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What did you do to your Bug Today?
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BrookShadow_RC
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last Saturday, started cutting out the rusty luggage shelf:

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Hopefully, by this coming Thursday, the new piece will be welded in and painted with POR-15. Then the motor goes back in!
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19super73
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started rebuilding the front end. I managed to get the bushings replaced, tie rod ends, ball joints and steering dampner. Next week or the week after comes the strut inserts, strut bearings, idler arm bushing, steering linkage with new boots and the steering box and while I am busy pulling the gas tank, new fuel hose.
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73bugsedan
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

started sanding my dash to paint body color after removing the dash pad
and retuned carb to run propperly also fixed emergency brake had to re adjust brakes as well
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fred69vert
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tore down the engine out of the 74 SuperHerbie, cleaned everything up and am getting ready (almost) to rebuild it.

Went to my local bugshop and purchased the following for the engine;

87mm cylinders and pistons, pushrod tubes, main, rod and cam bearings, crankshaft gear puller, gasket set, rear main seal, assembly grease, oil screen, extra sump gasket set, and a few other items.

I'm going to the Bug-Out in Manassas, VA this Sunday, looking for a set of Kadrons or Solexes to put duals on this engine.

Anyone know a trick to getting the crankshaft gear to let go? I'm using the puller with heat applied and the gear is being really stubborn. I saw in the Bug Me Video about heating the gear (on a hot plate) before installing it, but I can't get it off!!!!!
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DMC-12
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I began prepping my car for painting. I scrounged a spare door to replace my rust one and I've been painting all of my trim a satin black for my "love bug" paint scheme.
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kspageddie
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have removed the rear drums (the right tool made all the difference in getting the axle nuts off), will begin replacing shoes, springs and wheel cylinders tonite.

Next up, putting in my new motor...yippie!
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vugbug68
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BrookShadow_RC wrote:
Last Saturday, started cutting out the rusty luggage shelf:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Hopefully, by this coming Thursday, the new piece will be welded in and painted with POR-15. Then the motor goes back in!


Nice! i had to do this to my bug too. I think it turned out great

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BrockGrimes
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I raised the front of my super about 1.5".
The adjust-a-strut was set on the very bottom notch by the PO and hit everything in the road.
It was a hell of a job until I picked up an O2 sensor socket from autozone.
This allowed me to hold the strut with an allen wrench and turn the nut to assemble the front end.

I still have a raked out look and it rides great, the front end doesn't push when I go into a turn hard it's nice. But geez what a PITA!

Get the right tools for the job if you ever have to do it. Cool
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mclumber1
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I installed my new wiring harness. It took longer than I anticipated, mostly because I've never done anything this complex (at least for me!) electrical wise. I'll make it all look pretty tomorrow or the next day.
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Raggamuffin
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Painted my steering wheel, 3 light coats of appliance epoxy black.
(Note the high-tech Swiffer paint stand...)

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Hophead
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fred69vert wrote:
Tore down the engine out of the 74 SuperHerbie, cleaned everything up and am getting ready (almost) to rebuild it.

Went to my local bugshop and purchased the following for the engine;

87mm cylinders and pistons, pushrod tubes, main, rod and cam bearings, crankshaft gear puller, gasket set, rear main seal, assembly grease, oil screen, extra sump gasket set, and a few other items.

I'm going to the Bug-Out in Manassas, VA this Sunday, looking for a set of Kadrons or Solexes to put duals on this engine.

Anyone know a trick to getting the crankshaft gear to let go? I'm using the puller with heat applied and the gear is being really stubborn. I saw in the Bug Me Video about heating the gear (on a hot plate) before installing it, but I can't get it off!!!!!


My gear set was tough to get off last week. If you have either a brass hammer or rubber mallet I found it helpful to give the gear set a rap or to to relieve stress while under load of your puller. be suer to lube the puller as well . Mine it turns out had a nick on the backside of the cam gear right at the groove for the keyway. what ever you tap it with it has to be softer than what you are hitting. A chunk of wood or it with a regular hammer would work. A penetrating lube like PB BLASTER is helpful. Take a good look once you get it off. There could be grit, nicks or scratches that might be complicating things. Clean up anything you might find.

On other thing is to back off the puller and check the center threaded unit. In my case the crank was a chromolly and the puller being of softer material was galling at the tip where it meets the center of the pulley bolt hole. It was creating alot of friction and stress. I cleand up the taper with a file and resumed pulling the gear set off but now generously lubing the pulley hole.

Good Luck....

Oh and heating up the gear while it is installed won' t help. It only helps when putting it on because the crank is not hot.

you did remember to remove the circlip first... right?
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73bugsedan
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

finished sanding my dash installed new shifter bushing fixed rear windows
started stereo install
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(o\ | /o) 1973 bug sedan blue new interior, paint, wheels, 2 inch wider fenders, engine, rebuilt trans, purchased for 3000 seller gave me 10000 dollers worth of receipts from the last 2 years

i love my bug
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fred69vert
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hophead wrote:
fred69vert wrote:
Tore down the engine out of the 74 SuperHerbie, cleaned everything up and am getting ready (almost) to rebuild it.

