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Anyone ever turn a solid roof vanagon into a pop top?
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fairweather
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think converting a 7 pass. syncro to a camper is the way to go. After I cut out the roof and installed the poptop (probably 20hrs labor) I stepped back and axed myself "Now why didn't I just leave it alone?" I started with a passenger van because I don't want most of the stuff in a westie, the only permanent fixture is the vitrifrigio for access to cold beer and drinks after a long day of riding or spring skiing. All the other camping stuff fits into a dry box that I also take on river trips. Save that money and put bigger wheels and tires on it, then a TDI, then some Recaros, then .....
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, thanks for the plug...

As stated, I sell CHC tops brand new, for about $2K. No welding, just cutting a hole in the "sunroof space" between the B and C pillars, 42" square.
The baseplate of the top assembly has a flanged 42" opening, which drops into the van interior, while the base gets screwed to the roof sheetmetal. Then you cut and trim the headliner, glue it to the edges to the flange, and cover up the edges with trim pieces. Nice, finished look. The baseplate forms your sleeper platform, and anchors the bottom of the tent, along with the scissor arms and tracks.
An oak wood frame forms the inner ceiling, topped with 1/4" plywood, and finished in your choice of headliner, birch veneer, Mexican blanket, or whatever you want to look at when you're laying down...
The wood frame anchors the top of the tent, scissor arms, and gets the outer Fiberglass fairing attached via L-brackets. The top is secured closed with metal pull latches, like on a Jeep hood. The latch screws go through the base flange, and into the roof crossmembers for extra-sturdy top stowing.
The tent has 2 full-length side screen windows with storm flaps, and a front screen window/flap that also zips out for access to the roof; CHC used to put a luggage rack there, similar to the Westy setup.

The whole shebang weighs about 250 lbs. and installs in a weekend, you just need a drill, metal saw, and basic handtools. A friend comes in handy lifting the top up onto the van, otherwise it's a one-person job.

Vans with A/C ducting in the middle get the duct terminated at the rear of the roof opening, like a Westy. The front overhead get taken out, or you can modify it into shelving, CB mount, etc.

If you're interested, p-mail me, I will send you a DVD copy of the video that CHC made for me when I bought the molds, detailing the construction and installation of the top. Camcorder production values, but good information. $5 paypal to [email protected]

See the CHC website for pictures, here's my own van;

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I don't do installations, I'm working out of a small garage in Queens, NY...it's really very simple, if you have basic mechanical skills, you can do this. A shop would most likely charge 8-10 hrs of labor if you take it somewhere for installation.

Shipping is via Forward Air www.forwardair.com to the depot nearest to you. West coast costs a little over $250, including crating & handling (van rental), but that has probably gone up since the last time I did one Rolling Eyes

Jerry McCavitt
(917)513-8070
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backroadsurfer
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Jerry,
that looks great! Lots of people are going to be very happy about this!!! So you are saying that you can sleep up top?

I am one of those guys that prides myself on setting up my tent so taught I bounce change off of it. Is that as taught as the tent will get? Seems like it might flap in heavy winds.

Thanks for posting this and for the work you are doing!!!
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The top bunk is for kids, unless you (or I) make a platform to close up the opening. You can see the lip at the edge of the hole in the photos that supports a platform.

The tent was not real taught in those shots, although the elastic gathers at the corners make it look loose as well. These are to pull the tent inside when the top closes.
I keep my spring tension at a neutral force, easiest to open and close, and stop anywhere. If you tighten the turnbuckle, the top will travel to its max opening, which is limited by the height of the tent, keeping it taught. You just have to pull harder to get it back down.

Jerry
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Steelhead
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

backroadsurfer wrote:
I am one of those guys that prides myself on setting up my tent so taught I bounce change off of it. Is that as taught as the tent will get? Seems like it might flap in heavy winds.


