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Ever see a Creative car craft T4 to T1 tin? (update) FAQ
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Soviet1942
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't post links to a classified ad, but I now have a listing and photos of mine for sale, for whoever is interested.

I've been contacted by a couple of guys, but I had family visiting for the holidays and it took me a few days to get time to pack it, so I lost touch.

Anyway, if anyone wants it, feel free to get in touch.

EDIT 01/13/2010: THE TIN HAS BEEN SOLD - please no more PMs.
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vincesco
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can someone give me an actual website where I can purchase a set of bay type 1 conversion tins?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vincesco wrote:
Can someone give me an actual website where I can purchase a set of bay type 1 conversion tins?

Welcome,
From the top of the google page searching creative car craft.
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More specifically, go here for the page with details on the tin (their page screams 1999):

http://www.creativecarcraft.com/notforbug.htm

To order though, it's best just to call them at 239-283-8989 & 423-939-0289
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vincesco
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks a ton RIOMX
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vincesco
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks a ton RIOMX
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donemoto
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can someone tell me, where in Germany I can get the original 2 piece steel tins. VW # 211 119 515 A ?

My kids are going to Germany in a couple of monthes and I want them to bring me Back a set or two.

How much would a set cost new from dealer?

Would a set be easy to find at at German junkyard, cheap? How much would be a good price used?

Any info would be great. thanx.
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Westy Steve
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reviving an old thread. I'm on the fence about whether to rebuild my Type IV or do a 1745 stroker engine. I was wondering how many miles you guys have logged with this set-up and if you have those figures, is your bus using the tranny that went in the 76-79 or the '75 and earlier tranny?

Thanks,

Steve
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magnus0328
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Westy Steve,

I have a stock 1600dp in my '73 with the Creative Car Craft Tins. I also have the stock '73 tranny. I am not using a mustache bar. She will cruise at about 70mph with no problems. I have no issues of overheating and so far, all is textbook perfect. That 1745 stroker will make your bus scoot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t47jg55-NTM&safe_search=on

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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Westy Steve wrote:
Reviving an old thread. I'm on the fence about whether to rebuild my Type IV or do a 1745 stroker engine. I was wondering how many miles you guys have logged with this set-up and if you have those figures, is your bus using the tranny that went in the 76-79 or the '75 and earlier tranny?

Thanks,

Steve


What's wrong with your Type 4?

By the way, if you do convert to a Type 1, don't listen to anyone that says you don't need a mustache bar. Just because you don't see the damage immediately doesn't mean it's not happening.

Someone jammed a dying Type 1 into my bus and I bought it that way. They had the motor supported by a thick piece of rubber drilled into the muffler. The motor was visibly lower on the left side and had caused stress to a corner of my transmission where it mates to the engine to the point where metal eventually broke off.

VDubTech sold me a mustache bar from a 71, plus some engine mounts and rubber and that corrected the issue.
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magnus0328
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesnt the '73 tranny mount to the frame the same way as a type 1? Therefore, not needing a mustache bar???
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Westy Steve
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

magnus0328 wrote:
Westy Steve,

I have a stock 1600dp in my '73 with the Creative Car Craft Tins. I also have the stock '73 tranny. I am not using a mustache bar. She will cruise at about 70mph with no problems. I have no issues of overheating and so far, all is textbook perfect. That 1745 stroker will make your bus scoot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t47jg55-NTM&safe_search=on

(snip)

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That looks really nice. Are those stock hubcaps? Also, how many miles have you put on it since you converted to the Type I? I'm trying to find hard data on longevity.

Steve
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magnus0328
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I remember correctly it is these: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13%2D10%2D1060

I have driven about 1000 miles since March 2010 with no issues
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Westy Steve wrote:
That looks really nice. Are those stock hubcaps? Also, how many miles have you put on it since you converted to the Type I? I'm trying to find hard data on longevity.

Steve


Sewrig101 was asking the same.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=390068

No one has kept track of their figures, but there are plenty of people who have T1s, converted or otherwise.

You can contact UK members, people like magnus0328 who have converted, or even the couple who drove from Argentina throughout the U.S. with their T1-powered panel van.

In all likelihood, you'll probably find that either motor will be reliable and will need reconditioning at some point, depending on your style of driving.

It really comes down to preference, and what advantages you feel a T1 conversion will produce.
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Sugarbear
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Magnus,
I just got my engine tin today from them! and im super happy with it, they have pre drilled holes for me too. My question is can i put it on without dropping the engine?
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magnus0328
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You MAY be able to if you take off the shroud. But in my case, I had to drill a hole through the area on the body behind the shroud to run the gas cable through. Your case, you may not have to.

See the red circle and arrow:

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Sugarbear
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm forgot about the gas cable... I will know tomorrow for sure though. I hope i can squeeze it in there i don't have a floor jack yet. or axle stands.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys,
Please let me chime in here rather late into this discussion. There are three questions I can help answer.

1) Can the new tin be installed with the engine in place?

I think maybe it could but it would be easier with the engine removed because I had to do some cutting and fitting to get the tin right as well as the sheet metal screw holes to line up Here's a couple pics of an engine outside the bus with the new tin installed

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2) Do you need a mustache bar?

I don't think so. As far as I know the engine I installed into a 1972 is still going strong after 2 years without one. I've never actually heard of anyone seeing a broken tranny mount (ears) or having the engine fall out even though a lot of people caution again not using the rear mount.

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3) What about the throttle cable routing?

I installed the engine and then put a bit of grease on the through tube for the cable. Then I slid the tube through the fan housing until it hit the transmission hanger bracket and left a mark. I pulled the engine and drilled a hole for the cable to then run through. It worked well.

4) Will the starter need to be changed?

I had to get a later year starter which has a longer reach. I just depends on what year bus you have and the bell housing. Here's a pic with the starter removed.

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5) Will I have to cut the input shaft?

Once again, I think it depends on which bell housing you have. I had the 091 bell housing and a type 4 input shaft. I cut about 3/8 inch off or else the input shaft bottoms into the crank shaft which could lead to thrust bearing failure. You can easily measure to see if you have clearance or not. Here's a couple pics.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

after reading this thread, I didn't know this many people wanted this item. I guess it's in high demand?!?! I always thought type-4 engines were awesome and most people swear by them? Very cool, I agree with some other people though, mustache bars are needed, if VW put them in there, then there is a reason why it's there.
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