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Pbotsonis Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2008 Posts: 506 Location: Parker, Colorado
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:54 pm Post subject: Heater blowing fuse |
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I just got my heater fixed today. It is a 73 gas heater. It works great but it pops the fuse. I am putting the white fuse in it. How do I prevent it from poping the fuse?
Thanks |
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Ferretkona Samba Member

Joined: December 03, 2005 Posts: 1306 Location: Columbia, CA
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:53 pm Post subject: Re: Heater blowing fuse |
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Carman69 wrote: |
,,,,, How do I prevent it from poping the fuse?
Thanks |
Don't use it! _________________ 74 181 Thing
2008 Ford Sport Trac V8 4x4
2008 Ford Escape V6 |
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[email protected] Samba Member

Joined: February 21, 2003 Posts: 878 Location: Clifton Park NY Saratoga County
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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the fuse will blow for the following reasons,
1. There is no heat- there is no fuel coming from the pump. The pump is not working, not clicking.... hit it with a hammer. or clean it. check to make sure fuel is going to the pump from the gas tank
2. There is no heat-The glow plug is dirty, clean it.
3. There is heat
The heater is not cycling on and off, the heat regulator contacts are always making contact, its overheating.
http://veewiki2.webfactional.com/HeaterBN4 |
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[email protected] Samba Member

Joined: February 21, 2003 Posts: 878 Location: Clifton Park NY Saratoga County
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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ps try a red fuse. 16a |
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Pbotsonis Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2008 Posts: 506 Location: Parker, Colorado
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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I just did that. It works great. But it gets hot and then blows normal temtature air. Is that normal? Is it part of the cycling system?
Thanks _________________ Price does not include PayPal fees. Text is the fastest way to reach me |
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[email protected] Samba Member

Joined: February 21, 2003 Posts: 878 Location: Clifton Park NY Saratoga County
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 3:54 am Post subject: |
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Yes, it will cycle hot air then cool, depending on how far you have the temp cable pulled out
all the way out is the hottest,
all the way in coolest
its the cable to the extreme left, do you have an owners manual?
It explains in there how to control the heater |
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MercurialThing Samba Member

Joined: January 12, 2008 Posts: 218 Location: Matthews, NC
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:11 am Post subject: |
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I thought the heater was supposed to have an 8 amp fuse? If so, adding a 16 amp fuse to that circuit is a really bad idea.
I have melted insulation in my wiring harness because the PO added 16 amp fuses to circuits that were blowing the correct 8 amp fuse. He's lucky he didn't end up with a car-B-Q.
IF (like I said I'm not positive) the heater fuse is supposed to be 8 amp, you'll want to find the source of the short and fix it. If it's supposed to be 16 amp, then great, you've found the problem. _________________ ..._____
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[o\|_|_|/o]
.U..........U
Southern Integrity Aircoolers |
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DUNEDRIVER Samba Member

Joined: December 22, 2006 Posts: 124
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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It is supposed to be an 8 amp fuse definatly. I would bet you need to adjust the flame sensor because it is getting too hot and blowing the fuse. |
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Pbotsonis Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2008 Posts: 506 Location: Parker, Colorado
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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It worked great yesterday. Today It won't get hot. Where is the flame sensor? I used a used fuel pump so maybe it was a bad pump. Any other trouble shooting ideas? Yeasterday it got so hot that it burnt your hand when you felt it. Then it wouln't get hot for a while. I still turns but no heat is coming out.
Thanks. _________________ Price does not include PayPal fees. Text is the fastest way to reach me |
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DUNEDRIVER Samba Member

Joined: December 22, 2006 Posts: 124
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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The flame sensor is om the side opposite of the fan, it has several wire connections on top of it. It is a ferrite rod that runs down into the canister and when it get to hot it is what signals your fuel pump to turn on and off. When an overheat condition exist it blows the 8 amp fuse. yuo can loosen the nut that holds this part in the canister and pull it straight out if the canister. It is about 5 inches long and may be difficult to get out. Anyhwo clean it up with some 0000 steel or aluminum wool and put in back in place. the sensor itself is adjustable but I do not have my manual here at work with me to remember how it is set. Anyhow the manual is available here in the forums just do a quick search. Anyhow remove the 16A fuse and put the proper 8A fuse in before you turn your car into a huge fireball. hope this helps. |
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Pbotsonis Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2008 Posts: 506 Location: Parker, Colorado
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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It helps alot and I really appreaciate it. Would the sensor have anything to do with it not getting hot again? I just got back from Advanced autos and I have a 8 amp fuse back in it.
Thanks. _________________ Price does not include PayPal fees. Text is the fastest way to reach me |
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DUNEDRIVER Samba Member

