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Eurovan rear brakes vanagon (UPDATED w/ ford caliper/rotor)
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a914622
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a new set up Iv been working on. The plan is to put the new set up on a westy-ginnypig (thanks franklinstower) this week end or soon. An update should be posted soon. Big beefy er rotor and hub centric to the vanagon hub!!

jcl
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r39o
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For this new one, do you still have to cut down the hub?
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Franklinstower
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

a914622 wrote:
Hey all
Just an update. Im reworking the brackets to use the rear calipers form a 95-2003 ford. The caliper/ pads will need no modification. A FULLING BOLT ON SETUP. And Im going to make a bracket to use the larger 295mmx13mm dai eurovan rotor if bigger is your thing .

Im thinking for around 110.00 i can provide the turning of the hubs and the brackets. You get the rotors and calipers and rear brakes should be under 400.00

But let me finish the engineering and post and update later.

jcl


Jeff finished his brackets and we installed the ford calipers and rotors on my westy this weekend. It was simple - but all the thanks goes to Jeff for making this rear disc set up so easy. Jeff made the brackets, modified the hub and modified the rotors by making them hub centric and a 5x112 bolt pattern. He also did all the research into the calipers and rotors - mocked up numerous different designs, but eventually went with the Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable calipers/rotors.

Here is how it went:

Brackets designed and machined by Jeff:

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Rotors machined for 5x112 and the center bore opened to be hub centric.

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Hubs were modified to fit the rotors. The overall diameter was reduced to fit and there is plenty of material left between the studs and the edge.

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The process begins like this:

Remove wheel and 46mm axle nut:

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Remove Brake hardware:

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Remove Backing plate - there are 3 bolts to remove - two at the bottom one on top - on the bottom there is a dowel pin that can be stuck - punch it out with a suitable drift if it is stuck:

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Bolt on new caliper adapter:

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Install modified hub:

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Here is the caliper:

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Slide on the rotor and slip caliper onto rotor:

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Bolt it onto the adapter:

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Connect brake hoses:

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All ready for E-Brake cable, also you can see the hard brake line in this photo is a little long - reducing the length by 3 to 4" would make the flex hose fit better:

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This is where the E-Brake cable goes: We swapped end for end of the stock brake cable - The housing fits right in on the caliper and the end fits perfectly into the ford caliper. I forgot to take a picture of the cable on this end - but it is self explanatory.

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The E brake housing ends up being about 4.5" too short. So I used a piece of 1/2" copper water supply line to extend the housing about 4.5". I am researching other brake cables that are the correct length - but this works fine in the meantime:

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Bleed the system and you are done! It was so simple and did not cost $850 like Small Car's Kit. It took about 1 hour per side to complete the whole thing.

I don't know what Jeff will charge for the machining - but the calipers and rotors were only $35 for the pair at the Pull-A-Part and they were just rebuilt when he found them.

This really improves the braking - I don't nose dive as much and the stopping distance is improved. We were going to do some before and after stopping distance trials but ran out of time. We still might in the future to show actuall improvement.

Hey Jeff, did I state everything correctly? Thanks again for all your help etc!!!!

Paul
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a914622
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Thats a great right up.

I did find a banjo to flare fitting that would allow the use of a hard line from the pivot of the rear arm, to the caliper. It was on a 90 dodge lancer rear. The hard line would have to be bent. The adapter end is the same threads as the vw but uses the pointed in end. I need to get some Pics to help explain.

The only outher thing is the rotor thickness, 14mm. Its hard to see in the pics but its a beefy rotor.


thanks for your help. Very Happy Very Happy

jeff l
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know why you would have to machine the eurovan rotors to 5x112
also do you per chance have the CAD file used? that would be very nice to have/see... or are you looking to offer caliper mounts 4sale.

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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My biggest fear in any upgrade is getting replacement parts in the future. I don't like relying on a specific source for something that has the chance of breaking on the road. Rotors are a wear item and they will be replaced in the future and possibly in the road. Replacing a rotor in the future now means finding a machine shop to have them redrilled for the correct bolt pattern. I am in no way knocking your effort at all but this does need to be kept in the back of one's mind.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danfromsyr wrote:
I don't know why you would have to machine the eurovan rotors to 5x112
also do you per chance have the CAD file used? that would be very nice to have/see... or are you looking to offer caliper mounts 4sale.



He did not use the eurovan rotors after all - They were ford rotors and therefore not 5x112.

