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GreenMachineVW
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow. That is exactly the information I was looking for! While I have heard nothing but good about the propex, it just does not fit into my scheme of space usage. I would rather avoid using any of the usual mounting spots:

Since I have an Air-Cooled Westphalia, I like to keep under the seat clear and available for large Rubbermaid storage boxes:

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Behind the passenger seat is reserved for the easily removable storage box:

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Under the sink the Munchkin Microwave lives:

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And the wardrobe in the rear has been converted to shelf space. That cabinet next to the fridge, however, I would not miss. I, too, have an inverter there, and my main concern is if I can get it all to fit. From the photos you show, I think it will fit, with at most minor modification. Also most convienient for piping and wiring.

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Thanks!
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vwsyncroguy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GreenMachineVW wrote:

............. I, too, have an inverter there, and my main concern is if I can get it all to fit. From the photos you show, I think it will fit, with at most minor modification. Also most convienient for piping and wiring.

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Thanks!


Looks like you have almost the same configuration of gear as Troy, ..with the inverter....just need to move things around a bit to make them fit like his install.

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I like the idea of having the bottom plug of his electrical outlet to his inverter and his extra 12v lighter socket.


Warren C.
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GreenMachineVW
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am hoping to be able to leave the inverter where it is, as I have rearranged the outlet and circuit breaker. I put the circuit breaker piggybacked on the outlet, and I use the top position for a DPDT switch for Shore/Inverter to the outlets, and a little lighted switch to a relay to turn on the inverter. I replaced the outlet with a GFCI model (still protected by the circuit breaker), so as to have a little indicator light for power to the outlets, and the inverter switch also lights up when the inverter is powered on.

From the photos it looks tight, but I think there is enough give in the current setup so that it should all work.

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914 mike
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pulled a Hydroflame out of a Toyota camper at the wrecking yard. Paid $20 for it. Got it home, hooked it up to my BBQ propane and a spare battery and if fired right up. I then fashioned it inside a wood box I pulled out of somebody's trash pile.

I set it outside my rig when I camp with a 3lb propane tank, run a piece of insulated dryer ducting from it to my drivers side window where I hook it to a register I created to roll the window up to.

I run the ground wire and the thermostat wires out the box and just shut the door on them. Hook ups for these are in the rig.

I place the thermostat inside my rig, set it at the desired temp and it pumps warm, forced air into my rig. Its a great set up and I think I have a total of $50 in the whole thing. I did spend for a co2/monoxide detector just to be on the safe side....

Its cheap. It doesn't take up precious space in my rig when I dont need heat. Packs perfectly in the luggage rack when I do want to bring it along...and I am willing to bet it works just as good, if not better, than any $700+ set up.

Mike

84 westy, 2.2 suby
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CREGAN
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a Hydro Flame (Atwood). PO did not know much about it so as I poked around I noticed that the thing had been sucking in a ton of water. Vent tube rusted right out.
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It is a nice little unit though. I plan on buying the new vent kit this summer ($100) and fixin it up. Anyone know about the actual vent opening - Is there a cap you can put on like the fridge vent to seal it off? Is there an actual vent opening that you can put on that can seal itself off from the elements? I always worry about it taking in a ton of water.

Here is one that was for sale a while ago on here. I kept the pics to see what it looked like form the inside.
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hiram6
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just purchased one of these a few minutes ago from the eBay vendor who is selling them for $289. I had an eBay coupon that gave me 15% off any purchase from eBay Motors, so even with shipping I wound up at $276.

I have been wanting the Propex for a while, but this was too good a deal to pass up.

Now I'm debating adding a second propane tank. It never ends.
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GreenMachineVW
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

@hiram6: That's great. I'm afraid with the warm weather coming, I may put this on the "back burner" until next fall. I probably don't need to ask ... but please take lots of photos and post them!
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GreenMachineVW
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@hiram6: Ever get around to doing the install, or is it on the back burner till the weather cools down?
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hiram6
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been on the back burner (no pun intended), but is moving up. I decided to go whole-hog so to speak and mount a second propane tank dedicated to the furnace. powder coating place called today and said it was ready after being media blasted and powder coated a fresh gloss white. I'll pick it up next week, and then try to find time to mount the tank and install the furnace within the next few weeks.

After sweating today in traffic, though, I'm tempted to work on the A/C instead!!! It'll be quite a few months before I care about the furnace working!!
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Alaric.H
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that the real estate in the van is worth something maybe not 500$
but something that Atwood take up a fair amount of storage and there is not enough as it is. One whole cabinet taken away now that's some thing I can not afford. The Atwood is great deal but I would only use it on a non stock conversion. But what do I care I use diesel I like the built in two week fuel supply plus it take up no really usable space.
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CREGAN
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alaric.H wrote:
I think that the real estate in the van is worth something maybe not 500$
but something that Atwood take up a fair amount of storage and there is not enough as it is. One whole cabinet taken away now that's some thing I can not afford. The Atwood is great deal but I would only use it on a non stock conversion.


Sure it takes up some space, but you even said there is not much as it is. What is one more rubbermaid tote. I found that with it i use the space I've got way more effectively. I like it and think it serves more function than a propex - at way less of a cost. Having the second tank is a conversation starter as well.

Craig
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hiram6
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alaric.H wrote:
I think that the real estate in the van is worth something maybe not 500$
but something that Atwood take up a fair amount of storage and there is not enough as it is. One whole cabinet taken away now that's some thing I can not afford. The Atwood is great deal but I would only use it on a non stock conversion. But what do I care I use diesel I like the built in two week fuel supply plus it take up no really usable space.


