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67 Door handle wont open
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67 Shane
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:12 am    Post subject: 67 Door handle wont open Reply with quote

So I locked up my car last night. I went out to get back in and the damn door wouldnt open. I turned the key and the push lock inside raised but the button on my handle when pressed wont open the door. I can go around to the drivers side get in and pull the handle from inside and it opens. When you press the button on the passanger side it presses doesnt open then when you let go it clicks like its going back to the shut position. Whats the deal?
How hard is it to have these re-keyed? Something else I need to do.
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jewest
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the key guy. I have used him with good results.
http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0112vwt_gabriel_volkswagen_garage_locksmith/
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67 Florida Deluxe
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you pull up on the driver's door lock button from inside the car, can you open the door from outside then?
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bill may
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the tip is worn on part that pushes up on linkage. insert key into lock and keep rotating it upwards and you will see the button move upwards until it unlocks. easy fix is to put drivers handle on passenger side and passenger handle on drivers side.
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67 Florida Deluxe
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bill may wrote:
the tip is worn on part that pushes up on linkage. insert key into lock and keep rotating it upwards and you will see the button move upwards until it unlocks. easy fix is to put drivers handle on passenger side and passenger handle on drivers side.


If the door opens from the outside if he pulls up on the lock button from the inside, then that's the resolution (which is why I asked the question earlier). If the door still wont open when he pulls the button up from the inside, there's another problem.

However, the little oblong paddle on the lock cylinder that pushes the locking mechanism up when you turn the key is a very common component to wear on '67s - which is why it wont push the button all the way up. Swapping handles essentially gives you a "new" paddle surface and it will be a long time before it wears down again. Of course, you should dab some grease on the contact surfaces prior to reinstallation.
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67 Shane
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can pull the lock button up on the stuck door and its unlocked but it still wont open from the outside. I have to open it from the inside by pulling the handle. Even unlocked when you push the button to open from the outside it presses in but wont open. I release the button and I hear a click like its latching again.
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67 Florida Deluxe
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove it and inspect. The retaining screws are hidden beneath the weatherstripping. Use the two semi-circular cutouts on the metal edge as a guide to find the retaining screws. Something may become obvious as the culprit. If not, you may just need to replace it. Gabriel can reset the cylinder to your key code if you send him the handle and key code. He may also be able to repair your old handle, but it may just be as cost-effective to get another one.

However, prior to buying a replacement handle, swap out the driver's side with the passenger side handle to make sure the problem is, in fact, with the handle and not something hanging up on the door latch mechanism. If the passenger side operates fine on the driver's door, you know the problem is with the old handle itself.
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Jon_M
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect timing on this discussion! Now I know how to start to address the problem on my driver's side door. Swap the handles! I never would have thought of that.
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67 Shane
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good Jon glad we could kill two birds with one stone.
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Bren
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

3 killed.
Have been having a similiar problem.
Got better with lots of WD40 but not fixed.
I too will try the handle swap.

Thanks!
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Manxdude
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make that 4 fixed I have the same problem on my 67
Thanks for the help
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Beaboy
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does your 67 have a hole in the door just across from the handle? If so, you should see a little plastic plug that plugs the hole. Pull out the plug and spray in WD-40 to lube the handle mechanism from the inside. You should do this once a year anyway.

Don't know if this is your problem, but it's a sure fire first try.
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John M.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should use Graphite Lube and not WD40 for door locks.
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67 Florida Deluxe
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John M. wrote:
Should use Graphite Lube and not WD40 for door locks.


inside the tumbler/cylinder, yes. I think he was referring to the contact points inside the door. Even so, if you turn the key all the way to unlock the door and it doesnt pop the lock all the way to unlock the door, no amount of lube will be sufficient because the contact points are too far worn. (Hence, the need to swap handles.)
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Axle
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey,
4 birds with 1 stone. I've got a '64 that has lock issues. The handles latch fine, and can be opened from the inside. The pass side will lock the door, but not unlock, the d/s doesn't seem to be engaging the locking mechanism at all. I'm going to try and switch them this weekend. Thanks for the tip guys.

-Alex
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Swapped the door handles, left to right and right to left, and lubed all the moving parts, both in the door handles and inside the doors, with WD-40. I used graphite on the locks, per se. Perfect! Both doors lock and unlock like they are supposed to. No sweat, no expense.
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67 Florida Deluxe
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon_M wrote:
Swapped the door handles, left to right and right to left, and lubed all the moving parts, both in the door handles and inside the doors, with WD-40. I used graphite on the locks, per se. Perfect! Both doors lock and unlock like they are supposed to. No sweat, no expense.


Coolness Cool ! However, I would recommend using a little dab of grease on the topside of the little paddle, where it makes contact with the locking mechanism. It lasts a little longer than WD40.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

67 Florida Deluxe wrote:

Coolness Cool ! However, I would recommend using a little dab of grease on the topside of the little paddle, where it makes contact with the locking mechanism. It lasts a little longer than WD40.


Good suggestion. I'll do that.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jewest wrote:
Here's the key guy. I have used him with good results.
http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0112vwt_gabriel_volkswagen_garage_locksmith/


That's an old article, Gabriel doesn't live there any more. You can e-mail him at [email protected]

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bill may
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

when you remove the 67 type door handles-- look at pin that has the coil spring around it. if the post/long stud is broken you can replace the post by using a "binders post" and a screw to rebuild it. hot vw's had an article on doing this a long time ago.
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