Baja March-April 2024

[Klister]

Here's a quick roundup of our recent trip. May get to putting together a video sometime.

We picked up our van from its restoration with Shane Jordan in La Paz https://www.livethevanlife.com/ and headed south (see the restoration thread here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10212962#10212962

We spent a few days in La Paz, shopping for food, snorkeling with the whale sharks, eating, etc.

We headed to the Sierra de la Laguna, pausing to visit El Triunfo and the two wonderful museums there, one on the mining history the other on the ranching history. It is a cute little town that has transformed itself from mining centric to tourism.

We also stopped at the Cactus Sanctuary outside of town where the local community was given a federal grant to purchase a biologically rich 200 or so acres. They now run and maintain it. Lupe showed us around then invited us to his village, showed us his house and plot of land. He got on his dirt bike, and we followed him of a tour of a mine adit and the stone dam and water conveyance system from the 1800s at the springs.

We stopped in Santiago and then headed to the Rancho Santa Rita hot springs for the evening and got the quick tour. The springs officially close at 6 but we were showed where the key was kept if we wanted an evening soak. There was a Sprinter there and a group of ecology students from Santa Cruz with their instructors, so as a retired wildlife ecologist I got to chat with them a bit. In the morning, we took another soak before heading out – no one else was down at the springs.


We went back to Santiago and then up another canyon to Rancho San Dionasio. https://www.facebook.com/100064362925621/photos/?p...U&_rdr

I was a bit surprised to see regular cars venturing up this way. At the beginning of the route is about a mile or so of sand wash with soft sand shoulders. So, when a vehicle is coming the other way it can get tricky. On the way out 2 big SUVs were coming our way and the lead one flagged me down.

“Are the waterfalls up this way?” asked the Americans.

“Yea, they are” I replied.

I bogged down getting started but already had the rear differential locked so got out easily.

It was included in the Biosphere Reserve and is the last ranch up the canyon. While other ranches are still involved in herding and tanning, Rancho San Dionisio is an eco-camping place. Clarence and Isabell have worked hard on this place – a huge garden (which you can use) composting toilets, WIFI, a large communal kitchen and plenty of space for the van.

We met some interesting travelers and some locals who came up from town to celebrate grandma’s 82nd birthday. They insisted I get a couple swings at the piñata and then gave us some great ceviche and birthday cake! We spent several days here relaxing and taking hikes – and me looking for lizards and snakes.

We slowly headed north and decided to visit Todos Santos for a couple of days, staying at the Hostel, which had space for a couple vans besides their glamping tents or inside lodging. A nice communal kitchen and a small bar.

We took a couple of nice hikes and drove over to Punto Lobos to watch the fisherman come in with their catch. We took a hike up the bluff behind the point for a spectacular view.

We found the best tacos of the trip attached to a fresh fish store (good find) where we found only locals. It was only open 12-3:30 so it was a late lunch-early breakfast. Spicy, spicy!

Next was Loreto where we parked in town at the Palmas Altas Yoga Retreat. There is another in-town place to stay but it is sardine-like and noisy, right by the main plaza. This was a lovely, peaceful place walking distance to El Centro. We met a handful of travelers there – always interesting to see what other folks are doing – including this pair of intrepid Brits. https://www.madornomad.com/aboutus/

I met the Chorros cross-border MC in the plaza and we swapped contact information so I could send them some photos.

We found Loreto a bit touristy but there were some small shops where we had some pleasant conversations. Found some decent tacos as well.

Next was San Ignacio where we had stayed on our way down. It was Santa Semana, an important religious and vacation time for Mexicans. The square was hopping with families and entertainment. We walked around town and were lucky to come across the town’s religious procession – a reenactment of the Stations of the Cross. Many prayers, chanting, and songs while stopping at each station for the youngsters to play out Christ’s travails.

After all that in the hot sun we HAD to go get a date shake – don’t miss that one.

We were then off to Guerrero Negro. We were on the tail end of the gray whale maternity season so that will have to wait for the next trip. But we spent the night here and the next day visited the Pronghorn Reserve about 10 clicks north. They breed and raise Baja pronghorn here, for release after 7 years. Over 200 now reside in the wild thanks to their efforts.

We also spent some time at the nearby dunes where I caught a glimpse of a kit fox, who saw me from atop a dune while I was at the bottom. By the time I got to the top he was miles away.

We next drove to the Cantavina area for some desert hiking and to visit cave paintings. This area north of Guerrero Negro has a long stretch w/o fuel, so there are entrepreneurial vendors selling gas out of plastic barrels. We don’t carry a gas can (may change that) so partook with many locals. I just filled with 91 octane next chance I had.

We stayed one night behind the restaurant San Ignacito amongst vanagon body parts, piles of metal, big yellow machines, a big flock of chickens, and two huge and semi-friendly St. Bernards. The owner, La Prieta, cooked us a beef taco and beans dinner for 90 pesos so we had to come back for huevos y jamon in the morning. It was quite chilly and blustery overnight. The owner’s son, Eric, is a mechanic and has a number of VW projects going. His syncro is out of commission temporarily after he rebuilt the engine with Porsche pistons but it blew up only 7 miles into it’s maiden journey.`

We stayed one night San Felipie before heading to Mexicalli. On the way we stopped at the tall cactus reserve for a hike. No one else was there! Once we got to San Felipie I wanted to take the van up on the dunes on the south side of town, but the wife vetoed that idea.

We crossed at Mexacalli and had to cool our jets in produce jail as we forgot we had 2 uncut avocados and 1 tomato. After letting the sniffer dogs have their way all over the van we were released and drove up to Anza Borrego.

The flowers were in bloom and the campgrounds full, but it was easy enough to find a place to park for a couple of nights. We took a couple of hikes and enjoyed the solitude.



It was then off to L.A. to visit relatives and then the 3 day drive to Seattle.

[fxr]

Superb trip report, thank you.
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Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[jimf909]

There's a lot to like in this: a four (five?) month spa retreat for the van; two road trips to Baja; lot's of great photos and stories of field trips on the way home. Well done. Thanks.
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- Jim

[livethevanlife]

Wow! Great photos and story telling James! Im always amazed at how many vanagons are hidden away down here in Baja. I buy up as many as I can find
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www.LiveTheVanLife.com
www.VentureLibre.com
https://www.PeaceVans.com/baja
1991 Syncro Triple Knob Westfalia "Miki" 2.2WBX
1992 Syncro Triple Knob Tintop "Schnitzel" 1.9AAZ
1990 Syncro Rear Locker Doka Subi 2.2
1974 VW Thing 1835cc
1989 VW Carat