Stuck rotor

[rowan]

I'm in the process of upgrading the front brakes on my '87 Syncro. I cannot get the rotor off. I've had Kron on it for several hours. I've banged on it a good deal. Now I have a large gear puller on it tightened about as tight I can get it. It hasn't budged. I should mention that this van set out without running for around three years before I bought it. When I picked it up the front tires were sunk into the mud up to the axles. That said, I've put a couple thousand miles on it.

Does anyone have any ideas? I'm thinking of trying a sledge hammer to see if I can brake the rotor off but I'd really like to avoid that.

thanks,
r

[Dogpilot]

Heat mixed with banging. The big problem is the rotor will shatter if you hit it too hard or just right. A puller would be cool, but I think it would have to be some kind of hydraulic one. Perhaps you could get a hydraulic jack in there to help out pushing while you heat and bang.
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Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G

[rs4-380]

I went through the same battle and actually cracked one of the rotors before it came off.

Lots of penetrant, heat, a puller and a hammer eventually got them off.
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Dave
87 EJ25 Syncro GL

[bucko]

Once you do get it removed, use some anti-sieze on the contact points to prevent it from happening again.

I've used anti-sieze on the threads of the exhaust bolts (again, once removed), and I have been able to remove them several times after without any problems.
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Current VW drives: 1984 Westfalia

Past VW drives: 1967 Beetle, 1973 Beetle, 1977 Bus, 1971 Military Type 181

[rowan]

I finally got the rotor off. The puller and time for the penetration oil to work did the trick. Of course, I also used a good deal of heat and beating on the thing. I took a long - maybe an hour - break, went out and tightened the puller and it moved a bit and then as I keep tightening it came off. Hopefully the weather will good tomorrow and I'll finish the brake upgrade.

thanks to all,
r

[bmwmango]

The same thing happened to me. I got one off by wedging a pickle fork behind it. The other side did not have the same results as the hub came off still attached to the rotor. I had to get it pressed out. I cleaned up the edge of the hub with a wire wheel and painted it with POR-15.
Looking back, I think I could have broke it free by loosening up the front lug nuts a little then driving forward and jamming on the brakes a few times.
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1990 Westy converted to a Syncro Westy
2009 BMW R1200GS
1990 BMW K75
1986 BMW K75 Parts (Deer 1, Beemer 0)

[7thing3]

Where should the heat be directed? I'm having a helluva a time getting it off. Took me several hours and MAP/Oxygen combo to get the axle nuts off. So much so that I ran out of oxygen.
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'73 Thing--Ted
'77 Super Beetle Convertible
'87 Vanagon GL Syncro
'84 Mercedes 280 CE

[Cold Steel]

I just ordered cals and rotors today. I havent started taking these off yet
The rear brakes were tough. Plenty of heat.
I have to look at bently to figure how to get cals off it.

[7thing3]

After much beating, heat, and trying to use a puller to no avail I finally got one off today. I took the whole front knuckle assembly off. Supported underneath the rotor with 2 bricks and hit the heck out of the hub with a engineer's hammer (bigger than a hammer, smaller than a sledge).

Going to pull the passenger side off now and do the same. I needed to take axle out anyways to replace CV boots, add grease, etc.

Should new rotors be machined or are they good to go as they come?
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'73 Thing--Ted
'77 Super Beetle Convertible
'87 Vanagon GL Syncro
'84 Mercedes 280 CE