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1973 VW Thing "Face Lift" Many pictures!
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Michael B
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:33 am    Post subject: Underside paint Reply with quote

Finished up the body metal work for now and will leave the outside body work and paint for a later date (plan is when my son gets older).

After doing another 3+ hours of sandblasting I decided to paint with Por-15 Gloss black. This stuff paints on great and should last for many years to come, and it should because it cost 120.00 a gallon. After letting the paint dry/cure for a few weeks next thing will be the Herculiner painted in the wheel wells only. I hadn’t planed to paint the wheel wells with the Por-15, but had covered all the blasted areas and that didn’t leave all that much left. The Herculiner will give a more consistent coating in the wheel wells and from what I read should be just the trick for toughness.

So, there’s no guess on what this engine is worth? Is anyone watching?

Here are some pictures…. Smile

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After paint…

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mattt
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the engine runs, I'd say its worth in the neighborhood of $600-$1000. Now let me qualify this statement, that appears to be a 73 original shroud. Just that shroud alone is worth roughly $250. If you are going to build another T-1 engine for it, you might want to hang on to that shroud as they are hard (and pricey) to come by. It appears to have a Weber progressive and an 009. I've never driven that combo but I haven't heard good things about it either. How was the drive-ability? Does it idle well and does it run smooth and transition well going up thru the gears? Did it have an oil temp or cyl head temp gauge? I've heard of 1835's running hotter than average because of the thin wall cylinders.

Question for you if you wouldn't mind....is there any identifying name or # on that exhaust header or muffler? I had a thread going a while back about a mystery header on a Thing of mine that I couldn't ID or match up a muffler to. If you look down on the 3 bolt triangle flange where the header/muffler come together is it sticking straight out, or is it slightly curved to the right? That pic looks very similar to the header I have. I had a custom muffler made to mount to it. I've since found out that it may be a "4tuned" header and muffler. They are long out of business. I think the pics of the header I have are still in my gallery pics. Not that it matters much now, but I'd like to know what muffler mounts up directly to this header. Thanks in advance.
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Michael B
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattt wrote:
Question for you if you wouldn't mind....is there any identifying name or # on that exhaust header or muffler? Thanks in advance.


I looked and didn't see any numbers, but that's not to say there isn't any.

Your right that these look the same for sure. Sorry that I can't be of any help here.

Thanks for your input on the pricing of the engine.

Michael
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mattt
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael B wrote:
mattt wrote:
Question for you if you wouldn't mind....is there any identifying name or # on that exhaust header or muffler? Thanks in advance.


I looked and didn't see any numbers, but that's not to say there isn't any.

Your right that these look the same for sure. Sorry that I can't be of any help here.

Thanks for your input on the pricing of the engine.

Michael


What is the orientation of the triangle header/muffler flange? It the top bolt at 12 o clock or 1 o clock? It is coming straight back looking down on it, or is it slightly kicked to the passenger side like the one I have?

P.S. You going to keep that 73 Thing only shroud or let it go with the engine?
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Michael B
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattt wrote:
Michael B wrote:
mattt wrote:
Question for you if you wouldn't mind....is there any identifying name or # on that exhaust header or muffler? Thanks in advance.


I looked and didn't see any numbers, but that's not to say there isn't any.

Your right that these look the same for sure. Sorry that I can't be of any help here.

Thanks for your input on the pricing of the engine.

Michael


What is the orientation of the triangle header/muffler flange? It the top bolt at 12 o clock or 1 o clock? It is coming straight back looking down on it, or is it slightly kicked to the passenger side like the one I have?

P.S. You going to keep that 73 Thing only shroud or let it go with the engine?


Take a look with it in the Thing and I hope this helps Smile
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I will most likly keep the shroud and sell the engine. Keep in mind that this is the right engine for this year Thing. I almost sure this is the case that came with it new.
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mattt
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the pic. It looks like the flange is somewhat kicked to the right. Is there a "4tuned" embossed into the muffler body? I've seen a 4tuned muffler with that identifying mark.

