Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Causes of Broken Crankshafts
Page: 1, 2  Next
Forum Index -> Performance/Engines/Transmissions Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
79SuperVert
Samba Member


Joined: May 31, 2002
Posts: 9758
Location: Elizabeth, NJ & La Isla Del Encanto
79SuperVert is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:04 am    Post subject: Causes of Broken Crankshafts Reply with quote

I suspect my crankshaft is broken. My 64 40hp was rebuilt with oversize pistons, so I'm told.

If the crankshaft is broken, what precautions can I take when it gets rebuilt to prevent it from happening again?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
keifernet
Samba Search & Rescue


Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 19395
Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
keifernet is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was probably a fatal flaw in the crank that did it. Just having bigger bore on a 40hp is not what broke the cranks IMHO... Just an old part that either had a flaw in the original forging that took years to show or it was damaged at some point in the life of the engine(s) it was in.

A forged crankshaft will have a "ring" to it when tapped lightly with a hammer or wrench. If it does not ring it is cracked.

Other causes may be improperly/poor balance of parts and running with flywheel loose.

There are still good 40 hp cranks out there. I have a couple of .010/.010 I was saving for some builds if you need one Joe. And some NOS rods too.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger Gallery Classifieds Feedback
79SuperVert
Samba Member


Joined: May 31, 2002
Posts: 9758
Location: Elizabeth, NJ & La Isla Del Encanto
79SuperVert is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. If I need a new crankshaft I don't want to skimp on the quality. I'll be stripping the engine down to the long block and taking it to an old VW mechanic who does engine overhauls for his son's VW shop.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
keifernet
Samba Search & Rescue


Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 19395
Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
keifernet is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

79SuperVert wrote:
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. If I need a new crankshaft I don't want to skimp on the quality. I'll be stripping the engine down to the long block and taking it to an old VW mechanic who does engine overhauls for his son's VW shop.


The quality is there in an original German crank... just need a good one.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger Gallery Classifieds Feedback
79SuperVert
Samba Member


Joined: May 31, 2002
Posts: 9758
Location: Elizabeth, NJ & La Isla Del Encanto
79SuperVert is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The verdict is in. Broken crankshaft. No other apparent damage (isn't that lucky!) Mechanic is going to poke around to see what he has in stock and will get back to me.

He said (if I heard him right) that the broken crankshaft was machined to .025. He is going to look for a stock one and will replace the bearings to match.

I really don't understand much about bearing sizes, so why would a crankshaft be machined to that size? Are the .010 ones you have the stock size? And what does that dimension refer to?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
keifernet
Samba Search & Rescue


Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 19395
Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
keifernet is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

.025 is the MM measurement = approx .010" of an inch.

So that means the crank that broke had been reground/ "turned" from standard size.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger Gallery Classifieds Feedback
79SuperVert
Samba Member


Joined: May 31, 2002
Posts: 9758
Location: Elizabeth, NJ & La Isla Del Encanto
79SuperVert is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So why does someone decide to regrind a crankshaft? To re-use it after it's worn?

Is splitting the case a normal part of fitting oversize pistons?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
tim240
Samba Member


Joined: November 14, 2006
Posts: 176

tim240 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the 40 hp crank is weaker then later versions according to the vw engine rebuilding book I have. If they have been ground and are being used with the 83mm(big bore) pistons instead of the 77mm the cranks can break(if you have a lead foot it dosn't help). Get a good german crank thats std/std or 10/10. One vw mech. told me to watch out for cranks with rod journals that have been ground to much. He said there are reliefs on the sides of the journals that get ground away and that they tend to break if that relief is gone. Anyone got an opinion on this? You might think about dynamic balancing when you rebuild.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
Dale M.
Samba Member


Joined: April 12, 2006
Posts: 20379
Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
Dale M. is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

79SuperVert wrote:
So why does someone decide to regrind a crankshaft? To re-use it after it's worn?

Is splitting the case a normal part of fitting oversize pistons?


As for regrinding journals on crank it's a "standard practice" and not really effecting any performance aspects of crank if there is not any internal flaws....

If you were not able to do regrinds there would be piles and piles of old crankshafts next to any auto repair shop ( so to speak) ...

Depending on if barrels and pistons are "slip fit" or not. If they are slip fit that means the will go into standard case spigots. If the are not slip fit than you have to split case and bore spigots to accept larger barrels and pistons.

