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DIY - Red Tek conversion
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pete000
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just spent the last hour trying to source some of that "air line dryer alcohol" The truck stops I contacted said it was no longer available in CA. They recommended trying Acetone. ?

Any one find any yet? I am stumped.
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markz2004
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a can of it at NAPA for about $4.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Acetone sounds like a nasty answer to me... if you use that make sure you wear your hazmat suit. Acetone is a great solvent, but use it with care... I'm going to find the stuff Terry recommends.
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pete000
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stopped at NAPA on the way home from work and this was all they had.

$39.00 !!!!

Did I get the right stuff or did I just get ripped off ?

I just can't find any of the brake line flush Terry recomends any where.

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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For $39.00 you didn't get ripped off at all.
They stripped you butt naked and sent you out the door without a tube of preportaion-H.

Call Mack Truck , Peterbuilt, Kenworth, Western Star, Volvo, Sterling, Diamond -T, Brockway, Marmon, any class 8 truck dealer if NAPA doesn't have it.

I don't have a clue why denatured alcohol would be outlawed on the left coast--
Nuts-

The quart of air dryer alcohol shouldn't be more than 5 bucks a quart.
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Last edited by Terry Kay on Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 pm; edited 3 times in total
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r39o
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

markz2004 wrote:
I bought a can of it at NAPA for about $4.
What is the NAPA part number?????
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pete000
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll return it in the morning, sounded a bit like a rip off to me.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry Kay wrote:
I don't have a clue why denatured alcohol would be outlawed on the left coast--
Nuts-


Acetone is nastier stuff than alcohol, even denatured alcohol...

Quote:
The quart of air dryer alcohol shouldn't be more than 5 bucks a quart.


Would denatured alcohol do as well, or does the air brake stuff have some other secret ingredient? This process removes "snot" and moisture, right? Is it better to do it right before you're ready to evacuate and recharge? I'm sure doing it any time is better than not doing it at all... I just wonder if there's a benefit to buttoning up the A/C shortly after running the cleaner through.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use mineral spirits when I flush mine. Any solvent is going to be evacuated when you pull a vacuum on the system to check for leaks.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can we get back for a moment to the issue brought up by Hiram6 and Volksaholic about replacing all the A/C lines, because the comments about cost have got me worried. I'm thinking of taking DogPilot's advice on this one and reusing the original connectors whenever possible. So what's a reasonable price for an A/C shop to charge for the raw hose and crimping onto the existing connectors?
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funagon
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A leaky system might be leaking from any of the A/C components. I would want to figure out where the leak is before replacing all the A/C lines. I imagine leaks are most likely from an old o-ring at one of the fittings. You can have a shop vaccum the system, and test for leaks,too. If you have a small leak you might want to consider Red-tek LeakStop or ProSeal products.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Updated plan based on all the really good feedback.

To better set the stage, the AC I am converting works, but not great. There are additional items that could be done to better and completely overhaul the AC system, but the goal for this listing is more of a balance between effort, investment, and improved results.

1 - buy a new receiver drier & expansion valve
2 - buy replacement o-ring kit from FLAPS (NAPA has kit which uses green colored o-rings and is called the R134 replacement o-ring kit)
3 - buy brake air line anti-freeze (for blowing through lines and removing moisture). Available at FLAPS
4 - buy items from Red Tek. Red Tek “Kit” containing, 2 cans of refrigerant, 1 can “Pro Seal” and adaptors which fit over the original R12 valves, and filler hose. Also purchase 1 can “Leak Stop” (2oz) and can of oil and one additional can of refrigerant. Confirm on Red Tek help line the proper volume of refrigerant to purchase. Call Red Tek #888-676-9380 to confirm order and plan.
5 - have system professionally evac'ed of remaining R12.
6 - clean evaporator by blowing dust off, check elsewhere
7 - remove old receiver drier
8 - remove oil from compressor and lines (blow through)
9 - put brake line anti-freeze in lines and blow lines in both directions making sure to blow where receiver drier was connected as well. Excessive moisture and ‘snot’ should be expelled.
10 - install new receiver drier & expansion valve, and o-rings for these fittings.
11 – pull a vacuum in the lines (using cheapo harbor freight version on low pressure side). Could also pull vacuum and let sit for several hours / overnight to confirm vacuum will hold. Use gauge to confirm starting and ending vacuum.
12 – release vacuum from AC system, such that it is now at normal atmosphere.
13 - add oil (2-3oz - low pressure side) may need to do this step after step #14
14 – add new Red Tek fittings over old fittings on compressor (remove when completed see #22)
15 - add 1 can Red Tek (low pressure side)
16 - add 1 can Red Tek “Pro-Seal” (low pressure side)
17 – add 1 can Red Tek “Leak Stop” (low pressure side)
18 - run a/c for 5 minutes to get oil and pro-seal throughout the system.
19 – hook-up pressure gauge (low side - the gauge I will be using fits between the a/c fittings on the compressor and the can of coolant)
20 - add remaining refrigerant (low pressure side) while compressor is running until the pressure is about 30psi (low side). Float cans of Red Tek in warm water to help get all the contents out.
21 - check pressure: At idle - 30psi low side, 200psi high side. At 1500rpms – 25psi low side, 200psi high side
22 – remove new fittings, as some have found they leak overtime, and save for later recharges.

