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Differences in ECU between the years?
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1977_L63H_P27
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Has anyone sniffed the mixture to see what it is?
Have you tested each diaphragm including the Automatic trans with a mityvac to see if they all hold vacuum? Done the brake booster test? Spayed the hose joints etc with a tiny touch of carb spray to see if there are any leaks? Checked compression and done a cyl balance test? Those are things I would do before spending too much time with it. Just a guess but my idle would be 1500 RPM if I opened that idle speed screw all the way open.


I don't think my bus has a vacuum powered modulater valve. If it does, it hasn't had vacuum hooked up to it for the two years we've had it.
And I can tell you right now it's running rich, but I haven't had it analyzed yet. No black smoke, but the smell out of the exhaust will knock you down Razz.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

then lean it a turn on the screw by opening (counter-clockwise) and see if the RPM increases. If it does then that is why it idles slow.
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1977_L63H_P27
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
then lean it a turn on the screw by opening (counter-clockwise) and see if the RPM increases. If it does then that is why it idles slow.


I'll give it a try. But now I'm wondering...does my '77 have a vacuum type modulator valve? And, if so, where is it supposed to get it's signal from? Thanks!
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried to find a diagram for the 1977 vacuum lines on an automatic and could not come up with one. I found one for a 1976 but some parts changed in 1977. On the 1976 diagram, the plenum has two nipples. One goes to the decel and fuel pressure regulator and the one on the oppisite side goes to the vacuum modulator.
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1977_L63H_P27
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the help volks, but I'm fed up. I'm now in the market for some good dual carburetors.

Went out there this morning, hit the key and she started right up and purred along. I leaned the mix out one turn and the exhaust smelled better. Then, after she warmed up, decided to take her around the block. Seemed to be a little on the weak side, but smooth off of idle and drove pretty well. When I got home, I stopped and put her in reverse to back into her parking spot and she died...

Now it's back to starting and dying within a few seconds. If anyone needs fuel injection parts, including four rebuilt injectors from Fuel Injection Corp., give me a shout Razz
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you done your diagnostic checks through the wiring harness from the plug on the ECU? This should catch any problems in the harness and the connections between the harness and the senders. Check carefully that all the pins are correctly installed in any and all of the plugs. If they have backed out especially from the ECU plug that will cause hard to find mystery problems.
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1977_L63H_P27
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Have you done your diagnostic checks through the wiring harness from the plug on the ECU? This should catch any problems in the harness and the connections between the harness and the senders. Check carefully that all the pins are correctly installed in any and all of the plugs. If they have backed out especially from the ECU plug that will cause hard to find mystery problems.


It was running great until I ran it out of gas and a backfire blew the AFM door in half. The replacement AFM ran it fine for about 20 minutes this morning. I drove it for a year with a carburetor. I'm done with FI, but thanks for all the help.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1977_L63H_P27 wrote:
does my '77 have a vacuum type modulator valve?


no. up to '75.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1977_L63H_P27 wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Have you done your diagnostic checks through the wiring harness from the plug on the ECU? This should catch any problems in the harness and the connections between the harness and the senders. Check carefully that all the pins are correctly installed in any and all of the plugs. If they have backed out especially from the ECU plug that will cause hard to find mystery problems.


It was running great until I ran it out of gas and a backfire blew the AFM door in half. The replacement AFM ran it fine for about 20 minutes this morning. I drove it for a year with a carburetor. I'm done with FI, but thanks for all the help.


have you checked your s-boot, aux air elbow, and all other diaphragms for leakage? A backfire that strong would have possibly blown out other things. One thing for example few would look at is the PCV diaphragm. If it tore (likely as they get fragile with age) and you have a leaky oil cap or valve cover it will suck air through those areas. Rather than toss the FI, go through all the diagnostics - especially the diaphragms.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what happened to this comment you made

Quote:
All in all it's way more enjoyable to drive than when it had the progressive carburetor. I'm going to add clamps to the runner hoses and see if that helps anything.



you want your bus to run good but from reading this thread
it sounds like your taking every possible short cut you can find
& not checking things properly

then wonder why you cant find out why its not running right

when you swap out the fi system for dual carbs
your going to have the same type of problems
if you dont do the proper test & find out exactly whats wrong
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1977_L63H_P27
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vw76westy wrote:
what happened to this comment you made

Quote:
All in all it's way more enjoyable to drive than when it had the progressive carburetor. I'm going to add clamps to the runner hoses and see if that helps anything.



