Runs so cool in the 100+ Heat? Dog house cooling?

[carterzest]

2nd 1974 Thing, Rolf. Just had all fuel lines replaced-tank is clean and no sediment, tuned up, valve job, Brakes, Belts, Battery, New tires, exhaust.....all of the necessities. I fill the tank every other time with Supreme. Runs great cold, but, if I shut it down prior to 20-30 minutes of Freeway or around town running, Rolf just does not like to start back up with ease.

I had the same issue with my previous, less mechanically perfect 1974 Thing (11 years ago) and it seems to me that someone advised that the Doghouse Cooling on 1974's especially, makes them run cold blooded even in really hot weather. My question is, Does anyone else have this issue? Rolf runs sweet in cooler weather. Oil types make a difference and what are you all running for oil in the summer and winter. I am in Portland Oregon.

Last night I stopped off for various sundries after work after driving only 2 miles and it took awhile to get it started again. Seems almost like it was flooded. Finally starts but runs rough upon startup. That is after fielding 6 peoples questions and talking about what a cool and rare car the Thing is. kinda embarrasing.
Common issue? Any recommendations or workarounds?

Thanks in advance for your comebacks!

Jeffrey
Carterzest
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Happiness=Portland, Oregon in the rearview mirror!

[spam38]

its possible that the fuel in the carb is boiling and flooding the car ihave the same problem and i just hold it to the floor when it happens the grade of gasoline now days boils more quickly the in the days of leaded gas you can also try opening the engine hatch and see if that helps out and then you can be sure its boiling fuel

[carterzest]

[thinghunter]

On all my stock VWs it seems like it depends on engine temp how I need to start the engine(seems like I got most of this out of an old owners manual). If cold(first start of the day) push gas pedal to floor and release then turn key(seems to work everytime). If recently shut off and still hot(like prob within 30 mins) don't touch gas pedal just turn key. If still warm but has been sitting a while(this is when it seems like it has the most trouble starting) I have to turn the key while slowly depressing gas pedal. I think in the later case the warmer the engine is the harder it is to start and you should probably try the second method first.

[carterzest]

[alg]

If you read the VW 'users guide' for the U.S. 73 and 74 Thing, it clearly states that when the engine is warm you need to put the pedal almost to the floor and hold it there while starting.

My Thing is completely stock and I do this everytime I start it warm.
(I live in Central Texas where it is 100f for months on end)

Again, the procedure is for a stock Thing. If you have a different/bad carb or ignition, or you have a leak in the throttle shafts then this may not work.

alg

[carterzest]

[Eric Goodman]

I have the exact problem with my 1973 thing. Runs great all day and when it is hot (So Cal 100+ now) after driving all day the car will not start. I just looked in the manual as suggested and will try this next time. Will post more info or would like to know if this works for you...

[uberautowerks]

Here's another tip... I've seen lots of mis-adjusted chokes over the years. Typically adjusted too "tight". As such the choke it too far closed too early on a still hot engine. The choke should be mostly open after a half an hour in 100 degree heat. This can be seen on the left side of the carb, the arm on the choke cam directly relates to the choke plate angle. The choke can be adjusted by rotating the choke heater can, after loosening the three small screws on the right side. Rotate the top of the can towards the rear to loosen the choke.

I do this twice a year, once in the winter (tighten the choke) and again in the summer (loosen).
_________________
--- The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair.
- Douglas Adams -
---
'74 Thing (White)
'71 Single cab (White too)
'70 Weekender (White three)
'05 Evolution VIII (White also!!!)
'68 F-250 (White over black)

[carterzest]

[thinghunter]

What I've been told is the ear muffs are to keep exhaust fumes out of the fresh air heater system. This makes since since the 73 Things didn't have the muffs or a fresh air heater. What also sells me on this is the vents are in the top of the muffs, if it was for better cooling I would think they would be on the front to force more air in. Also, my 73 doesn't have any problem with overheating in the 100+ weather so I would wonder what would make them think they needed better cooling.

[carterzest]

[Skorzeny's G Ride]

On starting 2 pumps and the third goes to the floor. Turn the key and slowly depress the pedal until is starts. Starts every single time in 110 degrees after driving.
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...70 type 181
...59 Beetle
...62 beetle baja (new)

[carterzest]

[7thing3]

Until you get a seal take a tennis ball and cut a slit and put it on the latch mechanism. Not sure about the cooling effect but it should stop the annoying rattle.

[Eric Goodman]

Could the seal make that happen? I have not drove mine yet to try the starting info and see if it helps the car start when it is hot. My lid seal is fine, but I do have a few holes in the seal around the engine... I read in old post that you had to remove the engine to replace. Any fix for the holes? Thanks.

[uberautowerks]

The missing decklid seal won't cause over heating issues. Rattles yes. Now the compartment seal, between the engine and the body, is another story. A missing compartment seal will cause overheating.
Also the stock cooling system works great, neither over cooling nor under cooling when adjusted properly AND with all it's bits in place. Your starting issues are typical of a hot engine, not a cool engine.
_________________
--- The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair.
- Douglas Adams -
---
'74 Thing (White)
'71 Single cab (White too)
'70 Weekender (White three)
'05 Evolution VIII (White also!!!)
'68 F-250 (White over black)

[stevehenderson]

I don't think your car will over cool unless your thermostat is broke did you check it.

"what are you all running for oil in the summer and winter."

Run Brad Racing Oil--Jake Raby recommended and it and it works great in AC motors. It has highest--1,500 ppm Zinc (Zn) and 1340-1400 ppm Phosphorus (P) content.

Contact them directly via there web site, http://www.bradpennracing.com/ ,and they will email you telling you the nearest distributor #. Then call the distributor who will give you the # of the local retailer. It is abut $4.00 a quart if you buy a case.

[Eric Goodman]

When I got my car the old owner said he was using 30W oil all year (So Cal). I have not had it changed yet, it has only been a few months.

[stevehenderson]

Oil won't make much of difference in starting but he asked what we run. Allot of modern brand oil is not so good for ACVW because it no longer has stuff EPA dose not like much anymore. Brad Penn has a 10W30.

I have to floorboard my pedal and turn it over 3-5 sec ever time after it's first started. I have not been able to fix this--tried many things. It fires instantly after setting a long time. I was told to check the fuel level after running the carb--but mine seems fine. I guess I'll try a different carb one of these days.