1972: Our first Bay Window Bus - "Homey"

[ChrisFred]

Love the dark wood look in the light colored bus! Keep up the great work!!!

[WestyPop]

Wow! Nice cabinet work. Beautiful job.
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Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.
______________________________________
J.R.
68 Westy
(+ others)

[DONGKG]

Thanks buddies! I was really fun adding some cool touches on the bus!
_________________
'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[DONGKG]

About a year ago, while me and my family way on our way home from a camping vacation, the engine of Homey suddenly experienced nasty noise. Thereafter, it stopped and, bang, the engine was damaged beyond recovery. Hence, I called my mechanic and we were towed using our Isuzu Trooper. It was in Tanay, Rizal, and about 3000 feet above see level.

From then on, Homey slept for a while and was covered for a long time. Not to mention, the other bee-dubs project that came along in the interim. Until, recently, I had the chance to give her the attention she truly deserves. But looking for a vw engine case for late bus is problematic now here in the Philippines. But, Sharkey 2's (Type 3 Fasty) engine case is actually for a late bus. I bought it about a couple of years back when I restored Sharkey 2. So the game plan is too get the engine case of Sharkey 2 and use it on Homey so that I can use the hanger of the Type 2 properly. Now I have the time to look for a correct vw engine for Sharkey 2 (Type 3 engine case), with that provision on the right hand front portion of the sump of the type 3 dipstick.

Take a look at that nasty looking connecting rod! It's pretty busted!

The valve seats of the heads had to replaced. That was the opportune time to do it.

This tin deserves a few coats of paint for it to look tidy, to say the least.

Since, the old muffler was already worn out, I got this one to give the bus that old vw bay window bus engine tune that is music my my ears!

Another matter worth given full attention was the gas tank. We removed the same and cleaned it. It was worth it!

This quick dry high gloss acrylic may not be on everyone's book, but I had no time to apply the show winning quality paint. So this one came in handy... for now!

Since I have a few extra vintage Fram by-pass oil filter system left, I had to install that "y" copper connector to accommodate the oil pressure sending unit and the flexible hose leading to the inlet of the Fram oil filter.

Another essential for the Fram oil filter by-pass set up is the outlet plug that is routed through that tiny hole provision located on the base of the alternator stand.

But everything else, that alternator base had to be tapped and drilled to accommodate that copper elbow.

I inspected the canister and the filter look pretty good. It may have been kept for so long, now it will be put to use!

Now this is important, I checked that so so tiny hole where the oil exits from the canister after being filtered. That cork board pin came in handy! Note the pin fits in like a glove and, due to its considerable small size of the pin hole, no needed oil pressure is lost.

Now that everything is installed, the engine runs okay now. That stocker dual carbs that I have been keeping for quite a while now was utilised. I will reposition the copper rule tubing soon and will be positioned underneath the bracket of the Fram canister to be aligned to the fuel inlet of the dual carbs, like the one on the Okrasa Engine. Though balancing and tuning may have been taking much of my time, I finally got it correct. Of course with the help of our manuals that are posted at the samba in PDF format!

Thanks to much to this great forum.


Dong
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'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[wcfvw69]

FYI, be careful with that fuel pump. Those pins like to back out, even when they are peened.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[DONGKG]

[DONGKG]

I added an oil sump which, I hope it will be beneficial in the long run.

The vice grip came in handy in removing the original small stubs.

Checking on the removed oil strainer and other hardwares needed.

The silicon gasket maker was likewise essential during the installation and the surfaces of both the engine sump and that of the aftermarket oil sump
must be double checked for possible uneven surfaces; otherwise, the chances of the oil leaking is likely to happen.

Tightening each and every bolt required patience and the unnecessary force should not be applied.

The washers were replaced too considering that they were already flat like a sheet of paper.

The bolts of the oil strainer should be tightened equally and evenly and one at a time.

After installing the same, I drove test the bus and left it running of a few minutes.It turned out to be positive. The temperature was moderate and after a few days of driving, the oil stayed clean.

Thanks,

Dong
_________________
'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[DONGKG]

COIL PROBLEMS QUESTION

After rebuilding the engine of our bay window, it was so cool and fun to drive. People would always give a smile. However, everytime I drive about an hour and upon turning off the engine, it won't start. The engines would crank normally when turning on the ignition, but the engine would not start. I suspected that the starter was causing the problem. Hence, this weekend I replaced the worn our two bushings of the starter to remedy the problem.

However, I experienced the same problem after driving the bus a couple of hours, it would not start.The engine has to the left for a couple of minutes to cool down before it would start. The next suspect was the coil. Thus, I changed the coil and the same thing happened. Luckily, the coil a replace was with in the bus and I could replace it everytime it would not start. So everything the engine won't start, I would replace the coil and it would run again. Meaning, the coil was getting hotter than normal that was causing the hard starting problems.

Questions:

1. What is the possible cause of the coil getting hotter than normal?
2. Since it is running with dual carbs (although the vacuum tube is still functioning for the advancer), is it essential to replace the distributor with 009 or 010?
3. Would it be possible that the rotor or condenser is causing the coil to get hotter than normal?

I need your help, guys. Thanks in advance,

Dong
_________________
'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[wcfvw69]

What brand/quality of coil are you using? What distributor are you running as well? Are you using points/condenser or electronic? Did this just suddenly start happening? Is anything else in the engine compartment getting hot too like your engine is overheating?
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[DONGKG]

[DONGKG]

I found this old pop top for early westy that I will install on our bay. The front hinges are all worn out and rusted. Hence, the same needs to be repaired. The poptop itself has some portioned that needed to be reenforced by fiberglass. The woods are missing too. This is a cool project.

