Sliding door takes a very gentle touch

[bobbyblack]

So, I'm not complaining, more just asking:

Flossies' slider has always been quite sensitive. A gentle slide is all it takes. MANY of the other people who work the door seem to want to give it a firm slide to close, but that just results in a rebound that does not catch, but rather opens again. Also, if the closer uses too light a force, it will only half-catch. [I liked the Bay door that you could use the inner handle to do the rear closure pull-in-catch action the opposite of open, but that disappeared on the Vanagon]

So, is this common? I have seen a thread dealing with a small rubber bit at the back of the door opening, and investigated mine to find it is properly in place. I did receive on order what appears to be a 3D printed version for replacement, but since mine was still intact, have not yet done the replacement.

The best closure works with two hands, one on the handle and one on the rear outer face of the door. Very light touch, and its good. From inside, its a light slide, and a firm hold on the inside handle pushing forward, light force touch and its good to go.

Should I do something to increase the range of force for all those that keep trying to give it a harder close? I find myself cringing and then offering to get back there and close it myself, even with the same people as they forget.

I should mention that the body to door seals are probably the originals, and don't offer a true seal. Perhaps that is one reason it is so finicky, as they offer no amount of resistance in the closure process as I expect less aged ones would.

Thanks,

-bobby
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'87 Westy 'Flossie','86 Westy 'R1','86 tintop GL - Subi2.2 'J2','83.5 stock tintop L 'ZoomBus','74 Karmann Ghia, '63 Notch

[shagginwagon83]

My 83.5 takes a load of force to close. Not enough and it will rebound and you have to try again. I haven't serviced it at all. It's on my to do list.
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Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[bobbyblack]

Brandon,

Same with my 83.5, go figure.
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'87 Westy 'Flossie','86 Westy 'R1','86 tintop GL - Subi2.2 'J2','83.5 stock tintop L 'ZoomBus','74 Karmann Ghia, '63 Notch

[E1]

Van 1 door took a yank but was solidly closed, Van 2 won't lock if using even the slightest bit less than full yank action.

Passenger door on both wants more slammage than I like. That installer had Bock with his Schnitzel.
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‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[?Waldo?]

[?Waldo?]

From the archives:

[bobbyblack]

Thanks Andrew, I will take a closer look at the rear.

-bobby
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'87 Westy 'Flossie','86 Westy 'R1','86 tintop GL - Subi2.2 'J2','83.5 stock tintop L 'ZoomBus','74 Karmann Ghia, '63 Notch

[pinetreeporsche]

If you have both hands free (and are closing it from the outside), use your right hand on the handle and keep the left near the back edge. Don't roll it rapidly forward, but at a moderate rate, and push inward on the back/left hand to facilitate thee latching. From the inside, no similar 'trick'. BIT clean every portion of the door, the tracks at the bottom and the middle, and lube the rubber weather seals with silicone,

[dougnlina]

My 87 is the same, with the latch only on the back I just close it by getting it rolling and then push in where the rear latch is. Trying to close it with the handle only works about half of the time.
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"Olive" a '60 Ragtop Beetle
"Grover" a '87 Syncro Poptop 1.8T

[alaskadan]

Whilst it very well maybe the latch spring being weak, I've had both situations with my current door. It used to take a lot more oomph to close it so I adjusted the post on the body that the rear latch catches on. Cracked it loose and moved it out and re tightened. I went a little too far and now it closes so easily if closed too hard it bounces back. So I just need to move the post back in a little. Its easy and worth a try.

[DirtyBlueVan]

Same Issue, learned about it from the door opening on the freeway It can be gently shut by just using the left hand to put pressure on the rear when you shut it, as others have mentioned. Fixing it is on my to do list, so thanks for the suggestions above!
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1989 Syncro Westfalia 2.5 smallcar subie

[Sodo]

I bet its most often a matter of lubrication in the latch assembly. Theres too much friction (or gummed up). The door is bouncing off the stops faster than the mechanism can “catch it”. Squirt oil into the latch assembly so that parts can “move faster” thus catch and lock before the door bounces past. You may have to remove some mounting screws just to get a squirt hole.

Sorry Im 100miles away from my van or I’d tell more how to lube it. Plus I’ve already typed a book on TheSamba this AM and gotta get outta the house! There must be a thread on this (but Im remote, typing on a phone). Maybe theres a crucial lube location that simply needs a tiny “mullendore port” drilled.

You don’t want to slam your door for years and years, you will surely age your van prematurely. Your handle pivot will wear out sloppy in its hole due to much rougher handling than its designed for. Lube that latch mechanism at the rear center of the slider and you will be much happier (and quieter too).
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[?Waldo?]

[bobbyblack]

Andrew, sodo,

this isn't a "take to door off" thing, is it?

I'd gladly buy a new spring, if I knew what to tell my favorite vendors.

I'll gladly clean and inspect, too. Lube? Sure thing!

The advice to reshape the clasping bit might scare me, I would have to see and think it through a bit.

Thanks all!
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'87 Westy 'Flossie','86 Westy 'R1','86 tintop GL - Subi2.2 'J2','83.5 stock tintop L 'ZoomBus','74 Karmann Ghia, '63 Notch

[?Waldo?]

No door removal necessary. The inner door card needs to be removed and the rear latch assembly can then be removed using an 90° screwdriver or a bit in a 1/4" wrench. I have a couple little ratcheting wrenches that will accept normal bits and those work really well for jobs like this.

No need to purchase any replacement spring. I've always just stretched the existing spring so it applies more pressure.