Author |
Message |
tmoleary Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2007 Posts: 17 Location: Hawthorn Woods IL
|
Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:08 pm Post subject: How can I get in to my engine? Door won't open |
|
|
I have a 70 Ghia. I was trying to adjust the rear hood latch and lenghtened the alignment pin with spring. I closed the lid to see how the adjustment worked. I now cannot get the pull wire to open the latch. I have tried pulling and pushing with a helper pulling the wire but to no avail.
It was suggested that I remove one of the rear tail light assemblies to get into the latch but after getting the lense off I could not figure how to get the light bulb assembly out of the fender.
There are 4 bolts comming out below the latch, near the muffler. I had thought about drilling out these bolts but it has been difficult. with little room to work with a drill. What do you think of my cutting off the threaded nut like peice that seems to be fastened to the bottom side of the tin holding the latch? Is there any other way I can get that latch to release? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
70 140 Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2002 Posts: 8471 Location: Ontario Canada
|
Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The tail light trick only works on 72-74 cars.
What you have done is lengthened the pin and it is now snagged in the mechanism. Pull the release cable and stick a vise grip on it to hold it out. Press down on the trunklid and try bumping it around, etc - you might get it open.
Otherwise, you can bend the breast plate (rear tin) piece up - stick your hand through and manipulate the latch. You might need to pull the muffler off to make it easier. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Deluxe Lowlight Ghia Samba Member
Joined: March 26, 2006 Posts: 1037 Location: Arizona
|
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
cut the 4 bolts that hold the latch to exept a flathead screwdriver and unscrew and that might work _________________ These vws are cool but the people who own them are far more valuable. Keep friends close they can be taken away overnight.
57 ghia
59 patina ghia
61 patina Ghia
71 bus
73 super beetle
74 thing
75 half bug |
|
Back to top |
|
|
execk2 Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2005 Posts: 1359 Location: Quebec City
|
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Yep, cut the 4 bolts from under that hold the latch. It'll pop open then put new bolts with the nuts at the bottom so next time you can back them off. _________________ Mike
www.mikeandjosee.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
tmoleary Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2007 Posts: 17 Location: Hawthorn Woods IL
|
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I have been trying all night to bend that "breast plate", the tin behind the engine, but it is very difficult. I tried to bend it with a jack placed under the tin near the latch pushing up a metal bar into the tin. Not much movement but I can get my fingers to touch the latch. I can feel the end of the release wire but can't do anything with it.
I think tomorrow night I will try to notch those screws with a dremel tool and see if I can screw them back out. At first I thought of one of those screw extractors but that would be turning the bolt the wrong way. It is tight to work behind the muffeler but I have been reluctant to remove it as there is a small pipe from the muffler going up into the engin area and I do not know how or to what that pipe is anchored. I do not want to screw up more things. I think the latch will be enough of that for a while. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kdcaul Samba Member
Joined: August 14, 2007 Posts: 60
|
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If the release wire is not broken,I would try pulling on the release knob
as far as it will go while someone else pulls up on the engine lid.
Might also try,while pulling on the knob, a firm plastic pry bar to lift the
engine lid. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
70 140 Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2002 Posts: 8471 Location: Ontario Canada
|
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 6:00 am Post subject: |
|
|
tmoleary wrote: |
I think tomorrow night I will try to notch those screws with a dremel tool and see if I can screw them back out. At first I thought of one of those screw extractors but that would be turning the bolt the wrong way. It is tight to work behind the muffeler but I have been reluctant to remove it as there is a small pipe from the muffler going up into the engin area and I do not know how or to what that pipe is anchored. I do not want to screw up more things. I think the latch will be enough of that for a while. |
You must have original tin, it is much harder to bend then the chrome stuff, which folds if you look at it.
The pipe up from the muffler is either for the heating system or the carb/airfilter preheat. All of which are anchored with hose clamps at the other end.