I wondered about this too. This is basically as taut as it gets, but appearances can be deceiving. I tested mine recently at a super windy norcal beach and it didn't flap at all. Its tighter than it looks because its gathered....and my tent material is lighter than whats on Jerry's van (Jerry - I forgot to send you this pic, your guys in seattle did it in a lightweight waterproof ripstop, different than the naugahyde). Because I rehabbed an old (early) top, the new tent was actually a little large, so I gathered it in the back a couple inches.
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job! Heh...Stormtrooper is right. Very Happy
Interesting about the tent, they didn't say anything to me about changing fabrics. I'm going to take mine and bring it around to local fabric shops, those guys are charging an arm & a left nut for those tents.

Jerry
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Murman
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:27 am    Post subject: country homes poptop Reply with quote

i live in San Jose and country homes used to be in Scottsvalley. My dad bought a camper new from these guys in 78 and i later put in a bunch of time driving it to mtn bike races. you could sleep 2 adults up top. there was a board with foam and fake leather upolstry. this piece spanned the width of the top and covered the roof opening about half way. when not in sleep position it was stowed in the clamshell of the poptop.
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Grizzly_black
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the progress on my Syncro "Pop-Top" conversion. The body shop is doing an incredible job! I honestly can't tell the top has been converted. It looks identical to the factory. This shop specializes in original and custom restores so this was cake work for them. I wouldn't advise any with out some auto body experience to attempt it though! Laughing

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The paint is the original "Marine Blue" from the late '80s

I have been working on this through the entire process. I is a s@%$ ton of Work!

I will post more photos when it is finished

Cheers!
Grizz[/img]
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goffoz
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I harvested the poptop for my camper syncro project, I simply cut the donor roof off, complete, at the pillars about 6" below the gutters.
........removed all the glass first Rolling Eyes
Anyhow, I'm thinking "wouldn't it be easier to weld the donor roof on, at the pillars Confused ...rather than the methods shown so far?
If I clean up the cuts...and maybe fab some sort of insert for aligment, or do "V"ed or angleed cuts so they self align Confused
.....then weld...just a thought
Any reason why not?....I've never done this
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Steelhead
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

goffoz wrote:
When I harvested the poptop for my camper syncro project, I simply cut the donor roof off, complete, at the pillars about 6" below the gutters.
........removed all the glass first Rolling Eyes
Anyhow, I'm thinking "wouldn't it be easier to weld the donor roof on, at the pillars Confused ...rather than the methods shown so far?
If I clean up the cuts...and maybe fab some sort of insert for aligment, or do "V"ed or angleed cuts so they self align Confused
.....then weld...just a thought
Any reason why not?....I've never done this


your way works. If you search around a bit you will find that it is even the favored solution for a lot of people. There's more than one way to skin a cat (gross expression), so it really depends on whether you like to work in broad strokes or in technical details. Construction vs. engineering. Most of the bodyshop guys I talked to advocate your approach.
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Last edited by Steelhead on Thu May 29, 2008 11:12 am; edited 1 time in total
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, it is one of the easiest way to change the roof, the entire roof structure.. let me highlight 'STRUCTURE' the door & window posts (pillars, pillars hold up stuff) are multi layered 'laminate' steel construction and if you cut a smooth line, then just weld the surface back together, they will not retain any of the structural integrity of a multilayered 'shear' or 'deformation plane' features.
in the event of a roll over, or the more common tree falling on them Shocked the material will crumple, tweak and move exactly where the smoothline interuption of layers is.
the best method is to drill the spots and transfer the roof 'skin' which does retain the camper portions and the underlaying structure.
do some web searches. there is a WELL DETAILED website out there documenting this method and the processes.



Steelhead wrote:
goffoz wrote:
When I harvested the poptop for my camper syncro project, I simply cut the donor roof off, complete, at the pillars about 6" below the gutters.
........removed all the glass first Rolling Eyes
Anyhow, I'm thinking "wouldn't it be easier to weld the donor roof on, at the pillars Confused ...rather than the methods shown so far?
If I clean up the cuts...and maybe fab some sort of insert for aligment, or do "V"ed or angleed cuts so they self align Confused
.....then weld...just a thought
Any reason why not?....I've never done this


you're way works. If you search around a bit you will find that it is even the favored solution for a lot of people. There's more than one way to skin a cat (gross expression), so it really depends on whether you like to work in broad strokes or in technical details. Construction vs. engineering. Most of the bodyshop guys I talked to advocate your approach.

