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Westy Table vertical slider modification (How-to)
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Povi
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 7:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Westy Table vertical slider modification (How-to) Reply with quote

This worked for me:

2' of 3/4" black iron pipe. Cut the threads off of one end of the 3/4" iron pipe if you want to do the bushing and pin to allow the table to pivot in the raised position. I put the orange cap back on, it takes up the slop. If you just want the extension, no cutting needed. Plug and play

The bushing is a grey pvc conduit reducer 1-1/4" to 1" The bushing had to be enlarged with a forstner bit, I don't recall the size. Well clamped and on a drill press. A spade bit I wouldn't try. Cleaned it up on a spindle sander. I forgot to take a photo of the bushing prior to enlarging and belt sanding

I used the front table and leg. All doors open, closet too. Swings over the closed kitchenette no trouble.

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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2020 11:51 am    Post subject: Re: Westy Table vertical slider modification (How-to) Reply with quote

I was researching the adjustable table height mod and saw this about the magnets. I too tried small magnets but they didn't hold 100% of the time so I added a much bigger magnet, screwed into the c-pillar with a metal strip on the table. This has held 100% of the time for about a year.

Neodymium magnet...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013L36SXA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screwed to the c-pillar
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Metal strap on the table
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Sodo wrote:
Sept 2016, the vertical table slider mod has been absolutely trouble-free, and a great mod. Great to have the table same height as the stove, plus access to the bins. Would be nice to have side access to the cabinet though since the high table now blocks the cabinet door. See this thread for other ways to access the rear cabinet.

========= BELOW refers to the MAGNET enhancement from pg 1 ==========

but NOTE: I have a problem with theMAGNET part of this mod. Kids riding in the back used the table as an armrest, constantly jostling it, loosening the thumbwheel; thus it jostles even more. Over time, the magnets protruding made ugly scars on the "wall". See this mod to address the table swivel/handwheel. I have not tried it. I suspect this allows you to keep the handwheel tighter and still be able to swivel it. Whereas with no plastic, you have to keep the handwheel loose to the point where it "loosens itself". I have not tested the plastic friction mod.

Also the height setting that aligns the magnets with the necessary "iron strip" is above the bottom of the curtains, which prevent the magnets from getting to their iron target. You have to deal with with the curtain length (or cut it).

The magnets could work well but needs more developement. I had hoped it would be one of those "invisible" enhancements, but it needs additional iron targets (that protect the westy wall). The targets need some float so all four magnets contact the targets in concert. Targets could be unsightly, but a magnetic stainless might work.

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SyncroHead
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 6:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Westy Table vertical slider modification (How-to) Reply with quote

This is such an awesome modification and my hat's off to Sodo for doing this and starting this topic!

I just did mine. In stock I had both 3/4" Sch-40 PCV, 1" EMT conduit, which others have shown both work. I also had some aluminum tubing the same OD as the steel conduit and decided to use that. At Lowes bought a plastic fitting to fit between the bottom of the aluminum tube and the original plastic fitting at the floor. Fitting is a 3/4" PVC threaded nipple 1-3/8" long. Spent about 3 minutes filing the threads down partway to make a great press-fit into the aluminum tube. Then I turned what should have been another 5 minutes filing the other end into 30 minutes. I filed until I thought it was about right and found it was still too big. Repeat about 6 times until sufficiently filed! Very Happy I was just a bit too conservative about how much should some off and should have been more aggressive. I added a piece of electrical tape on the clamp plate that goes between the clamping screw and the leg tube, hoping to protect the tube's paint. Works GREAT!

Cost $0.52. No, wait. With tax $0.57! (Not including the aluminum tube I had in stock.) Laughing

New paint on the leg tube is drying now. I found a grey color I like. Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover in a color called Satin Stone Grey. Not a close match for the original leg color, but I like it better.

Thanks again Sodo and others who lead the way on this mod!

Regards,
Jim Davis
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 12:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Westy Table vertical slider modification (How-to) Reply with quote

IIRC, I posted this mod some years ago but it has held up well for the last 10+ years. At 6' 2", # 2 height position leaves room under table for my feet when lounging, gives better access to cubbies and provides a fairly long work bench with stove top down. I leave the table at this height. Height # 3 is great for food prep or for some tasks requiring better light. The table "swings" more easily. 82westyrabbit posted a great (IMO) fix for keeping the table secure during normal use.

