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Sanding off Rust - Now what?
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BellePlaine
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:36 am    Post subject: Sanding off Rust - Now what? Reply with quote

I can't afford to have my bus media blasted and professionally painted. And I really want to take the family camping next year so I've decided I'm going to have to do my own body and paint work. I've read all of the body/paint forum stickys and checked out some related YouTube vids however I still need a some direction on how best to restore my bus' body.

Here's some pics of the sanding I've done on the rust from the broken paint. Is this enough sanding? I know that I need to use a finer grit to smooth out the metal before I add primer.

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Here is a pic of the primers the FLAPS sold me. He said to use the Brite Touch first and the Metal Cast second. Should I give these spots the POR-15 treatment first? When it comes time to painting, do you think I should paint the whole car, or just the treated spots?

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I've just been hand sanding these spots. This dog leg looks like it's going to need something more aggressive. I can get a wire wheel for my drill, would that work?

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What's recommended for the inside of the passenger door? The POR-15 treatment? Do I have to find a way to sand down the rust or can I just spray the POR-15 treatment on without sanding?

BTW, I know about the POR-15 cleaner and metal treatment before using the POR-15.

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Thanks for your help. I know that this may seem pretty basic but this is my first time doing this kind of work. It took a lot of confidence just to start and now I'm committed! I'm good at following directions but not so good at knowing what to do.

Chris
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upsfella
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Da sander with 40 grit should take you to bare metal in no time..
dont recomend the drill method, you will be all over the place!

progressive grit and sanding, 40, 80, 120, high build primer, 180..
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Krmnnghia
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Location: Michigan, Land of salty roads!
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might as well put some Masterseries silver on it so it will never rust again.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd use red oxide rattle can primer since it will match a lot better. Do it a little at a time until you get it ALL ready for a full coat of good primer. If it takes a year to get it painted yourself, you're still saving a boatload of money and you'll be able to repair/paint yourself! Use a liquid Rust Killer on all bare metal before primer!
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BellePlaine
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm now using a DA sander and the work is going well. I also found a neighbor with a pretty good quality paint gun and a compressor that he'll allow me to borrow. And he told me about Valspar Tractor paints from Tractor Supply Co. I think I might go this route. The paints seem to be of high quality and I really just want to preserve the body and have it decent looking but it doesn't have to be a show car. After all I'm doing it myself.

Regarding the Red Oxide primer; Do I need to use self-etching primer on the small bits of bare metal before I use the Red Oxide primer? I ordered a rattle can of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator to spray on the inside of the doors. Should I use that also on the bare metal bits that I've sanded or is there no need?

Also, as long as I sand it up a bit can I simply apply sandable primer over the good existing paint? Does it HAVE to be all bare metal? What is the finest grit sand paper I can use (on existing paint) if this is allowable?
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BellePlaine
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, one more thing I wanted to mention. I saw on You Tube the dry ice dent removal trick. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong, but it's not really working for me. I guess the VW metal is thicker then autobody metals on cars today? I don't know. I guess I should pick up that Beginners Dent Repair Kit from O'Reily. It's a set of 3 dollies and 3 hammers.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't have to take the good paint down to bare metal! The Red Oxide would just cover your bare metal/bodywork one "fender" at a time. When you have every dent/rust/chip/scratch/flaw sanded out with 320 grit you'll be ready to take the windows/lights out for the good/primer/paint!
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birddog1148
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used Valspar tractor paint before, here is the last project, painted in my driveway. Hope to do the Baja next weekend. New Holland yellow is the color.
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Veedub1968
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BellePlaine wrote:
Oh, one more thing I wanted to mention. I saw on You Tube the dry ice dent removal trick. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong, but it's not really working for me. I guess the VW metal is thicker then autobody metals on cars today? I don't know. I guess I should pick up that Beginners Dent Repair Kit from O'Reily. It's a set of 3 dollies and 3 hammers.


Don't know if it's just me but I think the metal used is a lot thinner than Volkswagens domestic counterparts. I spent 5 hours today trying to get a dent out of the door Evil or Very Mad , after the first 3 hours of use with body tools we resulted to oxy/acetylene metal shrinking and still had nothing but problems. Dents/warps are all fixed now, but if I were you, find a friend who is knowledgeable on body work to come walk you through it. Just my thoughts.
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BellePlaine
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's an update of my progress over the weekend and through last night. I borrowed my neighbor's compressor and paint gun, bought some primer and paint. I went with good quality auto body supply shop paint even though I also bought tractor stuff. (I didn't use it because I got the wrong kind and it could be used with a spray gun.)

Anyway, after hours and hours of sanding and prepping and cleaning I'm done with the painting part of the process. I have some drips that I will need to wet sand. I guess I'll do that next weekend. Otherwise I pushed the bus into the garage to sit and dry/cure. I couldn't paint it in the garage because the space it too small and we've had really nice weather here in MN for the past week or so. 80's and low wind and no rain.

I pounded out the dents the best I could. I still have some hail damage dents that I couldn't fix. Perhaps I'll take it in at a later date. But for now, my goal of sanding off the rust and preserving the vehicle has been accomplished. Yes! Very Happy The color is Ambulance Orange! What do you think?

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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks good! Ready for Winter NOW! Very Happy
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Eren
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks really nice. Also I like the color.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how has the paint held up all these years? did you do enough prep to keep the rust at bay?

(noticed your bus in the beer thread.)
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