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Screw terminal wire caps
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type2much
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 4:32 pm    Post subject: Screw terminal wire caps Reply with quote

does McMaster-Carr sell the end caps (or maybe they are called ferrules?) for screw terminal connections on a 60 bus? If so does somebody know the part number?

or who sells them?

thanks!
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type2much
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is what I mean

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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try Newark Electronics or Mouser.com
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Campy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They look like the aluminum pieces that get crimped on the end of a bicycle's brake cable that you can get for almost nothing at a bike store.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shoelace eyelets look like that before crimping.

If all else fails hit your local hobby shop for some 1/8" brass tube (gas powered model airplanes) and an exacto saw and cut your own, if your'e real crafty you could figure out how to flare the ends too.
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codeMechanic
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campy wrote:
They look like the aluminum pieces that get crimped on the end of a bicycle's brake cable that you can get for almost nothing at a bike store.



aluminum is not good for conductivity.
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Stocknazi
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alunimum is a great conductor of electrictity; however, it will corrode easier than brass/copper. dielectric grease would help that.

i was going to melt a little solder to the ends of my broken wires, but some of the crimp on ferrels would be awesome.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They're plated copper, and they are available at Mouser.com
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW the eyelets on a shoelace are called aglets.
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Rain's Westy
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is a good topic ...I need to spruce up
the OG wiring in the engine compartment of my 56 and this is what I need to do it good to know where to get these little things!... COOL!
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 2:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

type2much wrote:
this is what I mean

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This Digi-Key ferrule is available from digikey.com for about 7 cents each in 100 quantity. They charge an extra $5 handling fee if your order is under $25. The ferrules are available for wire sizes 14-16-18-20 AWG, 0.5-2.5 mm2, so you can have 6 different size ferrules depending on wire size and ferrule length.

Mouser has Phoenix Contact ferrules that are similar but they are around 11 cents each in 100 quantity, and they do not charge extra for orders under $25.

Newark has a $25 minimum order, period. I try not to go there. In 18 AWG ferrules they list a minimum package order of 1000 for $41. It's really the best price at 4 cents each but that would certainly last you and all of your friends for a bus or 2.

And yes, McMaster has them too, for the next best price, and 29 different sizes....
# 9681K56 Non-Insulated Crimp-on Wire Ferrule 18 Awg, .47" length, $5.77 for a box of 100.
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type2much
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for all the good info. Is 18 guage the right size for most of the bus wires?
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

type2much wrote:
thanks for all the good info. Is 18 gauge the right size for most of the bus wires?


I only picked 18 gauge in my post above to be consistent with your digi-key picture above that. There are obviously many different wire sizes in a bus. You can look on the wiring diagrams (here or at vintagebus.com) and the little numbers next to the wires are the wire sizes in mm2.

Looking at a 59 bus diagram, wire sizes are all over the place - like the 4 wires going back to the tail lights are 2 @ 0.75 mm2 (20AWG) and 2 @ 1.5 mm2 (16AWG). The light switch has 7 wires - 3 @ 0.5 (22AWG), 1 @ 1.5(16AWG), 1 @ 2.5(14AWG), & 2 @ 4.0(12AWG).

I've never had a screw terminal bus so I don't know how the early harnesses are made. Do they have a separate ferrule on each wire, or are several wires crimped and soldered together in a larger ferrule when they need to be?

Conversions to AWG are only approximate:
0.5 mm2 = 22 AWG
0.75 mm2 = 20 AWG
1.0 mm2 = 18 AWG
1.5 mm2 = 16 AWG
2.5 mm2 = 14 AWG
4.0 mm2 = 12 AWG
6.0 mm2 = 10 AWG
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type2much
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is not my bus but it has the the same screw terminal wiring. My wiring was attacked by the hack monster, I am sorting it out using the bently manual and pictures like this one. Most of the wires each have their own ferrule, a few are crimped together in the same ferrule.[/quote]
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the wire diagrams in the technical section are much more helpful than the ones in the bently. i like to put them on a floppy disk and have the local kinkos/office depot enlarge and print them. laminate them to keep them clean. i don't understand why bently did not publish the diagrams in color in the reprint manuels.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okie-Dokie! Time to re-open this old thread about connector ends...

I'm about to go through the hell of converting a Wire Works later spade connector harness for a 1959-63 Type 2 to a "screw-terminal" style harness for a 6 volt 1959 Bus. We just pulled the old original wire harness yesterday and pulled the new Wiring Works harness from rear through the chassis and into the front cab and to the fuse box. When I purchased this new harness (many years ago) from Bob at a SOTO show, the harness came with later-style spade connectors, getting one with screw-terminal connectors wasn't an option. My question is: Has anyone else done this before? Cut off the spade connectors and successfully attached screw connector brass ends onto the bare wire ends? My hope is to try to duplicate the look and function of the original connection ends as much as possible/practical.

If so, what was your process? Do you solder the bare wires first and then slip on "purchased" connector ends. Do you crimp or solder the ends to the wire? If crimped, any particular crimper tool needed? Can you describe and/or provide any photos the process for all of us amateur VW electricians? I'm assuming that it might be a good idea to put a little dielectric grease on the connector during assembly to halt future corrosion. Fill us in on any of the hazards and tips about doing this if you can. Thanks in advance for sharing any of your experience and expertise!

Bill
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're not too picky, you can cut all the spade ends off of the terminals on your new harness leaving just the part that is crimped over the wire end. This part will fit right into the screw terminal holes. It will look just fine but not quite like original. A hell of a lot easier/cheaper though!
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Ian
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My recommendation is to cut the spades off, strip a little wire, and solder the end. Then stick the soldered end in your screw-terminal connection. I prefer this method as the solder is really soft and the screw terminals get a great bite into the end of the wire.

Never seen those ferrules for sale around these parts....must be a geographical oddity....
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wish I had the time or patience to use the ferrules, but I just cut, stripped, tinned with solder, and installed. Seems to have worked OK. The right and left front turn signal wires are too short when you cut the ends off the wiring works harness, they fit, but are strung kind of tight. The only other problem was figuring out what to discard from the emergency flasher harness to an earlier harness.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i cleaned up an og wiring harness for my bus; cutting off a small piece and dabbing a little solder on; worked really well; solder your fusebox and headlight switch at the same time if you have not done so already

the t/s wires were super short on my og harness as well. barely made it on the p/s

screw terminal wiring is so much easier to clean up vs the spade terminals

parts are harder to find though
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