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Inline-4 conversion: What VW engine?
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r39o
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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That manifold and those clamps bring back bad memories. Can you even get the tool in there to take the clamps off?
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nealcapener
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the starter a issue with the I4 in a syncro???

Neal
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jensjakob
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

I've just got myself a Vanagon with a Golf III 1.8I engine, gasoline, (1995 ABS).

I am wondering - in the enginebay there is only 1 expansion-tank, and no over-flow tank behind the service-flap.

To me it looks like the whole system is under quite high pressure when warm - compared to the standard WBX setup.

Does anyone have pictures of their setup with expansiontank-overflowtank or just expansiontank?

Happy driving

Jens Jakob
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the gas I4 VW engines in Vanagons I've seen, only have the one expansion tank. As does my conversion.

I think the extra tank on the WBX is there for "convenience" (easier access and AFAIK, not under pressure when engine up to temp)

(note: these are not the latest pics.... there have been mods made since then.... but coolant tank is the same)

Neil.


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regis101
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neil. Is the engine installed at the factory slant or more to fit the way it does. Thanks,
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No.

This is a 15* DIY install. Much more "upright" than the factory install of the DV engine.
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jensjakob
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:
All the gas I4 VW engines in Vanagons I've seen, only have the one expansion tank. As does my conversion.



Hi,

Great picture, thank you.

Where does the thin "overflow" pipe go from the top of your expansiontank?

As I have the stock "vanagon" expansion tank in my engine-bay, without the overflow-cap - I do not have that thin pipe.

Another question: What about oerpressure protection?
I know that on the Golf III - there is a 1.5 bar security valve in the cap on the front radiator - in an I4 conversion - where does overpressure go?

Happy driving

Jens Jakob
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jensjakob wrote:
Vanagon Nut wrote:
All the gas I4 VW engines in Vanagons I've seen, only have the one expansion tank. As does my conversion.



Hi,

Great picture, thank you.

Where does the thin "overflow" pipe go from the top of your expansiontank?

As I have the stock "vanagon" expansion tank in my engine-bay, without the overflow-cap - I do not have that thin pipe.

Another question: What about oerpressure protection?
I know that on the Golf III - there is a 1.5 bar security valve in the cap on the front radiator - in an I4 conversion - where does overpressure go?

Happy driving

Jens Jakob


The thin hose goes to the head. Coolant flows through this hose into the tank. So it isn't an "overflow" hose. Smile I don't have the WBX cooling system diagram handy, but I'm pretty sure the Jetta cooling system is somewhat different in terms of coolant flow/path. I "look at" my conversion (more or less) as a Jetta engine/cooling system in a Vanagon.

Overflow protection? Good question. One I thought of after most of the conversion was done Shocked Smile AFAIK, the valve on the cap of the expansion tank should suffice.

And I should clarify what I wrote:

"All the gas I4 VW engines in Vanagons I've seen, only have the one expansion tank. As does my conversion."

Should read:

"All the gas I4 VW engine *conversions* in Vanagons I've seen, ...... "
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r39o
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The little hose on all I4s from the late 70's to now all go to the upper radiator hose, typically at the radiator.

It is for coolant recovery and system air bleeding. These two tasks on the wbx are somewhat different. Bleeding is a royal pita in the stock wbx, as we well know. The wbx recovery is via the special cap. Maybe if you use an early tank with the same threads as a wbx, you could still use the wbx recovery system.

Sorry I don't know more. I was close to an I4 conversion myself, I have a 2L 16V and also an Audi 2L 8V engine, lots of I4 parts and knowledge from A series car engine swaps, but I am going Suby. I got the engine and parts are piling up. This thread just reminds me I still am not totally Suby but there are a few things that tilted the scales for me.....
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morymob
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have surfed thru many posts the past couple yrs on engine swaps etc.O all the things involve with changes(brands),costs and mostly the history of the ones i have owned i will stick with my 1.9. Its a long time driver(13 yrs) and mucho miles (320k+now). I have tweeked it probably to the max and ave 24-25on road kept around 65,mymax. A 84-GL 4-sp.195/75/14 tires and checked many times on trips i make of 500+miles visiting kids. Checked with other vehicles but my favorite stillold Blue. Has plenty pep and no one waits on me either,so my 2cts on a tough,hard to beat"old" tech engine,my wifes new Honda CR-V has big shoes to fill.
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jensjakob
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
I have wrapped my head around the towel, and re-analyzed.

