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Tiico conversion better than the Zetec and Subie????
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

> something is inheritently wrong...running the same for 5 years now.

by any chance are you running larger than stock tires?

if so, give the make and model and I will tell you what happened to your gearing..
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weatherbill
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Volks, yes, it would be worth the effort to take to a real vw mechanic to get analysis of the engine.....it might save me a conversion.

I've also been looking hard into increasing power thru this site, which I find facinating.

http://www.hho4cars.com/
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weatherbill
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon_slider wrote:
> something is inheritently wrong...running the same for 5 years now.

by any chance are you running larger than stock tires?

if so, give the make and model and I will tell you what happened to your gearing..


not running larger tires, just stock 14 alloys.

1989 wolfsburg.... you think it may be my gearing, a?
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Alan Brase
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many years ago the Audi I-5 was considered a good conversion motor. I've often thought a 5 from a Eurovan might be good, with its extra displacement and torque.
I don't hear about many doing this conversion anymore. I'd think the mileage might still be okay. Eurovans do pretty good, though with slighly better aerodynamics.
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

> not running larger tires, just stock 14 alloys

14" alloys is not the rubber

what rubber, make, model, and size?

but no, I dont think that is the problem, since you have 14" rims.. still, lets finish the excercise by inputting all the facts..
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weatherbill
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

205 70R14 95S M&S is what the tire reads. they are firestones.....

did you say you could telll me what was happenign with my gearing??
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Crankey
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just a heads up on Tiico...I bought grill parts from him on the phone, I paid via CC and at the time, he didn't have them in stock.

well, it's been a year and 1/2 and after many many requests for a refund I haven't gotten anything from him but talk.

I even sent an email with my paypal email and a link to paypal just to make it super easy for him...and I got ZIP

the Tiico guy is an A Hole of the first order IMHO. this scumbag owes me $200

all my communications have been really civil too. I'm not slandering him here, these are just the facts on my experience.


Last edited by Crankey on Sun Jun 22, 2008 4:58 pm; edited 1 time in total
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

weatherbill wrote:
well, the main reason I'mconsidering a conversion is becasue my waterboxer is weaker than th eaverage waterboxer. I've owned and driven 3 other waterboxer vanagons and this is much weaker than all the others. I feel like I'm only getting 80 hp, so maybe my problem is something else.

The former owner said the owner before him had installed a boston bob rebuilt engine.

........

I think something is inheritently wrong with the boston bob engine, though it's been running the same for 5 years now. It's fine mechanically, but it is wimpier than my other vangons I owned ...


I had the same impressions of an AVP rebuild I bought some years ago, exactly as you described. In fact it was this experience which prompted me to get back into engine building after a long hiatus. The OEM engine had far more power with 160k on it than the new AVP rebuild. It also still tested 160psi compression at 6400' ASL, while the AVP once broken in only made about 125psi. It turned out that Leonard at AVP used the Cofap Brazilian P&C sets that have the piston compression height 1mm too short. With those pistons on stock rods, the compression is too low, and there is no effective piston squish which is a tremendous enhancement of power and efficiency when it's dialed in right.

Now I know Boston Bob has excellent workmanship, and he's also immensely friendly and helpful if you call him on the phone with technical questions as I did when I needed some special parts. So I hate to say anything that would denigrate him or his work. But, looking at his parts page, under P&C sets, he advertises that they are Cofap, and the low price reflects that:

http://www.bostonengine.com/partspricelist.html

And, on his engine rebuilds page he says that his builds get new P&C's. Now it would be very unusual for a rebuilder to sell a different class of parts than he uses himself, and his retail on a rebuild does not reflect the much higher cost of a Mahle P&C set, so I suppose it's safe to assume that he is actually installing the Cofap P&C set on his rebuilds. That means that unless he compensates by shaving the heads or lengthening the rods o.c. length, his rebuilds have the same low compression. I hate to say it, but it may be true. It might not influence your decision to do a conversion, but it may help you understand why you're so unhappy with that engine (I sure would be; those Cofaps make the wbx a DOG! WOOF!). And for not very much money, you could bring your wbx back up to OEM compression and performance if you wanted.
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Joe VW
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The solution to Cofaps is easy. Just deck the flat surface of the heads 1mm and chuck the head shims in the trash. Just don't forget to debur the spigots so you don't cut an O-ring. Your compression will go from a stock 8.6:1 to a 9:1 ,increasing HP and mileage. Without this mod you get 8.3:1 and an inefficent deck height pig.
I'm running no head shims with 6lbs of turbo boost right now. My mileage has sucked so far because I'm running a longer duration cam and a blow through carburetor. Although I have improved it some I will eventually megasquirt it.
Power and torque is considerably better than A 2.5 Vanaru conversion I drove although the Idle isn't as smooth (lean carb). Gearing needs a change to bring the revs down on the highway. This would help with mileage too.
Waterboxers don't need headgaskets, just o-rings. Think about it- all type-4 rebuilds require gasket removal (re. Volkswagen) and they are notorious for head warpage and Beetles never had them. The wasser head is much more stable.