Getting that curve of the roof before buying the wood.

After sawing the pattern, it was time to place it on the 4x1 wood for getting the pattern correctly transferred to the 4x2 wood before cutting.

With that saw, cutting the wood was a walk in the park.

The finished curved woods. Ready for some clue and installation.

These are the woods to be installed under the poptop.

After fixing it and sanding the excess edges, the curve woods needed to be marked so that it would not be installed to the wrong end.

Epoxy clue was the best way for it to stick tightly.

Applying the mixed clue equally on all surfaces was important. This part was quite messy!

In order to maintain the alignment, a support wood had to be installed temporarily and while the glue was being applied on the sides.

After the woods had been glued, I left it untouched over night so that the clue would cure accordingly.

These hinges looked tired and all rusted. Hence, a considerable fabrications of the rusted and missing parts needed to be done.

Both bases of the hinges had to be fabricated. The dimensions were too essential in the process.

After some fabrications, the hinges had to be welded and be fixed. Two of the rusted hollow tubes were cut off and welded together to save at least one hollow tube.

I had to fabricate one hollow tube to complete the hinges.

The base of the hinges that rests on the roof had to be hammered to get the desired angles before bolting them on the roof.

The base of the hinge had to be placed on the roof every now and then and had it hammered some more until the correct angle was achieved.

After some needed alignments, grinding and installed some bolts, nuts and washers, the hinges were finished. Next is painting.

I place the hinges on the roof and checked whether the alignment was correct.
_________________
'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[DONGKG]

I also fixed the poptop due to the fact that there were portions that had cracks.

These are hardener and paste for the fiberglass.

The fiberglass came in handy.

These cracks had to the sanded and grinded so that the fiberglass would stick properly.

I applied about 3 to 4 layers of fiberglass to achieve the desired strength and reinforcement.

Since this leading edge of the poptop was protruding outward, I had to place this cargo hook before placing the layers of fiberglass so that it would close in a bit. And it did.

The roof rack had to be fixed also due to some cracks and enlarged hopes for the provisions for the hallow tube railings.

This hole was damage and had to be repaired too.
_________________
'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[DONGKG]

Last season I had time to attend to the repair and installation of the pop top.

I applied primer to the roof rack of the pop top.

Of course I applied primer too on the pop top.

Then i applied the off white for the final touch. I had it sanded then applied the clear coat for that glossy look.

I then applied primer and gray color to the front hinges that I fixed and repaired.
_________________
'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[DONGKG]

I also got this aftermarket spare tire mount that I had to do some repairs for it to custom fit the rim of the bay.

I know its not for the bus, but this one is okay for me though...

After removing the VW logo, I placed the tire mounting to get that alignment properly.

Drilling these marks was tough, considering that the alignment should be 100% perfect, but I had to do it. No pain, no gain!

I had to remove the two lower stubs fixed on the tire mounting due to the fact that it had different distances.

For the upper bolts, I used the old studs of the worn out engine case I have been keeping in the garage. It was worth not discarding that old case.

After installing the tire mounting, it appeared pretty perfect for me!

Looking at the spare tire mounted, It looked cool and the camper appeal of HOMEY is apparent.
_________________
'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[DONGKG]

After painting the pop top and the front hinges, it was time for the installation.

After fitting the pop top, I made some markings then installed the front hinges.

After installing the front hinges, I then marked the portions that needed to be opened.

For the rear portion.

Then it was time to grind the three middle ceiling retainers and remove the same.

Removing the ceiling retainer.

I used a hand grinder and slowly removed the portion of the roof that was cut off.

the removed portion of the roof.

View from the outside with the ceiling still unaltered.

The view from the inside sans roof and ceiling.

Then I fabricated this steel tubular to re-enforce the side portion of the opening.

I also installed self-tapping screws to fix the steel tubular to the opened roof portion.

Now it was time to fabricate the rear hinges. This one is the portion of the hinge that is fixed onto the wood re-enforcement of the pop top.

This is the lower portion of the rear hinge.

The finished rear hinges. It was time to install them.

Installing the rear hinges.

The bottom portion of the rear hinge.

view from the inside of one of the two installed rear hinges. It was okay for me. I will paint it soon.

The rear hinges stand firmly and the retainer springs will follow soon!
_________________
'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[DONGKG]

After installing the pop top and opening the roof, it was time to install the bed, But the cot style was too small, I may say. Hence, I copied the continental roof bed used by Westfalia.

After measuring the roof and getting the dimensions of the bed, I then saw the 3/4 ply board.

I then fabricated the self retaining stud to keep the pillow portion in place.

The finished fabricated self retaining lock (female).

The installed one.

The hinges in front of the bed.

Installing the hinges on the bed.

I them fixed the bracket for lock of the pop top and for keeping the bed parallel to the pop top so that one can stand once inside the camper.

For the living room condition.

I also fabricated this stainless steel stopper of the pillow portion of the bed.

Of course, the two rubber stoppers placed in the middle portion of the bed to keep the bed firm while an occupant is sleeping.

With the bed and pillow portion fully flat, it was time to sleep! (Some other time, I guess )

Next will be the canvass covering on all sides.

Note: I also fabricated the two 12-inch long stoppers placed under the bed that are fixed on both sides of the opening of the roof to keep the bed firm and safe while being used. I will post the pictures too soon.


Thanks,

Dong
_________________
'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[Stuartzickefoose]

Nicely done!!
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

[DONGKG]

[notchboy]

Good job Dong! Way to make it work Are you going to make your own tent as well?
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[DONGKG]