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Lohe
Samba Member
Joined: June 26, 2007
Posts: 662
Location: Chandler, Az
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 Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:58 am Post subject: Replace the entire panel? |
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So here is what I'm working with:
I have a 'parts' bus that I could cut out the entire section out of.
My question is, how much work would it be to get the damn things out? I know there are probably 300 or so spot welds.. any advice on this? |
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thom
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2000
Posts: 5943
Location: Sacramento
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:40 am Post subject: |
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I'd just section it - the more original metal you leave, the better.
_________________
-Thom
1956 Single Cab
1957 Porsche 356A Sunroof
1957 23-Window Deluxe
1957 Mercedes Westfalia single cab
1963 Unimog 404
1965 E-Type |
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derv
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2005
Posts: 2600
Location: Oak Park (Chicago), IL
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:40 am Post subject: |
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What are you asking?
_________________
Jack
| Quote: |
| Mr. Hido: To post your bare ass to virtually all hardened bus enthusiasts casts thick, a slag not easily ground smooth. |
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KWZ
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2004
Posts: 1341
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:17 am Post subject: |
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| thom wrote: |
| I'd just section it - the more original metal you leave, the better. |
I have to respectfully disagree in this particular case. If you can transplant the entire side above the beltline from a similar year panel bus at the factory seams, then the whole bus will be og metal and there will not be any hidden "cross country" aka "Frankenstein" seams to hide. Plus it will be a lot easier to get flat. All this said, it will be a hell of a lot of work either way. |
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thom
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2000
Posts: 5943
Location: Sacramento
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:34 am Post subject: |
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| KWZ wrote: |
| I have to respectfully disagree in this particular case. If you can transplant the entire side above the beltline from a similar year panel bus at the factory seams, then the whole bus will be og metal and there will not be any hidden "cross country" aka "Frankenstein" seams to hide. Plus it will be a lot easier to get flat. |
If one had a super-nice original replacement piece, and was able to duplicate the original assembly technique perfectly, then yes.
_________________
-Thom
1956 Single Cab
1957 Porsche 356A Sunroof
1957 23-Window Deluxe
1957 Mercedes Westfalia single cab
1963 Unimog 404
1965 E-Type |
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ekimikem
Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2004
Posts: 438
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Bear in mind if you decide to just patch the holes you are going to have some fairly serious warpage to contend with. |
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thom
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2000
Posts: 5943
Location: Sacramento
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:15 pm Post subject: |
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| ekimikem wrote: |
| Bear in mind if you decide to just patch the holes you are going to have some fairly serious warpage to contend with. |
Not if you weld carefully. Once you're done welding and dressing out the seam, you can shrink out any warpage.
_________________
-Thom
1956 Single Cab
1957 Porsche 356A Sunroof
1957 23-Window Deluxe
1957 Mercedes Westfalia single cab
1963 Unimog 404
1965 E-Type |
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jeremyrockjock
Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002
Posts: 5008
Location: Richmond, Verjinya
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:40 pm Post subject: |
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I would patch it. Don't over heat it when welding and it should do okay. It will need to be worked though.
_________________
Why buy what you can build.
Step away from the fiberglass and no one gets hurt!! |
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marklaken
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004
Posts: 2416
Location: fort collins, CO
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:54 pm Post subject: Re: Replace the entire panel? |
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| Lohe wrote: |
I have a 'parts' bus that I could cut out the entire section out of.
