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ChesterKV
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2005
Posts: 1725
Location: El Cerrito, CA
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 Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 8:21 pm Post subject: Re: Day 18, 19, 20 Progress |
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| ranchero wrote: |
Day 18, 19, 20 Progress
I owe an update on this...to come |
No worries dude............ just keep going.
- Chester
_________________
1984 Wolfsburg 7-passenger stock sunroof
1992 Subaru Legacy EJ22 boxer motor installed.... van is now sold.... currently playing with a 1987 Toyota MR2 with 1.6 liter twin-cam motor. Better than the Subaru boxers....... I'm impressed. Well, okay, in an "apples and oranges" kind of way.  |
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ranchero
Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2006
Posts: 359
Location: Salida, CO
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| Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 8:35 pm Post subject: Day 21 Progress |
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Day 21 Progress
My new two favorite numbers are P0328 and P0335! Those are the codes the Subaru ECU threw as I started up the van tonight!
I am still waiting for my new power steering lines to show up, so I decided to start the engine without the PS/Alt belt. Took several attempts. At first it would crank, but not start. Double-checked all connections. Confirmed fuel by pulling off a fuel line ---OK. Called Tom to ask about the grey/white wire from Subaru harness going to black box that was left without a mate. Still didn't figure out that one. Checked spark once Mrs Ranchero got home. OK. Hmm, let's revisit that fuel connection I was sure about. There are two fuel lines - the input - going to the fuel rail, and the return which is attached to the regulator. I was sure I had them right, but I had them backwards. Reversed them and started right up!
Now tomorrow I'll have to investigate those codes.
P0328 = Knock sensor circuit high input
I installed a new knock sensor a few days ago - mine was missing. There was only one wire going to that sensor. I installed that with an allen head bolt.
P0335 = Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
not sure what this is. The connector doesn't seem to lock on securely. It seems like the engine would't work if the sensor connection were bad but...
Any ideas on this stuff?
_________________
'90 Westy Syncro EJ25 (money pit #1)
'96 FZJ80 (cheap by comparison^^)
'13 Golf R. Daily driver. |
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ChesterKV
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2005
Posts: 1725
Location: El Cerrito, CA
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| Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 9:36 pm Post subject: Re: Day 21 Progress |
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| ranchero wrote: |
Day 21 Progress
My new two favorite numbers are P0328 and P0335! Those are the codes the Subaru ECU threw as I started up the van tonight!
I am still waiting for my new power steering lines to show up, so I decided to start the engine without the PS/Alt belt. Took several attempts. At first it would crank, but not start. Double-checked all connections. Confirmed fuel by pulling off a fuel line ---OK. Called Tom to ask about the grey/white wire from Subaru harness going to black box that was left without a mate. Still didn't figure out that one. Checked spark once Mrs Ranchero got home. OK. Hmm, let's revisit that fuel connection I was sure about. There are two fuel lines - the input - going to the fuel rail, and the return which is attached to the regulator. I was sure I had them right, but I had them backwards. Reversed them and started right up!
Now tomorrow I'll have to investigate those codes.
P0328 = Knock sensor circuit high input
I installed a new knock sensor a few days ago - mine was missing. There was only one wire going to that sensor. I installed that with an allen head bolt.
P0335 = Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
not sure what this is. The connector doesn't seem to lock on securely. It seems like the engine would't work if the sensor connection were bad but...
Any ideas on this stuff? |
Sweet news.... I wish I could help you with the codes but.... I can't... 
It'll be exciting to hear about your first drive test. What's your wager with Mrs. Ranchero regarding getting the van running in thirty days?
Inquiring minds ya know ?
- Chester
_________________
1984 Wolfsburg 7-passenger stock sunroof
1992 Subaru Legacy EJ22 boxer motor installed.... van is now sold.... currently playing with a 1987 Toyota MR2 with 1.6 liter twin-cam motor. Better than the Subaru boxers....... I'm impressed. Well, okay, in an "apples and oranges" kind of way. |
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Volksaholic
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2005
Posts: 1771
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
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| Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 8:39 am Post subject: |
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Yes... congrats... it sounds like you're basically there (close enough to win the bet if your P/S hose comes in).
