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Installing a wood headliner?
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

here are couple more pics for DIYers:

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this last picture shows the thin wood that runs in the side channels to help support the headliner
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent garage ceiling shot. Now I finally know how to get up into your attic to spy on you.
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my65vert
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

someone is already there!!

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OGJHC
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I'm starting to get little wafts of bus stink coming from the north. Something about the unique scent of drivers seat padding when it's glued together with mouse piss and shit that really gets me going... and I'm smelling it! Oh yeah! Time to start loading up the equipment.
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nimbus
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's one big cat Laughing
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:
Excellent garage ceiling shot. Now I finally know how to get up into your attic to spy on you.


whiskers! - get down from there! tehe *snort*

that's how my garage fires can get into my attached living unit and I can collect a mad insurance check...been 4 years and I still haven't attched the peice of drywall to the drop down attic ladder that my home buying inspector recommended...
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I want to know what kind of staple gun Westfalia used to tack those very hard oak bows together. Just for fun I tried my electric staple gun on it and they just bounced off.
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Revis
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 4:11 pm    Post subject: headliner Reply with quote

It wasn't a staple gun, they were fastened with tar.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 6:00 pm    Post subject: Re: headliner Reply with quote

Revis wrote:
It wasn't a staple gun, they were fastened with tar.


Was it roofing tar? I hear its good for leaks.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark, what is that black crap on the air vent? Sick
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Das Dragon
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Fiend" here's a list of possible 5X5 1/8" baltic sources:

http://wizind.com/ace.cfm

I got mine at the Timber on Southern in Mesa. They were only $8 per sheet, ten years ago.

Lou
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:
Mark, what is that black crap on the air vent? Sick


PO painted the inside driver cabin flat black...all exposed metal was flat black up front...dash, doors, overhead vents, door frames, etc...it was rad...
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds very Battlestar Galactica to me. I would keep it and install a black light and some neon painted shooting stars on the dash.

And paint a giant neon green marijuana leaf right in the middle of the air vent too.

Finally, to top it off, hang a huge 20-range equalizer under the dash. Make sure it lights up red.
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:

Finally, to top it off, hang a huge 20-range equalizer under the dash. Make sure it lights up red.


not to far off - i think the dash was painted to match the sweet pioneer deck:

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LAGrunthaner
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

marklaken wrote:
Major Woody wrote:
Mark, what is that black crap on the air vent? Sick


PO painted the inside driver cabin flat black...all exposed metal was flat black up front...dash, doors, overhead vents, door frames, etc...it was rad...


Should we treat the inside walls with anything to protect it or leave it the way it is? I have not problem leaving it alone I just want to keep her stock but well protected. Should I use a clear sealant to block moisture and then before I install new wood panels install one of those sound deadener's made of insulation or is that inappropriate?

My hatch area:
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Linda
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Lind wrote:
Have you considered simply starting with a nicer bus? I don't know what your skills are, but the race is easier if you can see the finish line. If you are not a runner, don't start off doing a marathon.
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my bus had fiberglass insulation stuck to the metal - I removed that. The metal was very rust free. I put second skin butyl sound deadener on my roof metal from www.secondskinaudio.com - That is all I intend to do for roof metal treatment.

I treated any rust on the interior walls with sandpaper, followed by Masterseries, http://www.masterseriesct.com/ followed by epoxy primer, then painted "showing" surfaces allowing overspray onto "non showing" surfaces and finally put on second skin on the "non-showing" surfaces...(I repainted my interior walls - not a necessary step for preservation)...
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a bit of surface rust on the inside of the sidewalls where they meet the floor. After dealing with all the rust, I insulated with a single layer of self adhesive sound deadener sheeting from McMaster-Carr, followed by a layer of half inch thick felt carpet padding on the roof and sidewalls, followed by a layer of reflective bubble wrap insulation that they sell at home depot. The cavity is completely full. The bus is like a tomb.
In areas where moisture could potentially condense, I did not use anything absorbent.
Under the plywood floor I used a layer of very thin foam underlayment used under pergo floors and the like. It keeps the floor quiet when you walk on it, and prevents the bottom of the plywood flooring from abrading the paint off the ribs on the cargo floor and starting them rusting again like they did originally.
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77ducci
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just got my Baltic Birch locally. I ordered it on Tuesday and it came in on Thursday. I hope to get started on my sub hatch this week end. I was also able to source some 1/2" Baltic Birch to help rebuild some of the interior seat stands.
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77ducci
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is an update should have most of my interior put back together this week end.

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the rebuild:

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marklaken
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just an fyi for non-puirists - the home depot here has 3'x7' sheets of very thin flexy luan for $5/sheet - I got enough to redo the inside of my hack bus for $35 (5x5 sheets of baltic birch go for $23 each out here) - 2 sheets length wise for ceiling with a trim strip down the middle, and 5 sheets for all the doors, kick panels, corner panels, & long panel

couple coats of clear spar eurathane and they look pretty sharp - update with pics coming soon...
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MrBusCo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone have advice on installing a wood headliner in the cab area of a bus that originally had a fabric headliner? I have the bendy tabs on the air vent, not the channels.

I will need to retrofit something, I am sure someone has done it!

Thanks,

Josh
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