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charlie1volksnut Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2006 Posts: 4
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Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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To get the hands off of the clock, you need a puller. The puller pushes a small shaft down the center of the hand and pushes against the shaft of the clock. I have a pinion gear puller that was purchased at my local hobby shop that does the job very nicely.
Here is a link to a distributor:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=GWSGPMICRO |
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BUGSTUFF Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2004 Posts: 526 Location: Bartlett, IL
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Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks to Anchovy's post and pictures, I got my $10 swap meet find up and running!!! I was initially afraid that I was going to have to let an expert fix the clock, but instead, the posts in this forum were a huge help.
I used Radio Shack "Tuner Control Cleaner & Lubricant" to clean up the innards. Hooked up to a 9v battery and the clock works like a charm. Can't wait to get it installed.
Thanks again!!!
Just out of curiosity, the fuseable link is obviously a very common problem - what exactly causes them to blow so often? It would seem to me that it would take a pretty significant power surge to melt the solder. _________________ Kirk
Northeast IL VW Association - www.nivaclub.org
www.facebook.com/nivaclub
Volkswagen Club of America - www.vwclub.org |
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chabanais Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2002 Posts: 4866
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Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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Aren't they 12 volt?
Shit happens with electrical surges. Just put an inline fuse in there and you should be good.
BUGSTUFF wrote: |
I used Radio Shack "Tuner Control Cleaner & Lubricant" to clean up the innards. Hooked up to a 9v battery and the clock works like a charm. Can't wait to get it installed.
Thanks again!!!
Just out of curiosity, the fuseable link is obviously a very common problem - what exactly causes them to blow so often? It would seem to me that it would take a pretty significant power surge to melt the solder. |
_________________ "I spud therefore I yam." |
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BUGSTUFF Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2004 Posts: 526 Location: Bartlett, IL
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chabanais Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2002 Posts: 4866
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Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:59 am Post subject: |
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I don't remember but like 4 maybe?
BUGSTUFF wrote: |
Suggested amperage for the aforementioned inline fuse? |
_________________ "I spud therefore I yam." |
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bcampagnolo Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2011 Posts: 165 Location: United States
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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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I have a new (to me) '67 that I'd like to take out my clock and go through this posting / repair process.
I can't for the life of me:
1. figure out what tool is required to actually remove the two nuts from the clock. Are they just knurled nuts? Does anyone have a trick for using something other than two fingers to remove them?
2. figure out the right wiring scheme. The clock lights up and appears to have two wires connected to the same terminal on the clock. The other terminal is not connected. I have downloaded the JPG wiring diagram. Is the clock K7 (looks like a .5 wire)?
Thanks!
Paul |
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chabanais Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2002 Posts: 4866
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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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You can use a small wrench to take the nuts off.
It's been a while since I last cracked a clock open but there if the connection is fried one of the wires will be broken off the terminal. Re-solder it.
You have a photo? _________________ "I spud therefore I yam." |
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bcampagnolo Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2011 Posts: 165 Location: United States
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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:39 pm Post subject: |
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I'll see if I can get a camera back there. I tried pliers, but had no luck.
Something like a 12+ point socket, or super tiny crescent wrench? It feels like they are not hex-sided or normal nuts. . .
The parcel tray on the bus seems to get in the way, and there's a bracket right there near the speaker.
I'll remove the tray and see if I can get under there a bit better.
'67 Deluxe walkthrough 13 window |
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dasdachshund Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2010 Posts: 728 Location: Vancouver, WA USA
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Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:48 am Post subject: |
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BUGSTUFF wrote: |
.......Just out of curiosity, the fuseable link is obviously a very common problem - what exactly causes them to blow so often? It would seem to me that it would take a pretty significant power surge to melt the solder. |
Let's see if I can explain it in less than 10 minutes....
In a nutshell, the "fusible link" is made out of a special, low temp solder. If the clock inards clog up and slow down, the electronics of the clock starts pulling more current to keep things going. It's this "extra" current your clock draws trying to rewind itself against the dirty insides that eventually will heat the low temp solder joint up over it's low melt point and ....presto!!! POP. No more connection.
Yeah, these clocks are supposed to have that plastic cover over the inards to keep the junk out but in Anchovey's post, you'll notice he said he sprayed the inards with contact cleaner and lots of junk came out. Obviously, junk gets in there from somewhere and clogs things up.
BTW, it's very, very easy to just solder the joint back up with a regular solder iron- but don't use regular solder on the joint, or the temp it takes to blow the joint again will go up considerably. (Maybe you don't care) Use a drop of flux and it'll take no more than a momentary touch with the iron and the joint will melt back together. I fixed my clock like this and it worked for a few days and stopped. But I didn't spray it with cleaner, gotta take it back out.
