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Pop Top Insulation Review
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 7:37 pm    Post subject: Pop Top Insulation Review Reply with quote

I bought an insulating wrap from Fanchers upholstery www.fanchers.com that I am very happy with.

Here it is at Wolf Creek.
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The wrap attaches to a velcro strip at the top of the pop top. itthen wraps around the rear of the pop top, and velcros to itself.

You have to climb up onto the luggage rack to install it. Removal is even easier, just pull it down and roll it up.. no need to climb, as it peels off the velcro while walking around the van.

On the day of the Photo, I went skiing for about 3 hours. When I came back it was 25 degrees warmer inside (55F) the van than outside (30F). Without the insulation wrap, I usually see a 10 degree warmer interior than exterior of the vehicle, with the top up at a ski area during the day.

I like that the Pop Top Insulation wrap is air and water proof. It really does feel like it makes a big difference with it on.

I also bought Fanchers screen repair kit, another very well made item. I now have no tears in my screen, yay!

happy camping

Jonathan
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TopBud
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

were you running a heater in the vw to see that 25 degree difference?
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Yellow Rabbit
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How difficult was the screen repair kit installation? I've been looking at that also, but I questioned the long term durability of the glue. Do you have any pics?
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no heater, just solar gain thru the limo tinted windows during a partly cloudy day.. I was amazed

I do have a propex, but have not tested its ability to heat the van since I got the pop top wrap.. my propex tests without the pop top wrap was that I could get a 30 degree spread.. Im gessing the wrap is adding 15 more.. so if its 20 outside, Im guessing I could get the inside as high as 65 with the wrap or 50 without the wrap..

as to the screen.. I will try to get you some pictures tomorrow. The glue is excellent, its like rubber cement, and you can even pull it apart if you screw up, but it holds very securely.

the screen kit is only for rounder openings, I think 85-86, check with the Fancher..

I think my 86 canadian canvas had a more squared opening, but I was able to make the screen kit work.. what seemed different is that I had to make the bottom of the screen line up 1 inch higher than the instructions, as I read them..

One tip on instalation that I think might be helpful, instead of starting by pinning the screen along the bottom.. I would simply attach it with glue to the top center, then work down from the top instead of up from the bottom.. thats what worked for me... I did not use any pins.

I also unzipped the screen and was then easily able to mate the replacement to the exact position next to the zipper, where I wanted it.. again, this is just me, the instructions say dont unzip, do use pins, and start from the bottom..
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

note the two lines along the bottom of the canvas window. The lower one is the canvas seam. The one about 1 inch above that is the bottom of the glued in screen binding.

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===========
image of how close I was able to lay the binding on the new screen, to the existing zipper.. I like it, and got it that way by glueing when unzipped.. but, you have to worry about finishing evenly, if you pull too tight at some point you will have too much material at the end.

My install has this problem with the drivers top corner of the screen curve. I got lots of pucker and sag. Dont copy me, do it better.. I think my window opening is not the same curve as the screen.. I suggest tacking the screen up at 3 points, with glue, top center, and at the top curves, thats the part I did not do. In fact, I started at the bottom passenger side corner of the screen, so by the time I got to the driver top curve, I had to make up for puckers in the screen..

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


=====================


image of outside bottom, looking down from inside.. note my prior glue line, from starting at the botton. Also note the old screen remnant

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=====================

note the white line at bottom of screen. That is the soft binding sewn to the screen. This white binding is what gets glued with the special rubber cement.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


forgive my poor screen centering, you can do a better job by starting at the top instead of the bottom, at least in my opinion..
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found a much easier way to install the fanchers wrap, now that I have pop top shocks from Jack Bombay (really really highly recommended).

the shocks hold the roof in any position, so I raise it just a few inches, then attach the Fanchers wrap to the velcro strip on the pop top by standing on the front wheels..

standing on the luggage wrap was a non starter, especially in snow..

for that matter, raising the top in snow is a BAD idea.. unless you carry a broom to get the load off the roof before literally Dropping the top..

the Fanchers wrap stores easily, rolled up behind the upper bunk
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jon,
I too have the insulation, it rocks both winter and summer.
I also use a GoWesty rain fly over the insulation for wet/snowy conditions, plus it looks nicer.
I have been able to keep much of the heat in during winter camping and have been able to cool both upstairs and downstairs with a small AC unit hung out the pass. window.
Both of these accessories are awesome.

dylan
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I managed to find an original Westfalia verison of this heat screen... here are a few photos...

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As with Jon's, it makes a big difference to keeping the warmth in the van and the wind and rain out! I still haven't managed to find any photos of the original in a brochure so don't know how they fixed the bottom eyelets on the corners... anyone know?

MG
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tclark
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

has anyone tried the atelierspk
http://www.atelierspk.com/isolated%20tent.html
'Toile isolante' ->
http://translate.google.ca/?sl=es&tl=en#fr|en|Toile%20isolante
Insulating tape wrap Smile
looks like the wrap material is Made of 'thermofoild'
http://thermofoil.com/ not sure about that Question
wheres Ben when ya needs him ...
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

not clear why that thing has foil on the outside - to reduce heat loss by radiation you want the foil on the inside to reflect radiant heat from the interior back in.

to the extent there is any sunlight around in cold weather, you'd want the exterior to be black, and non-reflective
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MrPolak
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
not clear why that thing has foil on the outside - to reduce heat loss by radiation you want the foil on the inside to reflect radiant heat from the interior back in.

to the extent there is any sunlight around in cold weather, you'd want the exterior to be black, and non-reflective


But then you'd be relying on conductive heating of the inside foil layer which is on the outside of the canvas. That does not make for efficient heat transfer. And, the winter sun is generally very weak unless you're in Florida.

As a plus the outside foil layer does make it water/snow proof, and it reflects sunlight should you choose to use it in the summer with optional A/C inside.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no idea what you are talking about re conduction - the idea would be to AVOID all heat transfer, including conduction if you want to retain heat inside the vehicle

if you mean in order to gain heat that is captured at the surface then, yes, conduction would inhibit that heatX but more radiation capture with a flat black color means more heat flux, simply b/c the gradient is higher across the material for the same conductivity -- most heatX will be by convection w/in the material anyway

sunlight is quite strong at high altitude, where it is often cold _ I've measured solar beam values in excess of 1kW/m2 using radiometers as low as 6,000 ft.
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westynova
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A buddy had an original Pop Top Insulation blanket, that I copied the pattern and made my own.

Thanks Ron.
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