Pop Out Window Restoration

[Kdavid]

Right or wrong ?

did a lot of reading on it one says like this, another like that..
Seals not the same, different brands...
still confused on the subject

Can someone for sure confirm this is the right way

[BarryL]

It looks correct.

Those suckers end up so tight in the opening until the rubber outsidemost lip starts to get a memory of leaning outward. I have even had to put low-tack tape on the paint of the opening for awhile to get them to not stick. Some people have various ideas. I hope yours open up well. Post up your results.

[EverettB]

Yes, it looks correct.

Photo from the first post in this thread

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[Kdavid]

Okey

Thanks for the info 👍🏻

[Maciek.sykut]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. It is a wealth of information as I am considering replacing the pop out windows on my '60 bus.

The one item I have searched for and haven't been able to find is how to best remove the old pop out window hinges which are spot welded to the body. While the hinges still function, there is good amount of rust/corrosion on them which I would like to remove and start with fresh hinges. Is this something that anyone here may have experience with or has come across within the forum search? Thanks in advance!

[EDragnDean]

[Busted-bolt]

This may be an obscene question;has any one ever used the upper front door lip seal for there pop outs? I have ordered two sets of those outer lip seals from reputable vendors for the outer pop out settle frames .All of them are to narrow where they fit in to the groove that secures them to the steel frame. I broke a seam on one and measured it it was the same length as the upper door lip seal.The upper door lip seal does have a wider area where it "T" 's in to the metal. So I was just thinking of joining the ends together with some supper glue to make a pop out seal that don't pop off the window when you try to close it.
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[EverettB]

Which vendors?

The WolfsburgWest ones I bought in the past were too narrow and pop out in places, I don't know if they ever fixed that.

The WestCoastMetric (WCM) ones are the right width for the "T" channel and stay in the groove most of the time.
Sometimes some lubrication or powder is necessary
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[Busted-bolt]

Yes I bought both of them. I figured that the WCM ones would be better but they were just like the WW ones . I just wonder if I got some old stock shrunken ones from WCM. I've tried everything silicone lube ,graphite and dish soap with the same result that stiff rubber just won't go into the window opening with out popping off the frame . I looked at the remains of the old ones and they very adequately filled the grove in the frame. I would feel confidant in saying that O/G seals would not have had this problem.
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Vw collection 60 combi ,61 panel ,62 deluxe micro,82 diesel Westfalia,88 Vanagon synchro,98 Jetta tdi,11 Jetta tdi mt ,11 Jetta tdi dsg.
I do all my own work,body,engine and transmission.

[EverettB]

The original ones are wider than all the repros I have seen.

I posted some measurements in page 2 of this thread
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=403739
Wow, it was from 2010...

I only had the corners popping out on my frames
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[Thompson2]

I posted on the page that Everett linked to. Hopefully there's an update that's less than a decade old on these...

[Thompson2]

Maybe a dumb question - are the hinge screws the same as the screws holding the frame halves together? And does someone have the sizes for both? Looks like they're both flat head phillips...

[BarryL]

[EverettB]

[Thompson2]

[BarryL]

Wolfsburg West's replacement screws used to be larger on the tapered head so they stuck out a little on the hinge part. I don't know if they fixed that. Originals are the best, of course. I've seen some NOS ones that even had a flat part before the countersink started so instead of tightening down against the thread's top they tightened against the hinge or frame.

[Thompson2]

I started working on the first of my pop outs and it’s gone relatively smoothly. First question I’ve run into - the body to frame seal isn’t smooth in the corners. I can either get it to smooth out or I can have it fully seated onto the lip on the body but not both at the same time...

This was the best I could get it... all 4 corners are similar. is this normal or do I need to muck with it some more? And if so, any suggestions on making it better?

If it matters, this is from WCM....

[Thompson2]

Next question - anyone have experience with West Coast Metric frame / hinge screws? They are longer than the OG screws and stick out further both on the outside (which makes me think they'll make getting the outer seal in even more fun) and the inside (which makes me worry that it'll hit and shatter the glass) I did verify that the frame was tight with just the WCM screw in it, so it's doing its job, but it makes me nervous...

And a tip - since they are originally slotted screws, there's plenty of opportunity to strip them and brush up on you drill skills... I used an impact driver that I modified the bit for so it was a snug fit in the slots... gentle taps with a medium sized hammer made pretty quick work of the ones I hadn't already stripped.

[livingskies]

We are getting ready to install the seals around the pop out windows and then install the windows in the bus - trying to learn the tricks and pitfalls in advance. The seals appear to be West Coast Metric seals.

EverettB posted pictures near the beginning of this thread (also copied above on this page) about the orientation of the seal that fits into the groove around the outside of the pop out window. It clearly appears that the seal lip angles outward. Kdavid then posted a picture (also above on this page) asking about the orientation of the seal. In his pictures, the seal lip angles inward.

In other words, to my eyes, EverettB appears to be saying the opposite of Kdavid. Can someone confirm the correct way to install this seal? I wonder whether the way that EverettB appears to illustrate may work better and result in fewer issues with poor fitting or difficult to close/open windows.

EDIT: On looking at the pictures again, what may be confusing me is that in EverettB's illustrations, the seal leans to the outside, while in Kdavid's illustrations the seal leans to the inside. In both examples, the lip beside the seal base goes to the outside. Hoping that the WCM seal leans to the outside as that likely would make for easier operation of the windows.

[EverettB]

This is correct for the orientation with the lip:

Brand new seals are not so curved though, that is an older seal that has curved into that shape.

They are more straight up and down when installed but they do angle to one side a little and I think it is the inside.

They are tight when first installed but bend into shape after a while.
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