Last edited by Joe VW on Sun Jun 22, 2008 5:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
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funagon
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tencent: I didn't want to say it but you said it for me. My first thought when reading Bill's symptoms was low-compression aftermarket pistons. I know Bob has a good rep, and I don't know anything about his business, so I didn't want to throw my theories out there.

But when a rebuild WBX has poor compression and can barely get up hills, the first thing to suspect is those pistons.

Hey Joe VW: If you were planning to turbocharge the WBX, why didn't you leave the deck height as-is for lower compression, and then turn the boost up higher?
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, there's nothing wrong with leaving the combustion sealing rings out. T4's specified this, we used to build T1's this way all the time, lapping the cyls into the heads with compound to get a perfect match. I'm beginning to wonder if the reason the imported aftermarket P&C's for wbx's, the AA's, QSC's and Cofaps, all have the same error in compression height is because they intend for people to do what JoeVW does. I mean it's assumed that wbx heads will be pitted when you remove them, even though that's not always the case in fact. If that's what they intended, it sure woulda helped if they had put some mention of that in with the sets. Who knows?
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ChesterKV
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe VW wrote:
. ...with 6lbs of turbo boost right now. .......
....Power and torque is considerably better than A 2.5 Vanaroo conversion I drove although the Idle isn't as smooth (lean carb)......



For the record, it sounds as though you're making a comparison between a custom turbo highly-modified WBX engine vs. a stock N/A (normally aspirated - i.e., non-turbo) Subaru EJ25. That is a very apples and oranges comparison as the wbx-turbo is beyond the mechanical abilities of 95 percent of the readers (including myself) on this forum. A lot of garage engineering is required to get this particular wbx to run well as you already know.

It's cool to see people doing this kind of custom modification but I want the facts to be as clear as possible.




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Joe VW
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ChesterKV wrote:
Joe VW wrote:
. ...with 6lbs of turbo boost right now. .......
....Power and torque is considerably better than A 2.5 Vanaroo conversion I drove although the Idle isn't as smooth (lean carb)......



For the record, it sounds as though you're making a comparison between a custom turbo highly-modified WBX engine vs. a stock N/A (normally aspirated - i.e., non-turbo) Subaru EJ25. That is a very apples and oranges comparison as the wbx-turbo is beyond the mechanical abilities of 95 percent of the readers (including myself) on this forum. A lot of garage engineering is required to get this particular wbx to run well as you already know.

It's cool to see people doing this kind of custom modification but I want the facts to be as clear as possible.
- Chester

Sorry if it sounded like I was comparing a simple compression bump to a Subaru EJ25. The Subaru ran great and had more low end torque than I expected, It too could use taller gearing.
I also have a non turbo 2.1 wasser without the head shims and 1.25 rockers. The power is much better than stock and night and day to a low compression high deck rebuild. Not quite as powerful as The 2.5 subaru but Better than stock.
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levi
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Choosing a tiico over suby because some have said one gets better mpg isn't very sensible. The engines themselves are going to give similar results there.
Here's an example from my own experience.
Two different vans, with the same exact engine.
One van gave me a low of 14 mpg to a high of 17 mpg, in more than a year it never did better than 18, even if I babied it, keeping it under 55.
The other van (with the same engine!) has never returned less than 20 mpg. Generally over 23 in the city, and better on the road.
Hmmmmmm.... Rolling Eyes
Same engine. Same driver. Same gps device for the mileage.
What gives? One had an auto tranny, wide soft Nokian tires. The other has a 4 speed, and stock size 185r14.
Probably other factors at work here too, that I'm just not aware of.
I'm not saying you should go suby, just be aware that mpg results reported by folks are across the board, for many reasons.
If anyone can explain why these two different engines (tiico/suby), of the same appx hp, same appx displacement, both 4 cylinder, and using the gas, should have reasonably different mpg results, please tell why.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get 21 MPG, for the last 14 years Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

levi wrote:
If anyone can explain why these two different engines (tiico/suby), of the same appx hp, same appx displacement, both 4 cylinder, and using the gas, should have reasonably different mpg results, please tell why.