Joined: December 22, 2006 Posts: 124
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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Check out this link it explains the getting too hot and blowing the fuse, This should help you. Also like it says your thermostat may be stuck too.
here is the link.
http://veewiki2.webfactional.com/HeaterBN4 |
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[email protected] Samba Member

Joined: February 21, 2003 Posts: 878 Location: Clifton Park NY Saratoga County
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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the gas heater fuse is a 16 amp fuse, check your owners manual.
this is position 9 on the fuse block.
sounds like your heater is in the always on position, its usually the heat regulator that is siezed in the closed position. |
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DUNEDRIVER Samba Member

Joined: December 22, 2006 Posts: 124
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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Not the fuse in the fuse block, The fuse on the heater itself, it is an 8A White not Red. It is suppose to blow when the heater exceeds 300 degrees. The thermostat should cut fuel at approx 250 degrees and allow the fan to cool the heater, If the thermostat sticks and does not cut the fuel the heater will overheat and the fuse will blow at 300 degrees. You are correct about the fuse in the fuse block it is a red one, but the heater itself is an 8 Amp according to the factory Eberspacher manual I have. Its in German but lucky I was born in Germany and spent most my childhood there. |
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KdFMotors Samba Member
Joined: March 10, 2008 Posts: 4
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 3:42 pm Post subject: Maintenance on a working BN4 |
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Old thread here, I know.
Does anyone know If there are oil holes for oiling the fan motor? Or is it lifetime lubed?
Also, mine is running rich sometimes, judging by exhaust smell. I'm going to change the spark plug, which is sooty and worn under the electrode, but the gap seems too small compared with the new one I have. And check the voltage at the relay to see if the fan is getting 11v.
If anyone's interested, I'll report back. Thanks,
Jim |
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SilverThing  Samba Member

Joined: July 19, 2004 Posts: 833 Location: Everett
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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I don't know about any lube holes on the fan motor. It has been far too long since I have actually looked at it to tell you from memory. I did a quick look through all of the bn4 related materials I have gathered over the years and I didn't find anything that mentioned lubing the motor, but I may have missed something. All I found was a mention of greasing the cam lobes for the contact points.
Make sure the heater is getting a minimum of 11.6 volts at the relay (according to vw and eberspächer).
Running rich could be due to the fuel metering being off. Eberspächer specifies that 13-15cc of fuel to be pumped every 200 strokes of the fuel pump. If it is outside of that range, it will need to be adjusted.
While you're checking that: check the motor speed. Should be 4850-5350 rpm running off of 12 volts. The fuel pump will click 147-162 times a minute if the motor speed is correct.
Spark plug gap should be 0.098in/2.5mm
There are several bn4 repair manuals that have been posted in the technical section that may be of use. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/heater_ac.php
There is also this one: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/f-3_fresh_air_heating_1969.php
Hope this helps! _________________ "I like how everyone likes talking about Zeke's Thing yet he's the only one that's ever seen it." - Katie
"I've seen pictures..." - Jeremy |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 51689
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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Many years ago I lubed the fan motor on my first '73 Thing. I just remember that it was a pain figuring out how to get it apart without screwing something up. If I were to do this job again I think I would drill a hole in the fan to get access and just spray soon lube in. This pic is of the heater fan in my 83 1/2 Vanagon. You can see how I drilled the fan to get access to the bearing.
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KdFMotors Samba Member
Joined: March 10, 2008 Posts: 4
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Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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SilverThing and Wildthings --
Thanks, guys. for these replies.
I will report results. Changing the plug did not help. Voltage is 11.5. Checking the pump output is next.
Good idea drilling that hole. Suppose I will when I get in there. Can't hurt. |
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