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A-arm design
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1966dunebuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL I'm also using the Cad trial program, but I think I have 60 days??
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everyjuangohome
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget a great way to get software for cheap, take a class at your local community college. They have student pricing for software, you can the student version of solidworks for like 80 bucks. Even if you take a golf class and never attend and take an F
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oneUPfabrication
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 2:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey guys I got some good news. I just talked to my buddy that owns a cnc plasma cutter its ready and running I just have to change some things on my drawings (bolt holes need to be bigger on the spindle and bulk head)

I should be going to kartek this weekend some time to get my lower bushings..debating on upper and lower uniballs the bling factor would be nice. but cost sux! also my buddy with the cnc plasma cutter gave me a tip about this metal place I can get a 4x8 sheet of 10g cold rolled for under 100 bucks so hopefully I get some progress soon!

hey everyjuan I might need to pay you to tig my spindles once there ready I was just gonna mig them but tid would look a lot cleaner since my spindles are 12" tall
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everyjuangohome
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oneUPfabrication wrote:
hey guys I got some good news. I just talked to my buddy that owns a cnc plasma cutter its ready and running I just have to change some things on my drawings (bolt holes need to be bigger on the spindle and bulk head)

I should be going to kartek this weekend some time to get my lower bushings..debating on upper and lower uniballs the bling factor would be nice. but cost sux! also my buddy with the cnc plasma cutter gave me a tip about this metal place I can get a 4x8 sheet of 10g cold rolled for under 100 bucks so hopefully I get some progress soon!

hey everyjuan I might need to pay you to tig my spindles once there ready I was just gonna mig them but tid would look a lot cleaner since my spindles are 12" tall


I have never welded anything for other people. Im insecure about that I guess. Im a self taught welder so Im not a pro or anything. People say my stuff looks good but you know how that goes. Just hit me up when you get the pieces all cut out.
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1966dunebuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm just curious to know, anyone have or know of street legal a-arms?
I would love to have a street legal a-arm Rail!!
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seabeebuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is not the arms you need to get street legal.. Monster manx sells a street legal a arm car/ rail/ buggy.
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oneUPfabrication
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya the car or rail needs to be street legal not the suspension. I mean there are other laws like depending where you are you can get a ticket for not having your fender walls cover you tires and what not but I can build a set of a-arms for my truck and it would still be legal.

now I don't think my baja will be street legal cause my a-arms will be WIDE and not fully covered by the fenders plus I cut the roof and the rear end off pass the quarter panels lol but it will still get its ninja drivings here and there
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1966dunebuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought I read somewhere that a-arms have to be DOT approved, apparently that's wrong...
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seabeebuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that is for people who sell the for street cars. They cans say for racing only never to be used on the highway. You can build your own anything. the Liability is only on you.
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Fordfanatic01
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow i haven't been on in a while, spent some time up at my dad's doin some fabrication, nothing exciting yet, just cuting away at rust, forming the tube chassis. next time i head up his way in a few weeks ill take pixs. flight school has me flying over time so i can catch up.

oneup any updates? photos Razz
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Fordfanatic01
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so i thought i would come in here with a few updates, finally got 95% of my flying hrs down! and im going back to work on the baja... ran into some very large set backs... ie. my welder was jacked from out front of my dad's, and the motor that was in it is no longer able to suit what i want out of the car. I will be returning in a few days with some photos...
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Trikesareforkids
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1966dunebuggy wrote:
I thought I read somewhere that a-arms have to be DOT approved, apparently that's wrong...


Nope!
I designed my own chassis for my T Coupe & my T Tudor Sedan.
I use MasterCam, But I'm in the process of switching to SolidWorks, it's for drawing only and alot easier to use than the MasterCam I use, which is for machining.

Pat


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rbrduck71
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 4:17 pm    Post subject: Re: A-arm design Reply with quote

I know this is a purdee old thread, however,
thank you guys for the learning experience!!!
I have learned just enough to be dangerous
from this thread and several others like.
I hava sand car that will be drag raced and duned
mid travel car at best.
I have to cut front end off and start over.
some how I had figured out that I must start at the spindles.
I have learned soo many things affect each other
I MUST DO IT MYSELF!!!!!
however the one thing that sounds written in stone
is the order of things being built/set up
oneUPfabrication and carbaholic I know that I have to address
everything to get the best use out of my a arms,
can you guys tell me the order of things to address?
akerman angle, kpi, and scrub radius seem to be very important!

my car is converted to a front engine car with a straight axle in rear
SBC, TH350, 9 inch
THANKS AGAIN!!! to everyone who has posted on this thread
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mkparker
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 8:45 am    Post subject: Re: A-arm design Reply with quote

This may help with some of your questions:

http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/suspensio...nge.64579/
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Fenix
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trikesareforkids wrote:
1966dunebuggy wrote:
I thought I read somewhere that a-arms have to be DOT approved, apparently that's wrong...

I use MasterCam, But I'm in the process of switching to SolidWorks, it's for drawing only and alot easier to use than the MasterCam
Pat


As an industrial designer in the Outdoor Performance industry, I use SolidWorks, Pro/E (Creo), or NX daily. SolidWorks is for far more than just drawing...full blown modeling, surfacing, rendering, design documentation (blueprint drawings), tool design, simulation, and with the right plugins you can create the g-code for the machines as well.

As for the suspension. The one thing that stuck with me from reading some on the subject when I was looking to restore my 30 Ford A, was that geometry of the spindles have with maintaining the turning radius is centered through the rear wheels. So they do not turn uniformly, the side wheel of the turn turns in slightly more than the outside wheel. This is also a critical component in reducing bump steer in the rough and wheel chatter/squeal on the pavement.

http://dynref.engr.illinois.edu/avs.html provides a good interactive animation of the subject.
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mkparker
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 12:33 pm    Post subject: Re: A-arm design Reply with quote

This is called Ackerman Angle.

Here is a less interactive article:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
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rbrduck71
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 2:53 pm    Post subject: Re: A-arm design Reply with quote

thanks fellas, once I get my head wrapped around it I will start, I just got to figure out which step is first
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