I was just thinking; if you could figure out where the bottom of the latch pin is, you could drill a hole from underneath. IIRC the bottom of the pin has a slot in it for a screwdriver - you could spin the pin around and try to dislodge it from the latch.... You still have the vise grips holding the knob out right? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
tmoleary Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2007 Posts: 17 Location: Hawthorn Woods IL
|
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:04 pm Post subject: I finally got the hood open! |
|
|
Finally I can see my engine again. I got a cutting wheel for the Dremel tool and used it to cut off the threaded nut like piece welded to the under side of the sheet metal on each of the 4 bolts holding the latch. As I got near the sheet metal surface with the cutter the bolts popped out and after the 4th one I was able to open the hood.
I will install the bolts holding the latch with nuts on the outside so I can open it again, if I have to, by removing the nuts. Does anyone have an idea how I can keep the new bolt from turning on the latch inside if I have to remove the nuts from below?
I would not recommend bending the sheet metal. I now have a messed up sheet metal and ended up cutting off the bolts anyway. Even if I had been able to get a hand inside on the latch (I have a sore hand from trying) it would have been difficult to figure how to move what to get things loose.
I appreciated the comment from member 70 140 regarding that the removing of the tail light assembly to gain access under the hood applies only to 72-74 Ghias. I sure couldn’t see how I could remove that piece from the outside on my 70.
I would caution anyone trying to make the adjustment on the latch pin to first check that the movable latch piece is in the right (closed) position when the cable handle is all the way in. I may have adjusted it incorrectly before closing the hood. Also, If adjusting the pin to increase spring tension, do not extend the pin too much at one time. I think if I had gradually lengthened the latch pin I may have come to the correct adjustment point without getting so far out that it jammed up the mechanism.
So now all I have to do is reinstall the latch or maybe not.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Hiramhaus Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2006 Posts: 666 Location: IC
|
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I don't have a latch- and no latch mechanism, seems to stay shut, never hear it flapping due to the springs I assume. I was going to put spacers on the hinge, but I am afraid it would flap then, if not latched.
I am always scared my cable to the front is going to snap or something- is the procedure the same up front? _________________ 1969 Ghia
2016 Audi Q3 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
execk2 Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2005 Posts: 1359 Location: Quebec City
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 5:54 am Post subject: |
|
|
Mine has been disconnected for years. No problem it stays shut! _________________ Mike
www.mikeandjosee.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
74Ghia Samba Member
Joined: December 17, 2003 Posts: 2131 Location: Middle of Georgia
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 6:39 am Post subject: |
|
|
I rebuilt my 74 and opted not to put the latch back on. The deck lid is heavy enough not to bounce around and flap open.
For the front trunk lid, I welded a second cable near the point where the cable connects and ran it out to the wheel well and welded on a large washer. If the cable snaps I have the emergency one still connected and can access the trunk area. Fortunately I have the gas flap and don't need to open the trunk to fill the tank. Don't know what I'd do if the gas flap cable breaks. Guess I'd be SOL. _________________ Allen C.
2012 Silverado
53 FiberFab MG TD Replica (VW)
Life is hard and its harder if you're stupid. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Ghiaddict Samba Member
Joined: November 20, 2002 Posts: 2632 Location: Now in Honea Path, SC
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 7:13 am Post subject: |
|
|
74Ghia wrote: |
I rebuilt my 74 and opted not to put the latch back on. The deck lid is heavy enough not to bounce around and flap open.
Fortunately I have the gas flap and don't need to open the trunk to fill the tank. Don't know what I'd do if the gas flap cable breaks. Guess I'd be SOL. |
If that happens, you can reach under the right front fender
to access the removal of 2 bolts that mount the hinge side
of the fuel door.
Remember, for the front hood, you can reach up through the
horn boot to trip the latch in case of cable problems. _________________ ****************************
Karmann Ghia & Beetle parts available.
