Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
another kitchen rust project (warning: long and TBC)
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3
Forum Index -> Vanagon Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
ScottN
Samba Member


Joined: April 04, 2007
Posts: 11
Location: North Cascades, WA
ScottN is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the side panel a while back on my restoration project. It helps to have something to push against while gluing things up so that there's an even thickness of adhesive and no deformation. A 2x8 clamped to the wheel wells and some wood wedges worked for me. Here's a photo. I glued up, set the wedges and pushed from the inside. (the bottom edge is easy to clamp). Later I had a piece of 20 gauge steel bent to brace the inside and glued it in too. Good luck!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

-Scott
_________________
1987 Syncro Westy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Honuak
Samba Member


Joined: April 21, 2009
Posts: 520
Location: AK
Honuak is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:28 pm    Post subject: Delete it! Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Heres a pic of my recent resto. I used multiple layers of epoxy fiberglass to delete the utility inlets completly. Also replaced the fridge (12V only) and deleted that hole too. While I was at it I deleted the antenna hole, rear wiper (never worked that well) and (we dont need no stinking) badge holes as well.I wanted to eliminate as many paths for water entry into the body as possible. I figured I never used the utility inlets anyway. I do have to fill the water tank from the inside and I put in a marine 120 inlet and a powered antenna. I've plugged the stuff before but for those places where I suspect small leaks I've applied Capt Tollys Creeking Crack Cure, great stuff, it sealed up my problem skylight like a champ. I put a bit on the windsheald seal too.
SAMBA!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
MarkWard
Samba Member


Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 17007
Location: Retired South Florida
MarkWard is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ScottN, do you have a picture of the peice you bent up and fitted inside? Thank you.
_________________
☮️
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ScottN
Samba Member


Joined: April 04, 2007
Posts: 11
Location: North Cascades, WA
ScottN is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here you go- I'm not sure how much help this will be. It's been sprayed with epoxy primer and seam sealed so it's a bit hard to see.

I started by shearing a 3-1/2" x 48" strip of 20 gauge cold rolled steel. It was bent so that the edge that sits on the floor is 2" wide (leaving 1-1/2 against the side panel). The angle isn't 90 degrees. I made a quick template out of cardboard to give to the guy doing the bending.

It still took a bit of tweaking on my end to get it to fit well- the original panel has a slight curve to it. But a bit of trimming to allow access to the drain plugs on the floor and on the ends to fit around the door pillar finished it off. The side of the van is nice and solid now.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Hope this helps.

-Scott
_________________
1987 Syncro Westy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
MarkWard
Samba Member


Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 17007
Location: Retired South Florida
MarkWard is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott, yes I see it a picture is worth a thousand words. All the posts about kitchen and seam rust, and this is the first one I have seen with it actually repaired where the rust is the worst. Thank you for taking the time to post a picture and to reply. My floor is marginal in that area, and the outer panel including the rocker is in fairly good shape. I am going to treat the rust, paint and seal and then I am going to try an Eastwood product in an aerosol called Internal frame coating to blow into the area and see how it holds up until I am ready to do all of the body work. At least I understand what will be required to fix the area properly. I don't want to do something now that will complicate fixing it properly later. Thanks again. mark
_________________
☮️
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
WAgrower
Samba Member


Joined: March 25, 2011
Posts: 182
Location: Seattle
WAgrower is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reviving an old thread, I've got the same issue with inside floor rust and some seam rust. However there is little to no evidence of seam rust from the outside so currently I'm not planning on replacing the rocker pannel, just the rusted floor inside (not really the floor, bit the top of the channel that runs along the side of the van- not sure what it's called...)

Rsxsr how did you like the Westwood inner frame spray? I ordered a can of that and a can of the new rust converter. Also did you put a new floor piece like the one shown in Bens photo?

I'm thinking of cutting out the rusted floor section, sealing it and leaving it open. Anyone see any issues? There are large drain holes that I think I should fill if I leave it open...

I've just started cutting so more investigation is underway.
_________________
82' Westy running on WVO!

"We have created a market that socializes losses and privatizes gains"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
MarkWard
Samba Member


Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 17007
Location: Retired South Florida
MarkWard is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My task was to only replace the fridge fan at the time. I will tackle the body work last, but I did need to attempt to slow the rust. I used a wire brush on my air 90 degree grinder to knock off the rust I could. I used a stick magnet to get as much loose rust from under the floor panel. I then sprayed all the rusted area with Eastwood rust encapsulator. The spray cans are easier to deal with. I then mixed up a couple tubes of JB weld and smeared the entire panel to fill the pits and to put back some strength.

