Wideband Results

[Lingwendil]

Just ordered a Wideband- AEM 30-4110

I've got a Vintage Speed Sport muffler, can't remember if it has bungs in it for O2 sensors or not. I'll check when I get home.

However- how long are the wiring harnesses that the sensor uses on these kits? 7-8 feet or so I'm guessing based off of what I can see? I can't find a straight answer on any of the listings. Will I need to make up or buy an extension to reach the rear on a 73 Super Beetle? I'm likely going to run the gauge in a custom console on the top center of the dash.


This should be interesting. After losing two engines I was really dead set on investing in instrumentation this time around. I'll also be running a VDO oil temp and pressure gauge, and eventually maybe CHT.
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73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!

Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884

Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[W1K1]

Yes they vintage speed muffler has O2 sensor bungs in either end of the muffler. So you get eith the 1-2 or 3-4 reading, unless your meter is compatible with 2 sensors
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

[jeffrey8164]

My Vintage Speed has bungs on both ends. I went with a PLX gauge cluster and yeah my O2 sensor only came with a 10 foot cable but the cylinder head temperature sender I used can be ordered with a specific length wire.

I wish I never put gauges in my car. I could be blissfully driving it thinking it’s running great instead of being paranoid all the time. In my case, the car runs great but starts running hot. If I drive it like Granny it stays within a tolerable range but if I drive it like me it runs HOT.
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Turning owners into mechanics since 1938.

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[Chupa7hingy]

I have been dabbling with a few engine problems in a new 2074 my father in law built for my 65 Notchback. I apologize in advance if this has been discussed somewhere in the 109 pages (I was able to get through the first 25, and last 10 or so) for my posts seeming to be all over the place, but I think I am narrowing down the main culprit, which is these carbs, to a large extent.

Set up is a approx 9:1 compression 2074
Engle 110
AA big valve heads
HPMX dual 40s with 28 vents
approx 2800 ft elevation
timing is set at 27-8 total advance, mechanical advance only

I had been adjusting jetting because I was running hot and my oil temps would keep creeping no matter what kind of driving or ambient temps (hot for me was 240+ and I know the gauge might not be exact, but I'm looking at trends.) Plus, I know its hot because I'm discoloring the SS VS muffler.

After reading John's input on lean cruise, I decided to get an AF gauge (AEM) and I set it up in a box with aux battery, and plugged into the sensor bung on the 1/2 side of the muffler. This is what I'm pulling my hair out about now.

I started with Empi's recommended idle and main of 55 and 145 and the largest air I had was a 185. Way too rich all over, like in the 10s. So I put the stock 52 idles and 135 mains back in and started over. Better, but the leanest it would go was 13.1 on a decel and idle was super rich at 10.5

Thought something had to be wrong, so I pulled the tops and checked the floats. They did need adjustment and were set too low. I was excited to find this, hoping I found it, but that didn't change a thing on the follow up drive:
10.5 idle
12 ish cruise (light throttle)
10.5 WOT
13.5 decel.

I am thinking about going down to 50 or even 45 on the idles, but is that too small for a 2074? Am I overlooking something else, like fuel getting in some other way? Idle adjustment seems to be responsive and kills the cylinder. Faulty readings maybe? Valves not adjusted properly and fuel combusting in the exhaust instead of the cylinder?

BTW, my setup

[[email protected]]

Idle jet sizing has 0 to do with engine size, and everything to do with manifold vacuum (cam/compression). I'd start with 50s, but you may need 47.5s.

Re-read first 10 pages of this thread.
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[Chupa7hingy]

Thank you John. I was going down that path, but got spooked by the seemingly undersized idles compared to others I have seen posted here in relation to the very rich conditions my meter is showing. I actually have a notepad with my notes from the first 10 pages! I am shooting for lean cruising for heat control and a solid 13 for WOT or heavy load, just as you prescribe.

I think my troubleshooting is a little tainted by other symptoms such as running hot (IMO). Timing seems OK, so I've moved on from there (we cooked the last motor because of a faulty mechanical advance that let it go almost 60 degrees advance under certain conditions) so I'm a little gun-shy about heat. But getting the fuel right will likely address this (we thought it WAS right because it seemed to run so good, but obviously not). I have to resist changing more than one thing at a time. Smaller idles and some additional air jets on order. Should I keep the 185 air as a starting point, or should I start with 200s?

A part of me wants to START COMPLETELY OVER with actual Webers...

