have to align them so they both travel over the mid point of their stroke at the same time. to determine the stroke of the lock knob, simply push in the lock cam thing on the door mechanism so it thinks it's closed, then you can lock/unlock the door while it's open.

after it's all wired up, all bolted up, reattach your battery and see if your door locks work before moving on to the keyless set up.

at this point you're almost home the rest is a walk in the park. the kit comes with instructions on interfacing the two components, but here's a diagram of how mine is wired...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


(1) the blue/black wire they say can connect to the brown or purple of the MES kit, this is because some cars lock one way othes the other way. for the vanagon, the blue/black should go to the brown and the green/black should go to the purple.

(2) this was odd, but yes all three of these wires get grounded

(3) this wire is possibly optional, being connected kills the LED, makes the ignition controlled lock/unlock work, allows programming mode, resets module every time key turned on. i haven't connected it, i might still. as long as the van doesn't lock on it's own when i start it, because that would drive me crazy, besides i didn't bother with the LED either.

(4) this wire is optional as well, but this way the lights will flash when you lock/unlock to get to this you need to pull the speedo cover off, and access the headlight switch. just tap into the grey/red wire. the 712 T should be set to positive (which is how mine was shipped) for this to work.

so that's it, after all that it should work. i'm still going to try and attach my horn, but that may be later. if anyone has any insight into doing that please post it. it looks like install guide shows you need a relay for that (no prob, i have many), but what's odd is that it show you connect two constant 12v supplies which i assume can be the same supply??? i dunno, i'll post details when i figure it out.

obviously there are many other optional things you can do like installing alarms and such. if anyone gets (or has) this kit and adds an alarm feel free to add some instructions on this thread. i don't really need an alarm, so i didn't bother.

i hope this helps someone. personally i think it's the best $100 spent outside a strip club. the keyless action kicks ass, and the actuators are soooooooooo much faster than OEM, it totally adds to a new car feeling.


HEY! I know this is a old thread but I wanted to say THANKS! My passenger side actuator was shot and I was gaging on the cost of an OEM or used one. I found this link order the set and with the help of my local shop got this done in short order. I did not try to tackle the sliding door so that will be manual but having the rest keyless is amazing at less than one new actuator. So Thanks again awesome post and info!
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epaddler
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking about adding the wireless kit from the link below. A couple of questions for those that have done this already. Does this kit rely on any of the existing electric lock wiring within the doors or is it independent? The electric door locks in my 89 Vanagon have never worked. As a result, the rear door has to always be opened with a key, and the slider about 80% of the time. Very frustrating. If the kit ties into the wiring within the door, does this mean I have to find the problem with the existing lock system before proceeding with any replacement kit?
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minsk
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i replaced everything mine with theirs...
did this like two years ago..still works great..
i i only did drivers and passenger doors

im going to do this on my sunroof syncro also..but ill prolly do the side door on that one.

its a good kit tho..
pretty nice quality
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1987 Sunroof Syncro
1988 Vanagon GL
2009 audi a3

www.sunroofsyncro.com
vanagonmechanic.com

http://facebook.com/pittsburghvanagonclub
https://www.youtube.com/minskmade


my super slow 1987 sunroof syncro rebuild
https://goo.gl/photos/7e9MZhHJxGvvv1Tm7

VANAGON STICKERS
https://www.etsy.com/shop/pigeonink
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the recommendation for a complete system for manual locks?

The Valet 712T is for those with actuators already installed.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The kit in the OP can be installed in manual vehicles with the brackets they supply, but I think you'll need the slider door contact kit and some extra length of harness in order to reach the rear hatch. I installed that same kit in my PDL van, and had lots of extra brackets and harness left over since I was able to use existing actuator mounts and the factory harness to the slider and hatch.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thanks. Somehow missed the actuator link! That is the kit I have installed but I had to jump my battery and I think I fried one or both actuators. They just buzz now when I turn the key and the locks jump up and down. Where they were synchronized before they are separated now and only work manually. Sounds like I need to replace them both, right?
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: keyless system install Reply with quote

vwlovr wrote:
okay, here's a "little" write up on my install of the MES central locking kit with new actuators, and the Valet 712T keyless remote module into my 87 syncro which was already equipped an OEM central locking system....


Just wanted to add my own Thank You! to this VWLovr - And to Cascadia for mentioning the kit in another thread ;-}
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A1 Electric should be sending me kickback$ for all the times I've pimped their products over the interwebz.

This install is a no-brainer for anyone with factory PDLs that are getting flaky, or for those looking to add PDLs.
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