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Dash foil repair, it CAN be done, but it ain't pretty
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 1:11 pm    Post subject: Dash foil repair, it CAN be done, but it ain't pretty Reply with quote

Who says you can't solder to a dash foil?

The method I use is to get one of those Cold Heat soldering irons and some .015 inch silver bearing solder from Radio Shack.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It takes practice with the cold heat gun, but if you have exposed metal foil, you can melt a bead of solder to build up a little ball. Once that freezes, then carefully take a length of solder wire and solder or melt that to the little ball on the foil. You do the same on the other end and you have bridged the gap.

In this photo, my foil had formed a gap behind the tachometer:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It is delicate work, but you can repair an otherwise useless foil that has a short in it.

My 85 dash had a recurring problem with the speedo light, so I cut away the shorting section and bridged the gap with some solder:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I was a bit lazy with the length of wire, but I can always trim it down and resolder.

Remember to use silver bearing solder so it has good electrical conductivity. Idea
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goffoz
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my line of work I use Oxy/propane ,propane,hydrogen, electric induction
and recently we went to laser...but whats "cold heat"
....never heard of it Confused
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gt8
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

goffoz wrote:
In my line of work I use Oxy/propane ,propane,hydrogen, electric induction
and recently we went to laser...but whats "cold heat"
....never heard of it Confused

i think there has been a phase where we've seen it on tv
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, you did it on those late night tv infomercials.

Best I can tell is that it uses a two sided tip made of carbon, or a mix there of. It is a variation of resistance soldering, only it is inexpensive.

Here is a really great article about it:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1759,1750090,00.asp?kc=PCRSS03079TX1K0000585

You touch both tips to what you want to solder by placing both the solder and work piece in the center of the tip(very tricky!); and I believe a tiny induction current flows. There is little excess heat, less than a regular solder gun.

http://www.coldheat.com/NR/store/index.cfm?action=cat.prodInfo&productID=76

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Home depot still sells them and the tips under either the Cold Heat. I think they were sold under the Weller brand for a while.

Cold Heat is a great idea, but it isn't too popular because you don't use it like a normal soldering gun. And it is hard to work with.
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keithwwalker wrote:
Yeah, you did it on those late night tv infomercials.

Best I can tell is that it uses a two sided tip made of carbon, or a mix there of. It is a variation of resistance soldering, only it is inexpensive.

Here is a really great article about it:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1759,1750090,00.asp?kc=PCRSS03079TX1K0000585

You touch both tips to what you want to solder by placing both the solder and work piece in the center of the tip(very tricky!); and I believe a tiny induction current flows. There is little excess heat, less than a regular solder gun.

http://www.coldheat.com/NR/store/index.cfm?action=cat.prodInfo&productID=76

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Home depot still sells them and the tips under either the Cold Heat. I think they were sold under the Weller brand for a while.

Cold Heat is a great idea, but it isn't too popular because you don't use it like a normal soldering gun. And it is hard to work with.


An alternative is http://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/index.php?req=prod&cat=hobby
But these units are professional grade and cost at least $300.

I'll stick with the harder to use $20 tool, lolz!
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stevey88
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This thing has several volts across the tip. I will not solder anything with integrated circuit with it. Take it from an EE with over 30 years of experience in Semiconductors.
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reiney
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another good thing to use for foil repair is wire-wrap wire. Radio Shack used to stock it but no more ... It is 30 ga. tinned with a fairly tough, heat-proof insulation (Kynar, I think ...). I solder it with a cordless, fine point soldering iron with a hi-temp tip.

Hardest part is stripping the wire without nicking the conductor.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hate to nitpick, keith, but those things you repaired were open circuits, not shorts.
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are right about the open circuit behind the tachometer.

But the speedo light was a short, I could touch the foil before the repair and the light would flicker, but the foil would also spark. This was magnified when I still thought it was an open circuit and I painted some conductive paint back there (defroster repair kit stuff). The resulting light show was interesting, conductive paint lights up when it shorts out, lol.

So basically I cut out the shorting area, making an open circuit and bridged it.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aha.
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psych-illogical
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevey88 wrote:
This thing has several volts across the tip. I will not solder anything with integrated circuit with it. Take it from an EE with over 30 years of experience in Semiconductors.


Thanks for pointing that out. I bought one of these a while ago and showed it to an EE here at work. He said thing.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

www.mcmaster.com sells a special conductive epoxy for just this sort of repair. My bro uses it all the time on his antique Mercedes. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrowestytd wrote:
www.mcmaster.com sells a special conductive epoxy for just this sort of repair. My bro uses it all the time on his antique Mercedes. Very Happy

What about the stuff they sell to repair rear window defrosters? It seems to be some kind of conductor paint.
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah that defroster paint is conductive.
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You raise an excellent point, something that this ME didn't think about. AFAIK, the dash foil only has some resistors?

Still it worked and the cost of failure was the same as not fixing the foil - ie, throwing it out.

stevey88 wrote:
This thing has several volts across the tip. I will not solder anything with integrated circuit with it. Take it from an EE with over 30 years of experience in Semiconductors.
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TremcladWhite
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 10:11 pm    Post subject: Fix foil circuit Reply with quote

Perales wrote:
What about the stuff they sell to repair rear window defrosters? It seems to be some kind of conductor paint.


The defroster repair goo is a resistor (so that it warms up)... with the incandescent bulbs in the cluster all the current will probably make your foil burn up. My new ebay cluster had a funky tach, and I just solved the problem (cracked copper connection) with a drop of solder.

Before:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I wonder if the flux that I used will cause the ccts to short? Now, if I could only find the open circuit that causes my whole cluster to go dark when I drive over bumps and then it to come back on and the temp light flash... I'm thinking of renaming the van Blinky because of this. It sounds a bit like this problem (bad ground maybe).
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