Hoping to borrow a part this weekend

[[email protected]]

I've also posted this to the WetWesties group (I'm getting desparate):

I'm on the verge of selling my camper van. I've put a lot of work and
money into it and I still do not have a van that will do 55 on the
highway. I suspect the fuel injection and am down to the AFM or the
pressure regulator.

I'm not going to be able to sell it for much or get much as a trade-
in as it is. I'm also not able to spend the money on new parts
without knowing that they are faulty. I can probably find a used fuel
pressure regulator, but the AFM is a bit more spendy.

I'm located in Bend, OR and I'm wondering if there is anyone out
there who would let me take their working AFM for a 5 minute drive to
see if mine is bad. I wouldn't touch the lid or anything else, just
drop it in and take it out again. Really, it might save me from
having to trade-in this vehicle for next to nothing tomorrow or
Monday morning.

If you are in the Bend area, or know someone who would be willing to
help, I could really use the favor. Like I said, I don't have a lot
of money for this stuff, but I'll be happy to pay $10 to rent
someone's AFM for about 5 minutes.

Thanks,

Hans

[[email protected]]

Ooops, it's an '81.

Thanks,

Hans

[bljones]

hans, i have a spare parts engine from an 80 vanagon- if you need F.I. parts, send me an e-mail and i will fire off what you need, cheap cheap.

[ratwell]

This is a long shot but tighten the accelerator cable at the throttle body. If the cable isn't taut then you'll never hit top speed.

[[email protected]]

Thanks guys. Vern from the WetWesties group was nice enough to let me try an AFM he has. No change Rat, the accel. cable was off by a bit a while ago but I eliminated it from the running already. Thanks.

I'm going to revive my other thread with new info. though.

Hans

[ratwell]

I just read all the messages in that other thread and it's amazing how it went from no power to add transaxle fluid. Let me correct a few comments:

* Dwell

If your dwell is reading 22 it's probably because the dwell meter is set to read an 8 cylinder engine. If there are no settings read the manual to find out how to interpret the results. If it does have a 4 cyl mode and it's still reading 22 degrees then the ignition system is messed up and you'll never get power at higher rpms because there isn't enough time to build up spark energy in the coil. See the wiring comment below before drawing this conclusion.

Dwell needs to be right on 50 degrees to get the most power out of points. 44-58 is too loose a spec from VW. I've tested a bunch of settings with new points and 50 is when the most power is made. No debate.

Electronic iginition gives a value near 50, say 54 degrees. That's the way it's supposed to work so don't worry.

* RPM and Dwell

If you have the 79 CA model with electronic ignition then Bentley says never hook up a tach/dwell meter to the coil directly. See Page 79 of Engine and Clutch for wiring instructions.

* Coils

211 905 115B or 211 905 115C can be used with that ignition system. Other coils cannot be connected.

* Rotors

The rev limiting rotors are rated at 5400rpm and have a spring on top that shorts out the rotor at the rated rpm. If the spring breaks it will short out at any rpm. If the spring is jammed then it will continue to work through the rpm range like a normal rotor.

* Pressure regulators

You can't tell a pressure regulator is worn by it's "elderly" look. The devel valve and pressure regulator were cadmium plated to resist corrosion and when it wears off they look old but they can still work perfectly on the inside. The true test is to hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel line that can go to 40psi or more and see if it's 35 psi with the vacuum hose disconnected and 28 psi with.

* Your goofy mechanic

Advancing the timing to raise the idle to compensate for low vacuum is the sign of an incompetent mechanic.

Attach a vacuum gauge to see if you are getting at good vacuum. 16-18" at idle of 875rpm. If not you have air leaks and need to fix them.

So what now?

The absolute first test that should have ben performed was a check of the fuel pump and pressure regulator. Once you rule them out, you can rule out the distributor and then start diagnosing the rest of the FI systemor mechanicals for the problem.

Disconnect the fuel pump from the 3/4 fuel rail and attach a hose that runs into a bucket. Remove the air cleaner and with the key on, deflect the flap in the AFM to activate the pump for 30 seconds. At the end of the test you should have 3/4 - 1 litre of fuel in the bucket. If you have substantially less then you have a tired pump and you'll never get past 55mph.

[ratwell]

I should add that a clogged fuel filter has to be ruled out before the pump can be labelled as the culprit.