I did a little reading last night about the knock sensor code because I suspect mine in the Outback needs replacing. I didn't find anything conclusive, and no definition about what a the "high input" vs. "low input" codes meant. The couple things I came across, one which I had already mentioned, are:
- The knock sensor is sensitive to being properly torqued. It sounds like low torque can be bad and high torque can be fatal
- The mount point should be clean because that's the sensor's ground
- The procedure says to clean the bolt threads and (I think) the bolt hole before installing the sensor
- The alignment relative to the block is important: I think I saw that it should be about 45º off parallel to the crankshaft
- You can plug a 500 ohm resistor between the sensor wire and ground to dummy up the sensor and see if you can eliminate the error code. That will at least verify that it's not a wiring or ECU problem.
I finally got around to tearing down my engine to the block last weekend and I noticed that my knock sensor wire going to the big engine-to-car wiring harness connector has been pulled loose from its terminal. It's on one of the outside edges of the connector and may be vulnerable to that, so you may have a sketchy connection going back to the ECU. I'm going to see if I can pull the terminal from the connector and reattach the wire, and if that fails just crimp a spade or bullet connector directly to the wire and jumper around the main harness connector. I guess I could get another engine wiring harness, but the rest of it is in such good shape I don't want to replace the whole thing.
_________________
1988 Wolfsburg Edition, 2001 Subaru EJ251 |
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ranchero
Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2006
Posts: 359
Location: Salida, CO
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| Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 9:02 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Chester and Volksaholic. Feels good to be close. I found a great site that lists OBD-II codes and suggests diagnostics to address them.
http://glasairproject.com/library.html
I'll definitely check the torque and position on the knock sensor. My sensor wiring was exactly as you described yours Volksaholic - the connector had been stripped off leaving just a small female spade connector. I read somewhere that the sensor may be sensitive to insulation - specifically the insulation that the plastic connector provides.
_________________
'90 Westy Syncro EJ25 (money pit #1)
'96 FZJ80 (cheap by comparison^^)
'13 Golf R. Daily driver. |
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Volksaholic
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2005
Posts: 1771
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
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| Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 9:38 am Post subject: |
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| ranchero wrote: |
| My sensor wiring was exactly as you described yours Volksaholic - the connector had been stripped off leaving just a small female spade connector. |
Actually my problem is at the other end of that wire, but I was having trouble trying to describe it. The white 2 wire plug (only 1 wire is used) on the sensor end is intact, as is the knock sensor. The other end of that wire goes into one of those 2 big connectors that connect the engine harness to the ECU harness. It's been pulled from the terminal on that big connector leaving just a short bare wire. The only reason I mentioned it is that it's on an outside edge of one of those connectors and it may be that it's susceptible to getting yanked.
It may be worth doing an end-to-end continuity test from the terminal you had hanging loose to the ECU to make sure there are no other broken or weak connections, or try the 500 ohm resistor to see if the problem is in the wiring/ECU or the knock sensor installation itself.
_________________
1988 Wolfsburg Edition, 2001 Subaru EJ251 |
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GeorgeL
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2006
Posts: 7346
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| Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 10:17 am Post subject: Re: Day 21 Progress |
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| ChesterKV wrote: |
| It'll be exciting to hear about your first drive test. What's your wager with Mrs. Ranchero regarding getting the van running in thirty days? |
I hope the bet is well defined...
Engine running...
Moving under own power...
Completely done... |
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ftp2leta
Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2004
Posts: 3271
Location: Montreal
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| Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 6:06 pm Post subject: Re: Day 21 Progress |
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| ranchero wrote: |
Day 21 Progress
Now tomorrow I'll have to investigate those codes.
P0328 = Knock sensor circuit high input
I installed a new knock sensor a few days ago - mine was missing. There was only one wire going to that sensor. I installed that with an allen head bolt.