Well, I'm fine with giving up that space because, for me, it's not a cabinet space that I find all that usefull. It's too narrow for a lot of things I would want to store, and is also limited by the size of the access door. I personally would have a harder time giving up space under the rear bench for a Propex install. I also like how the Atwwod has both the intake and exhaust plumbed into one external port. I do wish they included some type of cover to prevent water or critter ingress when the furnace isn't being used. I'll have to fabricate something.

Anyway, just my opinion, which only matters to me and my van. It's just a good thing to have options, and for me, the Atwood makes sense.
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1996 Mazda Miata
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited

You can't lie around on the beach and drink rum all day.................unless you start first thing in the morning.


Last edited by hiram6 on Sat Jun 13, 2009 2:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Alaric.H
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well if its in thats that the holes are made and there is no going back I see you have two buy a thermostat can it be switched for high attitude?
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CREGAN
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hiram6 wrote:
I do wish they included some type of cover to prevent water or critter ingress when the furnace isn't being used. I'll have to fabricate something.


When you do build something I would like to have a peek. For now I use really classy black duct tape. Yeah, that's how we roll here.
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 11:24 am    Post subject: Atwood Hydoflame 7912 8012 Blower Motor Compatibility Reply with quote

I checked the internet for info on changing the blower motor and I could not find anything that would tell me if you can change the 7912 3.4 amp motor with the 1.8 amp 8012 motor, #36122. I called Atwood but could not get past customer service. I went ahead with swapping motors and I wanted to share my experience. I actually have the 7916 model which also has a larger propane orifice, but otherwise the 7912 to 7920 appear to be the same and the 8012-II is the newest addition with the lower battery draw.

The Atwood parts listing only shows 3 parts that are different from the 7912 compared to the 8012. The fan motor, the blower wheel and the sail switch. The 8012 is designed as front discharge only while the others can be ducted side or front or both. I guessed that they limited the 8012 to front discharge due to the weaker motor. The blower wheel might be lighter or smaller also. The sail switch opens once the blower wheel starts blowing air past it. I’m guessing they put a more sensitive sail switch on the 8012 too. I was prepared to buy all three parts, which would have cost about $110 online, but I started with just the motor and that seems to be all I need. I assumed if the motor was too weak, the overheat switch would shut the heater down if the blower didn’t blow enough air to keep the furnace cool. I also thought it might not start if the motor didn’t have enough power to engage the sail switch. But everything seems to work with just the motor switched out. The motor cost less than the stock one too, only $60 at anyrvparts on ebay. The 8012 motor draws 1.8 amps compared to 3.4. That is much better and I think I can run the heater all night long and not deplete very much of the aux. battery (1.8 x 10 hrs is only 18 Amp hours) and have excess power for the DVD player, camp lights etc.

I will do some long term testing and post back if anything changes.

[O.k. so I have been using the heater in that portable box a few times in this Colorado winter and the new lower amp motor works fine. I am drawing only 1.8 amps instead of 3.4 and still getting 12K btu output.

I tested the furnace overnight, running it for 10.5 hours set to 55 degrees, top down, with it about 20 degrees outside all night. That isn't super cold though. The battery is just a walmart group 48 car battery that fits in the drivers box. It is brand new and overnight, it went from 12.7 volts to 12.44 volts, which seems to be fine. In the above test, the furnace seemed to cycle on 1/3 of the time or less. On a colder night ~8 degrees, it seemed to run 1/2 the time.

But the portable box has got to go. One poster said he rigged his atwood for outside use and ran a vent in the window, which would be better for noise. My portable box pictured here sits on top of the closed stove so you have to figure another way to make your morning coffee. Plus it takes up a lot of room and you have to move it around. Overall not an ideal solution.....

I just finished mounting it permanently in the little cabinet next to the fridge like most people do. It was a time consuming and you have to cut a hole in the side of your van and cut a little bit of the cabinet. The propane connections took a couple tries to get it right. I trimmed the back of the furnace sheet metal but still needed a 1 1/4" spacer so it doesn't look as neat as the installs on page 1 but still looks and fits nice overall]

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Last edited by davevickery on Sat Feb 19, 2011 5:09 pm; edited 4 times in total
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XXX/Rx/RnR
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I couldn't get power to open the gas valve on my 7600 hydro- flame till I got the proper flow throught it. My installion is under the bus tho. All safty related safeguards to shut it down if the opening gets blocked. I posted pics in the gallery. Tied in to the vents so I can defrost the winshield.
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Blood Loss
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOVE my Atwood. Bought it last year (<$300 on eBay) installed it exactly as per VWSYNCROGUYS most excellently documented and photographed instructions. WORKS GREAT. Doesn't seem to use very much propane.
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Postman4555
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 6:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Atwood Furnace Reply with quote

Is there a forum of how to instal an Atwood furnace that's on here? I'm looking
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newfisher
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 6:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Atwood Furnace Reply with quote

Postman4555 wrote:
Is there a forum of how to instal an Atwood furnace that's on here? I'm looking


Scroll back to page 1.
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TopBud
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 7:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Atwood Furnace Reply with quote

I had a 74 westy and had a suburban (dry similar to the Atwood) furnace in it. I loved it. They are much cheaper than the proper but take up a ton more space. I currently have a passenger syncro with an adventure wagon bed installed. I like the openness of the interior but want heat for when ski bumming. I am following all of the heater threads.
In my experience:
I camped next to people with the proper at BBB 15, the proper was loud on the outside. My Suburban wasn't as loud and I was able to drive with it on. I never stay anywhere for more than 3 nights so never had to worry about the battery going dead. I got mine for http://www.adventurerv.net/suburban-nt20se-nt20se-...-3838.html
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