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VDO Kienzle Clock repair
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charlie1volksnut
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To get the hands off of the clock, you need a puller. The puller pushes a small shaft down the center of the hand and pushes against the shaft of the clock. I have a pinion gear puller that was purchased at my local hobby shop that does the job very nicely.

Here is a link to a distributor:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=GWSGPMICRO
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BUGSTUFF
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to Anchovy's post and pictures, I got my $10 swap meet find up and running!!! I was initially afraid that I was going to have to let an expert fix the clock, but instead, the posts in this forum were a huge help.

I used Radio Shack "Tuner Control Cleaner & Lubricant" to clean up the innards. Hooked up to a 9v battery and the clock works like a charm. Can't wait to get it installed.

Thanks again!!!

Just out of curiosity, the fuseable link is obviously a very common problem - what exactly causes them to blow so often? It would seem to me that it would take a pretty significant power surge to melt the solder.
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chabanais
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aren't they 12 volt?

Shit happens with electrical surges. Just put an inline fuse in there and you should be good.


BUGSTUFF wrote:
I used Radio Shack "Tuner Control Cleaner & Lubricant" to clean up the innards. Hooked up to a 9v battery and the clock works like a charm. Can't wait to get it installed.

Thanks again!!!

Just out of curiosity, the fuseable link is obviously a very common problem - what exactly causes them to blow so often? It would seem to me that it would take a pretty significant power surge to melt the solder.

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BUGSTUFF
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suggested amperage for the aforementioned inline fuse?
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chabanais
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't remember but like 4 maybe?

BUGSTUFF wrote:
Suggested amperage for the aforementioned inline fuse?

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bcampagnolo
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a new (to me) '67 that I'd like to take out my clock and go through this posting / repair process.

I can't for the life of me:
1. figure out what tool is required to actually remove the two nuts from the clock. Are they just knurled nuts? Does anyone have a trick for using something other than two fingers to remove them?
2. figure out the right wiring scheme. The clock lights up and appears to have two wires connected to the same terminal on the clock. The other terminal is not connected. I have downloaded the JPG wiring diagram. Is the clock K7 (looks like a .5 wire)?

Thanks!
Paul
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chabanais
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can use a small wrench to take the nuts off.

It's been a while since I last cracked a clock open but there if the connection is fried one of the wires will be broken off the terminal. Re-solder it.

You have a photo?
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bcampagnolo
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll see if I can get a camera back there. I tried pliers, but had no luck.

Something like a 12+ point socket, or super tiny crescent wrench? It feels like they are not hex-sided or normal nuts. . .

The parcel tray on the bus seems to get in the way, and there's a bracket right there near the speaker.

I'll remove the tray and see if I can get under there a bit better.

'67 Deluxe walkthrough 13 window
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dasdachshund
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BUGSTUFF wrote:
.......Just out of curiosity, the fuseable link is obviously a very common problem - what exactly causes them to blow so often? It would seem to me that it would take a pretty significant power surge to melt the solder.


Let's see if I can explain it in less than 10 minutes....

In a nutshell, the "fusible link" is made out of a special, low temp solder. If the clock inards clog up and slow down, the electronics of the clock starts pulling more current to keep things going. It's this "extra" current your clock draws trying to rewind itself against the dirty insides that eventually will heat the low temp solder joint up over it's low melt point and ....presto!!! POP. No more connection.

Yeah, these clocks are supposed to have that plastic cover over the inards to keep the junk out but in Anchovey's post, you'll notice he said he sprayed the inards with contact cleaner and lots of junk came out. Obviously, junk gets in there from somewhere and clogs things up.

BTW, it's very, very easy to just solder the joint back up with a regular solder iron- but don't use regular solder on the joint, or the temp it takes to blow the joint again will go up considerably. (Maybe you don't care) Use a drop of flux and it'll take no more than a momentary touch with the iron and the joint will melt back together. I fixed my clock like this and it worked for a few days and stopped. But I didn't spray it with cleaner, gotta take it back out. Mad

-dasdachshund

PS- aren't '67 buses splits? Don't think your clock will be the same as the one in Anchovey's posts, bcampagnolo.
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bcampagnolo
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed, mine is a split window and a square clock (12V) with the dial adjustment on the front.

I'm thinking the clean / overhaul process will be the same. I also have seen the aircooled page with instructions that seem similar.

I'm still stuck on removal from the dash! Embarassed
I'm hoping to find the fuse busted, fix that, add some oil, an in-line fuse and some luck.
Just have to get the little bugger out.

I wonder if the clock is EMP proof?
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jaunio
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:37 pm    Post subject: clock hand removal Reply with quote

I have my VDO kienzle clock apart outta my 66 ghia and want to install a quartz movement from wal mart, I need to now remove the hands, looks like some sort of tiny spanner wrench loosens the notched nut the adjustment knob engages into. ? Gotta find an old watchshop/jeweler with a tool is my guess ,,, ?? I'm ready to cut the shafts to salvage the hands for my quartz movement from wal mart. Smile
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vw_mad
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 1:32 pm    Post subject: Clock now working but running slow?? Reply with quote

I have followed all the steps to get my clock working it out of a 69 early bay.
Had to replace the long spring that winds the clock as well.
But now the clock is ticking away it is running a minute or so slow over an hour is there any way of adjusting this??.
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chabanais
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 4:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Clock now working but running slow?? Reply with quote

I think there is something you can adjust on the back. The mechanical clock will run faster or slower depending upon the weather. I assume this is why VW went to Quartz.

There is, I suppose, a small degree of charm adjusting your clock because it's warmer out than it was when you set it.

Or you could probably find a later clock and swap movements.


vw_mad wrote:
I have followed all the steps to get my clock working it out of a 69 early bay.
Had to replace the long spring that winds the clock as well.
But now the clock is ticking away it is running a minute or so slow over an hour is there any way of adjusting this??.

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 6:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Clock now working but running slow?? Reply with quote

vw_mad wrote:
I have followed all the steps to get my clock working it out of a 69 early bay.
Had to replace the long spring that winds the clock as well.
But now the clock is ticking away it is running a minute or so slow over an hour is there any way of adjusting this??.

Welcome,
As Chabanais mentions adjusting the early clocks is not by any means an exact science, I reset mine a few times each year, CW=slower, CCW=faster and use tiny movements of the small slotted screw behind the paper sticker, a degree seems to yield better than 30 minutes in 24 hours sometimes Shocked Confused
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fishslapper
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anybody have a close up shot of the little spring and how it attaches to the little arm that is involved in moving the points ....?

I am trying to get my clock working. The fuseable link is blown and the spring is not connected to that arm.

Thanks in advance!!!
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hunza
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am facing the same problem i.e a dead clock out of a 71 bay. Only it is not a Kienzle but VDO so I did not find a fuseable link in there when i took the movement out of the casing. Can there be another reason for the VDO clock to stop working? I can post pictures if that helps. Any help would be appreciated.
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fishslapper
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I almost guarantee that there should be a quarter inch long thin wire in there that is probably broken coming off the copper coil.
I got mine working, it just took some time to really look at it. Mine works like a champ now. I have to admit that i did not put low temp solder as the link i just used regular solder.

Post a picture and i will see if i can help. They are pretty simple now that i looked at it more...
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hunza
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


the clock with just the glass removed[/url]
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hunza
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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the inside view
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hunza
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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another inside view..different angle
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