Convertible tops installed. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Frankie Pintado Samba Member
Joined: April 02, 2008 Posts: 372 Location: Lake of the Woods, VA
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 12:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I ran a backup cable on my trunk latch out of bailing wire. It runs out of a small hole in the engine compartment and comes out next to my left bumper bracket. It is well hidden. I use it more often than I use the original. I just reach up underneath the car and "pop".
Also, at one point the latch wasn't grabbing the pin. I took the thing apart and the spring had just worn out. I cut a little off of the spring and bent a new hook in the end I cut off, reconnected it and it works like new.
It's a pretty strange little latch that basicly floats in there under proper tension. I had the spring mounted one way and it absolutely did not work, so I twisted it 180 degrees and it works perfectly. Finicky little bastard.
By the way, thanks for the info on the front hatch and the gas door. I always wondered what I would do if those cables snapped. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
69Ghia-pet Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2009 Posts: 187 Location: Dallas
|
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:18 am Post subject: |
|
|
I have the same problem on my 69. Is there a trick to getting it open? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
NOVA Airhead Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2005 Posts: 5221 Location: Richmond, VA
|
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:50 am Post subject: |
|
|
I gave up on my rear latch as well. Unless you think someone will steal something off of your engine, you really don't need the latch. I have a 'vert and it doesn't matter anyway. If they wanted something bad enough, they could cut the top and pull the latch.
I rebuilt everything for mt latch but did not "enable" it. That is everything is there so it looks original. However, I removed the engine lid pin. _________________ Ghia Owner Emeritus |
|
Back to top |
|
|
CLKWRK Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2001 Posts: 566 Location: Toronto
|
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:58 am Post subject: |
|
|
I have a small hole drilled under the latch mechanism, if it ever jams in the future ,I can stick a thin screwdriver in there and trip it with no damage. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Deluxe Lowlight Ghia Samba Member
Joined: March 26, 2006 Posts: 1037 Location: Arizona
|
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 8:41 am Post subject: |
|
|
when i posted to cut the screws that does work if they arnt rusted but im to cool to run a latch on my ghia but the front...was so rusty when i got it that it broke so i cleaned it greesed it and driled a hole through the middle and bolted that stupid latch together and it still works _________________ These vws are cool but the people who own them are far more valuable. Keep friends close they can be taken away overnight.
57 ghia
59 patina ghia
61 patina Ghia
71 bus
73 super beetle
74 thing
75 half bug |
|
Back to top |
|
|
69Ghia-pet Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2009 Posts: 187 Location: Dallas
|
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 2:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
CLKWRK where exactly do I drill the hole? I found the four "bolts" connecting the latch mechanism to the under body. Does it have to somewhere in the middle?
Sorry I know I sound elementary asking you this, but I am new to the whole Ghia world. Two days into my first Ghia rebuild. And all my repair manuals do not have any advise or how to when it comes to this problem.
Thanks for the help.
Matt |
|
Back to top |
|
|
hpw Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2006 Posts: 3010 Location: memphis
|
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 2:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
69Ghia-pet wrote: |
CLKWRK where exactly do I drill the hole? I found the four "bolts" connecting the latch mechanism to the under body. Does it have to somewhere in the middle?
Sorry I know I sound elementary asking you this, but I am new to the whole Ghia world. Two days into my first Ghia rebuild. And all my repair manuals do not have any advise or how to when it comes to this problem.
Thanks for the help.
Matt |
The end of the tape is lined up with the center of the upper right bolt, so
if you measure over approx 1-1/2" and drill a 1/4" d. hole it should line
you up with the latch which should allow you to pivot the arm.
This is what you would see if you had x-ray vision from under the car.
The latch is towards the front of the car and you could use a scratch awl
to pivot the arm
[img][/img] _________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SLIzSCt_cg&list=FLIX26sGa8__1F1loczLPTtg&index=2 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
hpw Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2006 Posts: 3010 Location: memphis
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|