The bathtub drain piece was shimmed to fit the hole and in recent times, I noted that it'd turned a little in the hole. Next time I'll use something stronger than silicone sealant as adhesive.

I recall adjusting the EMT conduit OD with emery cloth but I inserted a length of that into ABS. The table leg fits fairly tight to that so it may "shudder" a bit when raise/lowered but it works. I did not lube those metal to metal parts. The new pipe is secured to cabinet with pipe strap.

Neil.

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Height #2

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mandolismo wrote:
Hey, I liked your idea and certainly wanted my table to behave that way. But I'm a lazy bastard.
So I got some conduit that fit OVER the table leg, placed it OVER the plastic gizmo at the bottom, and cut it EXACTLY the right length to fit between the lower and upper brackets. Then I slid the leg of the table in and I was done. Not counting purchasing the conduit, project time was 15 minutes, mostly because I filed the ends after cutting to smooth them off, for no good reason.
Works great, no issues one year on, and I use it a lot.
Necessity is the mother of invention; laziness is the mother of cleverness.

MsTaboo wrote:
Here's a pic of our solution, pretty much the same as everyones. Just a piece of ABS plastic and a couple of fittings. A little plastic filing in the corners but no metal work.
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Yep, easy pleasey.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 8:09 am    Post subject: Re: Westy Table vertical slider modification (How-to) Reply with quote

Hey, I liked your idea and certainly wanted my table to behave that way. But I'm a lazy bastard.

So I got some conduit that fit OVER the table leg, placed it OVER the plastic gizmo at the bottom, and cut it EXACTLY the right length to fit between the lower and upper brackets. Then I slid the leg of the table in and I was done. Not counting purchasing the conduit, project time was 15 minutes, mostly because I filed the ends after cutting to smooth them off, for no good reason.

Works great, no issues one year on, and I use it a lot.

Necessity is the mother of invention; laziness is the mother of cleverness.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 3:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Westy Table vertical slider modification (How-to) Reply with quote

Sodo wrote:
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******* Easy access to the cabinets!!! *******

Hello folks,

I saw a similar modification somewhere on the web and decided to copy it. You can set your table at any height with the knob - which is great when you want to get into the storage cabinets.

The modification is to add a pipe INSIDE the bent table support pipe. This holds everything in line when you lift the table.

Actually you CAN raise the table without a pipe inside, but when you try to put the table back down it will punch a hole in your Wheaties box, and then it's pretty hard to align it onto the little plastic bushing at the bottom.

I can't claim it's the best thing I ever did for my Westy
...... because JackBombay's air lift kit ( http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=578890 ) still has that status in our van. But its a good one, another modification that I wish I had ten years ago!!!

Stuff you need:

1) one inch electrical conduit (about 22 3/4"). 10 feet costs about $11.00 at a hardware store.
2) A benchtop Vise
3) Hacksaw
4) quarter-round file, (fine tooth)
5) hammer and punch
6) 10mm wrench


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Pull out the support pipe and remove the lower bracket. This lower bracket will be modified. You will remove the plastic bushing and put a 22+ inch pipe in its place.

You will have to remove the top bracket too (when you install your 'slider').



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"One INCH Electrical conduit" actually neasures about 1.165" outside diameter, which is PERFECT to insert into the table support. Almost no slop and it doesn't bind at all ----just perfect!. Don't bother measuring diameters, just bring your table support pipe into the store and check that the conduit slides into it before you buy. There can be variations in the pipe used to mfr Westies, and also variations in the OD of electrical conduit. A 10 foot section was only $10.65 at Home Depot.

Insert the conduit until it touches the 'bend' in the table support. Mark it and cut off. It's better to cut it a half inch long (about 22 3/4") then trim it after you have verified that it is 1/4" higher than the upper bracket.


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Remove the white plastic bushing. The hole in the bracket must be opened up from 1.140" to the diameter of the conduit: 1.162". This is only .022" of enlargement (= 1/2 mm) , very easy to do.


