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Turn signals stopped working, need input please
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grumpyveedub
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:14 am    Post subject: Turn signals stopped working, need input please Reply with quote

Ok, I had the turn signals working at the shop. I only had rear lights in so they only worked. Next day I tried them, nothing worked. I still have brake lights, but no turns. I thought that I might have fried my relay since it was working 2x as fast. So I got my front lights in place and new relay, still nothing. I am getting power to the relay, ground it good and clean and nothing else has changed. So I am now leaning towards the switch on the column. If this is my next step, how can I test it/by pass it to test the rest of the system?

Thanks.


Last edited by grumpyveedub on Mon Apr 07, 2008 3:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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brotherbob
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been wiring my 63 SC all week and finally enlisted a buddy to help me figure out what was going on, all i can say is.
1.Most electrical problems are GROUND related .
2. Dont drink more than 3 beers and try working on your bus.
my 2 centavos.
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grumpyveedub
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

all new wiring, the ground for the turns is the ground for the headlights and parking lights, they both work.
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mintonman
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This may be a stupid question, but since you said the light was flashing 2x faster I'll ask. Have you checked the bulb filiments(wires inside the bulb that actually make the light)?? When you have 1 turnsignal bulb filiment burned out it will make the other flash 2x faster to let you know you need a new bulb. I would also try sanding/cleaning the sockets your bulbs go into with some stealwool or fine sand paper.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

grumpyveedub wrote:
all new wiring, the ground for the turns is the ground for the headlights and parking lights, they both work.


They might work, but the tailight running lights might be grounding out by running through the signal/brake wires up to the front of the bus and grounding out there.

VW finally installed a grounding wire harness at the factory for the taillights in about 1970 because of constant problems with these.
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grumpyveedub
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i will check the front sockets, the rears are repop. might run a ground for the rears just to be sure. running LED's front and back. the regular 1157's melted my repop lens so i went to LED.
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Lind
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

grumpyveedub wrote:
i will check the front sockets, the rears are repop. might run a ground for the rears just to be sure. running LED's front and back. the regular 1157's melted my repop lens so i went to LED.

did it quit working when you went to LEDs? I have heard that LEDs don't draw enough power to trip the blinker.
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mintonman
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Melted lenses! were they 6v bulbs in a 12v system?
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brotherbob
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most LEDs don't have enough current draw to trip the flasher unit -true-.
Now if you wanna run LEDs you can wire in a regular 12 volt bulb in the circuit , like a turn indicator . Then everything will work , the 12 volt bulb draws enough to keep em' flashing correctly. Shocked
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grumpyveedub
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok ran a ground for the tails. when the turn signal switch is to the right position all 3 lights flash, yes all 3, not 4 but 3. the d/s front does not flash. i moved the p/s and d/s front around on the switch, the d/s works. maybe something went south in the switch since nothing works when the switch is in the left signal position and nothing is working on the front d/s position.

as for the melted lens, 12v bulbs, 12v system.

the rears did work at the shop with the LED's, next time i tried nothing.
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grumpyveedub
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, put in some 1157's in the rear, works are normal. after some google searches and found out that there is a LED flasher relay. i am told oreillys has them, guess will find out tomorrow.
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dstefun
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear tail lamps and lenses were designed for 6V 17 watt bulbs. 12V 1034's are 23 watts and 1157's are 27 watts, brighter but 58% hotter too.

I would stick with 1034's if you can find them but 1157's are brighter if they work OK with your flasher (and if they don't melt your lenses!).

If you can't find an electronic flasher, you can also buy load resistors to put in parallel with your LED lamp's. That adds enough current drain for the standard flasher to work.


http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html

Quote:
ELECTRONIC LED FLASHERS

We now offer 2-Pin and 3-Pin (1/4 inch spade lug type) LED compatible Flasher Units in this category. You should definitely use one of these instead of Load Resistors if we have one to fit your vehicle. They operate at the correct flash rate with LED or standard filament bulbs. 10~15 Volts DC - Flash Rate: 80 per minute

Note that some of these flashers operate silently, they do not make the familiar clicking sound when operating. One solution is to connect a common automotive relay to the output along with your LED bulbs
Also note that these flashers do not replace all flasher units. Before you order, please see the pin outs of our flashers in the "more info" page below and compare with the one you are replacing. Click the part numbers for complete spec sheets. You can usually find your flasher pin out printed right on your flasher. Failure to check this and installation in an incompatible vehicle can blow your fuse, destroy the flasher and void the flasher warranty


Quote:
LOAD RESISTOR KITS

One LOAD Resistor is required for each turn signal bulb

6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn signal bulbs to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing or burnt out bulb indications. Resistor measures 1.96L x .64W x .60H inches, leads are 12 inches long. Kit Includes gel filled moisture resistant splice taps.

CONNECTION INSTRUCTIONS: Using included splice taps, connect one wire to ground and the other wire to the turn/brake hot wire. Splice taps allow for installation without cutting your turn signal wires.
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grumpyveedub
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i saw the relay on that site then looked on ebay, then was on yahoo im and a friend told me he just got the relay from the parts store. i would rather just get he relay and keep from adding more into the electrical, more added more to fail.
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