On the Vanagon original setup - the reason that we have the overflow tank at the service plate - is that is should be easy to check the water level.

So basically - on the Vanagon - the overflow tank behind the serviceplate _is_ the expansion tank.

And the reason that the resoirvoir-tank in the engine-bay is filled to the brim, is that it is basically that -a resoirvoir.

So I understand that on the VW I4 engines, the expansion-tank and resoirvoirtank is the one and same thing.

When the engine is cold, fluid should be toppe to the max-mark.

When driving - well, fluid will expand and compress the air - thus it should rise above max-mark -if radiator is properly bleed?

If there are too much air in the expansion-tank - could be blown gasket blowing air into the system - and it cant escape?

But, a blown gasket - should allways be seen on the exhaust -or could there be a blowngaskett, without water in the oil, and without water in the exhaust?

Best regards

Jens Jakob
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boardrider247
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ebennett wrote:
I am coming down the home stretch here with my Vanagon conversion. I'm using a 2.0L bottom end with a 1.8L head and digifant FI

A special thanks to Bill W!

I've used all VW parts. Here is a list of diesel vanagon parts that I used;
trans bell housing
trans input shaft
clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing
flywheel
starter motor * hard to find
motor mounts
engine carrier bars
diesel coolant hoses * hard to find, check ebay
diesel coolant bottles
diesel oil pan and fill tube
diesel oil pump pick up tube

1992 Jetta A2 parts
Complete Cylinder Head
wire harness
intake manifold with throttle body
toilet bowl exhaust manifold & down pipe
all sensors, air, temp,

1996 Jetta (early OBD1 blocks are the best!)
Bottom end of engine 2.0L ABA
distributor
alternator
timing belt and tensioner
AC compressor
water pump
all belts and pulleys

So far the only custom mod I have needed is an exhaust.

I hope to have the electrical finished this weekend and be up and running by the end of this month.

i can't afford to have autobahn society to do the work for me so I have to do it myself


So just to clarify. You are using a diesel bellhousing on the waterboxxer transmission? For some reason I thought I had read before that this wouldn't work. But if it does thats great news.
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My inline-4 gas has the stock diesel hoses and two tanks, the stock vanagon expansion tank and the overflow tank.

Andrew
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oasis
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before some jackass tells me to search again which I did the first time and several times as a matter of fact, let me state my particular situation and what basics I need to know and/or get.

I do not want to debate the merits of one conversion over another. I am not a DIY'er. I have a VW-specialty shop willing to do the work. I have a '97 Jetta with an ABA engine. That is the engine I want to eventually use.

What are the basic parts or source I need for this conversion?

Is there a best year(s) Vanagon I should look to buy or years (besides air-cooled and diesels) I should avoid?

My searches have given me hundreds of threads of endless debates over other conversions, great ideas by DIY'ers, etc. I can narrow my searches to specifics once I know the basics. Reading the specifics is worthless to me at this stage, and hundreds of threads talking about specifics is a waste of time.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oasis wrote:


What are the basic parts or source I need for this conversion?

Is there a best year(s) Vanagon I should look to buy or years (besides air-cooled and diesels) I should avoid?



To physically mount the engine you will need the carrier bars, bellhousing, and oil pan from a diesel Vanagon. The carrier bars should be from an 83 rather than an 82 diesel since they mount the engine in the right position for the later style wasserboxer transmission location.