My question is, how much work would it be to get the damn things out? I know there are probably 300 or so spot welds.. any advice on this? |
my experience with replacing my nose was that it was easiest to hack out the bad panel and grind the spot'd flanges smooth on the restorable bus and do the reverse from the donor bus - hack around the panel then grind the spot'd flanges clean - easier and cleaner than drilling spot welds and air chiseling (which can mangle the flanges)
do the donor panel first, in case something gets screwed up, you are not past the point of no return and can just weld in sheet metal at the hacked in windows of your bus -
also measure to make sure the donor panel is the right size (1/8" too short or long could be a real nightmare)
I think the hardest part will be cleanily removing the bad panel from the restorable bus at the pillar reinforcements in the middle of the panel and getting the replacement panel to match those pieces well
_________________
Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles
'65 rear left beetle fender
15" Bus Wheels in fair condition
Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO |
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marklaken
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004
Posts: 2416
Location: fort collins, CO
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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| jeremyrockjock wrote: |
| I would patch it. Don't over heat it when welding and it should do okay. It will need to be worked though. |
but replacing big panels makes for fun pictures
come to think of it, not sure how the panel welds to the roof - could be tough up there as well....
_________________
Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles
'65 rear left beetle fender
15" Bus Wheels in fair condition
Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO |
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jeremyrockjock
Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002
Posts: 5008
Location: Richmond, Verjinya
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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Oh I don't disagree. It won't be easy. But easier than finding a bigger section and then patching that one in.
_________________
Why buy what you can build.
Step away from the fiberglass and no one gets hurt!! |
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Lohe
Samba Member
Joined: June 26, 2007
Posts: 662
Location: Chandler, Az
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Thanks all, I'm leaning towards doing what Marklaken suggested; cutting out the entire section and smoothing out the spot weld marks. Crap either way is going to be a lot of work, but I have seen a few buses that had window holes welded shut and most of them look like bad. I'm thinking it'll be a LOT of work but will look better in the long run. |
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Bryan67
Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2003
Posts: 2940
Location: Fresno, Ca.
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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Thats what we did on my Panel/Camper.
Now the doors are another story. I finally ended up up with a set of NOS doors.
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If you`re going to do something, do it right. |
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jeremyrockjock
Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002
Posts: 5008
Location: Richmond, Verjinya
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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If you have access to one then go for it.
_________________
Why buy what you can build.
Step away from the fiberglass and no one gets hurt!! |
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Lohe
Samba Member
Joined: June 26, 2007
Posts: 662
Location: Chandler, Az
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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| Bryan67 wrote: |
Thats what we did on my Panel/Camper.
Now the doors are another story. I finally ended up up with a set of NOS doors.
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So you cut the entire section of of another bus? How did you join the roofline with the top part of the other section please? Looks good tho.. I do have access to another walkthrough panel [frame is SHOT and much of the body has metal riveted on top of old rust holes]. I got the doors from it to replace the one that has a window cut in it [frame isn't even there] and the back window because some PO cut a window into that as well!
Nightmares of restoration! How long did it take you to do that side? I have to do the other side as well, but luckily it's shorter! |
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Bryan67
Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2003
Posts: 2940
Location: Fresno, Ca.
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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Well, my friend Bryce did the work but he basically seperated the seams and rewelded the new panel in just like factory. Lots of work but its really the only way to do it.
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If you`re going to do something, do it right. |
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Lohe
Samba Member
Joined: June 26, 2007
Posts: 662
Location: Chandler, Az
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Well, my friend Bryce did the work but he basically seperated the seams and rewelded the new panel in just like factory. Lots of work but its really the only way to do it. |
Thanks, I guess there's no way around it.. I'll post the gory details! |
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TimGud
Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2002
Posts: 6459
Location: Rio Rico Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:15 am Post subject: |
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| jeremyrockjock wrote: |
| I would patch it. Don't over heat it when welding and it should do okay. It will need to be worked though. |
I'd patch it too. The rest of its in decent shape, and its way more work than you think replacing a whole clip. Especially one that size! |
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BarryL 
Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2004
Posts: 14259
Location: Casa de Oro, California
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| Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 9:00 am Post subject: |
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| It's going to be a lot of work but dooable. Up at the inside driprail and the beltrail its all close work. |
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Bryan67
Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2003
Posts: 2940
Location: Fresno, Ca.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 9:32 am Post subject: |
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If you patch it you see most likely see it from the inside. Not cool unless you are going to put interior panels in.
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If you`re going to do something, do it right. |
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