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Pop Out Window Restoration
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should work. The difficulty would be the seal channel to your point.
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How to inner frame to body seal install.

#1 -- some comment that the seal is too large. IMHO what happens is the seal gets stretched during install. Fit the seal in, and when you have extra left, spread the seal back out. Some suggest cutting the seal, don't cut the seal, with time your corners will pull if you resize. You will probably see something like the photos below until you spread it back out.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


#2 -- I suggest you use a weather strip adhesive. The body seal is the only seal which needs adhesive, the two glass frame seals do not. 3M has both a yellow and black version, both will work fine.

-- Glue the side opposite of the window frame hinge, the side with where your latch goes. Start by placing two clamps on your installed seal so you do not pull the seal tight again and end up with the overlap at the end. Apply a thin line to the exterior of the frame at the very edge, and a then place the tip directly in the seal gap and place a thin bead also. Take your time and work carefully, the adhesive has a long working time, and it is suggested you let it tack up. Others have suggested using a brush to spread the adhesive, I found using a brush just makes a mess of things. Have a rag handy as it is likely you will get stringy goop everywhere if you don't keep your fingers clean, and when you lift the glue tip it will likely string out.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once you have reinstalled the now glued side, move on to either the top or bottom of the seal. Do not glue the hinge side, the fourth/hinge side is glued after you install the window.

After you have glued the three sides, install the fourth side with now adhesive to check your fit before the glue sets up. All good? If not readjust the seal to fit. Now check for any adhesive that may have squeezed out of the seal. Fairly easy to remove when still tacky, just use a fingernail or bamboo skewer and grab and edge and roll the adhesive off. After the adhesive dries, you need to use Goo Gone to remove any exposed glue.

Too install the pop out window, coat the exterior window seal with baby powder, have a helper push the completed pop out window into the frame. Not at an angle, in the frame like the window is closed. A friend is a must as the baby powder is slick and the window must be held in or it will drop and hit the floor.

Pull the hinge side seal off so you can access the hinge screws. Use a small punch to align the hinge to screw holes, and screw the 5 connection points hinge to window frame. Once the window is installed, glue the fourth/hinge side of the seal from the inside, and clean up. Install your latch. Done! Now go do the rest.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful write-up.

I have found both these glues, Continental aluminum or carbon rim glue, far superior to 3M stuff these days for rubber.
https://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/service_en/downloads/schlauchreifenkleber_en.html
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One quick question. It has been awhile since I tore mine apart, but, should the headliner material on the cargo doors and window surrounds be installed first? It does go under those window seals, right?

Gordo.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

flemcadiddlehopper wrote:
One quick question. It has been awhile since I tore mine apart, but, should the headliner material on the cargo doors and window surrounds be installed first? It does go under those window seals, right?


Yes, the headliner is wrapped around the window frame metal surround a tiny bit and the rubber covers it.
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flemcadiddlehopper wrote:
One quick question. It has been awhile since I tore mine apart, but, should the headliner material on the cargo doors and window surrounds be installed first? It does go under those window seals, right?

Gordo.


Yes. But no cloth headliner on a Double Cab. Cool
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Bruce Amacker
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where did you get your rubbers from? Mine were from WCM, and if anything, they were too small, not too large, and need to be propped in while glued.

a trick is to take paint stir sticks, glue/staple them to 22 3/4", round the tips, and use them to prop the rubbers in place. Put a bit of glue in the corners as they tend to pull out, let the glue dry a day or two before removing the sticks.

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StockNazi
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce Amacker wrote:
Where did you get your rubbers from? Mine were from WCM, and if anything, they were too small, not too large, and need to be propped in while glued.

a trick is to take paint stir sticks, glue/staple them to 22 3/4", round the tips, and use them to prop the rubbers in place. Put a bit of glue in the corners as they tend to pull out, let the glue dry a day or two before removing the sticks.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
I bought some of these seals from WCM a few months ago , and they are short as described above; they want to pull from the corners if not glued in place.

I have some , also from WCM that are several years old and they are too long, like another person posted their's were.

I think it's a product inconsistency from the manufacture with seals either being a good fit, or too large, too small, etc. Seems hit or miss with most seals unfortunatly.
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce Amacker wrote:
Where did you get your rubbers from? Mine were from WCM, and if anything, they were too small, not too large, and need to be propped in while glued.

a trick is to take paint stir sticks, glue/staple them to 22 3/4", round the tips, and use them to prop the rubbers in place. Put a bit of glue in the corners as they tend to pull out, let the glue dry a day or two before removing the sticks.



Mine are Wolfsburg West
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the too short ones, what happens if you try to stretch them first? They just go back?
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dude!! NICE WORK!!!
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can one of you tell me a couple screw sizes?

Latch to frame
Latch to body

Diameter, pitch and overall length if you can please.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DubStyle wrote:
Can one of you tell me a couple screw sizes?

Latch to frame
Latch to body

Diameter, pitch and overall length if you can please.


Latch to frame -- Pan Head M4 6mm x .7
Latch to body -- Oval M4 12mm x .7
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EDragnDean wrote:
DubStyle wrote:
Can one of you tell me a couple screw sizes?

Latch to frame
Latch to body

Diameter, pitch and overall length if you can please.


Latch to frame -- Pan Head M4 6mm x .7
Latch to body -- Oval M4 12mm x .7


Thank you!
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d-rick
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just ordered and received a set of the body seals and they seem to long, from WW
I didn't stretch them when I installed. I'll try the glue and see if that will hold..I bet it has something to do with the corners and the headliner material?
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

d-rick wrote:
I just ordered and received a set of the body seals and they seem to long, from WW
I didn't stretch them when I installed. I'll try the glue and see if that will hold..I bet it has something to do with the corners and the headliner material?


Common. Just loosen it up All the way around the window. Some people cut them at the seam. YMMV.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

YMMV???

You make me vomit?? Wink


The old ones were cut 10+ yr ago when i installed them...ended up with a gap in the rubber.

Also thanks for the great write up
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

d-rick wrote:
YMMV???

You make me vomit?? Wink


The old ones were cut 10+ yr ago when i installed them...ended up with a gap in the rubber.

Also thanks for the great write up


Laughing YMMV -- Your Mileage May Vary.

Maybe it should be -- YEMV -- Your Emissions May Vary... Shocked

I don't like the idea of cutting the seals. To your point, could cause problems later. Just spread the seal back out so it is loose all the way around the frame. Once you have the gap removed, you can carefully glue it down. Use clamps or painters tape or some such so you don't end up with a GAP on the last side.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 2:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Pop Out Window Restoration Reply with quote

in middle of redoing my popout windows. I have aftermarket frames. Originally bought the outer seal from BusDepo. I had a big issue getting the rubber around the corners. Bought the seals from WW and the issue was solved seems like the seals from WW are a bit smaller and go into the repro frames much easier.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 8:25 am    Post subject: Re: Pop Out Window Restoration Reply with quote

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I just want to make sure that I'm doing this right. I saw that you have to put the "FLAT OUT" I've done two of my six pop outs like this with the flat part out. Is this correct?

These are the WW seals that don't have that curved shape that i've seen in other pictures in this thread.
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