P0335 = Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
not sure what this is. The connector doesn't seem to lock on securely. It seems like the engine would't work if the sensor connection were bad but...
Any ideas on this stuff? |
P038 can be a ghost code, reset ECM with OBD or unplug this one for 10 minutes. KS and CPS use the same power source... check continuity from sensor plug to ground and to ECU. Find the shematic to know what pin to check.
P0335, if the CPS was bad, the engine would not run. If you have cranked the engine with those disconnected, it's normal that you have those codes. Reset ECM. If still there, bad ground.
You should have around 9 to 11 code, all are ok. I can give you a list of normal codes.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
Good luck
Ben
CPS never go wrong,but cam sender do sometime.
_________________
Working with rust, grease, dirt and dust is a sad truth.
------------------------------------------------------
FI part for sale: http://www.benplace.com/parts_sale1.htm
My site: http://www.benplace.com/vw2.htm
Subi conversion: http://www.benplace.com/vanaru_eng.htm
Youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/ftp2leta |
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ranchero
Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2006
Posts: 359
Location: Salida, CO
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| Posted: Fri May 23, 2008 10:45 pm Post subject: Day 22 and 23 |
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Day 22 and 23.
Still haven't received the power steering hoses in the mail, so no drive yet. 8 days from Canada so far. Had Tom's stuff in about 4 days. Still... Had to start it up a few times to hear the sweet sounds!
Here is some catch-up reporting....
Day 21 Gauges and wiring.
Check engine light. Attached the CEL wire from the Subie harness to pin 7 of the round connector in the black box. Then clipped the Bl/G wire going to pin 14 of the instrument cluster and attach the yellow wire originally going to pin 12 to pin 14 on the instrument connector. This is all you have to do if you have an LED present for the OXY counter (which isn't used) in later model vans. I had understood that later ones don't have the LED but mine did.
DOPS
Then disabled the DOPS system by running wire from Pin 12 of the instrument cluster connector to ground.
Gauges
I installed the oil pressure, water temp and voltmeter gauges. Ran the wiring up the driver's side wiring run, then up behind the radiator, behind the driver's headlight and through an existing hole into the dash area. Followed tencentlife's advice and got ignition-switched power for the instruments from G2 and the gauge lighting (connected to dimmer switch) from G8 on the back of the main fuse panel.
Wired that all up nicely.
Swapped snorkel from passenger to driver's side. I thought this was going to be a bear, but took only about 10 minutes. Pulled most of the snorkel out the bottom. Looks like it will be easy to connect to the Subaru air filter housing too.
This is looking through passenger taillight hole to see snorkel coming out the bottom
Snorkel going up into driver's side
Snorkel installed in driver side. Note that on the passenger side the snorkel faces backwards. It faces forward on the driver's side. Ram Air!
Day 23
Reinstalled the axle shafts.
Installed VSS. Here you can see the red LED light up as the magnet passes by.
Bled the clutch.
Remaining tasks:
Install power steering lines
Tidy up wiring harness.
Fabricate a tube to connect air filter with air intake.
drive it.
_________________
'90 Westy Syncro EJ25 (money pit #1)
'96 FZJ80 (cheap by comparison^^)
'13 Golf R. Daily driver. |
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vwsyncroguy
Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2004
Posts: 242
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| Posted: Sun May 25, 2008 3:12 pm Post subject: Re: Day 7 Progress |
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Ben need some tips...photos (??) on adapting the Subaru high pressure PS hose to the VW. The Subaru HP hose normally goes to the rear on the the left side....no problem crossing over the tranny with an adapter line on a 2WD but on a Syncro, the gas tank in in the way.
Where do you route the HP Suby line??
Warren Chapman |
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ftp2leta
Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2004
Posts: 3271
Location: Montreal
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| Posted: Sun May 25, 2008 3:40 pm Post subject: Re: Day 7 Progress |
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| Quote: |
Ben need some tips...photos (??) on adapting the Subaru high pressure PS hose to the VW. The Subaru HP hose normally goes to the rear on the the left side....no problem crossing over the tranny with an adapter line on a 2WD but on a Syncro, the gas tank in in the way.
