Differences in ECU between the years?

[davis911s]

[1977_L63H_P27]

[Alan Brase]

Regrettably Karl is no longer with us. And he was the best! http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...;start=240 I think 80-83 Vanagons had a rev limiter built in. And of course the 49 state and california difference. Otherwise they seem to be the same as 77-79's.
Al
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Al Brase
Projects: 67 sunroof bug, 67 Porsche 912 Targa, 70 Westy
Dec 1955 Single Cab pickup WANT 15" BUS RIMS dated 8/55, thru 12/55
To New owners: 1969 doublecab, 1971 Dormobile
Vanagons:
80 P27 Westy JUL 1979, 3rd oldest known US
83 1.6TD Vanagon, 87 Wolfie Westy daily driver, swap meet home

[Wildthings]

Rev limiter isn't in the AFM, so that wouldn't be a problem. You still need to know if its a 6 pin or 7 pin system you are wanting to use it in. The basic plug design may have changed at some point so that would be something to check/compare.

[germansupplyscott]

[1977_L63H_P27]

The 032 AFM is seven pin and the plug design is the same as my '77. I think I'll give it a try. Thanks for all the help
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[SGKent]

[Wildthings]

[SGKent]

splitting hairs. Thread was on ECU's.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[vw76westy]

From what I know (please correct me if im wrong)


some of the differences are....
75 does not have temp 1 in afm (this is the 7th pin on 76-up afm)
76 has full throttle micro switch on throttle body
77-78 (ca & fed) has full throttle sensor in afm
79 fed is the same as 77-78
79 ca has oxygen sensor both the afm & brain need this to work

76 uses a 018 afm
77-78 use a 020

You can put a 020 in a 76
the micro switch on throttle body becomes an ornament
because there is one built into the 020 afm

but you can’t put a 018 in a 77-up without changing the harness & adding the micro switch
the afm will seem to work but when you go full throttle there will be no sensor
to tell the ecu that everything needs to be wide open

this same concept apply's to 79-83 afm's & ecu's
it will work if the wire harness can support the components & sensors
that are required for the modal (afm or ecu)

A ecu that needs info from an oxygen sensor won’t work
if there is no oxygen sensor

but if the fi system has a oxygen sensor & the afm & ecu do not need it
then it will work

I don’t know what other components vanogon fi system have that bus do not have
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The Type 4 engine is considered by many to be VW's finest air-cooled motor,

[SGKent]

[vw76westy]

then what makes the 1976 018afm
different from "77" & up 020

there has to be something different
for them to have a different ##

& how else do we explain why its ok to use 020 in a 76
but not a 018 in 77-up
_________________
order your BAY WINDOW T-SHIRT here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1526918

quote from bay window bus buyers guide........
The Type 4 engine is considered by many to be VW's finest air-cooled motor,

[SGKent]

my 1977 runs the same whether it has a 018 or a 020 in it. All that matters is the ECU and FI harness are correct. I sent you a PM showing the part numbers from an old ETKA. (below). When I visited FIC last year they showed me the part numbers of the interior parts on a 018 and a 020. They are 100% the same.

Also here is what Richard Atwell has on his site from a Bosch Catalog

[1977_L63H_P27]

So, I've hit another snag...big surprise. I had heard something rattling inside the AFM while I was cleaning it up, but decided to hook it up anyway. The pump kicked in as soon as the key was on. I popped the lid and found the steel arm that pushes the contacts open was broken off. I have the wiper arm out of the old AFM and they are the same. How difficult is it to swap these out? And are they super sensitive to position or will close be okay? I've already marked the position of the arm and removed the arm from the junk unit...could it be that simple to do?? Thanks!
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[1977_L63H_P27]

Well it was that simple! She's running again.
My last problem, and one that I hope to fix before long, is my low idle. The highest I can get her is 830 to 850 rpm, and that's with the bypass screw turn all the way out. This bus is an auto, so I need to see 950 rpm.
Anyone else had this low idle bug? Thanks!
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[Wildthings]

Which distributor are you running and what do you have it timed to?

[1977_L63H_P27]

[SGKent]

do a cylinder balance test

There are two idle adjustment screws. One is on the AFM and controls mixture. You need an Air to Fuel meter to set it, and the other is on the throttle body. This one controls the idle speed. If neither got you to 900 then that is spooky cause what does it do when you open the throttle?

If it runs fine with the throttle open you may have a leaky EGR if it is still attached.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[1977_L63H_P27]

No EGR and I'm not messin' with the enrichment screw . I don't believe that's the issue anyway. I've had three different AFM's on here since I started going back to FI and it idled slow with them all. As I said before, it starts good and is running fine. Just with the low idle, it's sounds a little iffy when you put it in drive. But barely putting your foot on the accelerator brings it into the 900 rpm range. All in all it's way more enjoyable to drive than when it had the progressive carburetor. I'm going to add clamps to the runner hoses and see if that helps anything.
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[SGKent]