oil leaks- do any engines not leak? FAQ

[Dead 1]

I have been having small leaks coming from the acorn nuts down by the sump. When changing the oil a few days ago I applied Hylomar to the gaskets that goes on the strainer and then also applied Hylomar to the studs where the acorn nuts screw on. No more leaks!
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"I reject your reality and replace it with my own"

"The American Dream - true enough because you gotta be asleep to believe it"
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71, 1776 cc.

[RanX0R0X]

[Desertbusman]

[RanX0R0X]

[thewalrus]

[Hippie]

Mine only leaks to the point of dripping on the ground with full synthetic.

[RanX0R0X]

[spiderjames]

I am no professional mechanic but have built maybe 1/2 dozen or so full rebuilds over the years, and too many partial rebuilds to count 'em. I have found that when motors are new and properly assembled they don't leak. At least initially. Leaks usually accur at the same places and indicate something needs to be looked at, replaced or retorqued. I generally use permatex on most gasket areas and it seams to decrease/postpone most leaks. here's what I have notice over the years regarding common leaks for what it is worth.

CASE HALVES:
In theory they shouldn't need any sealant at all since they are machined in pairs. In practise I have always used aviation permatex and blue locktite and don't have trouble if the torquing sequence is followed properly. In older motors that are seeping sometimes just a retorquing of all the case bolts is enough to stop it.

VALVE COVERS:
I use some fine sand paper on a block and smooth the sealing surfaces on the heads. Then put permatex (any good sealer would probably work here) between the seal and the cover. No sealant between the gasket and the head, just a film of oil. I use off the shelf gaskets whatever is available and reuse them a couple times when doing valve adjustments. My covers never leak.

OIL COOLER:
No tricks here. Just need to use the correct seals. I don't use sealant here. My experience has shown me that trying to use a SP oil cooler with a late model case just doesn't work well even with those fancy adaptar seals. They just never hold up for me. I get best results using a single relief case for SP applications. For DP applications either case is fine as the above mentioned seals work fine for adapting earlier cases to doghouse type applications.

PUSHROD TUBES:
I have found that leaks here usually indicate that the heads need to be retorqued. Some sealant on these will help to delay the leaks a bit.

FRONT MAIN SEAL:
If this is leaking you just gotta pull the engine a replace it. While you are at it check the endplay and retorque everything.

OIL SCREEN:
I put a tiny bit of permatex just around the outside edges of the paper seals. They still seem to seep a bit.

GENERATOR STAND:
I dont usually have an issue here if torqued properly. Old engines usually just need the nuts tightened and the leaking will go away

FUEL PUMP:
I usually don't have trouble here either. again just some seepage usually.

Did I miss anything?

Remember this is just my two cents worth based on my experience, but if a motor is new and I assembled it properly it usually doesn't leak. As the motor ages if I pull it occassionally, like for valve jobs and the like, and retorque eveything properly even an old motor wont leak much. Maybe just some seepage which is easily taken care of with routine cleaning s(purple power).

[enjoispammy8]

mines got a leak, im not sure exactly where from yet. but im betting its the seal behind the flywheel.
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1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
1969 Standard Beetle [sold]
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[reluctantartist]

My engine seems to have developed a leak and it appears to be the front main seal (says rear here).

[Rusty O'Toole]

An old time aircraft mechanic taught me to put Harley crankcases together with Permatex #2 and a silk thread laid on the middle of the joint O ring style. I think he learned this in the 1930s.

The dental floss sounds like the same idea. If this is the case, the thing to use would be small round waxed floss, any flavor.

[TheRustySuper]

My stock 1600 leaks...not badly, and not all from one particular spot. Just slow, steady leaks from all around the engine. I don't think the case has ever been split, 104,xxx miles. No puddles or anything, just a few drops.
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My '72 Super

[vw donvieira]

Yes the silk thread and waxed floss are tricks that John Hayes taught me to keep the cases sealed. They work really well. vwdon

[TrickyThom]

[reluctantartist]

I just bought a SABO seal for mine. Hopefully this will do it. That and I will double check the flywheel to make sure it isn't grooved.
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1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them.

[hamid]

HI

I recently got a 78 bus. it was just leaking few drops right under the engine while the engine was runing. then the engine was dropped by bunch of not so honest mechanics for puting on a new trany. then, I took the bus home. now when the engine is on. I can see the oil driipping on the passenger side right under the head cover. can you help diagnose this. when the engine is not running there is NO leaking. help thanks.

[notchboy]

[hamid]

thanks

I will check those and reply later. thanks a lot

[Randy in Maine]

Also make sure the VW logo on the valve covers is upside down.

[hamid]

thanks

I have to get under the bus and check things out. if it is the push rod tubes what is to do? I hope I do not need to do a valve job now! thanks