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Replacement for '67 fuel gauge?
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orangebychoice
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 2:29 pm    Post subject: Replacement for '67 fuel gauge? Reply with quote

I can't afford nos right now, is there a compatable fuel gauge for my bus. I need a 12v replacement, pretty much anything compatable, size or color isn't an issue, I need to know how much gas I have! I'll figure out a place for a weird guage for now!
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Culito
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure, but I think a common 6v bus fuel gauge will work just fine. You'll need a 12v bulb for the light.
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chrome
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive used plenty of 6volt gauges with 12 volt systems and never had any problems, just use a 12 volt bulb Very Happy
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dstefun
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want a 6 volt gauge to last longer on 12 volts, put a 100 ohm 1 watt resistor in series with the power lead. Radio Shack has them. Be sure to insulate the bare wires!
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Ragman
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dstefun wrote:
If you want a 6 volt gauge to last longer on 12 volts, put a 100 ohm 1 watt resistor in series with the power lead. Radio Shack has them. Be sure to insulate the bare wires!


Is this necessary? How long do 6V gauges take to burn out running 12V?
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dstefun
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ragman wrote:
dstefun wrote:
If you want a 6 volt gauge to last longer on 12 volts, put a 100 ohm 1 watt resistor in series with the power lead. Radio Shack has them. Be sure to insulate the bare wires!


Is this necessary? ?


Necessary? Maybe not. Recommended? Yes. VDO added an 82 ohm 1 watt resistor internal to the gauge when they went to 12 volt. Even Bay bus gas gauges up to the mid-70's or so have the 82 ohm resistor in the gauge. 100 ohm resistors are just much easier to find than 82's.

Ragman wrote:
How long do 6V gauges take to burn out running 12V?


Time is relative. How long does it take to blow an engine? Maybe 20 seconds, maybe never.
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BlastMasterMannyFresh
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

since we're in the subject, I have a 6 volt gauge in my 67 and for the longest it would only make it up to about 3/4 of a tank when I filled up then work its way down slowly and by the time it got to the R I would still have about a lot of gas left in the tank, this year I replaced the ground thinking it was weak, immidiately it jumped to full tank which got me all wet in my pants bc I did have a full tank of gas at the moment, well aperantly I havent used any gas this year bc it's still on full and not moving, could it be the sender that's messed up? or perhaps the gauge messed up? or a combination of both?
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wanta23
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How can I tell the difference between a 6 and 12 volt?
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BlastMasterMannyFresh
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wanta23 wrote:
How can I tell the difference between a 6 and 12 volt?

6volts has a a 6v stamped in the back, 12 volt would have a 12v
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cru62
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My DC has a ghia guage. Same diameter. Of course, it isn't shaped to fit the bus dash. But I bet you could swap the rings or just leave it, like I did mine. The only people who notice are the stock Nazi's anyway.
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dstefun
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mannys66 wrote:
it's still on full and not moving, could it be the sender that's messed up? or perhaps the gauge messed up? or a combination of both?

When you replaced the ground wire, did you accidentally ground both brown wires at the tank? Short brown wire at the sender goes from sender mounting screw to body ground, long brown wire goes from sender terminal to the gauge.

At the sender, unhook the long brown wire from the gauge to the sender terminal, NOT the short brown wire from the sender mounting screw to the body. With the key on, the gauge should now read empty. If it doesn't, the wire is grounded somewhere between the gauge and the sender, or the guage could be grounded internally and then you have to replace the gauge. Check the wiring first. If the gauge still reads full at this point, remove the brown wire from the gauge and it should drop to empty. If not, bad gauge. If you took it off, be sure to put the wire back on the gauge before the next check.

If the gauge drops to empty on the above check, ground the wire you removed from the sender terminal to the body. With the key on, the gauge should read full. If that works, then your gauge is fine and the sender is bad or just stuck. Since you have to pull the engine to pull the tank to remove the sender, you might as well replace it with a new one. $39 from Chris Seeger @ L5VW in Salem. The sender is the same for 6V or 12V, just the gauge is different.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=614029
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bushaus
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once again Dave, you're answering questions that are swirling through my head.....thanks
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BlastMasterMannyFresh
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dstefun wrote:
mannys66 wrote:
it's still on full and not moving, could it be the sender that's messed up? or perhaps the gauge messed up? or a combination of both?

When you replaced the ground wire, did you accidentally ground both brown wires at the tank? Short brown wire at the sender goes from sender mounting screw to body ground, long brown wire goes from sender terminal to the gauge.

At the sender, unhook the long brown wire from the gauge to the sender terminal, NOT the short brown wire from the sender mounting screw to the body. With the key on, the gauge should now read empty. If it doesn't, the wire is grounded somewhere between the gauge and the sender, or the guage could be grounded internally and then you have to replace the gauge. Check the wiring first. If the gauge still reads full at this point, remove the brown wire from the gauge and it should drop to empty. If not, bad gauge. If you took it off, be sure to put the wire back on the gauge before the next check.

If the gauge drops to empty on the above check, ground the wire you removed from the sender terminal to the body. With the key on, the gauge should read full. If that works, then your gauge is fine and the sender is bad or just stuck. Since you have to pull the engine to pull the tank to remove the sender, you might as well replace it with a new one. $39 from Chris Seeger @ L5VW in Salem. The sender is the same for 6V or 12V, just the gauge is different.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=614029


thanks for the tutorial, I know where to start now.
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