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dan macmillan Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2003 Posts: 3110 Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 3:56 am Post subject: Rear disk brake question |
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Did you install your rear calipers on the front side or the rear side of the rear axle?
I am installing the setup from CIP EMPI with park brake on a swing axle. They supply a short flex hose to "allow the caliper to move freely" which is a necessity. I started with the caliper to the rear and noticed that the flex hose has no support and you end up with about 12 inches of unsupported steel line { from original rear flex to new shorter one}. Also there is quit a bend in the short flex, clearance for exhaust. I am thinking that if mounted to the front of the axle I can use the spring plate as a mounting point for the short flex and steel line.
How did you do it? Pics please.
For those about to ask...I already used the search button. _________________ Licensed Automotive Service Technician
Licensed Truck and Coach Technician
Licensed Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
CFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation license
Alignment specialist
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
Current projects:
Built for others:69 Manx Clone |
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Glasser Samba Member
Joined: September 18, 2007 Posts: 1640 Location: Calgary Alberta Canada
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:36 am Post subject: |
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I've never mounted disc's with e brake so not sure what to do with that but something that may be of concern is the bleeder valves for bleeding the system. If not at the highest point you may not get all the air out....... "may" is the key word. I should think that they should be mounted so as the bleeder is always on the top. Can the caliper be mounted in both locations with the bleeder on the top? If yes no worries your back to your original question. If no then this helps you make your decision on how they be installed. _________________ Brent
My build up http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=265364&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Project#2. Neighbors build up. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=327008 |
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dan macmillan Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2003 Posts: 3110 Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:11 am Post subject: |
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Glasser wrote: |
I've never mounted disc's with e brake so not sure what to do with that but something that may be of concern is the bleeder valves for bleeding the system. If not at the highest point you may not get all the air out....... "may" is the key word. I should think that they should be mounted so as the bleeder is always on the top. Can the caliper be mounted in both locations with the bleeder on the top? If yes no worries your back to your original question. If no then this helps you make your decision on how they be installed. |
I managed to post the stupid question of the day. There is no room to mount the caliper on the front side of the axle. The caliper must go on the back side of the axle. As for the bleeder reply. The bleeder does have to be at the top but this could have been accomplished by swapping calipers side to side. I am currently solving the problem pf having a sharp bend in the supplied short flex by making a short hard line coming off the caliper then adapting it to the short flex. The way the instructions from the kit have it the short flex has to be bent 175 degrees.
I will post a pic when it is done. _________________ Licensed Automotive Service Technician
Licensed Truck and Coach Technician
Licensed Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
CFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation license
Alignment specialist
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
Current projects:
Built for others:69 Manx Clone |
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fozzymark Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2008 Posts: 22 Location: st. petersburg florida
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:39 am Post subject: empi disc brakes |
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just finished my disc with e-brake conversion the supplied hose is to short (every kit from empi seems to be missing something or other to complete it fronts need to be drilled for speedo cable no seals in kit Etc. )
I went with 12"braided steel brake line to jump from the connecting point to the caliper no problems |
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vw (o\!/o) nut Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2006 Posts: 855 Location: Wisconsin - Where the men are men and the sheep are nervous.
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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dan macmillan wrote: |
Glasser wrote: |
I've never mounted disc's with e brake so not sure what to do with that but something that may be of concern is the bleeder valves for bleeding the system. If not at the highest point you may not get all the air out....... "may" is the key word. I should think that they should be mounted so as the bleeder is always on the top. Can the caliper be mounted in both locations with the bleeder on the top? If yes no worries your back to your original question. If no then this helps you make your decision on how they be installed. |
I managed to post the stupid question of the day. There is no room to mount the caliper on the front side of the axle. The caliper must go on the back side of the axle. As for the bleeder reply. The bleeder does have to be at the top but this could have been accomplished by swapping calipers side to side. I am currently solving the problem pf having a sharp bend in the supplied short flex by making a short hard line coming off the caliper then adapting it to the short flex. The way the instructions from the kit have it the short flex has to be bent 175 degrees.