I think where in the RPM range the engines make their power, horsepower and torque, will greatly effect the fuel mileage one could expect from them. I dont know if the subi and the VW I4 are very different in where they make their power and torque peaks, or what the torque curves look like for either engine, but that could explain the difference in the miles per gallon.

other things like timing, cams, fuel injectors, the computer program, and even the breathing (intake/exhaust)of the motors could explain alot of it.
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Joe VW
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Hey Joe VW: If you were planning to turbocharge the WBX, why didn't you leave the deck height as-is for lower compression, and then turn the boost up higher?"
Detonation and lost efficency. I'd bet I would hear pinging at the same boost or lower with a loose deck. At 6lbs with no intercooler there is none. I will try to find the lowest possible octane it can safely run with this boost level.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what's your actual squish clearance after shaving the heads? It would be zero with Mahle pistons, which wouldn't be good when its hot. Did it have the Cofaps and you corrected?
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crankey wrote:
just a heads up on Tiico...I bought grill parts from him on the phone, I paid via CC and at the time, he didn't have them in stock.

well, it's been a year and 1/2 and after many many requests for a refund I haven't gotten anything from him but talk.

I even sent an email with my paypal email and a link to paypal just to make it super easy for him...and I got ZIP

the Tiico guy is an A Hole of the first order IMHO. this scumbag owes me $200

all my communications have been really civil too. I'm not slandering him here, these are just the facts on my experience.

Shoulda contacted the cc company right away. It may well be too late now, sorry to say. You may just call and verify, especially if you still have your cc bill and related documentation. Never know, you may get lucky.
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weatherbill
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tencentlife.....you may have hit the nail on the head. thanx for your detailed observations! This is probably my problem. WOW! All these years I was wondering what it was and I think you nailed it. And thanx for putting it into a simple language I can understand!
I wonder what the best route to take to correct the problem would be, replace the pistons or shave the heads with the other modifications. I wonder what a job like that would cost??? I would be totally happy with my engine if I could get it back to normal power becaseu I';ve already had both heads replaced correctly on this engine and I don't need super power, just normal get up and go and I would be happy and if these modifiactions can be done and save me a few thousand from getting a conversion, I would be one happy camper.

tencentlife wrote:
weatherbill wrote:
well, the main reason I'mconsidering a conversion is becasue my waterboxer is weaker than th eaverage waterboxer. I've owned and driven 3 other waterboxer vanagons and this is much weaker than all the others. I feel like I'm only getting 80 hp, so maybe my problem is something else.

The former owner said the owner before him had installed a boston bob rebuilt engine.

........

I think something is inheritently wrong with the boston bob engine, though it's been running the same for 5 years now. It's fine mechanically, but it is wimpier than my other vangons I owned ...


I had the same impressions of an AVP rebuild I bought some years ago, exactly as you described. In fact it was this experience which prompted me to get back into engine building after a long hiatus. The OEM engine had far more power with 160k on it than the new AVP rebuild. It also still tested 160psi compression at 6400' ASL, while the AVP once broken in only made about 125psi. It turned out that Leonard at AVP used the Cofap Brazilian P&C sets that have the piston compression height 1mm too short. With those pistons on stock rods, the compression is too low, and there is no effective piston squish which is a tremendous enhancement of power and efficiency when it's dialed in right.

Now I know Boston Bob has excellent workmanship, and he's also immensely friendly and helpful if you call him on the phone with technical questions as I did when I needed some special parts. So I hate to say anything that would denigrate him or his work. But, looking at his parts page, under P&C sets, he advertises that they are Cofap, and the low price reflects that:

http://www.bostonengine.com/partspricelist.html

And, on his engine rebuilds page he says that his builds get new P&C's. Now it would be very unusual for a rebuilder to sell a different class of parts than he uses himself, and his retail on a rebuild does not reflect the much higher cost of a Mahle P&C set, so I suppose it's safe to assume that he is actually installing the Cofap P&C set on his rebuilds. That means that unless he compensates by shaving the heads or lengthening the rods o.c. length, his rebuilds have the same low compression. I hate to say it, but it may be true. It might not influence your decision to do a conversion, but it may help you understand why you're so unhappy with that engine (I sure would be; those Cofaps make the wbx a DOG! WOOF!). And for not very much money, you could bring your wbx back up to OEM compression and performance if you wanted.
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