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It only took this quarter-round file 2 1/2 minutes. The ideal condition that you want is the bracket fitting TIGHT around the pipe. So file slowly and keep checking the pipe. For this reason I recommend leaving the Dremel in the drawer and go buy a "fine 1/4 round" file. Yes, I understand this is difficult for you modern fellas to go all old-school manual but trust me it's better this way.

Also file the corner off the pipe edge so you can jam it into the hole tightly.


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Nice tight fit huh?
Cut a bunch of 'tabs' with a hacksaw. This hacksaw blade is a 24T (24 teeth per inch) It would have
been MUCH easier to make cuts in this thinwall pipe with a fine toothed blade (32T).


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Bend the tabs over with a punch. After the first one, put the table support pipe (the heavy bent pipe that supports your westy table) in the vise, and slide it into the table support pipe which will help to keep everything all straight. Don't bend them down flat, stop about 10-20 degrees short. When they are all bent outward most of the way, then Hammer them all flat against the bracket, (....which is backed up by the heavy table-support pipe.)


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Ready to Install. This may be kind of ugly, but it's NOT going to be visible because it's the underside of the lower bracket.

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Put the upper bracket onto the pipe, and then install the new lower bracket with pipe slider. Drop the table-support in.

Notice the internal slider extends about 1/4" above the top bracket for easier alignment when you drop the table support in from the top. The slider fits perfect, with almost no slop. Consequently the table is secure and slop-free at any height even almost touching the light.


Just finished this mod as per Sodo's instructions above. I looked at the other slightly faster mods over the last few pages and ultimately decided upon the bomb proof metal pipe route. I don't think the whole thing took more then 30 min after supplies procured, tools warmed and beer cooled (...and as long as you don't count the 30+ hours pursuing the Samba for the "perfect" solution for the lame table mount syndrome Rolling Eyes )

And bomb proof it is! Table to any orientation and height like it was meant to be. I added the 1-3/4" x 1-3/8 ID nylon bushing to the top hole to round the job out nicely. Thanks Sodo for the great instructions!


Now to the next mod.....propex beware! ("...wait, what's that puddle under the engine?!?!?" d'oh! )
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 7:35 am    Post subject: Re: Westy Table vertical slider modification (How-to) Reply with quote

Sept 2016, the vertical table slider mod has been absolutely trouble-free, and a great mod. Great to have the table same height as the stove, plus access to the bins. Would be nice to have side access to the cabinet though since the high table now blocks the cabinet door. See this thread for other ways to access the rear cabinet.

========= BELOW refers to the MAGNET enhancement from pg 1 ==========

but NOTE: I have a problem with theMAGNET part of this mod. Kids riding in the back used the table as an armrest, constantly jostling it, loosening the thumbwheel; thus it jostles even more. Over time, the magnets protruding made ugly scars on the "wall". See this mod to address the table swivel/handwheel. I have not tried it. I suspect this allows you to keep the handwheel tighter and still be able to swivel it. Whereas with no plastic, you have to keep the handwheel loose to the point where it "loosens itself". I have not tested the plastic friction mod.

Also the height setting that aligns the magnets with the necessary "iron strip" is above the bottom of the curtains, which prevent the magnets from getting to their iron target. You have to deal with with the curtain length (or cut it).

The magnets could work well but needs more developement. I had hoped it would be one of those "invisible" enhancements, but it needs additional iron targets (that protect the westy wall). The targets need some float so all four magnets contact the targets in concert. Targets could be unsightly, but a magnetic stainless might work.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

j_dirge wrote:
Cool. Simple fix.


Now.. if you want to trick it out.
Mount a little strut (like the type that lifts the rear hatch) inside the tube and it will lift by itself!


I did the mod on the riser...Ok, I'm gonna trick it out now with one of my left over hatch struts..thanks for the mod
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1973 Super Beetle (crashed..walked away without a scratch)
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I figured I may as well throw my two cents into the mix, I did this last weekend and it has made a huge improvement!

Very easy and very very worthwhile. Would have liked to have done it a few weeks ago before four of us and a 90lb dog drove 10 hours to Fernie for the week.