I will post a pic when it is done. |
Dan,
We experienced the same issue with our mid-engine build.
We eliminated the sharp bend by using a banjo fitting.
If you're interested in the details, let us know, and we'll post some pix. _________________ "Curiosity killed the cat, but for a while I was a prime suspect." |
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dan macmillan Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2003 Posts: 3110 Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:09 am Post subject: |
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vw (o\!/o) nut wrote: |
dan macmillan wrote: |
Glasser wrote: |
I've never mounted disc's with e brake so not sure what to do with that but something that may be of concern is the bleeder valves for bleeding the system. If not at the highest point you may not get all the air out....... "may" is the key word. I should think that they should be mounted so as the bleeder is always on the top. Can the caliper be mounted in both locations with the bleeder on the top? If yes no worries your back to your original question. If no then this helps you make your decision on how they be installed. |
I managed to post the stupid question of the day. There is no room to mount the caliper on the front side of the axle. The caliper must go on the back side of the axle. As for the bleeder reply. The bleeder does have to be at the top but this could have been accomplished by swapping calipers side to side. I am currently solving the problem pf having a sharp bend in the supplied short flex by making a short hard line coming off the caliper then adapting it to the short flex. The way the instructions from the kit have it the short flex has to be bent 175 degrees.
I will post a pic when it is done. |
Dan,
We experienced the same issue with our mid-engine build.
We eliminated the sharp bend by using a banjo fitting.
If you're interested in the details, let us know, and we'll post some pix. |
Please post what you used and part numbers if possible _________________ Licensed Automotive Service Technician
Licensed Truck and Coach Technician
Licensed Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
CFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation license
Alignment specialist
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
Current projects:
Built for others:69 Manx Clone |
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vw (o\!/o) nut Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2006 Posts: 855 Location: Wisconsin - Where the men are men and the sheep are nervous.
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Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:32 pm Post subject: |
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vw (o\!/o) nut wrote: |
Dan,
We experienced the same issue with our mid-engine build.
We eliminated the sharp bend by using a banjo fitting.
If you're interested in the details, let us know, and we'll post some pix. |
dan macmillan wrote: |
Please post what you used and part numbers if possible. |
I'm almost certain that the same caliper is used on either swing or IRS.
So here's the way we made it work.
As you can see, the only parts that you will need are...
a banjo fitting - drag specialties 35degree # DS098150 (these are available in various angles)
(those motorcycle dudes have lots of kewl tidbits).
a brake hose bolt - dorman # 13940 (late model GM, avilable at your FLAPS)
and also an 3/16" / 10mm adaptor - edelman # 276000 (again, your FLAPS)
And this is the end result
If you have any ?s, let me know.
Neil _________________ "Curiosity killed the cat, but for a while I was a prime suspect." |
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cooperhilscher Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2008 Posts: 10 Location: CA
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Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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Wow, that looks good, how big of a problem can that bend be? I am having serious problems with my rear disk brake kit... How do you adjust the pads? when I put them on the rotor they are wayyyy too tight and it just scrapes... I dont understand how they physically back off the rotor when you take your foot off the pedal, theres no springs or anything... |
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bob cook Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2006 Posts: 650
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Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 5:18 am Post subject: rear disk |
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whenI did mine on a IRS with e brake had the same problem 1 side of pads were rubbing real hard checked everything twice ended up having to put a washer between caliper and mount to center caliper I believe this is caused by empi"s strict qaulity control !!!! |
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didget69 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2004 Posts: 4927 Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 6:53 am Post subject: Re: rear disk |
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bob cook wrote: |
whenI did mine on a IRS with e brake had the same problem 1 side of pads were rubbing real hard checked everything twice ended up having to put a washer between caliper and mount to center caliper I believe this is caused by empi"s strict qaulity control !!!! |
Oh no Bob.... PLEASE tell me you didn't say the above statement about EMPI!!
Great - now you've released the really bad cosmic juju from your brake parts... you just HAD to use the words "EMPI" and "quality control" in the same sentence!
