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36hp corrosion: is this case savable?
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thom
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 4:36 pm    Post subject: 36hp corrosion: is this case savable? Reply with quote

Is there a way to repair this damage? There's a ton of corrosion around the oil sump mounting area, but the rest of the case is decent.

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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toss it into a fire.
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craigman
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would make a good plant pot for the wife!
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perello
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I am doing an experiment using this

http://www.castolin.com/wCastolin_com/products/coating/Surfacing_Polymers.php?navid=64

I'll try to post pictures of the recovering process, which looks promising. Again this should be taken only as an experiment... Wink
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tstracy39
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blast off the crust with walnut shells and see if there's enough case left over afterwards to use. After it's clean maybe fill in the craters with JB weld. It MIGHT just work.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tstracy39 wrote:
Blast off the crust with walnut shells and see if there's enough case left over afterwards to use. After it's clean maybe fill in the craters with JB weld.


Considering it's a 36HP case, and they no longer "grow on tree's" like the 1600 cases do, use it. I have a similar AK dual relief cased 1776 in my car now, and although it may not have been quite as bad, its been going strong since 95. I've seen many off-road buggy engines with similar corrosion in the sump area that have been patched with JB Weld that are doing fine. Blast, or grind off the worst of it, and have at it with the JB Weld. The long curing stuff is good to 600 degrees. If your case is getting hotter than 600 degrees you'll have other things to worry about other than your JB Weld patch comming off. If the case has bad corrosion in other areas, that may be a different story. If that's the only bad place, use it.
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L378
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what causes this type of corrosion? The original case to my oval (still running in the car) has the same type of corrosion.
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mikemck
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a little bit of this kind of corrosion on my trans.

How can it be arrested and prevented?

Thanks.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
tstracy39 wrote:
Blast off the crust with walnut shells and see if there's enough case left over afterwards to use. After it's clean maybe fill in the craters with JB weld.


Considering it's a 36HP case, and they no longer "grow on tree's" like the 1600 cases do, use it. I have a similar AK dual relief cased 1776 in my car now, and although it may not have been quite as bad, its been going strong since 95. I've seen many off-road buggy engines with similar corrosion in the sump area that have been patched with JB Weld that are doing fine. Blast, or grind off the worst of it, and have at it with the JB Weld. The long curing stuff is good to 600 degrees. If your case is getting hotter than 600 degrees you'll have other things to worry about other than your JB Weld patch comming off. If the case has bad corrosion in other areas, that may be a different story. If that's the only bad place, use it.


They don't seem that hard to find and are actually selling for less ( in some instances) than 40 hp or 1600 cases.

I do wish I had all the complete 36er engines I saw get tossed back in the 80's though Mad Shocked

This will take you to every one in the classifieds at this posting... not telling you to go search... it IS the search ready to go...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?...ton=Search

I have seen corrosion like that from water that got into the engine when it sat for years... the oil floated on the top allowing the case to corrode right there at that spot.

If it has not "encroached" the studs for the drain plate that bad ( looks like it has not) then as stated... Clean it up... JB WELD and if the rest of the case is good then you might get some service out of it. I have seen it done on other cases. You might always have a pesky (er than normal Laughing ) oil leak at the drain plate too...


If your sinking big bucks into all the other new 36er parts then I would opt out for a better case.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tranny cases are a little easier to come by than 36 HP engine cases, but you could do the same thing with the JB weld. If this corrosion is just around the drain plug, and you are not using this trans in a high performance application, it's mainly cosmetic. Performance trans have the possibility to crack stemming from the drain plug area. If you are going to be abusing the trans, I would look for another case. To prevent any further corrosion, about all you can do is paint the case to seal out any corrosion elements from the magnesium.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet wrote:
They don't seem that hard to find....


Where abouts are you located? Considering that all but about a few of the 36 HP classified listings you linked are located on the Westcoast, if you're in Western PA like me, 36HP cases are pretty difficult to find. Thank God for resorces like thesamba were you can get in contact with people that have older hard to find parts, but I can probably locally find you 100+ dual relief 1600 cases for every 1 36 HP case in PA. I do agree that if you ar restoring a 100 point 50's showcar, it would be nice to have a cleaner case.
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 36 HP case like well I don't think that I would use in that condtion.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=631555
I would use one of these above.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
keifernet wrote:
They don't seem that hard to find....


Where abouts are you located? Considering that all but about a few of the 36 HP classified listings you linked are located on the Westcoast, if you're in Western PA like me, 36HP cases are pretty difficult to find. Thank God for resorces like thesamba were you can get in contact with people that have older hard to find parts, but I can probably locally find you 100+ dual relief 1600 cases for every 1 36 HP case in PA. I do agree that if you ar restoring a 100 point 50's showcar, it would be nice to have a cleaner case.


That is what I meant and what I linked too. I mean some cases are 50 bucks... some even say shipped for 100 or 110.00... some are priced higher so either they are exceptional or like so many some don't really need the sale that bad.

I agree they your not going to trip over them local like you will the later cases but they are not "rare" IMHO or that hard to find.

Those prices are as cheap or cheaper than most of the 1600 OG cases listed.

I would of course ask for tons more pics and check the buyer out first.

For example the man that just blatantly post whored his own ad Shocked Razz Laughing has 3 for sale Exclamation
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 30 or 40 good 36hp cases for sale at any one time. Please pm me with any specific questions. I'd sell one, depending on if it's standard or align bored for $200-$350.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
I have 30 or 40 good 36hp cases for sale at any one time. Please pm me with any specific questions. I'd sell one, depending on if it's standard or align bored for $200-$350.


Shocked
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Middle child
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 11:48 am    Post subject: corrossive issues with a transporter trans Reply with quote

Just for the fun of it (?) I may take the suggestion and fix my transmission case...it sat for years on the ground and I'm assuming this could have corroded from the inside out? Water in the unit slowly taking it's toll...until there's a major problem. My engine also shows some pitting issues but it should run as is....fun buying stuff in a yard where stuff has been sitting forever. Atleast 20 years in my case I'm guessing. Somebody on here suggested the longer curing JB Weld is better than JB Qwik?
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the2ndcashboy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In aviation we use dilute chromic acid to neutralize corrosion in magnesium. After its neutralized, you put an epoxy coating on it to seal out moisture. If you just brush off the loose stuff and slap JB on it the corrosion is just going to keep eating the part underneath.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly. Conformal coatings (when applied correctly) do an excellent job of keeping corrosion at bay, especially when the part in question will be exposed to salt spray like cars in the midwest always are. In Naval Aviation, we use poly based paints a lot. Same goes for conversion coatings, to neutralize the corrosion before it gets painted.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=863640

this case looks ok from here, ohio isn't far from pa, depending on where your traveling from.

for the price though, it may be worth a drive.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a case that just has cosmetic corrosion on the outside. Do coatings like POR 15 do ok on magnesium?
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