I then sprayed the frame stuff from eastwood using all 4 factory holes that had the plugs. Working from both ends and then the middle two. I got enough in there that it ran out the bottom. One can was enough to do that frame member and the sliding door member. I then painted the entire area with rustoleum. I left the plugs out on purpose. Not sure why they are there, but I believe any moisture that might collect there, should run into the frame, where it can then run out on to the ground.

I put sound deadener on the inner wall along with insulation and reflectix. Last step was as I said above was to spray CRC soft sol a corrosion inhibitor. I was suprised that some actually weaped out the seams to the outside even on the sides. I used 4 layers of reflectix and it is off the floor panel.

When the time comes, I will probably have to cut it all out and do it right. I feel I have slowed the rust and was able to then put the fridge back in, the original project. Here are a few pictures. Not as glamorous as the above proper repairs, but I did not have to cut, weld, fit, finish, prime and paint. mark

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
☮️
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
WAgrower
Samba Member


Joined: March 25, 2011
Posts: 182
Location: Seattle
WAgrower is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark-
Thanks for the write up! I'm in the same boat as far as waiting to do a proper whole body paint job and rust crusade.

I think I'm going to leave the channel open. Then spray it with rust converter and primer and call it protected for a couple years. Also do the Inner frame of the door side with the Eastwood. I can say that inside those frames is covered in a wax and alot of caked on dust- or at least the one I cut open was. Don't know how much that will cut the effectiveness of the spray inside the frame I can't clean.

Thanks for the reply!
_________________
82' Westy running on WVO!

"We have created a market that socializes losses and privatizes gains"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
vweggie
Samba Member


Joined: May 01, 2007
Posts: 219
Location: End of the road, Vancouver Island
vweggie is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad this thread was revived.

The OP screwed his panel on as well as glued. Are the screws necessary and would you grind the heads off after for appearances?
_________________
1990 Multivan 2.1 AT
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
WAgrower
Samba Member


Joined: March 25, 2011
Posts: 182
Location: Seattle
WAgrower is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think he used screws to hold anything. He used a product called weld-bond and glued to panel in.

I'm no body expert but I would guess a screw with no head would be at risk of coming apart over time. Spot welds and adhesives seem to be the way to go.
_________________
82' Westy running on WVO!

"We have created a market that socializes losses and privatizes gains"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
vweggie
Samba Member


Joined: May 01, 2007
Posts: 219
Location: End of the road, Vancouver Island
vweggie is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what I was referring to:

Quote:
After I was happy with the fit I used a few #6 sheet metal screws on the top edge and C- clamps on the bottom.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
1990 Multivan 2.1 AT
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
WAgrower
Samba Member


Joined: March 25, 2011
Posts: 182
Location: Seattle
WAgrower is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the screws were just used to hold the pannel in place while the glue dried, then removed. I think grinding the heads off would be a larger pia then removing them.

Hopefully someone with bodywork expertise will chime in... I'm a fiberglass guy so sheetmetal is new territory Rolling Eyes
_________________
82' Westy running on WVO!

"We have created a market that socializes losses and privatizes gains"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
nemobuscaptain
Samba Member


Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 3874

nemobuscaptain is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just glancing over this old thread.

I have this job to do also. What are the more experienced (especially experienced body guys) thoughts on glue vs welding this particular panel?
_________________
Ohio Valley Tribe, Full Moon Bus Club https://www.facebook.com/groups/294422277314227/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/FullMoonBusClub

RIP Bob Hoover https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=427791
Hoover Sermons: https://www.vwsage.com/images/vwsage/Bob%20Hoovers%20Sermons.pdf
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
guavajelly
Samba Member


Joined: April 30, 2007
Posts: 65
Location: MI>MN>CA>WI>KS>ME
guavajelly is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I figure a little update on this project might be in order.
first to answer a couple of question that I had missed whilst on a samba hiatus. The sheet metal screw where only hold the panel in place while the Sem Weld-bond cured.

I originally did this project in 2008, the adhesive is still holding strong. And when I pulled my fridge last week for servicing I inspected the area am please to say that there is zero new rust and the POR-15 on the body panel and floor seemed to do the trick. 7 years and counting.
_________________
65 Karmann Ghia Coupe
83 a/c westy
Past:
71 fastback
66 squareback
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
djkeev
Samba Moderator


Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32432
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
djkeev is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the update!

Sadly, This is something that rarely happens but when it does it is invaluable!

Proven repair method with real World time proven results!

Bravo!!

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
imdbui
Samba Member


Joined: June 03, 2014
Posts: 87
Location: Aloha, OR
imdbui is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When over lapping and gluing the new replacement metal over the section of removed metal, how is the new section kept flush with the existing adjacent panels of the van?

Did you have to bend back the lip of the glued section when aligning the panels?
_________________
1986 Syncro Westy
1989 tintop Wolfsburg "White Star"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Vanagon All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3
Page 3 of 3

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.