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another kitchen rust project (warning: long and TBC)
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imdbui
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When over lapping and gluing the new replacement metal over the section of removed metal, how is the new section kept flush with the existing adjacent panels of the van?

Did you have to bend back the lip of the glued section when aligning the panels?
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the update!

Sadly, This is something that rarely happens but when it does it is invaluable!

Proven repair method with real World time proven results!

Bravo!!

Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I figure a little update on this project might be in order.
first to answer a couple of question that I had missed whilst on a samba hiatus. The sheet metal screw where only hold the panel in place while the Sem Weld-bond cured.

I originally did this project in 2008, the adhesive is still holding strong. And when I pulled my fridge last week for servicing I inspected the area am please to say that there is zero new rust and the POR-15 on the body panel and floor seemed to do the trick. 7 years and counting.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just glancing over this old thread.

I have this job to do also. What are the more experienced (especially experienced body guys) thoughts on glue vs welding this particular panel?
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WAgrower
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the screws were just used to hold the pannel in place while the glue dried, then removed. I think grinding the heads off would be a larger pia then removing them.

Hopefully someone with bodywork expertise will chime in... I'm a fiberglass guy so sheetmetal is new territory Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what I was referring to:

Quote:
After I was happy with the fit I used a few #6 sheet metal screws on the top edge and C- clamps on the bottom.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think he used screws to hold anything. He used a product called weld-bond and glued to panel in.

I'm no body expert but I would guess a screw with no head would be at risk of coming apart over time. Spot welds and adhesives seem to be the way to go.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad this thread was revived.

The OP screwed his panel on as well as glued. Are the screws necessary and would you grind the heads off after for appearances?
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark-
Thanks for the write up! I'm in the same boat as far as waiting to do a proper whole body paint job and rust crusade.

I think I'm going to leave the channel open. Then spray it with rust converter and primer and call it protected for a couple years. Also do the Inner frame of the door side with the Eastwood. I can say that inside those frames is covered in a wax and alot of caked on dust- or at least the one I cut open was. Don't know how much that will cut the effectiveness of the spray inside the frame I can't clean.

Thanks for the reply!
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My task was to only replace the fridge fan at the time. I will tackle the body work last, but I did need to attempt to slow the rust. I used a wire brush on my air 90 degree grinder to knock off the rust I could. I used a stick magnet to get as much loose rust from under the floor panel. I then sprayed all the rusted area with Eastwood rust encapsulator. The spray cans are easier to deal with. I then mixed up a couple tubes of JB weld and smeared the entire panel to fill the pits and to put back some strength.

I then sprayed the frame stuff from eastwood using all 4 factory holes that had the plugs. Working from both ends and then the middle two. I got enough in there that it ran out the bottom. One can was enough to do that frame member and the sliding door member. I then painted the entire area with rustoleum. I left the plugs out on purpose. Not sure why they are there, but I believe any moisture that might collect there, should run into the frame, where it can then run out on to the ground.

I put sound deadener on the inner wall along with insulation and reflectix. Last step was as I said above was to spray CRC soft sol a corrosion inhibitor. I was suprised that some actually weaped out the seams to the outside even on the sides. I used 4 layers of reflectix and it is off the floor panel.

When the time comes, I will probably have to cut it all out and do it right. I feel I have slowed the rust and was able to then put the fridge back in, the original project. Here are a few pictures. Not as glamorous as the above proper repairs, but I did not have to cut, weld, fit, finish, prime and paint. mark

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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WAgrower
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reviving an old thread, I've got the same issue with inside floor rust and some seam rust. However there is little to no evidence of seam rust from the outside so currently I'm not planning on replacing the rocker pannel, just the rusted floor inside (not really the floor, bit the top of the channel that runs along the side of the van- not sure what it's called...)

Rsxsr how did you like the Westwood inner frame spray? I ordered a can of that and a can of the new rust converter. Also did you put a new floor piece like the one shown in Bens photo?

I'm thinking of cutting out the rusted floor section, sealing it and leaving it open. Anyone see any issues? There are large drain holes that I think I should fill if I leave it open...

I've just started cutting so more investigation is underway.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott, yes I see it a picture is worth a thousand words. All the posts about kitchen and seam rust, and this is the first one I have seen with it actually repaired where the rust is the worst. Thank you for taking the time to post a picture and to reply. My floor is marginal in that area, and the outer panel including the rocker is in fairly good shape. I am going to treat the rust, paint and seal and then I am going to try an Eastwood product in an aerosol called Internal frame coating to blow into the area and see how it holds up until I am ready to do all of the body work. At least I understand what will be required to fix the area properly. I don't want to do something now that will complicate fixing it properly later. Thanks again. mark
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ScottN
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here you go- I'm not sure how much help this will be. It's been sprayed with epoxy primer and seam sealed so it's a bit hard to see.