Where do you route the HP Suby line??
Warren Chapman |
Heeuuuu... on that picture:
http://www.benplace.com/yvan/subi_yvan2.jpg
Look carefully Warren, you see the HP hose on the pump, it's going toward the back, behind the overflow tank and to the left... on the same picture you see it connect to the VW metal line. It's long enough to reach the HP metal line. All you need is a small adaptor in between the Subi line and the metal line. I don't know why anyone would go on the left side???
Maybe on the older engine... ??? sorry, i don't remember if 2.2L or early 2.5 SOHC engine have long enough PS HP hose.
What i'm sure is that 05-07 hose have enough length!
Send me an e-mail daytime to remind me, i will take a good picture of everything.
Ben
_________________
Working with rust, grease, dirt and dust is a sad truth.
------------------------------------------------------
FI part for sale: http://www.benplace.com/parts_sale1.htm
My site: http://www.benplace.com/vw2.htm
Subi conversion: http://www.benplace.com/vanaru_eng.htm
Youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/ftp2leta |
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ranchero
Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2006
Posts: 359
Location: Salida, CO
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 7:30 pm Post subject: Day 28 - clutch |
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Day 28....
I received the power steering hoses yesterday and installed them today. I got the hoses from Frank Condelli. They fit perfectly. I ran a quart of ATF through the system as per Frank's instructions.
Then installed the PS/Alt belt and started up. No current from the alternator. Dead. OK, so there is another $160 I hadn't planned on. Ordered a new one should be here tomorrow.
Took the van off the jackstands for the first time in 28 days.
Then ran into another problem - the clutch. It will not fully engage. With the engine running, I can't shift into any gear. If I stop the engine and then shift into a gear, I can depress the clutch, start the engine and can drive the van, but no shifting. So it seems like the slave cylinder is not fully engaging the clutch. I bled the system a week or so ago and then 3-4 times today. No luck. Then used a vacuum bleeder. Still no better. I should note that all worked perfectly before the swap. After reading the archives, I'm thinking that I might have an issue with the slave cylinder. So I'm thinking that I'll order one of those tomorrow. I know the slave was replaced sometime in the last several years. I wish I knew how far the clutch lever is supposed to travel. Anyone know? Any opinions on the whether I should replace the slave or look elsewhere?
The good news is that it sounds sweet. I let it run for about 5 minutes - temps got up to about 150 at idle. Can't wait to really drive it.
_________________
'90 Westy Syncro EJ25 (money pit #1)
'96 FZJ80 (cheap by comparison^^)
'13 Golf R. Daily driver. |
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wcdennis
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2004
Posts: 955
Location: Winston-Salem NC
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 7:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Before you trash that alternator, have it tested (most parts stores will test it for free). It could just be a wiring issue. You may also know, that on a Westfalia conversion the alternator light will stay on because of the Fridge relay. Are you sure you were not getting any charge? |
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ranchero
Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2006
Posts: 359
Location: Salida, CO
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks WCDennis. I should have noted that I have installed a voltmeter. Doesn't go past 12 volts no matter how high I rev it. Also tested with a multimeter. I'm wondering about the charge light issue, but I think that I deleted all the stock westy fridge relay stuff when I installed a Surepower battery isolator. I'll have to check into that.
| wcdennis wrote: |
| Before you trash that alternator, have it tested (most parts stores will test it for free). It could just be a wiring issue. You may also know, that on a Westfalia conversion the alternator light will stay on because of the Fridge relay. Are you sure you were not getting any charge? |
_________________
'90 Westy Syncro EJ25 (money pit #1)
'96 FZJ80 (cheap by comparison^^)
'13 Golf R. Daily driver. |
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GeorgeL
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2006
Posts: 7346
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| Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 7:42 am Post subject: Re: Day 28 - clutch |
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| ranchero wrote: |
Then ran into another problem - the clutch. It will not fully engage. With the engine running, I can't shift into any gear. If I stop the engine and then shift into a gear, I can depress the clutch, start the engine and can drive the van, but no shifting. So it seems like the slave cylinder is not fully engaging the clutch. |
The clutch is engaging fine, just not disengaging fully!