I have an '82, and it does not have the plastic coupler on the bottom, it's actually a flanged press fit. I had to use a hack saw and then bend the flange in to get it out. I then cut about 1/2" off the bottom of the table leg due to the flange being welded inside the bottom, so I couldn't fit the galvanized pipe in.

I made up for that 1/2" using a mountain bike headset spacer.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 6:55 pm    Post subject: My own variant on this little job Reply with quote

I found a little bag of goodies today, and one of the treasures was the bushing for the rear table. But then I saw this thread and realized there was no point in replacing that thing. Also some curtain hooks and eyes and a few other odds and ends I'm not sure of. No water filler key, alas…

What I did was extend the outer collar from the base up to the locking screw. I used the parts pictured (mostly: had to get a larger size PVC pipe). That's a little jam nut type fitting from your electrical section at the hardware store, a 3/4 to 1 1/2 adapter and the aforementioned wrong size pipe. All in, USD3.80 so far.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Put the adapter through the base plate and screw the nut good and tight, careful not to crossthread it. Cut off the excess so you have something like this.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Cut your pipe to length (I went with about 18 inches). File or scrape the inside of the pipe to accommodate the adapter, you won't need to remove much material. Press it on and if it goes, jam it all the way on. Mount the bottom plate in the cabinet, and you're done.

All in, about $5 (the right pipe was a buck more) in parts, and a half hour of work. I had additional mishaps, not mentioned, but still it went together quickly and is completely reversible.

Now the table is level, stays where it's put, and can be raised quite a bit higher than before. I feel so much better about it, I might paint that support leg, since I'm likely to see more of it now.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Indytriple, I did your mod today and it was so easy thanks to your clever solution. Also, I like the fact that it's reversible. Best, gb
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, its been a couple years - how have the plastic solutions weathered as opposed to the metal solutions if anybody is still paying attention to this thread?

Seems like the plastic sleeve would be potentially more quiet.

-cc-
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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

indytriple wrote:
From the "Beating A Dead Horse Department"...

I wanted to see if I could find a way to do the table mod easily, inexpensively and leave behind a trail of part descriptions and pictures so that someone else here on The Samba could follow suit. I like all of the other table mods, but many folks are doing it with stuff they've found around the garage and the exact measurements and details are a bit fuzzy. I also wanted a minimum of cutting and filing and NO modifying of the original parts. I originally was going with a variation of Sodo's method, but for some reason NONE of the 1" conduit would fit inside my table leg.

I went to Lowe's and stared at pipes and fittings until I was dizzy so you won't have to. I am convinced that this is about the easiest and cheapest way to go about this project and still get a good, solid result.

Lowe's Shopping List

-3/4" PVC Box Adaptor/Enclosure, Grey (in the Electrical Section near the conduit) $0.45
-3/4" Plastic Insert Coupler, Barbed, Grey (in the Plumbing Section near the hose clamps) $0.37
-3/4" x 30" Galvanized Pipe with Threaded Ends (in the Plumbing section).

Total Cost w/Tax: $10.82

Tools needed:
-10mm wrench or socket to remove the table mounts
-Tape measure to measure the galvanized pipe (cut to 22")
-Hacksaw and vise to cut the galvanized pipe
-File to take off rough edges of the cut galvanized pipe
-Hammer to tap plastic coupler into the galvanized pipe

Photos and Details Here:
http://indytriple.smugmug.com/Cars/Westy-Table-Mod-Project/13027247_zkeYv#943292949_tN4be

Enjoy! This is a great van upgrade.


Thank You!!!!!!

We're new Vanagon owners and just did this mod.....
My bottom bracket differed from the one pictured, but the disk sander took care of the problem......
Smile
We look forward to spending more time over here....

Chuck
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect, thanks! That's what I was hoping and thought, thanks! Smile Mine stayed up fine, it was just a serious pain to get it up and/or down and wobbled around and got stuck. Then, my pretty new grommet would move around and I was afraid it would break. I couldn't find one in Canada, so had to go to a special store in an unusual location to get it. At the store Kamz suggested in her blog! Yeah and thanks!
kamzcab86 wrote:
tam_shops wrote:
Am I understanding correctly, there are TWO reasons for this mod. 1) to keep the table where you put it and 2) to help it slide in/out easily?


