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Largest Capacity Auxiliary Battery in stock location
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fasteddy64
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a simple alternative from Sam's or Wal Mart for us casual campers?
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fasteddy64
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a simple alternative from Sam's or Wal Mart for us casual campers?
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westyventures
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

warren C wrote:

Karl,

How are you recharging these wheelchair batteries. I read that you couldn't just charge these as a normal auxiliary battery with the alternator.....but needed an intelligent, low-amperage charger to charge them up, ...something like a separate charging system running from an inverter....while driving.

Is this not necessary??? and the alternator charge works

If so, what amp output is your alternator for this setup

Warren C.

Warren, yes it is very important that they see enough voltage, as any AGM battery will require. For the stock WBX alternator there is an available adjustable regulator to boost the charge voltage to 13.8~13.9. I've seen many old Vanagons only receiving 13.2 or slightly more at the battery. Of course, with other modern engines like the Subaru and TDI, the voltage is normally already set there. This will keep the batteries happy most of the time. I would recommend using a 'smart' charger on them every few cycles for best life and full charging.

Karl
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WestyVentures. I like your setup. Who did you purchase the batteries from? What sort of warranty? Are they rated for a particular number of discharges? Thank you for any more information. I found some on the internet, but I bet the freight could add up.
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PDXWesty
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like this is the battery that was used. Using three would allow you to keep the relay in the stock position.

http://www.batteriesasap.com/48.html

.
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westyventures
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PDXWesty wrote:
Looks like this is the battery that was used. Using three would allow you to keep the relay in the stock position.

http://www.batteriesasap.com/48.html

.


There is no 'stock position' unless you have a half-camper/multivan that was originally equipped with dual batteries. The fridge relay should not be used for battery charging as it isn't heavy duty enough. A 70 A relay would be adequate, but not a 30 A, long-term. The relays can be safely moved slightly forward to beneath the seat, clearing space for the 4 batteries. Better yet would be to use a SurePower 1315 battery separator. These work as a super-heavy relay but with the added option of flipping a switch to jumpstart the engine from the aux. battery. I installed one on another customer van a few weeks ago, very slick.
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westyventures
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
WestyVentures. I like your setup. Who did you purchase the batteries from? What sort of warranty? Are they rated for a particular number of discharges? Thank you for any more information. I found some on the internet, but I bet the freight could add up.


Check eBay, I got mine there from Battery Warehouse in Rochester, sometimes they have a sale with free shipping on multiple battery purchases. I'm not sure what the warranty length is.


Last edited by westyventures on Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:49 am; edited 2 times in total
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could not resist. I purchased 4 from batteriesasp. I had some money in my PayPal account from cleaning out my garage. The freight to florida for 4 batteries was about $40. I am trying to get ready for a camping trip and have been putting off an auxilary battery setup. Currently I have a trolling motor battery under the back seat that is not tied into anything. I have a 3 way lighter attachment for a fan and reading light. I think this setup will be perfect. Thank you for the inspiration. mark
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
I could not resist. I purchased 4 from batteriesasp. I had some money in my PayPal account from cleaning out my garage. The freight to florida for 4 batteries was about $40. I am trying to get ready for a camping trip and have been putting off an auxilary battery setup. Currently I have a trolling motor battery under the back seat that is not tied into anything. I have a 3 way lighter attachment for a fan and reading light. I think this setup will be perfect. Thank you for the inspiration. mark



Please post how well this setup works for you, I tried a very simular set-up with just two batteries and it didn't work as well as the basic setup I had in the first place, I'm thinking about a couple of regular sized batteries in seperate banks.
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1621
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
I could not resist. I purchased 4 from batteriesasp. I had some money in my PayPal account from cleaning out my garage. The freight to florida for 4 batteries was about $40. I am trying to get ready for a camping trip and have been putting off an auxilary battery setup. Currently I have a trolling motor battery under the back seat that is not tied into anything. I have a 3 way lighter attachment for a fan and reading light. I think this setup will be perfect. Thank you for the inspiration. mark


Cool. Make certain to update us on how it all turns out. Pictures are always nice if you have the time.
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iiigoiii
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there's only one concern i'd have about a setup like this....

i thought that simply connecting multiple rechargeables in parallel isn't a good idea? as one begins to go bad, won't the others be continually trying to 'charge' it? it seems like any change in the voltage or wear or efficiency of one of the batteries could begin to degrade the others....

then again, all car batteries are a series of cells in parallel anyway. anyone know if this could be a concern?
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
then again, all car batteries are a series of cells in parallel anyway. anyone know if this could be a concern?


No, all car batteries are a series of cells, six 2V cells to be exact. There's no parallelling of cells in a car starting battery. The problem you cite, though, is a real concern when paralleling batteries, so occasionally the parallelled batteries should be isolated and the rest voltage of each checked in order to catch any that are failing, because a bad one, or even a single bad cell in one, will draw charge off the others continuously and eventually ruin them as well, as you said. That's just a basic aspect of ganging batteries in whatever configuration, and something to be aware of, for sure. Scrambling the positions of the batteries within the pack occasionally can actually help a lot with this. Maybe a yearly V check and shuffle should be part of the normal maintenance routine.

