Water pump failier????????

[meyervw]

Its the condensor. I hope that helps you sleep better tonight

[vanagon john]

Don't really live in Death Valley but cincy does get a little hot. Like I said it was just an idea. I was looking at what it would take to deleat the ac and saw that there was that rad for the ac (what is that things stupid name) and was thinking that it might make a little cooler. Thanks for the input
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85, 1.9 WWW (wolfs, westy, weekender)

[meyervw]

[Wildthings]

[vanagon john]

I was looking at taking out the AC system (it's never worked and I don't really care to get it working) and thought that my rad might get more area when I take out the ac rad (don't really know what it's called). Would this be a quick (easy) fix for my cooling problems. Now this is just an idea so what do you think
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85, 1.9 WWW (wolfs, westy, weekender)

[meyervw]

Found the problem. It turn out to be my 2 month old sender. I tested acording to the book. First I tested the gauge with the 1303 tester. Its good. I turn to the sender. At 33 degree C it is 650 ohms. Its low. So I take the temp up to 60 degree C Now the ohms are 150. Yup that right the sensor is BAD!!!!!!!! Kinda makes me mad that Meyle made a POS sender. I will get the next one from VW. I probibly could get a parts warrenty on it but I don't want to wait. Well there it is.

[ftp2leta]

Pump don't go wrong... they go loose, worn-out, make noise but they still pump. If the pump doesn't leak (leak hole).

So, no noise, no leak and no play = not the pump.

Easy, bad rad or crack head / head gasket.

Ben
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[meyervw]

That what I am thinking. I think I have a bad temp sensor. The engine does feel hot to me but when I but the thermometer on it it is not as hot as I thought. I will test the gauge and sensor tomarrow.

[Wildthings]

Are you sure your engine is actually running hot anymore? If you are maintaining a temperature of 87°C then it is not hot, but at normal temperature. If you look at Dogpilots diagram you will see that the hose from the thermostat is not the outlet, but the inlet from the radiator so it should be significantly cooler than the engine.

Maybe your original problem was the bad cap that was causing you to blow fluid and with a new cap the problem is fixed.

[meyervw]

For the love of christ I am going to pull my hair out!!!!!!!!! I put the new cap on since the old one was junk. Well no difference. Except this time I brought home my Mastercool infrared thermometer. So before the T-stat is 85 degree C. After is 55 degree C. I check the main res and it is only 87 degree C. No place on that motor is it over 89 degree C. Except the cooling pipe from the water pump to the T-stat. Tomarrow I will bring home my voltmeter and check the resistence of the sensor. It is only 3 months or two months opld but it seems it may wrong. This is driving me nuts.

[tencentlife]

Yup, that's the simple test, john. That's just a proof that adding more cooling area will let the system reach its target temp, so therefore cooling area must be inadequate. Sounds like your radiator failed the test. I could have described my own exactly as you did yours: it began all of a sudden late this summer (ironically, right after an engine R&R with a change of coolant), the needle is up about one width, and the heater fan makes the needle drop straight away. So I'm in for a new one, too. Not bad, though, 21 years, 300k miles, several engines (only one changed by necessity), three trannys, and finally the radiator goes.

Dog is right that the construction is questionable, but most all automotive radiators went to aluminum in that same era due to the low cost of construction. The saving grace is that the vanagon radiator is almost three times larger than it really has to be, so it takes awhile of loading it up with sediment before there isn't enough cooling area left. That also means it will be awfully heavy even once it's dried out.

Coincidentally, VanCafe is featuring them right now, with free shipping this month. Think I'll get me one:
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_312_229/radiator.html
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Please don't PM here, I will not reply.

Hmmm, provincial much?:

[Dogpilot]

VW radiators are basically crap, since I had my first Sirocco years ago, the radiator was the weak link. They actually had it in the periodic schedule for replacement. The plus side is they are cheap and easy to replace. It is not impossible to find them in the $150-170 range. If it is over 5 years old, it is on its way down, they age in dog years. Aluminum is a light wonderful material, but it is on the wrong column of the periodic table to not be affected adversely by conductive liquids.

When you pull your old one out, flush it well with fresh water, let it drain a couple of days. Compare its weight to the new one, it will be three to four times heavier. Its not filled with fairy dust, it is precipitating all kinds of interesting stuff from the coolant, some of which comes from your engine.

Bottom line, if you even suspect the radiator, change it, most of the cooling ills start there.
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[meyervw]

[vanagon john]

[meyervw]

Right. I would fill the system with a giant syringe via the bleed screw at the radiator. What I am finding is it is going into the second res since the cap is no good. So not only do I have air in the system but the cap in not letting the system pressure up to keep the temp down. I am sure you know about the pressurekeeping the bioiling point down. Since I cannot build pressure the water pump is not as effective. This makes sense.
I tested the cap and I can easily blow both ways of the nipple fitting. Its done.

[tencentlife]

Oh, yeah, that's no good. Return pressure, meaning blowing into the nipple, you might be able to blow air in because the setting is only about 1 psi. You would feel some resistance, though. But trying to suck air out the nipple, there's no way you could get the valve to open; the setting is 15psi. You can't get anywhere near that with your lungs, mouth, standing on your head, whatever.

Are you sure there's even a valve disc in there? The disc that both valves are part of is removable from the body of the cap once you take out the rubber sealing ring.

Some say that the system would work even with no cap on there, or no working containment valve like you seem to have. I'm not so sure it would, when I think about it. Regardless, containing pressure raises the boil point of the fluid considerably, so that it can work in the temp range the engine will actually operate at, so you do need a working cap on there. Increased pressure provides more working temp boost than the antifreeze does.

Are you finding that even after you've filled the radiator, more air finds its way there after running it awhile? Your last post seems to suggest that that is happening.
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Please don't PM here, I will not reply.

Hmmm, provincial much?:

[meyervw]

How about this one. I filled the radiator again. Took about 2 liters. NOw here is the question. It instantly fills the second res. I have full flow through the cap. This should not be, correct? The cap should only release and a certain temp. If this is the caes then I am not getting pressure in the system and this could be why its hot. Let me know about the cap. I ttok it off and can blow air through it both ways very easy.

[tencentlife]

The radial orientation of the t-stat makes a difference in some cars, but it's not important in this one so long as you have it in there right-side up (I don't think you could get the cover on with it upside-down). None of the German t-stats I buy even has an arrow.

Delivery of heat proves the pump moves fluid; there is circulation in that loop at all times, unaffected by t-stat being open or closed. If you run the heater blower full speed, you should see the temp gauge drop pretty quick, within several seconds there should be visible movement.

You said you proved that yout t-stat opens in hot water. If so, then it will open in the housing. There is always circulation of hot fluid across the expansion element right from the cylinder heads whenever the engine is running and regardless of it or the heater valves being open or closed.

Unless you find blockage in the hoses and piping front-to-rear, I'd say you got a blocked-up radiator. Mine's starting to go, too, and the change in cooling performance can actually be pretty sudden.
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See innovative Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
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Please don't PM here, I will not reply.

Hmmm, provincial much?:

[moosie982]

[meyervw]