Thanks to every one for their input. I have a couple of notes.
• Consider not replacing the expansion valve as it is difficult to change and system seems to work ok.
• Some directions are listed on the Red-Tek website.
• Total cost of items from Red Tek is about $80 prior to shipping charges being applied.
• Other suggestions include placing a thermometer in the vents prior to and during procedure such that change in air temperature can be use as a performance indicator.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

<<I use mineral spirits when I flush mine. Any solvent is going to be evacuated when you pull a vacuum on the system to check for leaks.>>

John,
I don't wanna debate what you have used in your AC system to clean the system prior to pulling a vaccuum.

Here's what I know what works.

Semi Truck air brake system dryer alcohol.

It will leave no trace of oils or moisture in the system.
It'll make the evac process much easier, as the alcohol has not only rinsed out the fouled lines, condensor, evaporator, the expansion valve, and the dryer, and sucked up any moisture in the system.
Mineral Sprits won't dry up or absorb moisture in anything.

Your blowing an oily substance into a close system with no drying properties whatsoever.
Oiling up the desecant in the dryer is a no-no, and an evac will not suck that outa the pellets in the dryer.

Use nothing more than air dryer alcohol or that $39.00 fancy AC system cleaner ONLY!
( which is nothing more than alcohol)

Do not use acetone ever in an AC system.

You want to see your antique hose liner's fall apart and start plugging things up--go ahead and do the acetone mambo--

Got some spare cash laying around?
You'll be replacing everything in your AC system in no time.

I've mentioned the alcohol wash, only because I've been doing this proceedure for years, trucks of all sizes & sorts , cars, heavy equipment & farm machinery and it has proven to be an effective pre- evac , and filling technique.

Plus folks here have told me straight out this technique has proven to remove some ungodly snot out their systems, and they all are blowing cold air they have never yet appreciated in their Vanagon's.

Case Closed.
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Last edited by Terry Kay on Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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pete000
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry,

Do I have to remove the receiver dryer prior to flushing out the system? I have a new one to install along with new R134 seals.

Do I just unhook one of the AC lines and pour in some of this megga expensive cleaner in the line and then blow it through with an air hose?

If so at what pressure?

Does the cleaner hurt the compressor?

Thanks for the help, I have never done this before.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

<<Do I have to remove the receiver dryer prior to flushing out the system? I have a new one to install along with new R134 seals. >>

No, not at all.


<<Do I just unhook one of the AC lines and pour in some of this megga expensive cleaner in the line and then blow it through with an air hose?>>

Both.

How can you blow the snot out of the syetem with one line hooked to the compressor?
Drop them both, pour a quart of the air line alcohol in the high side, blow it through the high side hose till it blasts you on the disconnected low side hose with the snot.

Reverse the proceedure--pour the alcohol in the low side and blow it out till it comes out of the high side hose.

Reconnect, evac, & fill.


<<If so at what pressure?>>

What kinda pressure you got?
100lbs?

That'll work.

<<Does the cleaner hurt the compressor?>>

It'll Never get close to the compressor with both lines off of it.
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Last edited by Terry Kay on Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any maintenance to be done on the compressor if it has not been used in a while?
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How old is the compressor?

Ever dumped the old oil outa it and changed it?

It'd sure be a good idea if it's got big hours on it.

Wouldn't hurt to adjust the belt either.
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Last edited by Terry Kay on Mon Apr 28, 2008 6:37 am; edited 1 time in total
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pete000
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info.

I am going to borrow a vac pump and the AC gages from a friend at work. Might just do the flush and grab a few cans of 134 and see how long it works.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldnt put r134 in your r12 wbx system at all. IT IS CORROSIVE & your system materials NOT compatible. It will run under a higher head pressure (not good) & may even work fairly good for a short time BUT i will guarantee it to come back & bite u. Blackened site glass,compressor & evaporator usually in that order with maybe a blown hi-side hose if still old ones. I have seen several done & ALL ended up in a mess -re-do it all correctly. I would recommend RED-TEK as it works well with slightly lower hd press than r12.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't run anything thru the drier, I use a new one. I just blow out the lines, evap, and condensor. That brake dryer stuff sounds great, when I did mine I had to figure all this crap out on my own with no guidance. My system blows very cold.

I strongly recommend you drop the unit in the back, there is a load of garbage in the fins and in the drain hoses you need to clear out. It's not as bad as you fear, but that sucker is heavy so have a 2nd set of hands to help out. Get some milk crates or something to hold it up, after you have lowered it down a foot or so to gain access for your cleaning.

Just vacuuming out the dust clogging the fins a couple times a year will help a LOT in keeping you cool.

John
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