Went to my local bugshop and purchased the following for the engine;

87mm cylinders and pistons, pushrod tubes, main, rod and cam bearings, crankshaft gear puller, gasket set, rear main seal, assembly grease, oil screen, extra sump gasket set, and a few other items.

I'm going to the Bug-Out in Manassas, VA this Sunday, looking for a set of Kadrons or Solexes to put duals on this engine.

Anyone know a trick to getting the crankshaft gear to let go? I'm using the puller with heat applied and the gear is being really stubborn. I saw in the Bug Me Video about heating the gear (on a hot plate) before installing it, but I can't get it off!!!!!


My gear set was tough to get off last week. If you have either a brass hammer or rubber mallet I found it helpful to give the gear set a rap or to to relieve stress while under load of your puller. be suer to lube the puller as well . Mine it turns out had a nick on the backside of the cam gear right at the groove for the keyway. what ever you tap it with it has to be softer than what you are hitting. A chunk of wood or it with a regular hammer would work. A penetrating lube like PB BLASTER is helpful. Take a good look once you get it off. There could be grit, nicks or scratches that might be complicating things. Clean up anything you might find.

On other thing is to back off the puller and check the center threaded unit. In my case the crank was a chromolly and the puller being of softer material was galling at the tip where it meets the center of the pulley bolt hole. It was creating alot of friction and stress. I cleand up the taper with a file and resumed pulling the gear set off but now generously lubing the pulley hole.

Good Luck....

Oh and heating up the gear while it is installed won' t help. It only helps when putting it on because the crank is not hot.

you did remember to remove the circlip first... right?


I got the gear off, had to finish the job with a brass punch and a ball peen hammer. Impact wrench destroyed my new gear puller. Damn EMPI tools!!! Doesn't look like I damaged anything, so I'm ready for reassembly.

I have a TV/DVD in my shop, been reading "How to Rebuild" and "Idiot" books (I have the Bentley, too) and watching the "Bug Me" video as I do this, to make sure I don't bugger something up. I guess that when I get this engine in my 69 and start the rebuild of my 1500 single port, I'll just take the crank to my local bug shop and have them remove the gears.
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73bugsedan
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

new shift rod bushings shifts so much better
started fixing fresh air box stuff and gathering pipes for heater and fresh air box. started filling in dash pad holes =)
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i love my bug
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jmsmilin
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW12Step wrote:
Painted my steering wheel, 3 light coats of appliance epoxy black.
(Note the high-tech Swiffer paint stand...)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
cool let us know how it holds up over time
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DCMR2
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the left inner CV boot. Pretty easy but messy. Did a valve adjustment. All but one were too tight. Set the static timing. I'm a little confused about the timing though. I have a fuel injected block from '75 on with a carb. The crank pulley has the 0,7.5,10 notches like the '70. Should I set the timing according to the '70 specs, 0° TDC or '75 specs 5° ATDC?
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Joker69
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sunday - Drove for 4 hours to pick up a free pair of high back seats to use while I rebuild my lowbacks.

Monday - Dropped off the bug for routine oil change/valve adjustment.

Tuesday - Wire brushed all the rust and crap off the seats rails, cleaned and vacuumed them, and applied copius amounts of redneck fabulous duct tape to the rips and tears on the side.

Wednesday - Picked up the bug from the shop and installed the temporary seats after work.

Hope to pick up some inexpensive seat covers on Friday. Smile
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fred69vert
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got my crankshaft built and put it and the camshaft in the case. I need to get some Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket today so that I can seal up the case, then it's on to the pistons and cylinders (87mm).

Going to the Bug-Out in Manassas, VA this Sunday, looking for a set of Solex 35PDSIT's or Weber 34ICT's.
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deluxekombi67
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW12Step wrote:
Painted my steering wheel, 3 light coats of appliance epoxy black.
(Note the high-tech Swiffer paint stand...)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Picture of the paint you used would be great. it looks great from the picture you took. Is it really shiney?
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Raggamuffin
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

deluxekombi67 wrote:
VW12Step wrote:
Painted my steering wheel, 3 light coats of appliance epoxy black.
(Note the high-tech Swiffer paint stand...)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Picture of the paint you used would be great. it looks great from the picture you took. Is it really shiney?


It is really shiney. I used regular appliance epoxy black I picked up at Lowes. I was thinking of hitting it with extra fine steel wool, but I figure that daily use will take a bit of the shine off in time.

I just sprayed it directly on the wheel, and JB Weld I filled the cracks and chips with...no primer as per the can.
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