All 73 & 74 US Things came with an "AM" case. If your case serial # begins with AM, it's an original Thing engine. Not much difference from std. type 1 case except it has the threaded bosses for the rear skid plate to attach to.
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mstatedog
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you ever tried to apply paint or filler to POR-15?...its an ass to scuff and get other things to stick to...just something I noticed while doing mine.

dog
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Michael B
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mstatedog wrote:
have you ever tried to apply paint or filler to POR-15?...its an ass to scuff and get other things to stick to...just something I noticed while doing mine.

dog


No I haven't tried yet, although maybe a light sandblast might give it a little bit Wink

Thanks for the insite Idea

Good to know Matt, about the case ID info.
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mattt
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mstatedog wrote:
have you ever tried to apply paint or filler to POR-15?...its an ass to scuff and get other things to stick to...just something I noticed while doing mine.

dog


I had to think about this for a while because I did mine so long ago. But I now remember what I did on the advice of the POR-15 rep. When I POR'd my floor pan, shortly thereafter I fog coated it with primer from a spray can. IIRC, they told me to fog coat it with my choice of primer within hours of applying the POR. I don't remember how long I let it set up, but it may have been somewhat tacky still. That was 5-6 years ago, and the paint over the POR is still in place and looking good. I spray canned the whole floor pan after the POR.

Or, if you are after the fact, I think POR makes a primer that will adhere to the POR-15. I don't remember the name of it right now.....maybe Top Coat???
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mstatedog
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I switched to eastwood's version of Por 15...I think its called rust encapsulator....and it seemed easier to work with...

Por 15 is a damn good product though...

dog
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stevehenderson
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"have you ever tried to apply paint or filler to POR-15?"

They make there own filler & primer, part of their system, it works just fine, but a little pricey. Look on their web site. I bought some.

http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=3
http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=10
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Michael B
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevehenderson wrote:
"have you ever tried to apply paint or filler to POR-15?"

They make there own filler & primer, part of their system, it works just fine, but a little pricey. Look on their web site. I bought some.

http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=3
http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=10


No I haven't tried any other products of POR-15 although they look interesting!

I just call them after reading their web site and asked about applying a top coat of Herculiner and all that I need to do is scuff the surface of the POR-15 with sandpaper or sandblast. Then just apply top coat.

If I had applied it before the POR-15 dried, then there's no need for sanding.
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mstatedog
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that seemed to be the fun of POR 15...waiting til it got just right (tacky) to prime...the stuff takes a while to dry...and scuffing with sandpaper or scotchbright is like a day in hell.

I like the idea of a light blasting...but then again blasting and POR 15 are pretty messy.

dog
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Michael B
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I got the wheel wells done with the Herculiner Very Happy . I used my 4-1/2” die grinder with what is called Power plus surface blending & finishing discs. With the grinder set on low speed and using a medium disc I was able to scuff the surface of the POR-15. It is a dirty job but I think it was better then hand sanding Wink .

Pictures: After using sanding disc, two coats of Herculiner. Sorry for the low pixels of the pictures.

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Thanks for info mstatedog.


Last edited by Michael B on Mon Feb 11, 2008 6:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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mstatedog
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah man...just wanted to pass along my experience with the stuff...it does do a damn good job though....

dog
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bmwloco
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used POR-15 when restoring my Porsche 912.

The stuff is flat right. Wear gloves, put on with a sponge, I did my pans, top and bottom after restoration. It's the closest thing to powder coating

Years later, after using it on my '71 Dodge, it's still as new.
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kuebelwagen84
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bmwloco wrote:
I used POR-15 when restoring my Porsche 912.

The stuff is flat right. Wear gloves, put on with a sponge, I did my pans, top and bottom after restoration. It's the closest thing to powder coating

Years later, after using it on my '71 Dodge, it's still as new.


I picked up some rust bullet and then the rust bullet chassis black to go over the silver with... I haven't touched it yet as I'm doing body off work this spring but I hear it's the same way...

just hope I don't have the same issues Michael had with trying to go over it after it dries... I'm pretty sure it's essentially the same stuff but does anyone have any experience with it?
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sydneyh2
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used Rust Bullet several times. I tried to wire brush some of it off some parts with an angle grinder once to see how easily it came off. It didn't.

You can usually paint right over that stuff and get pretty good adhesion.

John

'73 Thing
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kuebelwagen84
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sydneyh2 wrote:
I tried to wire brush some of it off some parts with an angle grinder once to see how easily it came off. It didn't.


nice, that'll do well protecting my floors and rockers

also good to know that I won't have to do any prepping on top of it to paint over it
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any progress in the last cpl of weeks?
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