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Can someone ID my engine and what it's missing?
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OG Velvet
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 7:09 pm    Post subject: Can someone ID my engine and what it's missing? Reply with quote

This engine has been in my 67 deluxe for several years. I've had it rebuilt once and it runs great. It originally came out of a 68 bug. Does that mean it's a 1600? The thing I'm most concerned about is the tin. Is this the correct tin for a 67 bus or is this bug tin? Like I said it has run great for a long time, but since I'm restoring the bus, I might as well get the engine correct. Here are some pics.

front view


Should there be a tube from the end of the oil bath to somewhere? I've never had anything.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



There is also a hole in the tin that nothing is going through. Should I replace this piece of tin or should something be running though that hole?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Should this be connected to something? There is oil all over the bottom of my engine, I am wondering if this is the source. Also there is a piece of tin here that protects the pushrod tubes. Should there be one on the other side?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the other side
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Any help is appriciated.

Thanks,
Brian
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're kidding, right?
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

J., he's not kidding. It's a bug engine with many incorrect parts.
Shameless plug for my brother. He has a correct Type 2 1500 that is a 66/67 engine with most of the correct parts you'd need and fairly close to the correct date code for you.
Engine is locate in Norcal and yes it's advertised in the classifieds.
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bmx2c4me
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hole in the tin is for pre-heated air intake for cold start-ups, diverted in the air cleaner via thermostat I believe (see pic)

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The tube from the oil breather should have one of these on it:

http://www.jbugs.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=311-541&Category_Code=

Or buy an engine from Dave's brother Laughing
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OG Velvet
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

j.pickens wrote:
You're kidding, right?


No. I'm not. I've been running this thing so long I have no idea what is correct or not.

I don't need to replace the motor. I am just looking to get the correct parts on it.
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since you asked,


1) a 68 beetle came with a 1500 engine. H case. dunno if that is actually the original motor to a 68 beetle, look up the numbers.
2) the oil bath gets a 1" pre-heat tube. I'm too lazy right now to find a pic. search for 'pre-heat' in the gallery. I've posted some pics
3) the tin is 68 and later for the 2" pre-heat. a 67 bus takes a 1" pre heat.
3.1) If you want to be anally correct you need the 66 1/2-67 bus rear tin with NO pre-heat tube holes. The pre-heat goes forwards and pipes off the heater box.
3.2) this means you need the front tin with the right side pre-heat hole through it. RARE shit to see.
3.3) you also need the right side heater box with the spout to feed the pre-heat pipe.
3.4) 67 and earlier buses did not have thermostaticaly controlled pre-heat system (too bad, it's a good idea)
3.5)check out the owners manual in the archives for pics, there should be something in there.
4) you also want to change the tin between the crank pulley and case to fit the 67 & earlier 1500 rear tin, or there'll be a nugly gap.
4) put a breather bootie on the oil breather tube.
5) you have the correct (straight down) oil breather tube
6) wash that oil engine. gosh!
7) the wire from carb to coil should be black. Black is beautiful. black means 15 - hot when ignition is on. Yawohl!
7.1) use the correct electical connectors, not those blue thingies. I buy the ones from Wiring Works.
8 ) you are missing the heat riser covers
9) you are missing the left small tin behind the cylinders. looks like the right one is there.
10) wrong bolt for clamp holding tube to top of carbarettor.
11) I don't like your generator nut.
12) I don't like your generator pulley. get a German one.
13) braided hose for breather to oil bath.

That pic of an engine somone posted is not a '68 bug, but a early bay bus. Aa '68 bug has a one year only air cleaner. It does have a 2" pre-heat
hope that helps.

Pre-heat is nice. Not just for cold start ups.

I probably missed some stuff.
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OG Velvet
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
Since you asked,


1) a 68 beetle came with a 1500 engine. H case. dunno if that is actually the original motor to a 68 beetle, look up the numbers.
2) the oil bath gets a 1" pre-heat tube. I'm too lazy right now to find a pic. search for 'pre-heat' in the gallery. I've posted some pics
3) the tin is 68 and later for the 2" pre-heat. a 67 bus takes a 1" pre heat.
3.1) If you want to be anally correct you need the 66 1/2-67 bus rear tin with NO pre-heat tube holes. The pre-heat goes forwards and pipes off the heater box.
3.2) this means you need the front tin with the right side pre-heat hole through it. RARE shit to see.
3.3) you also need the right side heater box with the spout to feed the pre-heat pipe.
3.4) 67 and earlier buses did not have thermostaticaly controlled pre-heat system (too bad, it's a good idea)
3.5)check out the owners manual in the archives for pics, there should be something in there.
4) you also want to change the tin between the crank pulley and case to fit the 67 & earlier 1500 rear tin, or there'll be a nugly gap.
4) put a breather bootie on the oil breather tube.
5) you have the correct (straight down) oil breather tube
6) wash that oil engine. gosh!
7) the wire from carb to coil should be black. Black is beautiful. black means 15 - hot when ignition is on. Yawohl!
7.1) use the correct electical connectors, not those blue thingies. I buy the ones from Wiring Works.
8 ) you are missing the heat riser covers
9) you are missing the left small tin behind the cylinders. looks like the right one is there.
10) wrong bolt for clamp holding tube to top of carbarettor.
11) I don't like your generator nut.
12) I don't like your generator pulley. get a German one.
13) braided hose for breather to oil bath.