The only known cure for stabilizing the karma in your ride now is that you MUST walk, no - RUN - to the nearest Beetle, pull the 4-way flasher knob to let the lights flash for 3 minutes while you run around the car with your hands in the air, proclaiming "EMPI makes great s***!! EMPI makes great s***!!
Okay - back to my meds now - why didn't someone warm me about the brown acid?
Did EMPI send any shims or washers with the kit, or did you have to cobble something together to center the caliper on the rotor?
bnc _________________ I never found the need to impress people with any mechanic certifications, trophies or track wins... unless it was for Mom to post on the refrigerator door. |
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dan macmillan Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2003 Posts: 3110 Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 11:02 am Post subject: |
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cooperhilscher wrote: |
Wow, that looks good, how big of a problem can that bend be? I am having serious problems with my rear disk brake kit... How do you adjust the pads? when I put them on the rotor they are wayyyy too tight and it just scrapes... I dont understand how they physically back off the rotor when you take your foot off the pedal, theres no springs or anything... |
The bend can be very serious. It is needed to alow the flex hose to move as the pads wear and the caliper slides. if too tight then the fluid is trapped and the brakes will either not apply or not release.
Are they scraping with the pads removed?
The kit comes with a thin washer that goes on first. I will call it the O ring sealing washer/bearing thrust washer.
If you fail to remove the old one and just add the new one it will set the rotor out too far and the rotor will hit the caliper support bracket.
I recommend just to reuse the original washer as it is better quality than the one supplied with the kit. Also make sure the spring on the top of the pads is not jammed in the slot in the caliper.
As for adjusting the pads and what retracts them.
The pads are self adjusting. Each time you press the pedal they contact the rotor. The retraction is accomplished by two things. Firstly no rotor is 100% true. The runout actually hits the pads and taps them back. The other is the square cut seal inside the caliper deforms on brake application and when released pulls the piston back in. For sake of argument the pads are always in contact with the rotor there is just no pressure applied
The pads and calipers should also be lubricated with a product such as neverseize at the points indicated. DO NOT LUBRICATE THE BRAKING SURFACE OF THE PAD WITH NEVERSIEZE.
There is another product that is used on the pad and rotor surface called Brake-in made by Kleen flo
but this should only be used on problen squeals
By the nature of the way disk brakes are designed...they squeal. This is a result of vibrations set up by the fact that the pads are perpendicular to the rotor surface. To combat this all metal to metal contact points should be lubricated. This also extends the life and performance of your brakes.
I have tried many kinds of brake lubricants and find that neversieze lasts the longest.
Where the pads contact the caliper supports, where the springs contact the calipers and inside where the caliper slide pins ride need lubrication.
LUBRICATION POINTS
A product such as
should be applied to the backs of the pads, the steel side. It is used to help control brake squeeling.Also make sure that the steel backing of the pad does not contact the rotor. Yes they can be installed backwards. I have seen it done and it is an expensive mistake. DO NOT APPLY TO THE BRAKING SURFACE OF THE PADS
Caution Do not expect to have 100% braking immediately. The pads must be bedded in. The glues and bonding agents in the pads are not fully cured and will be after the first few stops if not overheated.
Take the car out on a deserted road and drive at about 40 mph. Then every 100 yards or so, apply the brakes and slow it down to 20 mph, then slowly speed back up to 40 again. After doing that a handful of times, you can start to feel the pedal position and stopping power improving dramatically. TAKE YOUR TIME LET THEM COOL BEFORE THE NEXT STOP. And it never takes more than a few miles to completely break in new pads. If you hammer the brakes right from the stop the heat generated will ruin the pads and they will never stop right. _________________ Licensed Automotive Service Technician
Licensed Truck and Coach Technician
Licensed Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
CFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation license
Alignment specialist
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
Current projects:
Built for others:69 Manx Clone |
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cooperhilscher Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2008 Posts: 10 Location: CA
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Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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awesome, Thanks guys, I will definitely try all this out. Post again soon |
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eastcoastconversions Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2006 Posts: 205
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Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 3:06 am Post subject: |
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[quote="vw (o\!/o) nut"]
vw (o\!/o) nut wrote: |
And this is the end result
If you have any ?s, let me know.