-dasdachshund
PS- aren't '67 buses splits? Don't think your clock will be the same as the one in Anchovey's posts, bcampagnolo. |
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bcampagnolo Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2011 Posts: 165 Location: United States
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Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:17 am Post subject: |
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Agreed, mine is a split window and a square clock (12V) with the dial adjustment on the front.
I'm thinking the clean / overhaul process will be the same. I also have seen the aircooled page with instructions that seem similar.
I'm still stuck on removal from the dash!
I'm hoping to find the fuse busted, fix that, add some oil, an in-line fuse and some luck.
Just have to get the little bugger out.
I wonder if the clock is EMP proof? |
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jaunio Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2007 Posts: 27
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Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:37 pm Post subject: clock hand removal |
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I have my VDO kienzle clock apart outta my 66 ghia and want to install a quartz movement from wal mart, I need to now remove the hands, looks like some sort of tiny spanner wrench loosens the notched nut the adjustment knob engages into. ? Gotta find an old watchshop/jeweler with a tool is my guess ,,, ?? I'm ready to cut the shafts to salvage the hands for my quartz movement from wal mart. |
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vw_mad Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2010 Posts: 3 Location: lincolnshire
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Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 1:32 pm Post subject: Clock now working but running slow?? |
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I have followed all the steps to get my clock working it out of a 69 early bay.
Had to replace the long spring that winds the clock as well.
But now the clock is ticking away it is running a minute or so slow over an hour is there any way of adjusting this??. |
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chabanais Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2002 Posts: 4866
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Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 4:16 pm Post subject: Re: Clock now working but running slow?? |
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I think there is something you can adjust on the back. The mechanical clock will run faster or slower depending upon the weather. I assume this is why VW went to Quartz.
There is, I suppose, a small degree of charm adjusting your clock because it's warmer out than it was when you set it.
Or you could probably find a later clock and swap movements.
vw_mad wrote: |
I have followed all the steps to get my clock working it out of a 69 early bay.
Had to replace the long spring that winds the clock as well.
But now the clock is ticking away it is running a minute or so slow over an hour is there any way of adjusting this??. |
_________________ "I spud therefore I yam." |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51152 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 6:00 pm Post subject: Re: Clock now working but running slow?? |
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vw_mad wrote: |
I have followed all the steps to get my clock working it out of a 69 early bay.
Had to replace the long spring that winds the clock as well.
But now the clock is ticking away it is running a minute or so slow over an hour is there any way of adjusting this??. |
Welcome,
As Chabanais mentions adjusting the early clocks is not by any means an exact science, I reset mine a few times each year, CW=slower, CCW=faster and use tiny movements of the small slotted screw behind the paper sticker, a degree seems to yield better than 30 minutes in 24 hours sometimes _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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fishslapper Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2012 Posts: 137 Location: ottawa ontario
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 12:12 pm Post subject: |
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Does anybody have a close up shot of the little spring and how it attaches to the little arm that is involved in moving the points ....?
I am trying to get my clock working. The fuseable link is blown and the spring is not connected to that arm.
Thanks in advance!!! _________________ 1968 L50f regatta blue notchback
The 7 "p"'s !!
Prior proper planning prevents piss poor performance. !! |
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hunza Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2009 Posts: 43 Location: Mississauga
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Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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I am facing the same problem i.e a dead clock out of a 71 bay. Only it is not a Kienzle but VDO so I did not find a fuseable link in there when i took the movement out of the casing. Can there be another reason for the VDO clock to stop working? I can post pictures if that helps. Any help would be appreciated. |
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fishslapper Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2012 Posts: 137 Location: ottawa ontario
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Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:24 am Post subject: |
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I almost guarantee that there should be a quarter inch long thin wire in there that is probably broken coming off the copper coil.
I got mine working, it just took some time to really look at it. Mine works like a champ now. I have to admit that i did not put low temp solder as the link i just used regular solder.
Post a picture and i will see if i can help. They are pretty simple now that i looked at it more... _________________ 1968 L50f regatta blue notchback
The 7 "p"'s !!
Prior proper planning prevents piss poor performance. !! |
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hunza Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2009 Posts: 43 Location: Mississauga
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Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:39 am Post subject: |
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the clock with just the glass removed[/url] |
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hunza Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2009 Posts: 43 Location: Mississauga
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Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:40 am Post subject: |
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the inside view |
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hunza Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2009 Posts: 43 Location: Mississauga
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Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:43 am Post subject: |
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another inside view..different angle |
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