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Splitdog
Samba Split Personality


Joined: February 16, 2004
Posts: 4125
Location: Planet VW
Splitdog is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Build a 1600.
_________________
CH³NO²

Z = z² + C

Der Blitzkrieg Kafers

#notacallooker
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
keifernet
Samba Search & Rescue


Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 19395
Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
keifernet is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tim240 wrote:
the 40 hp crank is weaker then later versions according to the vw engine rebuilding book I have. If they have been ground and are being used with the 83mm(big bore) pistons instead of the 77mm the cranks can break(if you have a lead foot it dosn't help). Get a good german crank thats std/std or 10/10. One vw mech. told me to watch out for cranks with rod journals that have been ground to much. He said there are reliefs on the sides of the journals that get ground away and that they tend to break if that relief is gone. Anyone got an opinion on this? You might think about dynamic balancing when you rebuild.


I have built several big bore 40 hp engines over the years and never had that issue. But I am sure I never used more than a 10/10 crank in them.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger Gallery Classifieds Feedback
KTPhil Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34009
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
KTPhil is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a 40hp crank crack, and upon inspection, it could be seen that the machinist removed the radius (stress relief) at the edge of the throw when it was machined oversize, cause a local stress point. Inspect yours carefully before you install it, better yet before you take it from the shop.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
tim240
Samba Member


Joined: November 14, 2006
Posts: 176

tim240 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

at 10/10 the reliefs in the rod journals are probably still there. when the rod journals have been ground to say 30 the reliefs are gone. I have one that is ground at 20/30 and I bought some other cranks because I didn't want to use it.
Quote:

If you were not able to do regrinds there would be piles and piles of old crankshafts next to any auto repair shop ( so to speak) ...

I'm not saying not to buy a good german reground crank I'm just saying there is a limit. If the reliefs are gone and you are going to use 83mm pistons I would look for a better crank.
Quote:

I have built several big bore 40 hp engines over the years and never had that issue. But I am sure I never used more than a 10/10 crank in them.

kind of what I was thinking. If you are going to take the time to find the parts to do a nice 40 horse you probably should get a std/std or 10/10 german crank.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
79SuperVert
Samba Member


Joined: May 31, 2002
Posts: 9758
Location: Elizabeth, NJ & La Isla Del Encanto
79SuperVert is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the comments. I will be talking to the mechanic this week.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
79SuperVert
Samba Member


Joined: May 31, 2002
Posts: 9758
Location: Elizabeth, NJ & La Isla Del Encanto
79SuperVert is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:41 pm    Post subject: Causes of a broken crankshaft - pics posted Reply with quote

Pics of the broken crankshaft:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
wcfvw69 Premium Member
Samba Purist


Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
wcfvw69 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am just curious as to what you were doing with the car/engine when it broke? Just crusing? Hard take off? Etc.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
KTPhil Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34009
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
KTPhil is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When my friend's broke, it was cold and he noticed a noise. Louder than a valve, but the engin ran FINE. We didn't know what was broken as we slowly disassembled it. Actually had the case split and lifted the crank, I mean lifted HALF the crank out of one half before we knew what was wrong! The parts had stayed keyed together (thanks to nice tight end play from the 500 mile old rebuild) and it ran fine, just that damn noise!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
aitor11
Samba Member


Joined: April 26, 2006
Posts: 265
Location: Venezuela
aitor11 is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
When my friend's broke, it was cold and he noticed a noise. Louder than a valve, but the engin ran FINE. We didn't know what was broken as we slowly disassembled it. Actually had the case split and lifted the crank, I mean lifted HALF the crank out of one half before we knew what was wrong! The parts had stayed keyed together (thanks to nice tight end play from the 500 mile old rebuild) and it ran fine, just that damn noise!


I have seen exactly the same with one friend, the engine had a noise and some oil came out where the pulley is, but it was runing.

Aitor
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Rowroy
Samba Member


Joined: November 07, 2006
Posts: 1012
Location: The ass of nowhere
Rowroy is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 6:18 am    Post subject: Re: Causes of a broken crankshaft - pics posted Reply with quote

[quote="79SuperVert"]Pics of the broken crankshaft:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

quote]

Time to get out the JB Weld! Laughing
_________________
Suicide is man's way of telling God, "You can't fire me; I quit!" - Bill Maher
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
79SuperVert
Samba Member


Joined: May 31, 2002
Posts: 9758
Location: Elizabeth, NJ & La Isla Del Encanto
79SuperVert is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
I am just curious as to what you were doing with the car/engine when it broke? Just crusing? Hard take off? Etc.


Engine warmed up, going up a steep hill. Broke after about 1/4 mile of the steepest part.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Performance/Engines/Transmissions All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.