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Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine
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JasianBusBoi
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2024 3:26 pm    Post subject: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

Hello all-

I am not sure what I am looking at after pulling this Type 4 from a 74 Westy. I was just about to disassemble it and noticed some cut pipes. Can someone help me identify what they are?

Thanks
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KentABQ Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2024 3:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

Those were injection ports from the smog pump.
Exhaust was circulated back into the combustion chamber thru those ports.
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Last edited by KentABQ on Mon Jan 15, 2024 3:32 pm; edited 1 time in total
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2024 3:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

Welcome!
Those were once part of the air injection/exhaust afterburner system.
If they are in your way 10mm x 1.0 hex drive pipe plugs, or valve adjuster screws do a good job of plugging the hole into the exhaust port down under the fins.
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JasianBusBoi
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2024 3:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

Thanks for the info and providing info on how to plug them up!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2024 4:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

I would be afraid they might break off if you attempted to remove them. Just remove the old tubing at the nut and braze to piece going into the head closed.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2024 6:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

Turns out I’m working on this today. If they remove okay then you can buy plugs from [email protected]. If they don’t remove well then you’ll be as screwed as me
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2024 7:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

Air injection, not exhaust. EGR is exhaust recirculation, which is different.

Warm those fittings up with propane heat for sixty seconds and they will come apart like magic. Put a wrench on them cold and you will cry tears
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2024 7:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

Damn,
Looking at your pics. Seems like a model T engine. No offense but I started working on these about 50 years ago and times have changed
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2024 11:56 am    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
Damn,
Looking at your pics. Seems like a model T engine. No offense but I started working on these about 50 years ago and times have changed


50 years ago, the newest Ford Model T was newer than some buses with T4 engines in them are now.....

Ford 1927-> 1973 = 46 years ..
bus 1973->2024 = 51 years.

Strange thoughts.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2024 8:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

trying to find a picture of one of these pipes not installed. i have a bus that ejected one of them and I can't find it, want to make something but I'm not sure how long to make it. can't guess with whta I have since theres a solid chance the threads are stripped out, so i can't guage it in place and I don't want to try to remove one of the other plugs that are installed, since they are all kludged, none are actually the og part.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2024 9:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

I recently fixed this problem for a customer. It involved removing the engine and upper cylinder tin.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2024 10:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

Wait, are you actually trying to repair the air injection system? That was single-handedly the worst thing VW ever did to the Type 4 engine….

If you want to plug it, a M10x1.0 set screw works. That’s a great use for an old T4 valve adjuster screw…. I slather the upper threads in copper RTV. They’re in hot exhaust flow, but not combustion pressure. Gravity + some thread engagement + cleanly applied RTV should get you many many miles.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2024 7:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

Here's a plug that popped out

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Here's the plugs I made

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It's a double plug. The m10X1.0 valve adjuster backed up by a pipe plug
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2024 6:57 am    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

I see mention of M10 x 1MM to plug the holes. What is the best way of avoiding the screw from bottoming out? Is there an ideal length to use?
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2024 7:11 am    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

When I installed the plugs they did bottom out. Then I installed the backup lock
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2024 9:54 am    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

Interesting question, I've never studied the hole that closely, yet they all seem to stop after going in a dozen(ish) turns, the threads might end before the edge of the port?, or maybe there's so much carbon built up in the threads it jams them there?
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 29, 2024 8:03 am    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

If you really want to do the best job EMW sells aluminum plugs for these.
You tap to an oversize and thread them clear thru to where they protrude into the port.
Then you can die-grind the plug smooth/flush with the exhaust port wall and make sure the port flows nicely with no disturbance/turbulance.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2024 6:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Help identifying cut piping on a Type 4 Engine Reply with quote

so on my motor in my other bus, I bought bolts from mcmaster, ran them in, then marked and cut the ends ot match the contour of the exhaust path. lots of work since they need to come back out for the sheetmetal, and i didnt realize how tihgt they would be with the intake but it worked, this was a FI motor. my current issue is on a different bus with a motor installed. unfortunatly it looks like the threads all got stripped out, since the stud i have is 50mm long and slips in, and looking at the photo there should actually be about 45mm of bolt past the surface of the head. measuring off hte picture you posted, its also 45mm so i guess I was right. im thinking i'll slather it in jb-weld and stick it back in, there is ZERO thread left, it just slips on in, must have had next to nothing holding it in place originally. I was going to make a fancy wedge peice on my lathe for it out of aluminum so the steel/aluminum combo didn't start to leak over time, but i guess i really have do actually do that now. nice that the threads are optional for me tho, as that is an odd size.
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