Pertronix (all points replacements) vs Points

[walter kandetzki]

Was going to get this one originally but I see what you mean now

https://vwparts.aircooled.net/12V-Bosch-Blue-Coil-with-Mounting-Bracket-00-012-p/00-012us.htm

[Alstrup]

Bosch coil. 1,8 ohm. Close enough
https://www.mecatechnic.com/en-GB/bosch-red-12v-coil-for-tsz-electronic-ignition_UC32006.htm
_________________
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[walter kandetzki]

I know it says not available on their site but will this work?says 1,8 ohm on body of coil. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-00013

[modok]

I am sure that coil will work ok, but it would be nice to have more complete specifications.

I do not know if a petronix II will work nicely with TFI. I have never tried it. It probably would work but It would not be better, it might have more voltage drop but I'm not sure.

I went to TFI BECAUSE my petronixII died and I wasn't happy with it's timing accuracy so you can see why I would not be exploring that. Personally I prefer the compufire or computronix modules, and I know they can trigger TFI module ok and I've done that a few times but it's not my favorite.
Using the petronix II you could drive the coil directly and that makes sense BUT....... You could also have a 1.2-1.5 ohm ohm ballast resistor mounted to allow a regular petronix or compufire to run the 1.5-2 ohm coil directly as "backup plan" should the TFI quit.... but I really don't think you will ever need it.
Spark energy would be reduced but still just as good as a half worn out points stock ignition system.
If you have a problem it's probably going to be a loose wire, shorted plug wire, or dirt on the contacts so I don't think you need to worry. If you want to worry just carry a spare everything. Plug in a spare TFI module and see if that fixes it, it's easy with a CONNECTOR

The TFI connector is the same for all models but the wire colors are different. I'm pretty sure any connector can be made to work just have to go by the PIN location instead of the wire color. I bought a new one for 12$ at napa but it was probably on sale, and after the sale they are not in stock usually. Google it, "tfi connector", should work.

[mikedjames]

[Zundfolge1432]

Danielle21 you’ve been gone since 2008 just look what became of your post😀

[Glenn]

[madmike]

He has 6 post total I don't think he's around anymore,
I've been reading a lot of old post from 07-08 ,some good & some very wrong info some guys got Banned, Most just disappeared sad, and a lot of unfinished post, like: did we find the #%&* problem? Nope ,never to be heard from again Cheers,Mike
_________________
'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[millerjon101]

I read up on this patent and built something off of it using a VPT24-1040 transformer and I'm super happy with it. You're only breaking 300 ma of current with the points with a CDI so regardless of point gap etc. you have a very solid spark.

https://patents.google.com/patent/US3564581A/en

I haven't buit this one https://www.wbnoble.com/ but it looks similar and could definitely be a winner/offer similar performance.

[dennismcd707]

Well, I've been reading along, Points vs. Electronic, and had to pipe in. Using a blue Bosch coil, an 009 distributor, and a Pertronix Ignitor ignition, my 71 Super, powered by a healthy 1776, has been humming along since 2004 with absolutely no ignition troubles.

I'm in contact with the previous owner, and he chose to convert to electronic for the same reasons most people do........lack of maintenance and a better spark. I told him I was thinking about buying a second Ignitor module for my emergency tool kit, but he thinks it's unnecessary. (I still think I will, even though they're $104)

...........and here's where I get called stupid for throwing money away on an extra control module. Go ahead, I can take it. If it gives me a little extra peace of mind, then I don't think it's wasted money.
The point of this post is to throw a vote for electronic ignition. An easy upgrade for people like me, who don't like to constantly dick around with points.
_________________
1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[madmike]

Hey Dennis, Yes on the Spare , You can even pick up a good used Diz at a swap meet install the new 'stuff' in it, then install with clamp set timing, then ya only have the one nut to remove ,bang your on the road again,Cheers,Mike
_________________
'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[Glenn]

[oprn]

[wcfvw69]

When I see this ongoing debate about points and condensers vs. modules, there's a few components to it. What are you truly gaining by using a module? Are they more reliable? Most say no. Does it relieve you of one PM maintenance step? Sure.

At the end of the day, our old VW's still require lots of necessary PM maintenance vs. modern cars. You still should change your oil at 3k intervals. At the same time, we should quickly check the valve lash and the points gap. Check the carb mixture adjustment to ensure it's dialed in. Check the fan belt tension, fuel hose condition and look the engine compartment over.

So, you're saving 5 minutes not checking or adjusting the points gap while all the other maintenance steps still need to be accomplished. If you run quality points and condensers and keep the distributor points cam cleaned and lubricated, you can hold the same dwell for lots of miles before it needs to be adjusted.

Reality today is the vast majority of VW's are not daily driven. I'd argue most classic VW's have less than 1k miles put on them each year. I know that's the case with my VW's. We tend to only drive our VW's today on nice weekends, to a car show or doing random errands. Many are simply garage queens.

The great thing about our hobby is we all have our viewpoints and beliefs. If you like the modules, run them. If you like points, then run them.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[Glenn]

You know there are cars out there where you don't have to adjust the points, or change the spark plugs, or set the ignition timing, or adjust the valve lash, or change the air filter, or change the oil, or change the water pump or change the timing belt.....

They're called electric cars.

Just charge them once a week and replace the tires and brakes every 4-6 years.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[heimlich]

Two cars and two different stories:

I've got a set of Beru points with 3500 miles on them. They haven't needed adjusting. That distributor has a Bosch cap, Bosch rotor, and Bosch Mexico condenser.

I have another distributor with aftermarket cap, rotor, condenser, and Beru points. That one I had to change/cleanup the cap and rotor. after about 1500/2000 miles.

I've never been left stranded with points. Two electronic systems went out. One went out while driving down the road. The other when I parked at the grocers.
_________________
www.vwnos.com [email protected]
Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here)

[Glenn]

If you want points to last... get a CDI system. The points only trigger the system and there's no voltage passing between them so they'll never pit. Grease the cam and you'll get 25,000+ miles on a set.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[94touring]

It comes down to personal preference. I never cared for fiddling with points but still have one car (non vw) that the module interferes with a black box, so it's got points. I've had condensors fail, but also had coils leave me walking to a parts store too. Luckily no module failures yet, but in time I'm sure I'll have one go bad. For long road trips I carry spare parts anyway. And in the event the black box on my bus with locked out distributor failed, I have a spare distributor to at least keep me driving.

[Dan Ruddock]

Non mill-spec transistors should not be inside a hot vibrating distributor if you want dead last nearly forever reliability. Duh

[Don Jones]

Buy a Winterburn CDI and run points. This CDI has a switch allowing you to run your ignition (Kettering) which is stock or CDI and also a Off switch to help keep the THIEVES from driving away. This unit can also be used with Petronix I modules. Electronic modules seem to fail because of heat and vibration.

Running the Winterburn in CDI mode, your points receive very small voltage so the points don't pit and will last alot longer.

Read about it and decide:

http://capacitordischargeignition.com/