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Checking endplay from crank pulley end
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rustfree1967bug
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 7:30 pm    Post subject: Checking endplay from crank pulley end Reply with quote

I was doing some work on my car tonight and just thought I would pull on the crank pulley to see how much endplay I have and i'm pretty sure there is more than there should be. I could easily fell the movement by pulling/pushing on the pulley. I'm just wondering if theres any way to measure the endplay without pulling the engine?
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a dial indicator you can setup a jig and measure it.

The general rule is if you "see" it move, it's too much. Felling it click is OK but a clunk is bad.



Link

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rustfree1967bug
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do have a dial indicator, i'll try to set something up so I can measure it on the crank pulley side. And I can for sure see the pulley move but it doesn't really clunk. I really hope I don't have to tear it down for a rebuild. Iv'e only put a 1000 miles on the car since I bought it.
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rustfree1967bug
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also would checking the oil pressure tell me anything?
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fastinradford
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rustfree1967bug wrote:
Also would checking the oil pressure tell me anything?


depends,
I built a beater motor and used a 30mm oil pump and with about the same play as the motor in glenn's video I never had any running/pressure issues,


however, I never plan to use that sad, sad beat to hell case again anyway.

what it all comes down to is: will your motor serve your purpose, mine did, for a $150 "rebuild" it got me to and from work for over a year. and still ran fine when I removed it.
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rustfree1967bug
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I used a digital fraction caliper and measured between the case and the back side of the crank pulley. I got about 0.53 millimeters which I think would be about 20 thousands? If thats right just how bad is that? Would it be worth pulling the engine and reshimming or is it too late?
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Duane
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rustfree1967bug wrote:
Well I used a digital fraction caliper and measured between the case and the back side of the crank pulley. I got about 0.53 millimeters which I think would be about 20 thousands? If thats right just how bad is that? Would it be worth pulling the engine and reshimming or is it too late?


I wouldn't trust that means of measurement. Us a dial off the crank, you have to much room for error doing it the other way. Also, measure after thrusting both directions with no pressure applied, i.e. don't take your readings while you pulling the crankshaft or pushing, take freeload measurements.

I take crank measurements and backlashes all the time, cranks that require anywhere from .015mm to 1mm, backlashes roughly down to .015mm and can see the movement easily with my eyes, so I have to disagree with Glenn about if you can see it its usually bad.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you having any issues, like the front crank seal leaking? If no issues, I think I'd just drive it and not worry. If you know how to pull an engine already, and have a few hours free, and know how to get the flywheel off if different spacer washer is needed, then do it the right way.
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