I started by shearing a 3-1/2" x 48" strip of 20 gauge cold rolled steel. It was bent so that the edge that sits on the floor is 2" wide (leaving 1-1/2 against the side panel). The angle isn't 90 degrees. I made a quick template out of cardboard to give to the guy doing the bending.

It still took a bit of tweaking on my end to get it to fit well- the original panel has a slight curve to it. But a bit of trimming to allow access to the drain plugs on the floor and on the ends to fit around the door pillar finished it off. The side of the van is nice and solid now.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Hope this helps.

-Scott
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ScottN, do you have a picture of the peice you bent up and fitted inside? Thank you.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:28 pm    Post subject: Delete it! Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Heres a pic of my recent resto. I used multiple layers of epoxy fiberglass to delete the utility inlets completly. Also replaced the fridge (12V only) and deleted that hole too. While I was at it I deleted the antenna hole, rear wiper (never worked that well) and (we dont need no stinking) badge holes as well.I wanted to eliminate as many paths for water entry into the body as possible. I figured I never used the utility inlets anyway. I do have to fill the water tank from the inside and I put in a marine 120 inlet and a powered antenna. I've plugged the stuff before but for those places where I suspect small leaks I've applied Capt Tollys Creeking Crack Cure, great stuff, it sealed up my problem skylight like a champ. I put a bit on the windsheald seal too.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the side panel a while back on my restoration project. It helps to have something to push against while gluing things up so that there's an even thickness of adhesive and no deformation. A 2x8 clamped to the wheel wells and some wood wedges worked for me. Here's a photo. I glued up, set the wedges and pushed from the inside. (the bottom edge is easy to clamp). Later I had a piece of 20 gauge steel bent to brace the inside and glued it in too. Good luck!
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-Scott
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I think I found the answer on Ben's website. He is adding a peice of sheet metal from the replacement skin peice to the main floor structure. Mine is not as bad as the one he is working on, so it looks like I can cut and add a peice if I choose. Here is the photo I found.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:19 am    Post subject: Re: Thread resurection. Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
Hello, I have been searching and reading all of the seam rust and rust behind the kitchen threads. I pulled my fridge from my 82 to replace the cooling fan. I know all the ways to treat the rust etc, but have a question about the above replacement panel. What are you doing about the area between the outer skin panel and the interior floor that is actually rusted out?

As best I can tell, the factory seamed the lower rocker section and the side panel. It looks from Ben's website the lower rocker panel is what created the "short" floor section between the outer skin and the actual floor. Is this peice just "omitted" when installing the replacement panel?

Thank you mark


I've got this repair and more pressing, the sliding door track. Does anyone have a thread for this?
Al
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great resurrection post and timely as I will be tackling this project in the next few days as well.

I haven't looked behind my interior panel yet, but I know for sure that it will be rotten through and through. Sad
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:28 am    Post subject: Thread resurection. Reply with quote

Hello, I have been searching and reading all of the seam rust and rust behind the kitchen threads. I pulled my fridge from my 82 to replace the cooling fan. I know all the ways to treat the rust etc, but have a question about the above replacement panel. What are you doing about the area between the outer skin panel and the interior floor that is actually rusted out?

As best I can tell, the factory seamed the lower rocker section and the side panel. It looks from Ben's website the lower rocker panel is what created the "short" floor section between the outer skin and the actual floor. Is this peice just "omitted" when installing the replacement panel?

Like most of us, a simple project usually takes us on a path we were not ready to go down at that time. My plan was at some later date strip the van down and address all the body work at one time. I'd like to just address the rust in this area for now. I ended up removing the stove/sink cabinet to have better access. I can grind, clean, and rust prevent what is there. The short floor panel peice has some rust through in places, but is fairly intact. I could then come back when I am ready to do all the body work and deal with it properly.

My other choices are to just cut out the narrow floor section leaving the seam lip on the outer skin. This would give me better access to clean and treat the rocker panel area which is still solid and the main floor area. Another option would be to cut a peice of sheet metal or even aluminium and using the "weld adhesive" install this directly over the rust treated floor section. There is a fairly stout welded lip on the main floor that looks like it would have had the interior panel attached to it on a passenger van. Any insight to how the section of rusted floor is addressed when the replacement panel is used would be helpful. Thank you mark
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