Neil |
Neil,
How did you make this work? The brake hose is running towards the wheel if you set it up like this picture.
Jeff...... |
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vw (o\!/o) nut Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2006 Posts: 855 Location: Wisconsin - Where the men are men and the sheep are nervous.
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Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:51 am Post subject: |
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eastcoastconversions wrote: |
Neil,
How did you make this work? The brake hose is running towards the wheel if you set it up like this picture.
Jeff...... |
My bad, Jeff. We've got some high-temp paint on the calipers now and...
this is the proper mounting position.
_________________ "Curiosity killed the cat, but for a while I was a prime suspect." |
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dune limo Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2007 Posts: 125 Location: Australia
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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 2:31 am Post subject: |
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dan macmillan wrote: |
Glasser wrote: |
I've never mounted disc's with e brake so not sure what to do with that but something that may be of concern is the bleeder valves for bleeding the system. If not at the highest point you may not get all the air out....... "may" is the key word. I should think that they should be mounted so as the bleeder is always on the top. Can the caliper be mounted in both locations with the bleeder on the top? If yes no worries your back to your original question. If no then this helps you make your decision on how they be installed. |
I managed to post the stupid question of the day. There is no room to mount the caliper on the front side of the axle. The caliper must go on the back side of the axle. As for the bleeder reply. The bleeder does have to be at the top but this could have been accomplished by swapping calipers side to side. I am currently solving the problem pf having a sharp bend in the supplied short flex by making a short hard line coming off the caliper then adapting it to the short flex. The way the instructions from the kit have it the short flex has to be bent 175 degrees.
I will post a pic when it is done. |
Here is a pic of a rear line from a VW caliper ---useing a hard line and a soft line seem's to be the proper way of doing it, putting a tight bend into a soft line is not good
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kumatiger Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2008 Posts: 117 Location: Manchester, NH, USA
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Posted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 9:46 pm Post subject: Fittings & Lines |
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I'm half way through the same kit install on my buggy and ran into some issues with the brake fittings. The EMPI kit supplies an adapter to go from the caliper to your regular 10mmx1 balloon flare lines and the instructions say to re-use your old hard line.
Well I have some problems with the "adapter" they ship in the kit. The caliper is machined with a 10mmx1.25 thread opening for the fluid inlet and if you look in this photo they machined banjo bolt crush washer grooves around the fitting inlet. (apologies for the orange overspray in the groovy photo)
Here's a picture of the adapter with a 3/8" crush washer on it (the 10mm one was even looser). There is hardly any sealing surface on the adapter and it actually is chamfered up and away from the edge where the washer sits.
In the first photo you can sort of make out the bottom of the bore as a tapered seat from the drill bit. I don't know if its 37 or 45 degrees or something else. The adapter included with the kit does not look like it would seal against that bottom surface and it does not look like it would seal against the banjo fitting rings. The adapter bottom actually has what looks like a reverse flare feature on its end.
So it doesn't look like the banjo surface will seal and it doesn't look like its even long enough to bottom out in the caliper bore. Assume for a moment that you do get it installed and get it to seal. The next part they include is the flex line adapter to allow the caliper to float. Its supposed to go into this caliper adapter, which is now a standard 10mmx1 balloon flare.
Here's what the end of the adapter hose looks like. It doesn't quite have a balloon flare and the machined surfaces on the end are full of ridges so I'm not sure if the taper would seat properly against the bottom of the adapter or not.
So assume you got that one to seal leak free somehow - here's what's waiting for you in the other end of the adapter. The threads are full of burs and chips which are waiting for you to shear them off with your brand new brake fittings. Who knows if they'll stay put or if they'll get washed downsteam into your new caliper and eat the seals. I tried to get a good picture with the sun lighting it up but its hard to get the camera to focus down there. The shadow you see at the bottom of the bore is the shadow of the bur - its actually looped shaped.