That pic of an engine somone posted is not a '68 bug, but a early bay bus. Aa '68 bug has a one year only air cleaner. It does have a 2" pre-heat
hope that helps.

Pre-heat is nice. Not just for cold start ups.

I probably missed some stuff.


Awesome. Exactly the stuff I was looking for. Thanks Clara.
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joe cool
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crank pulley hub cover tin?
Vacuum line to dizzy? Oh, dizzy?
What's that thing that looks like a fuel filter between the pump and carb?
Just can't see the thermostat and flaps in the picture, right?
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malachai
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that flimsy plastic bubble full of petrol near your coil and distributor is a fireball waiting to happen, petrol+spark=walking home

clara what do you mean about the electrical connectors? the little spade ones? are the fully insulated ones the ones to use? I have no concept of Wiring Works but I'm sure we have something similar in l'angleterre
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 3:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

plus you should close that door or somebody will come and nick your beer
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
Since you asked,

6) wash that oil engine. gosh!


Laughing

A clean engine is a happy engine! Razz
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

malachai wrote:
that flimsy plastic bubble full of petrol near your coil and distributor is a fireball waiting to happen, petrol+spark=walking home


Does anyone have a picture of a properly installed "flimsy plastic bubble full of petrol"? I've got pretty much the same setup and want to make it right before I burn up. There was a picture floating around some time ago but now I can't seem to find it.
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weird. I just happen to have a '67 heater box and matching front tin that i'm not using.
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BDWannaB wrote:
malachai wrote:
that flimsy plastic bubble full of petrol near your coil and distributor is a fireball waiting to happen, petrol+spark=walking home


Does anyone have a picture of a properly installed "flimsy plastic bubble full of petrol"? I've got pretty much the same setup and want to make it right before I burn up. There was a picture floating around some time ago but now I can't seem to find it.


you fit it in probably the same way that you have fitted now, but put it behind the engine, get down and dirty under the bus and put it near the fuel tank, if you want to make life easier you could empty your petrol first, if you want to make life even easier that would be a good time to fit a cut off tap so that next time you need to change your filter you don't get so much petrol in your eyes/mouth/nose/belly button.

anyway, just move it to the other side of the engine, that way if your filter breaks or goes wrong somehow you will get petrol on the road and not on your sparky bits, you might still end up walking home but your bus will probably not be on fire
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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from owners manual:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/aug66bus.php

I personally like a fuel filter where I can see it. However, I understand other's concerns. I just don't like having gas pour on me.

Generally, if the fuel system is clean, the filter stays clean for ages. So maybe you don't need one. But if the system isn't clean, it can crud up the works, and once in a while you get some dirty gas.
I generally run more line, and make the filter lie sideways to the left of the distributor rather than right over it, so any junk actually stays in the fliter, rather than falling back into the pump. I loop the line it around the top of the coil.
Originally, VW didn't use those plastic filters. The screens were good enough, I guess.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If you look at the og wiring, or the connector at the end of the green wire from the condensor, they did not use those crimp on connectors with the blue things. You can buy new connectors like the og ones. I think it looks cleaner.

should a 67 have the push on terminals on the gen? or screw? Are you going to get a correct date coded generator?
How anally correct are you wanting to get?
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you meaning me or the guy who started this?

I'm not going to get that anal cos I have an alternator and a TP but I like the idea of having nice looking bits on the end of my wires. I also like the idea of not getting petrol in my face so I might change to your way when I get round to it
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could also ditch the big carb with all of the blocked off vacuum lines
and the cheap aftermarket fuel pump too if you were going more correct...
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a late 67 that is really complete and I have most of the 67 only stuff. The engine is the last frontier for me as far as the 67 only stuff goes. I am going to keep this motor because it has been a great runner and it has a lot of miles to go on it. I have looked up a lot of the info Clara suggested and most of my questions have been answered. I won't go 100% correct, but every thing you guys are saying is exactly what I was looking to know. (even the comments on the cheap ass chrome kit I put on years ago...I was 19... I have no excuses...) Here is the resto thread.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=268728&highlight=deluxe+resto

I am looking for shit to do while I'm collecting body parts for the rust repair work.

Thanks again for the comments.

Brian
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OG Velvet
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

House wrote:
You could also ditch the big carb with all of the blocked off vacuum lines
and the cheap aftermarket fuel pump too if you were going more correct...


What carb/ dizzy combo is correct for 67?

This is an 009 and a Solex H30/31 Pict. Has always run great.
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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as long as your going the distance, switch the fan belt to the correct smooth one
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