If you are using the ABA 2.0 engine complete, the intake manifold will hit the engine bay lid and you will need to modify it. You can also swap a non-crossflow head (from a 1.8 ) onto the ABA and this will allow everything to stay below the lid. It will also keep the coolant hose configuration standard so that you can use diesel hoses with no modifications. The ABA head has the water inlet relocated to the side of the head from the front, and would require some hose reconfiguring.

As far as fuel injection - you can either run the engine with the correct ABA Bosch Motronic system, or you can make things simpler by running Digifant from a Golf or Jetta II 1.8. Digifant is easier to hook up, and has less components, but the Motronic is a far superior system - so I would go that route.

Vanagon Nut (Neil) can tell you alot about this conversion since has done one, drives one, and documents all his work. You might send him a PM to get his thoughts.

Nobody is excited about a 2.0 inline swap these days. 115hp and 121 torque are only moderate improvements over the wbx, but there is nothing wrong with this swap. The engines are durable, economical and easy to get. The exhaust tends to be the biggest area of trouble on these, and it needs to be custom made. So make sure you study what has worked and what hasn't worked with exhuast systems for this conversion.

David
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Tank83
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there, we've just made a i4 conversion to my bus.

We used the AGG engine, it'a Golf 3 engine from 1995.
2.0 liter 8v 115hp.
This engine has a simos ecu & is obd compatible.

My bus was a diesel before, so we had nearly everything to make this conversion:

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oasis
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the responses, guys. I used to own an '85 Vanagon (1991-97) and loved it; eventually got a EuroVan poptop MV -- different animal, loved it, too. We have been without a vehicle of size for a few years and it has been annoying at times.

My wife is happy with her TDI Golf so that is out of the question since she doesn't want to upgrade to something newer. Selling my dad's Passat is something that will happen soon and the 1.8T would be a more potent offering, selling that car engine-less would be a harsh financial hit. We got the Jetta for our daughter because of the bulletproof-ness of the ABA, and can probably do okay parting out the Jetta's remains after that.

As for the pedestrian performance, I can live with that. We drove our '85 with its 1.9L round trip MD-to-FL twice plus other notable trips. The EuroVan was better for highway stuff, but was a bit lumbering around town. The ABA will be plenty powerful enough. I can get all of the speeding tickets I want with my Eos and my to-be-determined air-cooled car.

One repeat question: Does it matter which year Vanagon I am looking for?

One side question: Will the stock transaxle be fine? (I suppose a gearing upgrade can be looked into eventually, but I'm more on Step One so I'm necessarily looking into what's best ... yet.)

Thanks again.
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Tank83
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oasis wrote:

One repeat question: Does it matter which year Vanagon I am looking for?


Should be water cooled, air cooled to water cooled conversion is very hard.

If you want to convert to a i4 engine the best vanagon would be a diesel.

If you buy a boxer powered vanagon you will need to buy much parts to get a i4 fit into your bus.

oasis wrote:

One side question: Will the stock transaxle be fine? (I suppose a gearing upgrade can be looked into eventually, but I'm more on Step One so I'm necessarily looking into what's best ... yet.)


For which engine? The 3h gearbox is fine for the 115hp i4 conversion by the agg, ady or 2e angine.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

D Clymer wrote:

To physically mount the engine you will need the carrier bars, bellhousing, and oil pan from a diesel Vanagon. The carrier bars should be from an 83 rather than an 82 diesel since they mount the engine in the right position for the later style wasserboxer transmission location.


David


Is there a handy tip so that one can easily tell if they've got the carrier bars from one year or the other? If one has the earlier bars, is there a standard modification that fixes that issue?

Thanks,
Casey
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
D Clymer wrote:

To physically mount the engine you will need the carrier bars, bellhousing, and oil pan from a diesel Vanagon. The carrier bars should be from an 83 rather than an 82 diesel since they mount the engine in the right position for the later style wasserboxer transmission location.


David


Is there a handy tip so that one can easily tell if they've got the carrier bars from one year or the other? If one has the earlier bars, is there a standard modification that fixes that issue?

Thanks,
Casey

Easy way to get past that is to flip/modify the trans mount and cut 1 1/2 inch off the shift shaft.
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