Engine noise link to video included

Nor_AL_67

Posted in another forum with little response...

67 1500 SP: Fresh tune. Valves adjusted and checked 3 times (0.006). New muffler. Idles and runs great. Clicking (vavly) noise at idle, goes away at higher rpm. Does not go away when engine is warm. Just a worn engine.. rocker push rods worn....don't worry about it? Thanks for any responses.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPFYpBImmRs

Bashr52 · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 8:47 am Post subject:

Yah that sounds expensive......... have you tried running the car without the generator belt attached? Disconnect the belt and just run it at idle for a few seconds and see if the noise is still there, it will be apparent quickly with that thing.....

Nor_AL_67 · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 9:01 am Post subject:

MURZI · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 9:04 am Post subject:

Recheck the rocker arms, sometimes the outside clips can get pushed to the side and cause extra rocker side to side clearance.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Also are you sure you are adjusting the valves at TDC on each cylinder??

Pop the dist cap and check rotor position when you adjust each cylinder. Should correspond to what cylinder you are working on.
_________________
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2276
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71sbeetle · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 9:52 am Post subject:

you did the valve adjustment on a cold engine right (letting it sit at least overnight)

SRP1 · Samba Member Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 4340

Whats the history on the engine? Did the noise just pop up, or is this an ongoing thing?
Are you a new owner, and if so do you have any previous history?
I ask this because it sounds a lot like a bleed down hydraulic lifter.

Nor_AL_67 · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 10:20 am Post subject:

Thanks Murzi will check tonight. Valves adjusted cold and checked cold. TDC checked and verified by 3 methods, crank pulley (7.5deg left of 1st pulley notch), rotor aligned with dizzy mark, and the old pencil in cyl #1 method. I've had the car about 4 months. It has been sitting most of that time due to other stuff getting fixed/replaced (brakes, beam , etc. ). I think the noise was present when I bought it, but the muffler was bad so it was dominating the noise until it was replaced. Rocker pedestal bolts also checked and torqued.

If I pull a push rod is there any way to tell if it is chrom-molly or aluminum?

MURZI · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 11:01 am Post subject:

Nor_AL_67 · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 8:27 pm Post subject:

Ok, checked the rocker pedestal clips, all were tight and in the groove. What's next?

SRP1 · Samba Member Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 4340

How confident are you with the accuracy of the valve adjustment?

It's definitely more than just one valve clicking away there, any chance the valves where adjusted out of position or time, say 180* out at over lap?

Nor_AL_67 · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 9:32 pm Post subject:

I checked the valves 3 times. All were slight friction at .006 and could not fit the .008 gauge into the gap. Would it hurt the engine to adjust all at a loose 0* just to see if the clicking goes away (for say 20 seconds)?

What do you mean by 180* lap? Basically adjusted both I&E #1 (@TDC) and another for 2 and 4(can't remember if I or E), rotated 360* then adjusted I&E #3 and another for 2 and 4.

SRP1 · Samba Member Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 4340

Nor_AL_67 · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 9:45 pm Post subject:

Same thing maybe this is clearer:

TDC on #1 adjust both on 1, intake on 2 and exhaust on 4
Roll the engine 360 degrees,
TDC #3 adjust both on 3, the intake on 4 and the exhaust on 2.

Both are valid methods of adjustment.

timsvw · Samba Member Joined: September 07, 2004 Posts: 286

I don't know if this helps anybody figure this out but, if you watch the last part of the video when he turns the engine off, the last compression stroke spins the engine backward and you can hear the last "click".

I guess this means the noise isn't caused by any one cylinder and isn't just caused by the engine running forward.

Did this start right after you put the new muffler on? Did you check the tin around the crank pulley?

Nor_AL_67 · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 9:55 pm Post subject:

Good suggestion Tim, will check that tin. It was removed to replace the muffler.

65beeter · Posted: Tue May 06, 2008 7:29 am Post subject:

I'll have to get a sound clip but my engine is doing the exact same thing. I've checked rechecked and triple checked valve adjsutment and they are spot on. I've pulled the belt, still there. It doesn't go away warm or cold. The only difference is that mine is intermittent. It goes away at higher rpm's(or seems to my exhaust is crazy loud Mad

) but at idle it's sometimes there sometimes not. I am 99% sure mine is coming from the 3/4 side. I got under the car and it sounds as if it is coming from pushrod tube area Question

I don't think its a rocker arm clip but I'll have to double check. Lifter bore?

71sbeetle · Posted: Tue May 06, 2008 8:29 am Post subject:

wow you guys make it complicated lol.
here is how I do it, I guess there are a lot of different ways to do it.

TDC on #1, adjust I&E on #1, turn 180 counterclockwise and adjust I&E on #2, 180 ccw and I&E on #3 and then another 180 ccw and I&E on #4 Smile

SRP1 · Samba Member Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 4340

Yah....Thats a cool little pic. Laughing

71sbeetle · Posted: Tue May 06, 2008 8:40 am Post subject:

kolohe67 · Posted: Tue May 06, 2008 10:28 am Post subject:

Find out what area the noise is coming from with a long screwdriver or a broom stick. Place your ear on one end and the other end on the valve covers, fuel pump and other areas on the case with the engine running and see (hear) where it is the loudest. If it is coming from your valve area and everything is set as you say, maybe it is a loose valve guide. Or you could also run the motor with the valve cover off on one side at a time (messy stuff) for a short time and see what you can find.


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