I think jeff will offer the brackets for sale. This ford rotor/caliper set up was contrived based on the rotor offset. It fits much easier than other methods of audi/vw rotors which require thick brackets or spacing.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrodoka wrote:
My biggest fear in any upgrade is getting replacement parts in the future. I don't like relying on a specific source for something that has the chance of breaking on the road. Rotors are a wear item and they will be replaced in the future and possibly in the road. Replacing a rotor in the future now means finding a machine shop to have them redrilled for the correct bolt pattern. I am in no way knocking your effort at all but this does need to be kept in the back of one's mind.


Yes you are correct and I thought of that too, but honestly, how many miles do you get on a set of rear rotors? 50k miles? 75k miles? maybe even a 100k miles? These 14mm thick rotors can be turned at least once and probably twice within the wear limits so you could very well be 150,000 miles into them before they have to be replaced. The rear rotors also last 2 to 3 times longer than front rotors because they do only 30% of the braking.
Regardless - just for insurance - I will probably have him machine another set of rotors just to put on my shelf. But I honestly see the rotors just sitting and will go with the van when I sell it because I do not see this vehicle in the family 15 years down the road...who knows though.

Paul
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, you are correct rotors last a long time. I am busy building one of my syncros for long trips and I am thinking of trying to replace parts in BFE from some parts shack. I have heard of rotors failing due to warping or some kind of mechanical damage(heat cycling, wheel coming off etc..). Just trying to think what can be fixed on the road. I am sure that you will enjoy the brake upgrade, as usual updates are always appreciated.
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a914622
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes all the concerns are and have been kicked around. What Iv come up with so far is the best compromise i can think of .

The ford calipers and rotors are used on lots of ford models from 92-2005 including the mustang. The caliper is stunningly close to the vw/audi And parts are every were. rebuilt calipers are 80.00 ish at napa last time i looked.

Given the thickness of the rotors , I felt they would be the least likely to fail. They are very beefy and should be able to get 1 or 2 turnings. And in a pinch i guy could use the wheel as a drill template, mark the lugs on a new rotor and drill 1/2 hole for the lugs plus some slop. There is only .010 a side to make the center hub-centric. In a pinch the lug bolts could pull the rotor over the vw hub. not ideal but in a pinch....

I to am thinking of the long road trip. The question , what if the the middle of the Yokon?? is always what im thinking, because iv been there.


keep them on the road Very Happy
jcl
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izzydog
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This all sounds good to me and many thanks to jcl for sorting this all out.

Sooo...how do I get a set of brackets?

Jeff
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like I learned many years ago building and enjoying my baja.
it was in the baja bug survival guide book.

you can only plan for soo many possibilities. bring resourcefulness in your tool box and a pair of vicegrips.

if stranded means you have to walk out, remove the broken part and make it so the vehicle can get you to safety.

unbolt the caliper and maybe even the rotor, remove the brake line and fold over the steel line to reduce or minimize fluid loss.
drive home gingerly on 3 brakes.

and in 10/20/25 years when I can not gather parts from these antique vehicles, I shall make another setup with whatever usees similiar calipers in the junkyards.
you do not think we will ever not have old/parts cars?? not so long as I have my ability to drive..


FWIW I do NOT see the Eurovan 14mm solid or the Audi V8/3B vented rear rotors ever warping.
I have had the fornt rotors on my audi 5000 Turbo quattro (large vented rotor) glowing nice red hot many times.. long story but even the new(rebuilt) calieprs can and do fail.
good pads & Synthetic fluid with no H2o intermixed (change&flush your brake fluid ~24months) kept the car stopping and driving
the rotor never picked up a warble and I did fear for all rubber parts in the vicinity from the radiated heat.

I am not saying that brake rotors don't warp.. sure they could and maybe do. but I will say that it is Likely ALOT LESS often the the service garage says/charges for.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know anything about brakes and such, but i was wondering: is there any reason why you could not just use stock front disks and calipers on the rear?
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThorAlex wrote:
I don't know anything about brakes and such, but i was wondering: is there any reason why you could not just use stock front disks and calipers on the rear?


the front calipers don't provide an emergency/handbrake function.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes there was a recall on Audi 5000 calipers. Some were Girling and Some were ATE. Don't remember which, but if a vehicle had one type, they were to be replaced. They would not lock up like you would die in a car crash, but the hand brake mechanism would not release properly. The hydraulic hose boss is in a different locaton on the 5000 vs the Golf rear caliper, but can be solved.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bravo !