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Grizzly_black
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do not think that method is a good idea!!!!

The auto body shop that is doing most of the work for me said that it is not legal for him to do that to a vehicle. When he replaces panels and such he wants the original structure to be intact. I am not an expert but I know this guy is so I trust what he says.

Grizz
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goffoz
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good thoughts
....Like I said...I know nothing ...was just pondering the idea
thanks
Smile
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redcanoe
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm intrigued by this approach. Thanks for the photos guys. Have any of you had any experience with the mountings for a Yakima or Thule roof rack on the CHC top? I'm guessing that raising the roof straight up with gear on board would be somewhat tougher than hinging the westy poptop open.
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TRADESIZE
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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

look link to repro mosaic joker bed system meaning you dont need to butcher your roof to make the westy bed system work wehn installing a westy pop top:

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26942
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Steelhead
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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

redcanoe wrote:
I'm intrigued by this approach. Thanks for the photos guys. Have any of you had any experience with the mountings for a Yakima or Thule roof rack on the CHC top? I'm guessing that raising the roof straight up with gear on board would be somewhat tougher than hinging the westy poptop open.


my older roof shell is ABS (plastic), and wouldn't support a rack well. It's very light. I've never seen or played with the newer plexi versions, which would be stiffer and might be able to handle it, though you would have to beef up the springs. If I were to need to rack on top, I would use a gutter mount with high risers. Not convienent for popping the top, unless I could engineer a cool way of hinge/release one end of the rack and swinging it over the roof when camping.
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odell
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:03 pm    Post subject: Converting to a westy top ... Reply with quote

Sorry if someone has already asked the question but can you put a westy pop top on a camper that has a Riviera style pop top?

Also Grizz where did you find your donor top?

Would it be possible for someone to post some picture of a a westy bunk? All the picture I have ever seen have the roof raised with the area open so I don't really 'see' how somebody could sleep up there. Thanks

B
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Grizzly_black
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pop top donor came from my '85 Westfalia that was too far gone from San Fransisco salty fog. Here is a photo of the finished exterior. I still have much to do. Next is the TDI install and then the interior.

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Grizz
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macjack
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:44 pm    Post subject: what about an original sunroof van? Reply with quote

Grizzley Black- that is looking super nice. your work is really paying off.
BTW, I can fully reccommend the TDI conversion Very Happy
My question to the CHC seller and others: what if I am using a vanagon with an original sunroof? Can I retain the sunroof and put in the pop-top using the existing opening?
thanks,
-macjack
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Steelhead
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 7:58 pm    Post subject: Re: what about an original sunroof van? Reply with quote

MacAndrew Jack wrote:
Grizzley Black- that is looking super nice. your work is really paying off.
BTW, I can fully reccommend the TDI conversion Very Happy
My question to the CHC seller and others: what if I am using a vanagon with an original sunroof? Can I retain the sunroof and put in the pop-top using the existing opening?
thanks,
-macjack


Maybe.
A couple issues:
1. the screws that screw the base in might conflict with sunroof system. Maybe just use short screws.
2. The base (the part that rests on the roof and is screwed into the roof) might need to be modified to fit. The base has a lip that hangs down into the opening (joins with headliner). This would need to be removed so the base sits entirely outside the van.
3. The anchors/handles that hold the top down would need something to grab onto. I'm sure something (hooks) could be fabricated, but they need to be tied onto the beams (not the sheet metal). Maybe the gutters. These would need to be outside clamps, which is less convienent, and structurally more challenging as they will need to attach to the top (as opposed to the ceiling which is currently anchored straight down to a cross beam). This is the biggest issue.
Pluses of your idea:
1. the roof would seal up, etc. (though CHC tops don't create interior wind noise, or leak)
2. Safer in a rollover situation.

Minuses:
1. you lose the sunroof! I love my sunroof bus. Much better to do this to a tin-top that doesn't have a sunroof.
2. I love the bonus headroom created by the top when it is in the down position...it makes a big difference when moving around in the van. You wouldn't get this benefit if you were keeping your sunroof closed when the top was down.
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