Thanks to some very helpful posts by vw (o\!/o) nut with some part numbers I got some banjo fittings from some local parts places and I've started assembling a banjo based system. The banjo fitting looks very different from what EMPI supplied in terms of sealing surface. Its obvious this caliper was made to use crush washers and the banjo bolt head matches it perfectly. (adapter on left banjo on right)
The banjo bolt has a nice shoulder to center the crush washer that the adapter does not have and you can see the gaps between the two are very different.
Empi:
Banjo:
Here's the banjo to AN3 fitting installed. If you go this route you'll need to get back from AN3 to 10mm x 1. The scary part is that AN3 is 3/8x24 which threads into 10mm x 1 fittings just fine, but very loosely. The AN fitting is about 0.020" too small and I doubt the tapers would match up and seal properly either. I'm going to either get a fully custom hose with banjo on one end and 10mm x 1 on the other or get some AN3 female to female pre-made hoses and just adapt back to 10mm x 1 on the other end.
So all of you who have your EMPI rear brakes plumbed in - did you get the same adapter I did or did you get something different? I see no possible way this kit would work out of the box - it will never seal properly and I'd be afraid to use it. I'm sure it would work great with banjo fittings and you might even get a 10mm x 1.25 balloon flare to seal in that caliper but I see no possible way the kit supplied parts can make a reliable seal.
Andy
(shopping for hoses online in another window as I type this) |
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BL3Manx Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2006 Posts: 6767 Location: Northern California
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Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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I just installed a set of these on an IRS buggy yesterday. They initially leaked where the hardline connected to the supplied flex line and where the flex line connected to the adapter fitting in the caliper. However, I was able to tighten the connections hard enough without stripping anything, to stop the leaks.
The biggest problem I had was section of the caliper which supports the pads, touched the rotor on its back face and damaged it. I had to grind down the caliper at two points to clear the rotor. |
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dune limo Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2007 Posts: 125 Location: Australia
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Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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''I'm half way through the same kit install on my buggy and ran into some issues with the brake fittings. The EMPI kit supplies an adapter to go from the caliper to your regular 10mmx1 balloon flare lines and the instructions say to re-use your old hard line.
Well I have some problems with the "adapter" they ship in the kit. The caliper is machined with a 10mmx1.25 thread opening for the fluid inlet and if you look in this photo they machined banjo bolt crush washer grooves around the fitting inlet. (apologies for the orange overspray in the groovy photo)''
I got over this problem by getting some nipples made up for the caliper to take a hard line (I could not purchase ANY for the pitch size) make some nice tight bends, then put a nipple on the hard line and connect to what ever soft line you you are going to use. |
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dan macmillan Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2003 Posts: 3110 Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:21 am Post subject: |
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dune limo wrote: |
''I'm half way through the same kit install on my buggy and ran into some issues with the brake fittings. The EMPI kit supplies an adapter to go from the caliper to your regular 10mmx1 balloon flare lines and the instructions say to re-use your old hard line.
Well I have some problems with the "adapter" they ship in the kit. The caliper is machined with a 10mmx1.25 thread opening for the fluid inlet and if you look in this photo they machined banjo bolt crush washer grooves around the fitting inlet. (apologies for the orange overspray in the groovy photo)''
I got over this problem by getting some nipples made up for the caliper to take a hard line (I could not purchase ANY for the pitch size) make some nice tight bends, then put a nipple on the hard line and connect to what ever soft line you you are going to use. |
Please do not say you used something like this
BRAKE SYSTEMS RUN EXTREMELY HIGH PRESSURES 1500 TO 2000 PSI
These fittings are ILLEGAL for use on brakes. If you get in an accident (your fault or not) The legal system will crucify you. _________________ Licensed Automotive Service Technician
Licensed Truck and Coach Technician
Licensed Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
CFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation license
Alignment specialist
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
Current projects:
Built for others:69 Manx Clone |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2003 Posts: 593 Location: Florida Space Coast
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