Nice Cad work too.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Franklinstower,

Nice work! and very nice write up. I'm a bit confused in the end on what exactly you used/didn't use. What was modified or not. Do you think you could just write a quick list of what was used and what had to be modified.

The calipers; what model ford did you take them from? Did you install larger studs? Thanks, Todd.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes a wrap up post of the part numbers etc would be fantastic.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what i know since JCL did alot of the legwork and parts grabbing: The whole thing goes together very easily with the caliper bracket Jeff made, the Rotor he modified and the Hub modified:

Calipers:
Came on: '93-'99 ford taurus (all models with rear discs); '93-99 Mercury Sable; '93-2000 Lincoln Continental. No modification to the caliper was necessary. I think the brake lines off the calipers were the right thread too - Although JCL will have to tell you exactly which flex brake lines worked the best.

Rotors:
Came on: '93-2006 Taurus; '93 - 2000 Continental; '93 - 2005 Merc Sable. The rotors are 10.1" and 14mm thick-solid rotors. The stock ford bolt pattern is 5 X 108 so Jeff set them up on his CNC to drill a 5 X 112 Bolt Pattern opposite the ford pattern. He also opened the center Bore .010" for a perfect hubcentric fit.

Caliper Brackets - Made by JCL on his CNC

Hubs
Outside diameter was decreased to fit inside the Rotor. I do not know the exact outside Diameter. But he set up an axle in his lathe and cut them down to fit. I think this needs to be done on all Disc Conversions.

Studs
I used 52mm Sway - a Way studs. That is because I have 16" Passat rims and 12mm Spacers. I would estimate the extra thickness of the rotor compared to the stock drum to be only 1-2 mm different if that. So if you have stock steelies I don't think you need to change the studs.

Wheels
I know this set up will fit 15" rims and Larger. I have a lot of clearance to the caliper. It might not fit stock 14" rims I have not mounted one yet.

Brake hoses
I did not modify the hoses at all, except to straighten the hard line that went into the original brake cylinder. I used the stock hose on the caliper. It had the correct female thread to connect directly to the VW hard line.

Brake Cable
I used the stock VW cable switched end for end. I had to add and extra 4.5" spacer to the cable housing underneath the Van were it goes through the rubber grommet thingy (see the pictures in the install thread)

But I am researching some other stock cables from othere cars that might fit without modifying it:

The main issue with the E-brake cable is to have a housing that is long enough so no spacer sleeve is needed. It then can bend at a more natural angle. The stock sleeve is 40" and I think 44-46 is optimum for this conversion. The over all stock cable length is 58" with a 40" housing. So if we go to a 44-45" housing, the difference is 14-13" from cable to housing. The vanagon adjuster had about 3" of threads to play with on the solid rod underneath the Van.

Raybestos part numbers that may fit:

BC93343 - 60.375 X 47.625 - so that is basically a 13" housing to cable delta. should work and the extra length can not hurt as long as there is enough threads on the adjuster. Fits: Bronco 80-91; F150 80-91; F10080-83 all are for the left rear side.
BC93550 - 59 X 44.375 - may be the closest fit I have found. Fits: 1987 Isuzu Trooper
BC94491 - 60 X 47 - Fits: 92-96 Bronco; 92-96 F150 - can't remember whitch side.
BC92863 - 58.25 X 44.25 - Also may be a good fit. Fits: 78-79 Bronco - Drivers side
BC93538 - 59 X 47.1875 - 12" differential between housing and cable - may not fit the adjuster - not sure. Fits: 85-88 Chevy Nova
BC93489 - 57.375 X 45.625 - same as above - Fits: 85-95 Astro Vans and Safaris - should be plentiful in the pull-a-part yards.

I hope this helps. I really like the rear disc set up. The brake parts are cheap and everywhere. Jeff has the Bracket programmed in his CNC so I think he will be making some if he gets enough interest. Probably any machine shop can modify the hubs on a lathe - same with the rotors - it seems easy enough but I am not a CNC programmer!

Paul
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bravo Paul !!!!
Great right up. Let me add what I can.

CALIPERS:
For some reason the hard line end of the caliper is not the same on the drivers and pass side. One is small and fits the vw line one is a size bigger.
There is a crap load of pads that fit.

HUB
Need to be turned down to 5.500. The hub center locates the rotor.

WHEELS
If using longer studs and a 12mm spacer the stocker 14s may fit?? Still need to be worked out.

E Brake cable
Paul has done all the work on this one. Im still looking at the cables to find a year model that fits. 86 isuzu does not.


I will make a few sets if there is enough interest.

thanks again Paul

jcl
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