Considering that things worked fine before, I suspect that there is some small change in the geometry because of the adapter plate. It might be that the flywheel is a bit more aft (FIF) than the stock configuration. |
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GeorgeL
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2006
Posts: 7346
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| Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 10:51 am Post subject: |
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| ranchero wrote: |
| Thanks WCDennis. I should have noted that I have installed a voltmeter. Doesn't go past 12 volts no matter how high I rev it. |
Since you're already doing major transplants, see if you can find a Delco internal regulator alternator to fit your bracket. Alternators is one area in which you cannot beat domestic parts. $50 or so, brand new, as opposed to $130+ for a Hitachi or Nippondenso part. |
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vwsyncroguy
Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2004
Posts: 242
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| Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 12:20 pm Post subject: Re: Day 28 - clutch |
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| GeorgeL wrote: |
| ranchero wrote: |
Then ran into another problem - the clutch. It will not fully engage. With the engine running, I can't shift into any gear. If I stop the engine and then shift into a gear, I can depress the clutch, start the engine and can drive the van, but no shifting. So it seems like the slave cylinder is not fully engaging the clutch. |
The clutch is engaging fine, just not disengaging fully!
Considering that things worked fine before, I suspect that there is some small change in the geometry because of the adapter plate. It might be that the flywheel is a bit more aft (FIF) than the stock configuration. |
I doubt it's an issue caused by the adapter parts....i.e the adapter plate or flywheel. Unless there is a fault in your particular flywheel....there are hundreds of conversions with KEP and Smallcar flywheels with clutches that work fine after the conversion. In the early days of the conversion, there were some issues reported of clutch chatter....but haven't heard any of those for quite a while.
My own chattered, but I think it was due to my own error of not installing the pressure place correctly. 10,000 miles later, a new clutch, properly installed by a pro w/ a re-surfaced flywheel eliminated the problem.
Warren C.
Moderator
SubaruVanagon Yahoo Group |
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?Waldo?
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2006
Posts: 9752
Location: Where?
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| Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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| GeorgeL wrote: |
| Since you're already doing major transplants, see if you can find a Delco internal regulator alternator to fit your bracket. Alternators is one area in which you cannot beat domestic parts. $50 or so, brand new, as opposed to $130+ for a Hitachi or Nippondenso part. |
One time a decade or so ago I went to a local parts place and asked for an alternator for an '86 Isuzu I-mark. They came back with the box and told me it would be $180. Shocked, I told them I would hold off. One fellow went and put it back on the shelf while another asked me if there was anything else he could do for me. I asked if he had an alternator for an '86 Chevy Spectrum (same car re-badged) and was quoted $40 and change. I said I'd take it. He went and brought back the exact same box the other fellow had put on the shelf. 
Andrew |
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wcdennis
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2004
Posts: 955
Location: Winston-Salem NC
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| Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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| OK, I believe you are not getting any charge out of your alternator. Have you checked to to be sure you have 12V on the "exciter" wire when you turn the key on? If you don't have field current the alternator will not generate any power. |
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ChesterKV
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2005
Posts: 1725
Location: El Cerrito, CA
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| Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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My gut feeling is that there's a bad wire/miswire somewhere. Something simple going on between the little vw black box in the left corner (assuming you still have it), the alternator, and the starter.
Hopefully this won't be a big deal.
- Chester
_________________
1984 Wolfsburg 7-passenger stock sunroof
1992 Subaru Legacy EJ22 boxer motor installed.... van is now sold.... currently playing with a 1987 Toyota MR2 with 1.6 liter twin-cam motor. Better than the Subaru boxers....... I'm impressed. Well, okay, in an "apples and oranges" kind of way. |
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