[[email protected]]

Engine temp has almost nothing to do with jetting (if you are rich, like you are). It's a cooling issue. Jetting is a separate issue.
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It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
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and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net

[W1K1]

[Chupa7hingy]

[oprn]

Just a thought here, your venturies may be too small causing the main circuit to come on too soon and doubling up the fuel with the idle circuit. I am running 31 vents on a 1911cc engine.

And yes 47 idles are where I ended up.

John will have a better handle on vent size required for your engine.

[[email protected]]

combustion temps and EGT are not necessarily directly related to engine temperatures.

And then it depends on which engine temperatures you are referring to. Oil temps are related to oil pressure and RPM.
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It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/vwpartsaircoolednet
and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net

[67 Sunroof]

Quick questions.
I have an A1 sidewinder exhaust with bung welded at the end where all primaries merge before the v-band clamp (before the exhaust)
What would be my best option to assist in tuning my brand new engine?
I would think it would help to tune it OUTSIDE the car on a stand?
The bung is located on the opposite side as the round A1 “badge” (it’s not pictured here)

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1776cc, CB crank, CB 2241 cam, CB light lifters, CB H-beam rods, CB light flywheel, Mahle forged pistons, A1 Sidewinder exhaust, Dellorto drla 40’s, Hoover modded case, fully balanced, fully flowed, heads by www.type-emotorsports.com, Air ride suspension by https://www.airkewld.com/?Click=3989

[oprn]

My opinion is that all you can really tune on the bench is the idle. You need to tune the rest under load.

[sled]

there is very little if ANY tuning that can be done accurately with the engine on a stand. Some folks tune using a dyno (under load) but this still does not simulate real world driving.


if you really want to tune your engine accurately, you will need an O2 sensor/AFR gauge and drive it on the street.


breaking in the cam/lifters can be done on a stand, but not much else.
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drive your split.

[67 Sunroof]

Ok appreciate it.
So what gauges should I be looking at? Aem for a/f and ? For O2?
Hmmmm, reading reviews on the AEM. Most say it’s doa and support sucks.
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1776cc, CB crank, CB 2241 cam, CB light lifters, CB H-beam rods, CB light flywheel, Mahle forged pistons, A1 Sidewinder exhaust, Dellorto drla 40’s, Hoover modded case, fully balanced, fully flowed, heads by www.type-emotorsports.com, Air ride suspension by https://www.airkewld.com/?Click=3989

[W1K1]

[Lingwendil]

Well, my order for the wideband got nuked by eBay support for potential fraud on the seller's side and the item is no longer listed I got a full refund at least.

Any suggestions on an affordable quality wideband other than the UEGO AEM unit? The more I'm reading on them the more it seems like they seem to go through O2 sensors more than I'd like.

Are the Innovate DB series or MTX-L series a good option?

Seems all of these are very similar in cost, so I guess it comes down to features and how easy they are to see. I'm leaning towards a DB red so it's not too distracting at night. I see the MTX-L has the ticker along the edge of the face for at a glance ease of reading.

California gas has 10% ethanol so I'll be using it in lambda mode.
_________________
73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!

Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884

Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[King_vw61]

go with the Innovative, and their data logger. I have the PLX for AFR and have had several issues with it. I have the Innovative for egt and it is spot on.
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1961 Ragtop, Autocraft 2783cc for street/strip 10k miles and counting...230.84 HP to the wheels thru Muffler 13.4 to 1 on E85
https://www.instagram.com/king_vw61/?hl=en

[clonebug]

I have a PLX with DM-6 gauge and it's been flawless for 6 1/2 years and 36,000 miles.
I have it installed all the time and it's still on the original O2 sensor.
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[67 Sunroof]

Yeah I’m with Ling. I had an OLD uego and went through 2 or 3 O2 sensors. It appears that MANY of the reviews state doa units and no service support.
That’s not what I want after spending $170 on the aem.
The data log idea is nice. It’s hard to tune to a gauge that’s jumping around at different rpm’s. Isn’t the wideband supposed to alleviate the led’s jumping around soo much?
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1776cc, CB crank, CB 2241 cam, CB light lifters, CB H-beam rods, CB light flywheel, Mahle forged pistons, A1 Sidewinder exhaust, Dellorto drla 40’s, Hoover modded case, fully balanced, fully flowed, heads by www.type-emotorsports.com, Air ride suspension by https://www.airkewld.com/?Click=3989