you want your bus to run good but from reading this thread
it sounds like your taking every possible short cut you can find
& not checking things properly

then wonder why you cant find out why its not running right

when you swap out the fi system for dual carbs
your going to have the same type of problems
if you dont do the proper test & find out exactly whats wrong


I'll agree with you to some extent. But I've already put between $500-$600 into fuel injection and no joy. Hell, if I want a new wiring harness there's $350 more. For $350 I can buy these and some extra jets to play with, and they'll be all new. I bought this system of off a running bus and just thought it'd be a little easier to enjoy. The PO had already sold the FI off of my bus and likewise I'll be passing these parts along to help others who have unmolested buses keep their FI going a little longer. Again thanks for all the help, but I'm done.
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busdaddy wrote:
...and try a few chubby ones until you find one you like.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that is too bad. We had to rebuild our 1977 FI and getting it perfect is a pain. So is tuning a carb for that fact, especiially if your state or Federal smog laws change to be more conservative, which is pretty likely given the lobbists pushing for getting old cars off the highways. If the frustration wears off and you decide to work on the FI again, let me know and I will help you work thru it.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I stopped and put her in reverse to back into her parking spot and she died...


does she die in reverse often? If so there is a fairly common issue where the reverse light which comes off the coil kills the coil voltage. This can be caused by the reverse circuit having issues or the ignition switch getting weak.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Quote:
I stopped and put her in reverse to back into her parking spot and she died...


does she die in reverse often? If so there is a fairly common issue where the reverse light which comes off the coil kills the coil voltage. This can be caused by the reverse circuit having issues or the ignition switch getting weak.


I appreciate your offer Steve. I'm just sick of messing with this bus. At least with the progressive she started every time and got me where I was going. As for the back up light, it must be wired different on an automatic as it doesn't come off of my coil. Peace!
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The FI system is fantastic. You just have to measure every component, which is possible with a regular multimeter. Check if the vacuum-can on the distributor is not leaking and if every vacuum hose i tight. Then check if the CO level is around 2% (without catalic converter). If it's slightly off, you can adjust it with the screw on the AFM, otherwise you have to move the arm in the AFM a bit.
I'd rather drive with the FI system than with old and most likely worn dual carbs. Those are nearly impossible to adjust to complete satisfaction.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay..so I took a breather. Left it alone for a few weeks. Then I came back here and started reading. Steve (SGKent), you ended up helping more than you know. I found a couple of places where you'd posted a link to this
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_fi_training_troubleshooting_manual.php
trouble shooting manual.

I started early today by taking most of the plumbing back apart. Then started testing each piece in order. I even made a makeshift fuel pressure guage from a cheap tire gauge. It worked great! After testing each piece, and getting good readings, I started connecting the plumbing. I guess when it backfired it knocked something off that I just couldn't see before, because after it was back together it ran perfectly. I've only driven her about 8 miles but she really is running great.

I still have a low idle, but I can deal with that Wink. Thanks for all the help volks, and if you're considering FI, DO IT!
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busdaddy wrote:
...and try a few chubby ones until you find one you like.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am very glad to hear that. Here is why - one it is a load off your mind and you can enjoy the bus now, but more so, adding dual carbs doesn't lower the frustration, in fact the set up was likely to be more of a pain than finding the FI problem was.

If you enjoy reading, get a book from Amazon called Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management by Charles O. Probst, SAE. It covers so much more of the design and how it works. I am one of those people who have to be able to build it in my head to work on it and his book really helped me understand how FI works. I am no longer intimidated by the L-jetronic system because of his book.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

btw - you can slightly open the screw on the throttle body and it should speed up your idle. Check your timing too.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
btw - you can slightly open the screw on the throttle body and it should speed up your idle. Check your timing too.


Timing is spot on and the bypass screw is screwed almost all the way out. It could be the passage underneath is gunked up. I'll check it tomorrow. Thanks for the reading suggestion, I'll see if my library has a copy. Peace!
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1977_L63H_P27 wrote:
SGKent wrote:
btw - you can slightly open the screw on the throttle body and it should speed up your idle. Check your timing too.


Timing is spot on and the bypass screw is screwed almost all the way out. It could be the passage underneath is gunked up. I'll check it tomorrow. Thanks for the reading suggestion, I'll see if my library has a copy. Peace!


It isn't a passage. The butterfly has a flat on one side that the screws sits against. As you open the screw it lets more air past the butterfly.
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