Managing this problem has been a longstanding challenge in the solar energy world. There is a new device being marketed for solar battery banks that monitors parallelled batteries and attempts to equalise their charges during charge/discharge cycling. It's pretty new and I haven't read any reports on it in use yet. It's the kind of thing, though, that probably costs more than it's worth for tiny battery banks like we're talking about here, where a single battery is so cheap and overall cycling is relatively light.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The batteries showed up the other day. I finally got around to pulling the driver's seat and seeing how they would fit. I had to drill out the rivets for the cover and remove it. Maybe the 82 Diesel is tighter? Or maybe in production the battery case is slightly larger. I also had to remove the lower sheet metal screw for the table support bracket. I will through bolt it from the inside of the box. Even with the lid off, the battery barely slides in. My intention was to fab a bus bar as pictured, but I am concerned I may not be able to drop all 4 in as an assembly. I could trim the lid lip, but would rather not at this early juncture. This would require installing the bus bar after the batteries are installed individually. It could be a pain in the A** to start the bolts on the middle two batteries. I have been thinking about going to heavy gauge wire loops instead. I am going to tackle it more this weekend. I will take some pictures.
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westyventures
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
The batteries showed up the other day. I finally got around to pulling the driver's seat and seeing how they would fit. I had to drill out the rivets for the cover and remove it. Maybe the 82 Diesel is tighter? Or maybe in production the battery case is slightly larger. I also had to remove the lower sheet metal screw for the table support bracket. I will through bolt it from the inside of the box. Even with the lid off, the battery barely slides in. My intention was to fab a bus bar as pictured, but I am concerned I may not be able to drop all 4 in as an assembly. I could trim the lid lip, but would rather not at this early juncture. This would require installing the bus bar after the batteries are installed individually. It could be a pain in the A** to start the bolts on the middle two batteries. I have been thinking about going to heavy gauge wire loops instead. I am going to tackle it more this weekend. I will take some pictures.


All battery boxes 'should' be the same size, all years of Vanagon production. When I installed four together as a unit I did remove the lid rivets and then used screws to reattach it when the battery work was done. If you have the same batteries I used then there should be no other clearancing required.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see why you have a strap for removal. Because of the battery hold down, the batteries can not drop straight in. They need to go in on a slight angle. I was only working with one of the four. I agree, you won't get much more in there. Removing the cover was fine. I don't expect to have to remove them very often, but want to be sure I can drop them in. Once I have the bus bar made, I'll have a better idea. I have the exact same batteries. Thank you. I'll report back.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reviving this thread...

Have you finished your battery installation ? Any updates/final report ? Did you use a Yandina separator or similar ?

I liked very much how you described the fitting problems and such, it's very useful. I'm planning to add an aux bettery in a couple of weeks, and would like to use a similar setup (this is the only setup I know of that can fit 88 Ah in the stock location with no mods to the batteries)
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ran into a snag. I knew there would be a problem with the bus bar in its design, but could not figure out exactly where. Decided to mill the aluminum and see what I ended up with. The terminals stand taller than the batteries. My hope was to machine the aluminum so the steps would rest on top of the battery case when attached to the terminals. I ended up machining too much meat away. So the terminals would attach fine, but there is a gap above the battery cases I'd rather not have. So now I have a model to work from.

While all this is going on, I am also trying to install a new type sequential transmission in my race car. The next race is November 15, so the battery project got moved to the back burner. If I don't get the car ready for the race, we may go camping over thanksgiving weekend, in which case the battery project will move back to the front of the line.

My original intention is to use the OE auxilary battery relay. Or upgrade to a heavier relay if it is problematic. These batteries are not rated for cranking amps, so I do not intend to add a device similar to the Yadina at this time. My Vanagon was originally a NA diesel. So the main battery is mounted in the engine compartment. It would be a lot of extra cable to setup the cabin battery for cranking.

One last note. The short peice of aluminum angle I purchased from HD was 3 feet long and cost almost $10. It was ok, until I made the parts wrong. I will report my progress as I get started again. I can also post a picture of my missmade bus bars to save others wasting any aluminum. Cheers.
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KYLE automotive spec
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could you post a picture of the battery setup in the engine compartment. I have been tossing around the idea of using the space behind the right taillight for the starting battery. I would love to see how VW did it from the factory.

Thanks in advance,
KYLE
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kyle, here is one of the pictures I uploaded here. With the TDI it is quite cramped, but you can see the battery bottom right of picture.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:

My original intention is to use the OE auxilary battery relay. Or upgrade to a heavier relay if it is problematic. These batteries are not rated for cranking amps, so I do not intend to add a device similar to the Yadina at this time. My Vanagon was originally a NA diesel. So the main battery is mounted in the engine compartment. It would be a lot of extra cable to setup the cabin battery for cranking.


Just be aware, the problems with the small relays aren't only due to using it in parallel while starting (which is hardly ever done, anyway, since that's the whole reason to have a separate cabin battery); you may still see overcurrent on that light-duty relay even while charging. If you discharge your aux battery pack aways, it can admit bulk current well in excess of the actual ampacity of the small relay. Another poster here awhile back reported overcurrent on a stock relay with just a 44Ah battery after discharging it fairly deeply; the smell of wire insulation burning is what alerted him, and the relay was too hot to touch. Bulk current at a given voltage state will be greater with bigger battery capacity. So keep an eye on that. Something heavier-duty would be safer right up front.
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