Yes. After the mod, you can lift the table to any height and lock it in place. It also makes putting it back down to its normal stow position easier because it stops the table leg from squirming all over the cabinet.

tam_shops wrote:
What stock hold down? Wondering if my 87 is missing it or I just don't know what it is. I've yet to notice a real problem with it, I lock down the knob and with the car seats there, I've yet to notice it move.


It's simply the knob that you turn. For some folks, apparently, the knob doesn't do a good enough job so they add supplemental latching mechanisms.


How far up did you leave the poll above the cabinet? If I can't find my old poll--the screw end fits snug in the original grove that's already there, I'll buy a new broom handle next time I'm at the Dollar store...Then cut it so it's longer than my plunger handle. I might also need that plunger handle, but wanted to try it and see if it worked. LOL
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tam_shops wrote:
Am I understanding correctly, there are TWO reasons for this mod. 1) to keep the table where you put it and 2) to help it slide in/out easily?


Yes. After the mod, you can lift the table to any height and lock it in place. It also makes putting it back down to its normal stow position easier because it stops the table leg from squirming all over the cabinet.

tam_shops wrote:
What stock hold down? Wondering if my 87 is missing it or I just don't know what it is. I've yet to notice a real problem with it, I lock down the knob and with the car seats there, I've yet to notice it move.


It's simply the knob that you turn. For some folks, apparently, the knob doesn't do a good enough job so they add supplemental latching mechanisms.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I saved an old broom handle for this fix, but when I finally found the time to do it, couldn't find it. So, I used a toilet plunger handle. It's not quite long enough, but has decreased my table wobble and will work for now. Am I understanding correctly, there are TWO reasons for this mod. 1) to keep the table where you put it and 2) to help it slide in/out easily?

How much over hang is there? How far up does the PVC pipe stick above the cabinet? Kind of looks like 1cm (~1/3")?
thenosyt wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



What stock hold down? Wondering if my 87 is missing it or I just don't know what it is. I've yet to notice a real problem with it, I lock down the knob and with the car seats there, I've yet to notice it move.
kamzcab86 wrote:
PDXWesty wrote:
My stock hold down seems to keep the table in place just fine while driving.


Same here.

I do like that grommet idea for the hole... will be going to Ace today to get one. Cool




Those child proof latches come from the BABY section of the store. Walmart has them. Just know there are two kinds. Ones that are there (and in the way all the time) and the ones that pivot and fold out of the way. For my cabinets, I used the pivot ones, we don't really need/use them anyway, but now I've just flipped them out of the way and there are not holes everywhere in my cabinets, just bits of useless plastic...then if I have a friend's 1yo over, I flip them down.[url]

http://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-ProGrade-Position...lock[/url]
indytriple wrote:
plummerdesign wrote:
The elevating table is neat, especially to access the bins below. My fix was not for bin access, but for keeping the table in place when not using it. Simple solution using a child latch...cheap and works like a charm. No more swinging table!
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Been installed now for 18 months and still keeps the table restrained.
Cheers,
Jeffery
.
(Westfalia travel/camping videos at YouTube link below)


Any idea where you bought that thing or what section of the store it's in? I saw that in another post of yours. I've been all through Lowe's and HD, and I can't find anything quite like it.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:38 am    Post subject: My version of this mod Reply with quote

I was inspired from the other post in this thread, if you have access to a lathe and Delrin (Acetal) bar or a friendly Machinist this is pretty simple to do.

I just machined a 16" long bar to fit inside the tube(longer would also work, maybe it works even better but this is what I had on hand at the time) and I turned down the end so it would fit inside the bottom piece on the floor. I also machined a guiding piece with a flange that I pressed into the top of the cabinet (the flange could be smaller, I made it big to cover a chip in the cabinet). Works really well , no wobble with the guide and nice gliding action with the Delrin. Now if only I had some grey Delrin to match the van that would be nice.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a pic of our solution, pretty much the same as everyones. Just a piece of ABS plastic and a couple of fittings. A little plastic filing in the corners but no metal work.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timwhy wrote:
thenosyt wrote:



can the table still lower back to the original height to use when sitting down? and do you also have the option to put it back down over the cabinets?


yes


x2 Definitely YES!
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