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Anyone ever shear off a CV Joint Bolt?
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Dharma_Bum
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 9:00 pm    Post subject: Anyone ever shear off a CV Joint Bolt? Reply with quote

I repacked the CV Joints today and installed and wired in the VSS for the Subaru engine. All went well until I checked the Bentley and went back thru with a torque wrench... Bentley says to torque to 33 lbs... seems a little high. One of the bolts on the wheel side started feeling a little spongy so I quit.

Anyone ever break one off on the wheel side? I bet it is not a fun job to fix....

Comments / suggestions?
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perrib
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should be able to remove it from the trans. and slide out the axle with the stub axle. Use new bolts the torque spec is correct.
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McVanagon
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:24 am    Post subject: Re: Anyone ever shear off a CV Joint Bolt? Reply with quote

Dharma_Bum wrote:

Anyone ever break one off on the wheel side? I bet it is not a fun job to fix....

Comments / suggestions?


1) Remove driveshaft, drill crooked hole in broken bolt.
2) Break off EZout in bolt.
3) Break off end of drill bit, trying to remove EZout.
4) Remove hub assembly, place in bench vise.
5) Repeat step 2 and 3
6) Repeat step 2 and 3

It's happened to me twice. The second time, I started on #4.
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bucko
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:07 am    Post subject: Re: Anyone ever shear off a CV Joint Bolt? Reply with quote

Dharma_Bum wrote:
I repacked the CV Joints today and installed and wired in the VSS for the Subaru engine. All went well until I checked the Bentley and went back thru with a torque wrench... Bentley says to torque to 33 lbs... seems a little high. One of the bolts on the wheel side started feeling a little spongy so I quit.

Anyone ever break one off on the wheel side? I bet it is not a fun job to fix....

Comments / suggestions?


I've seen it done when folks use an SAE allen instead of the correct metric allen tool. Close, but the SAE will round out the inner allen hole.
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captainpartytime
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done this before. I was able to remove the bolt fairly easily after removing the axle shaft.
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winkshog
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I've seen it done when folks use an SAE allen instead of the correct metric allen tool. Close, but the SAE will round out the inner allen hole.

I am working on taking out the trans and went to remove the CV joint bolts. Mine are not allen or torks. is there a 3rd or are mine [email protected]$ up

thanks

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ckissick
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had three of them shear while driving, after the other three loosened and fell out. On the wheel side. I had to take the entire hub/bearing out to get it on the work bench. I couldn't get the last bolt out, so I bought a whole new (well, used) hub.

It was a chance to do my rear bearings. I decided to do both sides, along with brakes and CV's. All in all, it was a good project and the doka is much happier now.
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winkshog
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I've seen it done when folks use an SAE allen instead of the correct metric allen tool. Close, but the SAE will round out the inner allen hole.

I am working on taking out the trans and went to remove the CV joint bolts. Mine are not allen or torks. is there a 3rd or are mine [email protected]$ up

thanks
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes 6 sided allen bolts, but never 8 sided torks.

Usually they are 12 sided "triple squares" and use this socket http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=TZE0016&cartid=1204200730206885
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deprivation
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've broken several because the 33 lbs spec is way too high. The good news is that if you break one off. it's not actually stuck in the metal as is the case with other bolts. I just undid the other bolts, removed the joint and took out the remainder of the broken bolt with my fingers. The bolt is being tensioned between the bolt head and the threads in the drive flange (or axel stub) so basically once the head snaps off, there's no more tension and it comes out pretty easy.

I also managed to round out the inside of a few bolts before I figured out I needed a 12-point bit. Ya learn...
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WM971252
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"I've done this before. I was able to remove the bolt fairly easily after removing the axle shaft."


Yep done that many times
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jolotter
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the entire left side axle off and the inner right side too before I stripped the heads of 3 of the last 6 Mad I drilled the heads off with a bit just larger than the threads. A royal PITA. Well it turn out that the inners were all allen and the outers were triple square! I'm surprised the left side came off with the allen bit in the triple square head.

Johann
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